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Industrial attachment of novel hurricane knit garments ltd

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Industrial attachment of novel hurricane knit garments ltd

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  1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd

  2. Industrial Attachment Course is an academic function of the Southeast University. Like all other years our teacher Syed Fakrul Hassan, Chairmen of Department of Textile-Engineering, Gave us an opportunity to choose preferable mills for Industrial Attachment Course. We, the Four student of 5thbatch choose the Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. joyfully with the supervising teacher Dr.Md. Abul Kalam Azad. During the attachment with The Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd we worked in all the departments related with the Garments Manufacturing Technology & Knitting. We not only gave priority to garments manufacturing but also worked sincerely in the knitting, dyeing, and Maintenance and Marketing section. We learned about quality control section, finished fabric Inspection section, warehouse, store &Inventory &Finishing. We owe a particular debt of gratitude to Md.Emrul Khan, Manager(HRD),Md.Mofazzal Hosan,GM (Production & Head Of The Factory) MD.Masud Rana,Manager,(Marketing &merchandising Dpt.),Md.Shariful Hasan Talujder,DGM(Production & Head Of The Factory),Md Maruf Mia(PM) Md.Abdus Salam, AGM,(Knitting &Fabrication) in Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. They gave always some of his valuable time regularly in helping us to achieve our intended goal. We also express our gratitude to all the executives of Bangle knitting, dyeing, cutting, sewing, finishing, store & inventory control. Of course we wish to pay our special thanks to the persons guided us cared us during this days- MD.Masud Rana, Manager,(Marketing &merchandising Dep’t. of Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. However, we have prepared our Industrial Project overcoming all the difficulties & also the shortage of time. Here we would like to present the report. Md.Yeasin Mia Md.Afjal Mia Industrial Attachment Repor - 1 -

  3. Chapter-I Project Description Industrial Attachment Repor - 2 -

  4. Company Profile Name of the Company: NOVEL HURRICANE KNIT GARMENTS LIMITED Company Type: 100% export oriented knit composite mill. We have two high capacity garments manufacturing plants where we can produce 18.70 million pieces of knit apparels per annum with the help of sophisticated machinery and well trained manufacturing team. Serving the needs to the global apparel market since 1999 as a leading manufacturer of quality and value added knit garments. Year of 1999 Establishment Manufacturing and marketing of wide range of knit Business lines apparels. Management -117 Employee Number Production -580 T-shirt, Polo shirt, Sweatshirt, Fleece shirt, Ladies Products Tops, etc. Production Capacity 7.50 million pieces per annum Export Market Europe , USA, Japan, German Industrial Attachment Repor - 3 -

  5. Location and Address: Corporate Office- 122/A, Tejgaon Industrial Area Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh Phone: 8815356, 8819373, 8855381 Fax: 880-2-8819372 Web site: www.nhk-ast.com Operational Office- Bokran, Monipur, Mirzapur Gazipur-1703, Bangladesh Phone: 0682555074, 0682555104 Fax: 88-0682555103 E-mail:nhk@nhk-ast.com Company Space: 500acre Products: All Types of Knit Fabric and Garments Production Capacity Per Month: Basic T-shirt 600,000 pcs Polo shirt 300,000 pcs Special Knit Item 400,000 kg Fleece Item 200,000 kg Rib/Interlock Item 400,000 kg Industrial Attachment Repor - 4 -

  6. Total worker (with knitting): 1100 General Manager: 68 Maintenance: 17 Different Departments- 1. Merchandising 2. HRD 3. Administration 4. Production -Sample section -Cutting section -Sewing section -Finishing section -Work Study -Quality section 5. Complains 6. Accounce 7. Store & inventory Control 8. Knitting section History of the development: a. Garments are the biggest export oriented industry and earns 65% foreign currency. b. Engaged about 30 lac people directly with this industry activities directly on the other hand one core people of the total country are engaged with his activities .Being it is the main source of earning foreign currency and labor oriented industry for which this project development and increasing day by day. Industrial Attachment Repor - 5 -

  7. Physical infrastructure: FIG: NOVEL HURRICANE KNIT GARMENTS LIMITED It is situated Gazipur basis area on about three acores of land of five stored-modern building including that different and various social humidity and department like 1. Welfare area . 2. Safety area . 3. Sufficient like fans and natural air flow the working. Atmospheric is nice hygienic and healthing. Remarks: It is one of the modern and model garments factory including ISO certified and WRAP certified factory Industrial Attachment Repor - 6 -

  8. Chapter-II Man power Management Industrial Attachment Repor - 7 -

  9. Organo gram: Chairperson:  Responsible for all management decision and actions take place in the company.  Approving company budgets.  Taking final decision on company profits/ loss and profit sharing between the shareholders.  Directly responsible to produce company budgets.  Responsible to work on fund management and cost control in all the process of the operation. Managing Director:  Reporting to Chairperson.  Responsible to board of director’s  Having total charge of the operation.  Directly responsible to overlook marketing department and fulfil marketing requirement.  Monitor factory operation and make sure orders and delivery on time with customer’s required quality at minimum cost.  Take the total change of all human resource activities and make sure GNF Ltd to have professional and cheerful work force. Director Operations:  Reporting to Managing Director. Industrial Attachment Repor - 8 -

  10.  Direct co-ordination with production Manager/ Sample Room In-Charge/ Quality manager/ Lab In-Charge.  Product analyzing and providing technical guidance for optimum benefit of the company.  Monitor productivity and take necessary actions and give advises.  Take charge of all pre production activities.  Take change of all new development.  Identify tanning needs.  Maintain safety system and procedures.  Introduce cost effective management methods. Merchandising Manager:  Report directly to Managing Director.  Co-ordinate with Marketing officer, Director Operations and Sample Room In- Charge.  Upgrade Managing Director on the progress.  Make contribution to production planning and make sure that the production plan is up to date.  Monitoring maintained and processed order information, this is transferred between head office and the factory.  Execute raw material booking and follow-ups.  Follow up and get it done samples from sample room with the help of the coordinator.  Understand the general/ technical problems in the factory, customer requirements and get buyers approvals where even possible. Marketing Manager:  Report directly to Managing Director.  Co-ordinator with Merchandising Manager.  Responsible for business development/ develop new supplier sources and cost control.  Frequent market research and up date.  Generate innovation to the organization.  Follow up current customer and ongoing orders.  Co-operate with customers and make.  Understand the general/ technical problems in the factory, convince customers and get customers approvals approvals where ever is possible on company interest.  Find business for surplus good.  Prepare and maintain management reports. Administration Manager:  Directly reporting to General Manager Industrial Attachment Repor - 9 -

  11. Co-ordinate with the entire department in changes and all the workers in the Factory. Responsible to monitor:  Factory timing.  Discipline and cleanliness.  Attendance, leave and holidays.  Security and maintenance of the factory.  Transportation and its maintenance.  Wagers, overtime pay, allowances and other payment.  Do necessary formalities during new recruitment or terminations.  Keep head office updated on regular intervals.  Management System: Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has maintained in the International Standard Management System. It is follow up ISO9001:2008 management system & WRAP standard. Shift System: Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has flows one shift and shift hour 8:00 AM to 5:00PM (Within one hour taking rest ). For emergency shiftment it is work overtime 5:00 PM to 10:00PM. Responsibility of production Officer: The production Officer is very sincere, proactive and very carefully every work. They doing work factory full time. The production officer solves the problem and how to know production planning and improvement of the production. The production manager maintain production department and increase productivity. Remarks: The management of Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. is very strong and they maintain every work carefully. The management supervising all of the factory and production Officer doing works carefully. Industrial Attachment Repor - 10 -

  12. Chapter-III Machine Description Industrial Attachment Repor - 11 -

  13. No. of Machine: The Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has used different type machine. This machine is high technology & ultra modern machine. Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has six hundred above machinery. The machine is use different section. The section wise machine is following- Cutting Section:      Fabric inspection m/c Straight knife m/c Brand knife m/c Fusing m/c Hand Operated Scissors Sewing Section:  Plain Machine(S/N)  Double Needle Machine(D/N)  Over lock Machine(O/L)  Flat lock Machine (F/L)  Kanshai Machine  Blend Stitching m/c Bar-tack Section:  Button Hole Machine  Button join Machine  Bar-tack Machine(B/T)  Snap button attaching m/c Finishing Section:  Suction Machine.  Repeat attaching m/c  Iron  Metal detector m/c  Spot cleaning m/c Industrial Attachment Repor - 12 -

  14. Make, Brand name ,Origin Model: They given below m/c name, origin ,make, brand name and model following table: Machine Name Brand Origin Model Quantity 1 CLOTH CUTTER K.M JAPAN KS-AUV-258857 5 2 BAND KNIFE K.M JAPAN S.BK-700 1 3 FABRIC INSPECTION M/C UZU UZ-900-31/72” 1 THAILAND 4 SINGLE NEEDLE BROTHER JAPAN SL-7340-5 306 5 DOUBLE NEEDLE BROTHER JAPAN T-8420A-005 22 6 5 THRED OVERLOCK BROTHER JAPAN FB-N310-5030-55- 3WF 32 7 HAMMING JUKI U.S.A US-63900AM1/2 4 8 ZIGZAK YAMATA CHINA FY-20043 3 9 FEED OF THE ARM BROTHER JAPAN DA-9280-D 9 10 BUTTON STITCH BROTHER JAPAN BE-438D 3 11 BUTTON HOLE BROTHER JAPAN HE-800A-2 3 12 EYELEY HOLE BROTHER JAPAN RH-981A-02 2 13 BARTACK BROTHER JAPAN KE-430D-02 12 14 SNAP ATTCH PRYM GERMANY PP5-600ZP 6 15 IRONING VACUUM TAB NAWMOTO JAPAN FB-700-SID 12 16 THRED SUCKER MODERN BANGLA TS05-12 1 Industrial Attachment Repor - 13 -

  15. 17 SPOT UZU THAILAND UZ-84 1 CLEANING 18 FUSING PESS HASHIMA CHINA HP-900CFS 1 19 NEEDLE DETECTOR LOCK EANGLAND PART#23065 SL#23065 1 20 BELT LOOP CUTTER NAOMATO CHINA SWA—1090-42P 8 21 THRED TRIMMER UNISUN TAIWAN US-100V 4 22 VELCO ATTACH JAPAN KE-436C 2 23 THRED WINDER OSHIMA TAIWAN OW-04/OW- 200296-CE 1 24 STRAPPING MAC OSHIMA TAIWAN OSHIMA-G-500 1 25 BOILER ELETIC DRAGON LOCAL - 2 26 KANSAI SOECIAL KANSAI JAPAN DFB-1404-WB 4 27 KANSAI SOECIAL ELASTIC KANSAI JAPAN DFB-1404-WB 4 28 BELT LOOP KANSAI JAPAN B2000C 1 29 COMPRESSOR JUCAI CHINA FT-100300 1 30 GENERATOR 380 KVA WILSON DIESEL EANGLAND P380F1 1 Industrial Attachment Repor - 14 -

  16. Main specification: Single needle sewing /plain machine:                        Thread stand Thread clamp Thread retainer Thread up lever guide Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Hand lifter Needle clamp Needle Feed dog SPI adjust Reverse lever bobbin winder pulley Needle plate Oil sight winder Pulley Belt cover Leg lifter Safety guide Motor Figure-Typical view of Plain M/c Sewing Machine types According to the operating system, there are two types of sewing m/c are available given below- 1. Manually Operated sewing machine 2. Electrically Operated sewing machine 1. Manually Operated sewing machine: The m/c in which sewing is done by physical power called Manually Operated sewing machines. These types of sewing m/c are widely used in tailoring and domestic purpose for sewing fabrics. Because of less production, these types of sewing m/c are not used in garments industry. Industrial Attachment Repor - 15 -

  17. 2. Electrically Operated sewing machine: The m/c, in which sewing is done by electrical power called Electrically Operated sewing machine. Comparatively these types of m/c contain high production and widely used in garments industries for making garments. The machines which are used in garments industries are called Industrial sewing m/cs. There are various types of industrial sewing machines are available named by- 1. Double chain stitch m/c (4-thread short) 2. Double chain stitch m/c (4-needle elastic inserting m/c) 3. Double chain stitch m/c (double needle with reverse feed) 4. Feed of the arm(double chain stitch m/c.3 needle) 5. Interlock m/c (2- needle 5-thread O/L M/c) 6. Lock stitch m/c (single needle with variable to feed with automatic thread trimmer) 7. Lock stitch m/c(single needle with automatic thread trimmer) 8. Lock stitch m/c (single needle sewing m/c) 9. Lock stitch m/c (2-needle with split needle bar sewing) 10. Lock stitch m/c (twin needle feed) 11. Lock stitch ink (1-needle with vertical trimmer wiper & reverse feed) 12. Lap seaming m/c (for back tape attaching) 13. Linking m/c 14. Over lock m/c (twin needle, 4-thread m/c) 15. Over lock m/c (1-needle, 3-thread) 16. Zigzag sewing m/c (1-needle) 17. Top & bottom cover stitch flat bed m/c, 3-needle 18. 3-needle covering m/c, 5-thread flat bed top & bottom covering m/c 19. Button hole m/c (for woven fabric) 20. Button sewing m/c 21. Bartak ink (with automatic thread trimmer) 22. Button hole sewing m/c (for knitted fabric) 23. Button covering stitch belt loop making m/c (kansai m/c) 24. Bias tape cutting m/c 25. Label sewing machine. Only main specification of different Sewing machine (m/c) are given below- Industrial Attachment Repor - 16 -

  18. Lock Stitching M/c:       Group S.P.M Needle name : DB*1 Needle size T.P.I Function : Lock Stitch : 1500-5500 : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. : 2.5 inches : Woven fabric stitching Figure :- Lock Stitching m/c Bar Tack M/c:       Group S.P.M Needle name : DP *5 Needle size Per bar tack Function : Lock stitch : 3000-3200 : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. : 8 inches : Bar tacking. Figure: Bar Tack m/c Kansai M/c:       Group S.P.M Needle name : UO * 113 Needle size Per bar tack Function : Chain stitch : 3000-3600 : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. : 16 inches : Jacket, cuff, fu-long pant, waist belt joining Feed of the Arm m/c: Group : Chain stitch S.P.M : 6000 Needle name : UY * 113 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. Per bar tack : 8 inches Figure: Feed of the Arm m/c Function : Inseam stitching of woven & jeans fabric. Industrial Attachment Repor - 17 -

  19. Single Needle Chain stitching m/c [1 needle 1 lopper 2 thread]: Group : Chain stitch S.P.M :1800 - 6500 Needle name : UV * 5 / TV * 7 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. T.P.I : 4 inches. Figure: Single Needle Chain stitching m/c Function : False stitching. Double Needle Chain stitching m/c [2 needle 2 lopper 4 threads]: Group : Chain stitch S.P.M : 1800 - 6500 Needle name : UV * 5 / TV * 7 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. Figure: Single Needle Chain stitching m/c T.P.I : 4 inches. Function : Side seam stitching. Button Hole M/C: Group – Lock stitch / Chain stitch S.P.M : 3600 Needle name : DP * 5 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. Per hole : 8 inches. Function : Button hole making Figure: Button Hole M/C Industrial Attachment Repor - 18 -

  20. Button Attaching m/c: Group : Lock stitch / Chain stitch S.P.M :1500 Needle name : TQ * 1 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. Function : Button attaching Figure: Button attaching m/c Blend Stitching m/c: Group : Chain stitch S.P.M : 2500 Needle name : LW * 6T Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. Per hole : 8 inches Function : Blend stitching making Zigzag Stitching M/C: Group : Lock stitch S.P.M : 1500 - 5500 Needle name : Db * Needle size – 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. Per hole : 5 inches. Function : Decorative seam making. Over lock m/c:    No of needle: One or multiple needle is used No of threads: 2-5threads are used Maximum stitch length is 4mm, but it can easily be adjusted by using push button system. SPM: 6500-8500 Edge trimmer knife is available in front of the needle.   Industrial Attachment Repor - 19 -

  21. The m/c is used for both woven & knitted fabrics Group Chain stitch Brand Name Juki Needle Type DC*1,DC*11,DC*14 Origin Japan Model :MO-3914,TO-42 Figure: Over lock m/c Cloth Cutting Machine: Machine Nam : K.M. Company Cloth Cutting Machine Model : KM KS-AUV Producer : Made by K.M. Cutting, Japan Type : Heavy Duty Industrial Cloth Cutting Machine Self Sharpening Dimension : 8’’W *11’’L *24’’H (Weight=33.5 lb) Current : A.C (3.3/2.6 amps) Speed : 3000/3600 Remarks: It is the most important factor for garments factory. To know m/c name .origin , model and what type of m/c work done properly and to know every parts of machine. Industrial Attachment Repor - 20 -

  22. Chapter-IV Raw Materials Industrial Attachment Repor - 21 -

  23. Types of raw materials: Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd is used different types of raw materials. Such as fabric , sewing thread, trimmings, accessories, spare parts etc. Source of Raw Materials: The raw materials are come from the Comilla EXPORT PROCESSING ZONE (CEPZ). Main suppliers for our fabrics, zipper & others are given bellow- Fabric supplier:       Main Land K.G. Denim Kashem Textile H.S. Textile Polash Textile - BANGLADESH Hossain Fabric Ltd – CHINA - INDIA - PAKISTAN –BANGLADESH - BANGLADESH Zipper supplier: L.S.I & Y.K.K. Thread: SANZI TEXT ANLIMA YARN TOTAL THREAD ACTIVE THREAD Label: COLOR KING GOLDEN LINE ETACOL Button: L.S.I. & Rupali Lace Poly: IMPERIAL Carton: BECO & COMILLA PACKAGING Hang Tag/ Paper tag: COLOR KING Price: The price is fixed by the management. Annual requirement: The requirement of raw materials depends on the production capacity. Increase productivity more raw materials are required. Annual requirement 20,000,00 yards of fabric. Industrial Attachment Repor - 22 -

  24. Remarks: It is the most important part of the garments factory. To know type of raw materials , fabric speciation and function. Industrial Attachment Repor - 23 -

  25. Chapter-V Production Planning Sequence and Operation Industrial Attachment Repor - 24 -

  26. Production planning It is a suitable and clear study and pre-arranging the techniques involves to a long series of operation for achieving best possible out comes at desired or scheduled time by using man, Material and m/c present in industry. Tools of production planning: 1. Motivation of worker 2. Education of training 3. Work study 4. Line balancing 5. Scheduling 6. Planning 7. Incentive 8. Inventory management 9. Quality management 10. Maintenance management Production parameter: There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments, proper selection of trims and its quality are very important for styling, otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned by the customers. Industrial Attachment Repor - 25 -

  27. Following is a part of list that covers some names of the trims: Zipper/Fastener  • Sewing Thread • Main Label • Flag Label • Button • Elastic • Eyelet hole • Tag s • Tag pin • Plastic clip • Sticker • Hanger • Poly bag • Scotch tape • Gum tape • Photo Board • Back Board • Tissue • Carton. Etc. Industrial Attachment Repor - 26 -

  28. Planning officer must know the following things:  Order number  Style name  Order quantity  Shipment date  Lead time  Style breakdown  Allocation the specific line of the style & the capacity of the style or not  Production per day according to the shipment order  Print status  For specific style how much printing unit can produce per day For achieve the plan target planning officer must ensure the following things:  Input(Cutting parts)  Accessories  Machineries  Manpower  Floor space to set up the machine  Required working hour.  Planning Department Procedure:  Have to good knowledge about planning.  Skilled workers are need.  To know about planning process.  Store of raw material availability.  To know market demand.  Order in hand availability.  Export availability of goods.  To set up man power .  To set up machinery. Problem of planning: Have to change the planning:  New order allocation  Printing supply delay  Shipment adjustment  Fabric supply delay  Trims & Accessories delay  Dyeing delay  Extra shipment Industrial Attachment Repor - 27 -

  29.  Order cancelled Reasons for production overtime: The planning section decided that whether the overtime is needed or not for specific order according to shipment date. Sometimes there have some reasons for overtime. The reasons are follows below:  Fabric shedding from dyeing  Print & Embroidery Delay supply  Emergency shipment  Quantity Trim & adjustment  Fabric delay supply  Trims & accessories insufficient/delay  Order quantity rebalance &pending work  Machine storage & problems  Interruption power supply by maintenance Industrial Attachment Repor - 28 -

  30. Sample Section Industrial Attachment Repor - 29 -

  31. Sample garments :The garments which is need for bulk production is called sample garment or sample garments is a small production the bulk amount of sample. Sequence of Sample Garments Making : Design/Sketch Basic block/Block Pattern Working Pattern Sample making Fault detection Cost determination Solve the problem (as required) Approved sample Production sample Design/Sketch: For the production of knit of woven garments a sketch of a particular garment including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after manufacturing of that garments could be verified or checked whether it looks like the sketch of not. Design/Sketch of the garments could be done manually or with the help computer. Basic block :The pattern which are made according to actual size , shape of standard body measurement without any design , style , allowances etc . Working Pattern :When a pattern is made for a particular style with net dimension then it is known as working pattern use for sample making. Sample Making: The pattern is used to cut the fabric. Then the garment component in fabric form is used to Sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment making is to be done by a very efficient and technically sound person. Approved sample :The sample ( according to buyer specification sheet )which is approved by buyers is known as approved sample Industrial Attachment Repor - 30 -

  32. Cutting Section Industrial Attachment Repor - 31 -

  33. Introduction: Cutting section is the most important and risky section in garments industry. For a little mistake full order may be cancelled. With the false management a big portion of garments may employed. With very care this section is handled. In Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. marker comes out for denim fabric there is marker use because if use the marker for denim fabric, frequently match of one side to the other. This is a buyer requirement to match the fabric. Normally big marker length is 5.5 yards and thickness of lay is 4 inch. there consists 05 cutting table. From the section of Straight Knife Cutting Machine: In Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. cutting machine by the help of skilled operator. Here use a blade which is very sharp and changed this on the basis of fabric quantity and composition, normally in every after 4 days. Here, in the below give a short description on this time. all the fabric is cut down with the straight knife Advantages:  As it comparatively cheaper, easy movement and maximum lay height could be cut, used extensively in garments industry. Could cut fabric at move curved line then round knife. Cutting could be done for up to 10 inch depth of the lay. Quick fabric cutting. Components could be cut out directly from the fabric lay. Grinding could be done during cutting. Could be cut at any angle.       Disadvantages:    Knife deflection may result due to heavy weight of the motor. Higher the depth of the lay, higher will be the deflection. Possibility of accident is higher. Requirement for Fabric Cutting: The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting: 1. Precision of fabric cutting: Industrial Attachment Repor - 32 -

  34. Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on method of cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting method is sued, then cutting and die cutting have their self cutting accuracy. 2. Consistent Cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensure that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape, otherwise the garments produced will be defective. 3. Infused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade produces temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 300°C. If the fabric contains synthetic fabric e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or other blends, then fused edge may result in the fibres melt at round 250°C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be a problem of irritation during use of garments. To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the following steps may be taken:     Reduce the height of the lay; Reduce the cutting speed; Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval; Lubricate the knife during cutting; 4. Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface should be capable to support the lay as well to ensure that all the piles are cut at a time during fabric cutting. In Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. the sequence of the operation in cutting Section is as follows: Industrial Attachment Repor - 33 -

  35. Flow Sequence of Cutting Sample pattern Order sheet Store receiving fabric Inspection of fabric Fabric width measure Marker making Fabric spreading Cutting Parts checking Numbering Panel check Industrial Attachment Repor - 34 -

  36. Bundling , shortening Transfer for sewing Fabric inspection: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. GSM Check Dia Check Fault Check Point calculation Four point system calculation Prepared fabric inspection report Prepared weight sheet Send to store (With Weight Sheet) Description of production process: Fabric received from store Before fabric laying a thin paper as like as marker that is marker size and thin paper size is same, then thin paper attach with spreading table by gum tape then spread the fabric according to marker size. Marker Making : Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments in such a way that fabric wastage would be least Marker width is equal to the minimum fabric width and its length depends on the no. of pattern sizes that will be the drawn . Method of marker making : 1)Manual Method 2)Computerized Method This factory used in manual method Advantages -Suitable for small production Industrial Attachment Repor - 35 -

  37. -Investment is low Disadvantages -More time required -High labour cost Fabric Spreading Fabric spreading is a process by which plice of fabric is spreaded in order to get required length and width as per marker dimension .This a preparatory operation for cutting and consists laying Method of fabric spreading 1)Manual method 2)Mechanical method This factory used manual method -Spreading complete by hand -Spreading by hook Straight fabric lays used in this factory -This lay is mostly used -Few fabric wastage Fabric cutting: Fabric lay is cutting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part. Numbering: In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number. Prepared the bundling card Prepared bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain      Program No Cutting No Size No Pies Roll No Industrial Attachment Repor - 36 -

  38. Bundling: In this stage all number are checked according to serial number. Quality inspection and part-back part is fold together: Here all parts are checked according to following fault.         Oil Sport Dirty Sport Crease mark Needle mark Foreign yarn Slub Contamination Hole Then same number of sticker are marked fold and bundled After Cutting Store: All bundles are put in the input rack then send to sewing section. Limitations of Cutting Section:  Input problem.  Scissor man cuts the tubular fabric to spread randomly and send to cutting floor and then find out the desired fabric to lay on the table.  There is maybe no group for any table.  Quality inspection and front part and back part are fold together. The faulty body parts are rejected but the rest ok body is not match by the same batch.  Cutting quality man may not be trained.  Check, variegated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result reject percentage may be increased.  Fabric Spreading.  There is may be no identification number to the rest of the cutting price of the lay.  There is no individual marker man for any unit.  Three cutting man cuts the fabric according to the marker.  Four man working with numbering m/c to sort out the cut fabric.  Two man preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric.  In this stage four men bundle the parts according to serial number. Industrial Attachment Repor - 37 -

  39. Sewing Section: Sewing Section is the crowds section in Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. All day long there machine are ruined according to the plan. From the cutting section the cutting parts of different garments brought in sewing section to sew. First of all machine is set out according to requirement. In this chapter I will try to give some flow chart of the different garments item sewing along with the machine lay out plan. I in sewing machine normally the following machine is used: Industrial Attachment Repor - 38 -

  40.  Plain Machine(S/N)  Double Needle Machine(D/N)  Over lock Machine(O/L)  Flat lock Machine(F/L)  Kanshai Machine  Button Hole Machine  Button join Machine  Rib Cutter Machine  Bar tack Machine(B/T) Sewing: Sewing Production Flow Chart: Input taken and sample arrange Cutting Store Cutting Sewing Store In line work Lay out submit PP meeting Label check Sewing Start During Sewing Out put Industrial Attachment Repor - 39 -

  41. Finishing Ship the Goods Sewing Procedure: Input taken and Sample arrange-  Input taken will provide by planning department with ensure the shipment date, size, break-down according to manpower of that line and confirm the checklist sheet of store is ok.  As per input taken planner will provide sample from sample department.  AQC will select the PP sheet and other necessary papers in the mentioned style. Cutting  Input man collects size-wise information from cutting section for giving the requisition in store for accessories (label; button, twill-tape etc.) Store  From store it has to ensure all the accessories if the mentioned style is in the house.  As per requisition store will start to arrange the accessories.  One requisition is given for thread Cutting:  Input man will collect the size wise input by counting which is confirmed by cutting section.  Pre-work, printing, embroidery and other parts have to give by accurate check and counting as per input quantity which will taken by sewing input man. Sewing:  Input man put the input in rack by size-wise. Store: Industrial Attachment Repor - 40 -

  42.  Store will provide all the accessories as per requirement of the inputted quantity and input man take accessories by counting. In line work:  After getting all necessary things supervisor will start paper layout and take necessary actions to avoid the problems which can be affected during pick production line. Layout submits:  Before start the production, supervisor submit the layout sheet in IE and maintenance department. PP meeting:  Before starting the sewing in the line of the style it has to be conduct pp meeting to avoid the missing of buyer comments or requirement. Label check:  AQC check the label against trim card and give the permission to start the sewing. Sewing start:  It is mentioned that sewing will start by size wise which quality is large. During sewing:  Supervisor and line-chief doing the major job during the sewing.  They always try to solve the up-coming problem.  Maintain the hourly production with right quality. Output:  After doing all processes and quality check garments will stored in output table.  Reporter will collect the garments from output table.  After collecting the garments, reporting will count and delivery the goods finishing section by size wise. Finishing:  Finishing will ensure that the size wise quantity is ok as per order quantity.  If there any size missing or size wise breakdown not accurate as per order quantity they have to inform the respective production officer. Ship the Goods: Industrial Attachment Repor - 41 -

  43.  As per order quantity finishing will complete carton and make as final inspection.  After final inspection goods will delivery for shipment. Sewing sequence of polo shirt SL NO.OPRATION MACHINE SMV MAN POWER 1 Placket rolling 1 p/m 6.1 OP=1,HL=1 2 Moo 1 p/m 14 OP=1 3 Moon top stitch 1 F/L 12.4 OP=1,HL=1 4 5 6 7 8 Kasa maring (neck close) Placket matching with front Placket attach with front part Placket top stitch Placket tuck 1 P/M 11.44 OP=1 ,HL=2 OP=1 OP=1,HL=1 OP=1,HL=1 Table P/M (Auto) 1 P/M 1 P/M 20.40 20.00 17.1 9 Matching (F&B part) Table 13.0 OP= 1,HL=1 10 Solder joint with solder tap 1 0/L 10.0 OP=1,HL=1 11 12 Solder top stitch Collar cut without thread 1 F/L 12.00 6.00 OP=1,HL=1 OP=1,HL=1 O/L( N o NEED) 13 14 Collar tuck with Placket Collar joint with body 1 1 P/M O/L 15.33 10.0 OP=1,HL=1 OP=1,HL=1 15 Neck piping 1 F/L 10,2 OP=1,HL=1 16 Main label joint 1 P/M 12.5 OP=1,HL=1 17 Sleeve hem joint with Sleeve 1 OIL 13.00 OP=1,HL=1 18 Collar back top stitch 2 F/L 17.50 OP= 2,HL=2 19 Cutting& Matching (Sleeve& Table 7.00 HL= 2 20 Sleeve joint 2 O/L 22.50 OP= 2,HL=2 21 Placket Kasa mara 1 P/M 19.30 OP=1 22 Placket 1/16 top stitch P/M (Auto) 11.00 OP=1 Industrial Attachment Repor - 42 -

  44. 23 Placket tuck 1 P/M 13.40 OP=1,HL=1 24 Care label joint 1 P/M 14.10 OP=1 25 Placket box top stitch 2 P/M 20.00 OP= 2,1.1 26 Inspection all back process Table 11.40 OP=1 I 27 Bottom hem 1 F/L 13.20 OP=1,HL=1 28 Side seam 2 0/L 31.00 OP= 2 HL=2 29 Side band twill tap 1 P/M 10.40 OP=1,HL=1 'f 30 Side band tuck 1 P/M (Auto) 17.30 OP=1 31 Side band top stitch 2 P/M 29.30 OP= 2,HL=2 32 Sleeve inside tuck 1 P/M 12.00 OP=1 HL=1 33 Sleeve outside top stitch 1 P/M 9.30 OP= I,HL=1 34 Side band tuck 1 P/M 17.50 OP=1,HL=1 35 Button hole 1 B/H 12.30 OP=1 36 Button Positionin able 10.00 OP=1 g 37 Button attaching 1 B/A 14.10 OP=1 Here , Symbol Name Quantity P/M Plain machine 18 O/L Over lock m/c 8 Industrial Attachment Repor - 43 -

  45. P/M (Auto) Auto Plain m/c 3 F/L Flat lock m/c 6 B/H Button hole m/c 1 B/A Button attaching m/c 1 OP Operator 40 HL Helper 33 Total Machine = 37 Total Manpower = 73 Result: Total time required to making garments is 9:28 if single machine is used. But double machine is used in (operation, 18, 21, 25, 28, 31) so that time Reduce 60 secede. Actual Total time required to making a garments=8:28 minutes (basic time) Sewing sequence of T- shirt Parts name M/c name No of m/c Side seam joining 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c Label tuck Plain m/c 1 m/c Label join with body Plain m/c 1 m/c Side top seam 3 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c Shoulder join 4 thread Over lock m/c _ 1 m/c Shoulder top seam 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c Rib v sewing Plain m/c 1 m/c Rib show tuck Plain m/c 1 m/c Rib servicing 2 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c Rib servicing by cutting Over lock m/c 1 m/c V tuck with body Plain m/c 2 m/c Neck join 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c Rib binding 2 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c Back top seam Plain m/c 1 m/c Sleeve inside tuck 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/c Industrial Attachment Repor - 44 -

  46. Sleeve hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c Sleeve join 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c Body hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c Quality check Men 2 person T shirt layout (Long sleeve): Parts name First shoulder join Neck binding/piping Binding tuck Second shoulder join Shoulder top stitch False tuck on the neck Sleeve join Arm hole top seam Side seam join Sleeve hem Body hem Care label Quality check M/c Name 4 thread Over lock m/c 3 thread flat lock m/c Plain m/c 4 thread Over lock m/c 5 thread flat lock m/c Plain m/c 4 thread Over lock m/c 5 thread flat lock m/c Feed of the arm (6 thread) 3 thread flat lock m/c 3 thread flat lock m/c Plain m/c Men No of m/c 1 m/c 1 m/c 1 m/c 1 m/c 2 m/c 1 m/c 2 m/c 2 m/c 6 m/c 2 m/c 1 m/c 1 m/c 2 person Sewing sequence of Tank Top Parts name M/c Name No of m/c First shoulder joint 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/c Neck piping 3 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c Neck tuck Plain m/c 2 m/c Second shoulder joint 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/c Chup tuck(Neck) Plain m/c 1 m/c Industrial Attachment Repor - 45 -

  47. Armhole piping 5 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c Plain m/c Armhole Tuck 2m/c 4 thread Over lock m/c Side joint 2m/c Body Hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c Seam Definition: In sewing a seam is the line where two or more layers of fabric are held together by stitching. In order words, the line of joining of fabric is called seam. The arrangement of fabric ends at the seam line called seam type Properties of Seam: Properties of seam are assessed on the following two aspects:  Appearance After sewing, the seam area is observed for any defects, if present which affects outlook. Normally it is expected that there will be no defective view of stitches, seam pucker, or unsightly view.  Performance: Performance of a seam is assessed according to following criteria.  Seam strength: strength of a seam should be equal to or slightly less than the fabric strength.  Seam elasticity: Elasticity property of a seam should be equal to or greater than the fabric elasticity. Industrial Attachment Repor - 46 -

  48.  Durability: Durability of a seam equal to or greater than the durability of the fabric. Especially during wear and washing, the seam should not fail or damage due to frictional forces and tension.  Security: During normal use of apparels, the seam should not fail due to simple reason. Confidence of normal stability of seam is the security of the seam. If the seam fails due to normal reason the situation might be unexpected.  Comfort ability: Apparels, during normal use should not create any irritation or problem to body and health as well.  Special property: If clothing has any special property like water proof, fire proof, chemical resistant, etc then in manufacturing this apparel the seam should be produced in such a way that the seam have also such special property. Garment seam: Seam is the combination of stitch which makes line to join two ply of fabric. It has both functional and decorative purpose. There are 8 classes of Seam: 1. Seam Class 1 : 2. Seam Class 2 : 3. Seam Class 3 : 4. Seam Class 4 : 5. Seam Class 6 : 6. Seam Class 7 : 7. Seam Class 8 : Superimposed Seam Lapped Seam Bound Seam Flat Seam Edge neatening Seam Applied Seam Belt loop Seam Factors that affect seam strength: Five factors that determine the strength of a seam include:      Fabric type and weight. Thread fiber type, construction, and size. Stitch and seam construction. Stitches per inch. Stitch balance. Seam type: Seam types in the apparel industry are used to categorize according to their structure. Each is classified by the abbreviated seam type(example: Superimposed Seam= SS). There are more than 100 types of seam and all those seams are grouped under 8 (eight) classes, called seam Industrial Attachment Repor - 47 -

  49. classes. Each seam class is useful for different condition methods. The seam class are discussed below: Seam class-1(Super imposed seam): Seam under this class have a general characteristic and all the fabric ends are lying in one side of the seam. This type of seam is used for general sewing, trouser side seam etc. Seam class-2(Lapped seam): This class of seaming has the largest number of variations. A lapped seam is achieved with two or more pieces of fabric overlapping each other. LS commonly, but not always, have one ply of fabric fold under itself for a finishing edge. Lapped seam are common when working with leather and sewing side seams on jeans and dress shirts. Fabric ends lie at both sides of the seam line. Seams under this class are very strong. Seam class-3 (Bound seam): The purpose of a bound seam is to finish an edge of a garments. A common example of this would be a neckline of a t-shirt. A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw edge of another piece of fabric. There are 18 variations of a bound seam. Seams under this class are produced with at least two pieces of fabric. One piece of fabric bound the open end of other piece of fabric. Industrial Attachment Repor - 48 -

  50. Seam class-4(Flat seam): Flat seams are constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edges. A cover stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric together. This stitch has multiple needles and creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line. This creates a flat seam which is commonly used on garments the fit closely to the body such as underwire. The purpose is to create a seam that will be flat throughout the duration of the garments life. Seam under this class are produced by keeping the fabric plies side by side i.e. without overlapping of plies of fabric. Hence seams can produced without increasing the thickness of the seam. Seam class-5(Decorative seam) Seams under this class are produced only for decoration purpose with single pieces or multi- pieces of fabric. Seam class-6(Edge neatening) Seams under this class are produced in such a way so that the fabric ends from cut area cannot come out during use. Over lock sewing is frequently used for this purpose. Industrial Attachment Repor - 49 -

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