Garment Defects

2. Southeast University Southeast University Southeast University Southeast University Department Of Textile Engineering Department Of Textile Engineering Department Of Textile Engineering Department Of Textile Engineering I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Banglade I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Banglade I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Banglade sh sh sh I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh prepared by : Mazadul Hasan sheshir prepared by : Mazadul Hasan sheshir

3. Garment Defects Garment Defects Garment defects can be separated into 3 categories: Garment defects can be separated into 3 categories: 1. 1. Fabric defects Fabric defects: : These are defects that are found in the fabric, mostly these These are defects that are found in the fabric, mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines. e.g. running shade, are not caused by the sewing lines. e.g. running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc. yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc. 2. 2. Workmanship and handling defects Workmanship and handling defects: These are defects that are directly caused by production These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include both the cutting and sewing section, this would include both the cutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to section. Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfect workmanship. maintain perfect workmanship. Note Note: Workmanship means all the details such as : Workmanship means all the details such as measurement, outlook, ways of attaching trims, packing etc. measurement, outlook, ways of attaching trims, packing etc. :

4. Garments Defects(Contd.) Garments Defects(Contd.) 3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: : These defects include color, size and placement of trims such These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen print , embroidery as labels, sewing thread, screen print , embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining , button and any kind of designs, zipper, hangtag, lining , button and any kind of trims. trims. Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and Minor defects. Critical, Major and Minor defects. 1.Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be 1.Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious of defects (0%). shipped and are the most serious of defects (0%). 2. Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over 2. Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%) depending on buyers a certain percentage (3%) depending on buyers requirements requirements 3. Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over 3. Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (5%) depending on buyers a certain percentage (5%) depending on buyers requirements requirements 3.

5. Garments Defects (Contd.) Garments Defects (Contd.) Typical Defects: Typical Defects: 1. Fabric defects: 1. Fabric defects: Fabric inspection method. Fabric inspection method. 2.Workmanship defect: 2.Workmanship defect: a) a) Seam Puckering Seam Puckering: refers to the gathering of a seam either just after : refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering causing an unacceptable seam sewing or after laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance. appearance. This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing , improper thread tension , wrong sewing thread during sewing , improper thread tension , wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc. selection , dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc. b) cutting , bundling and numbering . cutting , bundling and numbering . b) Shading Variations within different parts Shading Variations within different parts: : arises due to arises due toimproper improper

6. Garments Defects (Contd.) Garments Defects (Contd.) c) c) Open seam or broken seam Open seam or broken seam: Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread. has not been covered by sewing thread. This happens due to improper handling of the parts of This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments , improper setting and timing between needle garments , improper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook etc. and looper or hook etc. : Portion of the garment that d) d) Broken Stitch Broken Stitch: Non-continuous sewing thread. : Non-continuous sewing thread. It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage. It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage. e) e) Drop stitch/Skipped stitch Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam. It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or seam. It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or machine usage. machine usage. : Irregular stitching along the

7. Garment Defects (Contd.) Garment Defects (Contd.) f) f)Wavy/staggered stitching Wavy/staggered stitching: : Stitches are not straight. It appears due to improper Stitches are not straight. It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces , faulty feed mechanism , needle handling of cut pieces , faulty feed mechanism , needle deflection or wrong needle. deflection or wrong needle. g) g) Uncut/ loose thread Uncut/ loose thread : : Extra thread or loose thread on seam line. It appears due Extra thread or loose thread on seam line. It appears due to improper trimming or finishing. to improper trimming or finishing. h) h) Sizing defects Sizing defects (Difference in measurement of various parts (Difference in measurement of various parts of garments), wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, of garments), wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints , measurement discrepancy- all embroidery and prints , measurement discrepancy- all these problems come from pattern section. these problems come from pattern section.

8. Garments Defect(Contd.) Garments Defect(Contd.) I) I) Poor ironing- Poor ironing- if not sufficient, there might be creases and if not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if ironing is too heavy, crinkles on garment surface and if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment. there might be shining mark on garment. j) j) misaligned buttons and holes misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section. cartons – all these defects come from finishing section. ,unfinished buttonhole, 3. 3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: Unmatched color of thread, button and zipper tape, short Unmatched color of thread, button and zipper tape, short zippers, faulty zippers, wrong labels, improper size of the zippers, faulty zippers, wrong labels, improper size of the labels, printing mistake of labels and cartons, broken poly labels, printing mistake of labels and cartons, broken poly bag , wrong hanger, improper embroideries and prints etc. bag , wrong hanger, improper embroideries and prints etc.