Machines & Equipment

1. Machines & Equipment

2. Types of Needles • Universal or general-purpose • Sharp point, for most knitted and woven fabrics • Ballpoint • Knits and stretch fabrics, slightly rounded tip

3. Stretch • Prevent skipped stitches, synthetic suede, elastic knitwear • Leather • Wedge-shaped point, pierces leather, vinyl • Twin • Decorative stitching

4. Needle Sizes • Range from 6 (very delicate • 20 ( for heavy fabrics) • Lower the number the finer the needle • Size 9 or 11 = fine, lightweight fabrics • Size 14 = medium weight • Size 16 = heavier or thick fabrics

5. Thread • Fine thread for lightweight fabrics • Heavier thread for heavier fabrics

6. Changing Needles • 1. Raise the needle to the highest position by turning the hand wheel • 2. Loosen the thumbscrew on the needle clamp. • 3. Remove the old needle, being sure to notice its position. The long groove on the needle should face the side from which you thread the needle.

7. 4. Insert the top of the needle firmly up into the needle clamp. • 5. Tighten the thumbscrew securely.

8. Preparing the Bobbin • Bobbin = holds the bottom thread in the sewing machine • Must be removed from the bobbin case to be wound

9. Winding the Bobbin 1. Loosen the hand-wheel knob to stop movement of the needle. • Insert the end of the thread through a hole in the bobbin. • Wrap the thread securely around the bobbin several times. • Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder. • Hold the end of the thread until the bobbin starts winding.

10. Tips • Make sure bobbin winds evenly • Gently guide it with your finger • Cut thread with scissors and remove bobbin

13. Insert bobbin in the opening in the slide plate • Pull bobbin thread gently to see whether there is slight tension • Tightness of thread

14. Tension Discs • Be sure to check the threading of tension discs • Pull thread gently to double check • Thread should pull with slight resistance

15. Thread Guides • Location of the last thread guide tells you in which direction to thread the needle • If on right, thread right • If on left, thread left • If in front, thread to back

16. Raising Bobbin Thread • Hold the needle thread in your left hand • With your right hand, turn the hand wheel slowly towards you until the needle enters the throat plate • Continue turning until the needle rises and brings up a loop of the bobbin thread. • Pull up the loop to bring the end of the bobbin thread out • Pull both thread ends under the presser foot and to the back

17. Adjusting the Machine • Lockstitch = needle thread intertwines with the bobbin thread • Creates a stitch that doesn’t pull out or unravel when a loop or loose thread is pulled

18. Adjusting Stitch Type • Straight stitch most common • Decorative stitches available

19. Adjusting Stitch Length • Number from 6 – 20 which indicate number of stitches per inch • Stitch length should match fabric type and stitching purpose

20. Regular stitching = choose a medium length stitch for most fabrics (10 – 12 stitches per inch) • For lightweight use a shorter stitch • Machine Basting = longest stitch possible for easy removal • Reinforcement stitching= very short stitches to prevent stretching or pulling in certain areas (15 to 20 stitches per inch)

21. Adjusting Tension • Please don’t touch the tension discs  • Tension is seen in your sample stitches on a double layer of fabric • Adjustments are done by the teacher

22. Adjusting Pressure • Presser foot- holds fabric against the feed dog, which moves the fabric forward • Some machines have pressure regulators, ours do not

27. Using the Sewing Machine • Guidelines on Stitching • 1. before you start to stitch, raise the take-up lever and the needle to the highest position. • 2. place the fabric under the presser foot. Put the bulk of the fabric to the left of the needle.

28. 3. Position the stitching line directly under the needle. • 4. To begin stitching, turn the hand wheel to lower the needle into the fabric. Then lower the presser foot. Gradually apply pressure on the knee or foot control to stitch

29. Stitching Straight • First attempts may not be straight • Learn to guide the fabric with your hands, without pulling or pushing • Use guideline marking on throat plate to help

30. Stitching Problems • Frequently the cause of stitching problems is incorrect threading • Rethread the machine, check the needle and ask the teacher for help

31. Sewing Machine Accessories • Straight-stitch foot – has a narrow opening and is used for sewing straight stitches • Zigzag foot – has a wide opening to allow for sideways needle motion of zigzag and special stitches • Zipper foot- can be adjusted to the right or left side of the needle for stitching close to zipper teeth or cording

32. Buttonhole foot – has markings for measuring buttonhole stitches • Blind-stitch-hem foot – guides the fabric for a blind-stitch hem

33. Sewing Machine Care • Routine care keeps a sewing machine in top working condition • Machines need cleaned before the start of a new project • Get out lint from bobbin case, etc

34. Always unplug the machine before cleaning • Use a soft cloth to remove lint or fuzz • Use a soft brush to clean bobbin and bobbin case • Wipe away old oil with a cloth

35. Oiling • New machines do not need oiling, it is already imbedded • Older machines, read manufacturers directions for oiling and wipe away excess

36. See page 456 figure 4-1

37. Measuring Tools • Tape measure • Flexible tape, recheck if it stretches • Sewing or seama gauge • Measures short lengths, hems or seam width • Yardstick • Transparent rule

38. Pinning Tools • Silk pins • Stainless steel or brass, most used • Ballpoint pin • Rounded point, prevents snags • Ball head pins • Colorful glass or plastic beads, easy to see • T pins • T shaped head

39. Shears Long blades, two handles Scissors Smaller than shears Dressmaker shears Bent handled Sewing scissors Have small round handles and blades of 4 to 6 inches Pinking shears Helps finish a seam edge Embroidery scissors Small only 3 to 4 inches Seam ripper Remove stitches Thread clipper Spring action blades for clipping Rotary cutter round, retractable blade (pizza cutter like) Cutting Tools

40. Marking Tools • Fabric Marking Pen • Disappearing ink, right or wrong sides • Tracing wheel • Special waxed carbon paper • Tailor’s chalk • Small squares/pencils to mark, brushes off • Ordinary thread • Hand sewn stitch

41. Stitching Tools • Needles • Sharp points, variety of ranges • Thimble • Protects finger when hand sewing • Needle threader • Thin metal wire that helps thread needle • Glue stick • Holds fabric together • Basting tape • Narrow, double-faced tape holds fabric together

42. Pressing Equipment • Iron • Wide range of temperatures • Ironing board • Level/sturdy with tight fitting cover • Press cloth • Lightweight cloth to protect certain fabric • Tailor’s ham • Firm, round cushion used to press curved seams • Sleeve board • Long and used to press narrow areas • Seam roll • Long, firm tube cushion to press long and small curved areas

43. Computerized Machines • State of the art – expensive • Push button commands • LCD screens to display stitches • Can draw your own designs • Embroidery items, etc