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Industrial attachment of tusuka group

Industrial attachment of tusuka group

sheshir
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Industrial attachment of tusuka group

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  1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF

  2. Abstract The aim of industrial practice is to make us familiar with any kind of industry, the whole process going on the industry, its environment and also with the management system of the industry. As a student of Textile Engineering Department, the target of should be to know the production process, management system, marketing, production planning, quality assurance, compliance, mechanical-electrical department etc. It is because of the fact that to run any industry not only production department is obvious but also the capability of managing the whole system is an obvious matter. It is also a responsibility of an engineer is to develop the ongoing process into a better system to cope with the present competition. Thus a diversified challenge emerges in front of the manufacturer and other organizations. With a view to overcome this consequence a new generation of engineering graduates with leadership skills and management capabilities altogether are in demand. We the students of Textile Engineering Department were sent to different industries and assigned to different tasks. I was assigned to TUSUKA JEANS. TROUSER & PROCESSING LTD.

  3. Objectives of Internship Objective: The objective of the report is to learn about the overall activities of different departments in TUSUKA JEANS.TROUSER & PROCESSING LTD. A primary textile industry Academic knowledge is not perfect without practical knowledge. Specific Objectives: This intern paper has been prepared for fulfilling the following specific objectives: To enlarge the dimension of knowledge regarding garments manufacturing as well as others. To define and evaluate the performance of garments manufacturing Department as well as others. To observe the effectiveness of garments manufacturing as well as others. To get the additional knowledge in different sections of the organization.

  4. To interchange opinions of the officials regarding their organization. To know the economic condition of RMG in Bangladesh through Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd. To identify the difference between theory (what we have learned from the text) and practice (what is really happened). To compare the improvement of the present condition of the Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd. with the previous years. To mention the problems that Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd. face in the process of production and delivery of garments & give some suggestions. To identify the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of the Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd. Table of contents Table of contents Chapter Topics Introduction project description Page No. 01-02 Introduction and project description of Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd. Human resource management Machine description Company profile Sister concerns Buyers / clients Organogram of company 03-04 04-05 06-09 10-12 Objectives of management system HR Department ADMINISTRATION Department Social policy List of machinery, brand name, m/c specification, specialty of machine 13 14-17 17 18-20 21-35 Raw material & store Types of raw material, sources of raw materials Store, technical store, fabrics & accessories store, consumption, inspection method, shrinkage test, inventory system Swatch making, GSM check, CAD,PATTEN, MARKER, section 36 37-41 Production planning, 42-81

  5. sequences & operation wise garments making and quality control & inspection (sample to finishing section) Function of merchandising, sequences of merchandising, qualities of merchandising, costing, commercial & shipment documentation view( packing list, UD, BL,L/C) Merchandising 82-89 Compliance issue Compliance, different compliance issues, compliance item 89-91 Conclusion 92 Introduction: Industrial attachment is an important and essential part of 4 year B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Course of PRIMEASIA UNIVERSITY. Actually industrial attachment is the practical experience for every Textile Engineer which is needed to be familiar not only the industry but also all over the necessary job related to continue in any industry. During student life a student cannot know about the practical condition so its badly needed for every student for attain for the industrial attachment .The Tusuka Group is truly an excellent industry from our point of view. All types of modern technology are well arranged here. Every section in here helps us so much by giving information during our training period which was unbelievable. Specially merchandising section with management maintain the buyer managing System, a vital role for the companies smooth operation and development, we are

  6. so satisfied and lucky student to complete our Industrial Attachment in Tusuka Jeans Trouser & Processing Ltd. We think this Industrial Attachment will be outstanding helpful in our future career life. Page1 PROJECT DESCRIPTION: The Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd. is a garments-manufacturing complex built on Neelnagar, Konabari, Gazipur, Bangladesh. It is the largest complex of its kind in South Asia producing high quality garments. Swiss, Italian, German, and French made manual and computer-controlled machineries have been installed in each of the divisions to deliver quality textiles, which meet the demand of European and American customers. Major portion of turnover of the textile segment are for RMG units. Total fabrics requirement for the group RMG segment is around 50 million yards per year. To mention apart from cost advantage, sourcing from own backward linkage ensures quality of the product as well as lead-time advantage for the RMG segment.

  7. Page 2 Company profile: Overview: Tusuka is in garment business since 1997, started as a buying house named "texel" focusing only the woven market. With the vision of specialized denim/jeans making, in 2001 Tusuka started its venture as jeans manufacturer with only 2 sewing lines and a small laundry to take the opportunity of globally growing demand of denim garment. After a year management found the necessity of a large world class in house laundry section to fulfill the vision. So from 2003 management started to expended the laundry and new sewing lines in its compound. Now Tusuka has the washing capacity of 45000pcs per day, with total 34 sewing lines specialized in denim garment making. COMPANY NAME: TUSUKA JEANS.TROUSER & PROCESSING LTD. CORPORATE HEAD QUARTER: HEAD OFFICE House- #50(5th floor),

  8. Road-11, Block-F, Banani Dhaka-1213, Bangladesh. Tusuka Jeans Ltd. Tusuka Jeans Ltd. Tusuka Jeans Ltd. is located at Tusuka Complex. Konabari, Gazipur, 40 minutes drive from Dhaka International Airport. The unit consists of two buildings, which accommodate a total space of 105,000 Sqft.. There are 12 sewing lines in this factory and has got all specialized machines to produce 14,400 pcs 5 pocket jeans or 10800 pcs cargo jeans per day with a man power of 2250. The factory mainly uses machines of Juki, Kansai & Union Special brand to produce heavy weight pants. Page 3 Tusuka Trousers Ltd. Tusuka Trousers Ltd. This is factory with 12 sewing lines located at Tusuka Complex Konabari, Gazipur. It has all the specialized machines to produce 19,200 pcs 5 pocket jeans or 14400 pcs cargo jeans per day with 3000 man power. The total p production area of the factory is 1,63,000 Sqft.. MAIN PRODUCTION ITEM: TROUSERS & JEANS. Sister Sister concerns are concerns are: : *Tusuka Apparels Ltd. This factory is located at Tongi BSCIC area which is 8 kilometers away from Dhaka International Airport . This is a new factory with 4 sewing lines and per day capacity is 6400 pcs of 5 pocket jeans or 4800 pcs of cargo jeans. Total man power is 850 and total area is 43,250 Sqft.

  9. * Tusuka Fashions Ltd. Tusuka Fashions Ltd. is located at Tongi only 7 kilometers from Dhaka International Airport . There are 900 employees engaged in the process of cutting, sewing, checking, finishing, quality control & stores to create the unique quality. There are 4 sewing lines in this unit and produces 6400 pcs of 5 pocket jeans pants or 4,800 pcs of cargo jeans pants per day & production area 42000 Sqft. . Jeans & Polo Ltd. This factory is located at Tongi BSCIC area which is 8 kilometers away from Dhaka International Airport . This is a new factory with 4 sewing lines and per day capacity is 6400 pcs of 5 pocket jeans or 4800 Pcs of cargo jeans. Total man power is 850 and total area is 43,250 Sqft. Page 4 Parkview Dresses Ltd. This factory is located at Tongi,Gazipur. This is a new factory with 4 sewing lines and per day capacity is 6400 pcs of 5 pocket jeans or 4800 pcs cargo pants. Total man power is 850 and total area is 55,000 sqft. Tusuka Processing Ltd. The washing plant is equipped to produce high quality stone, enzyme & dying of jeans & casual wear. It is situated at Konabari, the same complex of Tusuka jeans & Tusuka packaging. Computer operated machines produce consistent quality by the support of modern equipments to control water PH, steam pressure and temperature. The wastewater is pre cleaned & processes before discharged to the closed drainage system. The factory have 1106j sets machines from all USA & EUROPEAN BRAND like Tolon, Tulker, Milnor, Washex, Lapow, Celso, Euro stone with a wet process capacity 60000 pcs per day. The washing plant also has a dry process capacity of 40,000 pcs per day where we can do hand brushing, whiskering, grinding, tacking, pp spraying, laser and 3 dimensional whiskering on the jeans . Total man power is 3200 And total area is 140000 sqft.We also have waste water treatment plant (ETP).

  10. Needle Art Embroidery Ltd. This factory is located at Tusuka Complex. Konabari,Gazipur . This is a new factory which production area is 4000 Sqft. and Workers have 120 . There are 10 Machines – a) 9 Color (Capacity 73 Head) b) 7 Color (Capacity 38 Head). Tusuka Packaging Ltd. Produces quality export boxes for our products. The unit has 50 employee to produce approx 8,000 Pcs of medium size cartons per day. Spatiality: Staple Less carton, Virgin Carton etc. Page 5 Clients: Clients: Tusuka main customers are to given as under: BUYER LOGO **USA • BIMINIBAY • VF ASIA

  11. CORA **CANADA • JOE FRESH Page 6 **FRANCE • AUCHAN • CAREFOUR • SILVER JEANS **SPAIN • ZARA

  12. SPRING FIELD EL CORTE INGLES Page 7 **NETHERLAND • WE **SWITZERLAND • CHARLES VOGELE **ITALY

  13. ALCOTT • OLIMPIAS **SWEDEN • H & M • KAPPAHI Page 8 **POLAND • LPP **NORWAY • VARNER GROUP EXPORT CHART:

  14. Page 9 Organogram of all division: Organogram of Head Office:

  15. Page 10 ORGANOGRAM OF ADMIN AND PRODUCTION:

  16. Page 11

  17. GARMENTS MANAGEMENT: ORGANISATION STRUCTURE Page 12

  18. The objectives of human resource management system activities can be listed as follows: To ensure that the organization apply equal employment opportunities and other government obligations. To conduct job analysis to specify different requirements of jobs in an organization. To identify personnel requirements that led the organization to achieve its objectives. To develop and implement a plan that meet personnel and job requirements. To recruit employees needed by the organization in order to achieve its objectives. To select personnel in order to fill vacant positions within an organization. To provide orientation and training to the employees. To design and implement management and organizational development programs. To design and implement performance appraisal systems to evaluate employee performance. To assist employees in developing career plans. To design and implement compensation systems for employees. To mediate the relationship between organizations and its units. To design systems for discipline and grievance handling. To develop employee communication system. To develop employee health and safety programs. Page 13

  19. HR DPARTMENT: Functions of Human Resource Department A typical Human Resource Department is carries out the following functions: Manpower Planning It involves the planning for the future and finding out how many employees will be needed in the future by the business and what types of skills should they possess. It depends on the following factors The number of people leaving the job The projected growth in sales of the business Technological changes Productivity level of the workers Job analysis and Job description HR Department is also involved in designing the Job analysis and Job description for the prospective vacancies. A job analysis is the process used to collect information about the duties, responsibilities, necessary skills, outcomes, and work environment of a particular job. Job descriptions are written statements that describe the: duties, responsibilities, most important contributions and outcomes needed from a position, required qualifications of candidates, and Reporting relationship and co-workers of a particular job. Page 14

  20. Determining wages and salaries HR Department is also involved in conducting market surveys and determining the wages and salaries for different position in an organization. This decision may be taken in consultation with top management and the Finance department. Recruitment and Selection One of the most important jobs HR departments is to recruit the best people for the organization. This is of crucial importance as the success of any organization depends on the quality of its workforce. Performance Appraisal Once the employees are recruited, the HR Department has to review their performance on a regular basis through proper performance appraisals. Performance appraisal is the process of obtaining, analysing and recording information about the relative worth of an employee. The focus of the performance appraisal is measuring and improving the actual performance of the employee and also the future potential of the employee. Its aim is to measure what an employee does. On the basis of performance appraisal the HR Department will set up an action plan for each employee. If the employees need any training then he provided that. Training and Development HR department is constantly keeping a watch over the employees of the organization. In order to improve the efficiency level of the employees they have go undergo regular trainings and development programmers. All trainings and development needs are carried out by this department. Training might include on the job or off the job training. Page 15

  21. Employee welfare and motivation Happy employees mean a healthy organization. HR Department conducts various employee welfare activities which might include employees get together, annual staff parties etc. HR department also reviews organizational policies and its impact on the motivation of the employees. Addressing employee’s grievances HR department is the link between the workers and the management. Employee’s grievances related work environment are usually entertained and resolved by the HR Department. Labor management relations For the smooth operation of any organization, it is crucial to have good labor management relations. HR department has to ensure that these Relations are cordial. In case of any labor-management conflict the HR Department will play a vital role in bringing both management parties to the negotiation table and resolving the issue. Implementing organizational policies HR Department has to coordinate with line manager and see that the organizational policies are being implemented in a proper manner. Disciplinary action can be initiated against employees who are not following organizational rules and regulations. All these actions are conceived and implemented by the HR department. Dismissal and redundancy HR Department has to take firm actions against employees who are not following the organizational code of conduct, rules and regulations. This can result in the dismissal of the employee. Page 16

  22. Sometimes, an organization may no more require the services of an employee. The employee may be made redundant. HR Department has to see that organizational and government regulations are being followed in this process. ADMINISTRATION DEPARTMENT: Depending on the sector, the role may also include many of the following: using a variety of software packages, such as Microsoft Word, Outlook, PowerPoint, Excel, Access, etc., to produce correspondence and documents and maintain presentations, records, spreadsheets and databases; devising and maintaining office systems; booking rooms and conference facilities; using content management systems to maintain and update websites and internal databases; attending meetings, taking minutes and keeping notes; managing and maintaining budgets, as well as invoicing; liaising with staff in other departments and with external contacts; ordering and maintaining stationery and equipment; sorting and distributing incoming post and organizing and sending outgoing post; liaising with colleagues and external contacts to book travel and accommodation; organizing and storing paperwork, documents and computer-based information; Photocopying and printing various documents, sometimes on behalf of other colleagues. Other duties may include: recruiting, training and supervising junior staff and delegating work as required; manipulating statistical data; Arranging both in-house and external events. Page 17

  23. SOCIAL POLICY: Management Systems Assessment and Certification The Tusuka Group is committed to the best human workplace practices. Their goal is to continuously improve their Human resource policies and procedures through education, training, communication and employees involvement. BSI Group is the world‘s largest certification body. It audits and provides certification to companies worldwide who implement management systems standards. BSI also provides a range of training courses regarding implementation and auditing to the requirements of national and international management systems standards. It is independently accredited and delivers assessments for a wide range of standards and other specifications including: • ISO 9001 (Quality), • ISO 14001 (Environment), • ISO 22222 (Financial Planning), • ISO 50001 (Energy management systems), • OHSAS 18001 (Occupational Health and Safety), • ISO/IEC 27001 (previously BS 7799 for Information Security), • ISO/IEC 20000 (previously BS 15000 for IT Service Management); • PAS 99 (Integrated Management), • BS 25999 (Business Continuity), • Greenhouse Gas Emissions Verification, • SA8000 (Social Accountability) and • Food Safety standards and specifications, including ISO 22000. Page 18

  24. AS9100, AS9110, AS9120 Aerospace • EU Emissions Trading System (EU ETS) BSI certifies approximately 60,000 locations in over 124 countries and operates across the UK, CEMEA, Asia Pacific (including Japan and China) and the Americas. Subsequent to an acquisition in 2006, BSI also offers a web-based integrated management system software service called Entropy Software, which specializes in helping large organizations manage risk and compliance issues. BSI Group also offers a range of training services on how businesses can implement and audit management systems effectively. SOCIAL BENEFIT Social, ethical and environmental impacts for our customers, employees and the world we're all living in. We believe that the real business quality cannot be achieved unless considering responsibilities for its The social responsibility that we undertake is not about only compliance with the minimum legal requirements, it is about improving the living and working quality for all concerns by trying to achieve above the standards. As an essential part of our core values, we naturally undertake the responsibility to help people aiming to improve their living and working quality. Nevertheless, our competitive advantage of corporate reliability also relies on our social and ethical behaviors including followings: •Buyers' code of conduct is strictly being followed in all areas with strong emphasis to human rights, occupational health and safety issues. • Adherence to all local and international compliances as regards to work environment, physical environment and welfare of work forces • In-house doctors provide round the clock medical services • Child care rooms for the working mothers Page 19

  25. • Free lunch for employees to ensure proper dietary intake. • Work forces' voices are being heard and considered through Workers Welfare Committee. MACHINE DESCRIPTION: Production machine description PATTERN MAKING MACHINE: PATTERN MAKING MACHINE: 1. High speed and accuracy supported by servomotor, straight lead rail and integrated circuit block. 2. Easy to operate. 3. Compatible with any CAD software. 4. Stable performance with long using lifetime Marker drawing machine: Marker drawing machine: LECTRA PLOTTER & DIGITIZER SYSTEM HARDWARE: FL-DEGIPLAN 3 A0, FL-LC-FOOT, PLOTTER ALYS 60. SOFTWARE: MODARIS (MODE PRO V5R2): FOR PATTERN Page 20

  26. DESIGN, GRADING & EDITING DIAMINO (MARKPACK V5 R2): FOR PRODUCTION MARKER MAKING PATTERN PATTERN Cutting Machine: Cutting Machine: Brand name: WINDA Product Description Pattern Cutting Plotter Winda series cutting machine is consisted by a fixed table, automatic feed-up device and operating software. It is widely used in garment, shoes and box-bag industry, etc. The high quality machine guarantees extreme precision and rapidity. Features: •Dual head for drawing and cutting, both head working separately; •Fully automatic feeding device; Page 21

  27. •Cutting material thickness up to 2mm; •High precision cutting to improve the quality of your product; •Save cost, save time, save labor force (3~5workers), save energy, save material. Sewing Machine Description Sewing Machine Description Which are used in sewing section: 1. Plain m/c 2. Over lock m/c 3. Flat lock m/c 4. Kansai m/c 5. Chain stitch m/c 6. Vertical m/c 7. Eyelet hole m/c 8. Two needle m/c 9. Feed of the Arm m/c 10. Zigzag m/c 11. Bar tack m/c 12. Button Holing m/c 13. Button attach m/c 14. Pocket welting or attach m/c Page 22

  28. # Description of the Machines Are Bellow: 1.PLAIN MACHINE: Brand name : JUKI Properties - • One needle FIG: plain m/c • Two tensioners • Three guide • One hook • Two thread • One bobbin case • One magnate guide Applications - • Bottom hemming • Belt top seem stitch • Belt joint stitch • Loop tack stitch • Pocket joint stitch Page 23

  29. • Zipper joint • Flap make • Flap top stitch 2.FLAT LOCK MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI FIG: flat lock m/c Properties: • 4tensioner • 3 thread • Contain a holder • 2needle Applications - • Zigzag stitch • Knit hemming • Loop making Page 24

  30. 3.OVER LOCK SEWING MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI Overlook stitching was invented by the MERROW Machine Company in 1881.An overlook stitch sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming or seaming. Usually an overlook sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through (such machines are called ‗SERGERS‘), though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows over look machines to create finished seams easily and quickly. Specifications - • This over lock sewing machine is applicable to cover edging operation of thin, moderate and thick fabrics. Due to its automatic lubricating device. • The machine operates perfectly and smoothly at low sewing tension, and perfect stable stitches even at high speed seaming. • Suitable for thin, moderate and thick fabrics. Fig: 4 THREAD OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINE Page 25

  31. Properties - • 5 thread/4 thread/3 thread • 4tensioner • 2 knifes (up / down) • 2 needle for 5 thread • 1 needle for 3 thread • 3 lopper for 5 thread • 2 lopper for 3 thread Applications – *side seam *armhole *sleeve 4.BARTACK MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI The high speed bar tacking machine is designed for making reinforced stitching or various kinds of clothing such as suits/jeans and working clothes and also for eye let button hole tacking. Tack length can be easily adjusted. Reduction gear and some mechanism simplified to get improved durability and reliability. Page 26

  32. FIG: Bartack m/c Applications - *To created Barack stitches in garments. Bar tacking is a specialized sewing stitch designed to provide immense tensile strength to the garment or equipment it is used on. Bar tacking is commonly used on backpacks, tents, tactical gear, and other heavy wear sewn items where normally sewn stitches might give way at a crucial moment. In general, bar tacking is a sign of good quality, although the rest of the product should always be looked over carefully as well. When a sewing pattern calls for bar tacking, it indicates that the designer feels that section of the pattern is a critical area that needs extra reinforcement and following areas it can used. • Loop attach • Fly make • Pocket side • Front side Page 27

  33. • Back pocketing • side seam • In seem 5.KANSAI MACHINE: Brand name: Kansai special Kansai sewing machine is suitable for zigzag sewing, embroidery, abutted seam on light and medium material. It has excellent performance ratio and is conveniently arranged. It has bobbin winder integrated in the arm cover with in operator‘s view. It is suitable to sew underwear, corset, waist sections of ladies body suits, and swim suits. FIG: Kansai m/c Properties: • 2needle • 4 thread Page 28

  34. • 8tensioner • 21 lopper point (used two lopper depends on distance of stitches) Applications - • Back yoke stitch • Waistband stitch Front placket 6.CHAIN STITCH MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI Chain stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique in which a series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. Chain stitch is an ancient craft – examples of surviving Chinese chain stitch embroidery worked in silk thread have been dated to the Warring States period (5th-3rd century BC). Handmade chain stitch embroidery does not require that the needle pass through more than one layer of fabric. For this reason the stitch is an effective surface embellishment near seams on finished fabric. Because chain stitches can form flowing, curved lines, they are used in many surface embroidery styles that mimic ―drawing‖ in thread. FIG: Chain stitch m/c Page 29

  35. Properties - • 2needle • 2looper • 4thread & 4tensioner (back 2/front 2) Applications - • Back rise stitch • Back yoke stitch • Top seen ¼ stitch 7.Feed off the Arm m/c: Buyer name: JUKI FIG: Feed off the arm m/c Properties - • 2needle • 2Lopper Page 30

  36. • 4 thread (Lopper 2/needle 2) • Contains T & Magnate guide • 3tensioner Applications - • Back rise stitch • Inseam stitch • Back yoke top seen 8.BUTTON HOLING MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI Buttonholes are holes in fabric which allow buttons to pass through, securing one piece of the fabric to another. The raw edges of a buttonhole are usually finished with stitching. This may be done either by hand or by a sewing machine. Some forms of button, such as a Mandarin button, use a loop of cloth or rope instead of a buttonhole. Fig: EYE LET BUTTON HOLE MACHINE Properties - • 2 thread Page 31

  37. • 1 needle • 2tensioner • Contains bobbin case, hook & knife Applications - • To make button hole in garment 9.BUTTON ATTACH MACHINE: Buyer name: JIKET • This is a single needle chain stitch button sewing machine which inherits the excellent sewing capability and hassle; free operation. • The four hole button sewing mode can be easily switched over to two hole button sewing. • Number of stitches and stitching patterns are easily adaptable. • The machine ensures consistence sewing performances even at maximum speed 1500 rpm. • The thread trimming mechanism helps to produce beautifully finished seam with lesser thread consumption. • Suitable for all kinds of shirts, suits and work uniform. Fig: BUTTON ATTACHING MACHINE WITH AUTO TRIM Page 32

  38. Applications - • To attach button in garment. 10.TWO NEEDLE MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI FIG: Two needle m/c Application: This type of machines is used for decorative purpose. It is specially used for sew woven fabric. 11.ZIGZAG STITCH MACHINE: FIG: Zigzag stitch m/c Page 33

  39. BRAND NAME: JUKI STITCH SYSTEM: STANDERD ZIGZAG STITCH PATTERN: MAX. SEWING SPEED: 5000 stitch/ min. 12.POCKET WELTING /ATTACH MACHINE : Brand name: FIG: Pocket welting m/c It is specially used for sew pockets in coats , blazer and trouser/pant. Sewing speed: 1000- 3000 stitch/min Kind of welts: parallel double welt/ single double welt Sewing length: min 18 – max 220 mm Machine head: 2 needle lock stitch machine Page 34

  40. 13.BLIND STITCH MACHINE: Brand name: ZUSUN Fig: BLIND STITCH MACHINE FEATURES – Blind stitch means stitch is not visible on fabric. It is formed based on chain stitch ( 1 thread) and lock stitch (2 thread). The hem and facing are folded back and caught by the needle. In this machine curved needle is used which penetrate straightly in the fabric. Sewing speed of blind stitch is up to 3000 stitch/min. This machine is used for special purpose. It is used for sew bottom hem. 14.METAL DETECTOR MACHINE: Brand name: BESTA CBS -400- M.A.S To detect metal in the accessories. Page 35

  41. RAW MATERIAL & STORE: Types of Raw Materials: Fabric: Woven , Knit Fabric Accessories: Thread, Button, Zipper, Fuse, Hook, Clip, Elastic, Hanger, Poly, Hang tag, Main Level, Size level, C/O level, Tag pin, Patch level, Price Ticket, Button, etc. Washing Chemical: Necessary raw materials required for stone, Pigment, Acid, bleach & Enzyme Wash These very according to the order of the buyer Sources of Raw Materials: Our Main Sourcing are Raymond , Arvind , Moufung, Lanyan, Shangdong , Atlantic Mills, PT Apac, Suntex, Taksang. We are also doing around 10 % production with heavy twill, Canvas and Corduroy, which we are sourcing from China through our Hong Kong office including all type of trims. We use chemicals from World best reputed chemical suppliers i.e , Garmon Italy, Officiana+29 Italy, TLP Holland, CHT Germany , Dystar Turky ,etc Store: It has big store room within fabric, trimming, accessories, box, readymade garments, contains difference types materials electrical and machinery accessories. Mainly it two sections store are: Technical Store: It contains various types electrical, machinery & materials which supply in many section of garments, such as Page 36

  42. Various types of sewing m/c and their parts Guide Clamp Shuttle carrier Zipper guide Belt Shuttle Feed dog Hand glove spring Folder Knife Bobbin winter Guard Blade Screw Lopper Roller covers Patty Attachments sate Needle Finger Bobbin Pressure feed Rotary hook Bobbin case Fabric &Accessories store: Standard commercial name of fabrics There are many types of standard commercial name of fabric i.e. are bellow Denim, Twill, Rib top, poplin, satin. Sateen, Mesh, Pure coated, Linen, T/C, Nylon, Micro fabric, Polo pique, Polar fleece, Polyester, Canvas, Corduroy, Single jersey etc. FABRIC CONSUMPTION: L*W=RESULT%2.54%36%FABRIC WIDTH FABRIC INSPECTION BEFORE INHOUSE: Different types of fabric defect are shown on the fabric. These defects will be overcome by inspection method. Page 37

  43. Some defects are given below: Foreign fiber, hole, slub / knots, stains / dirts, spot, splice, missing yarn, knitting defect, thick yarn, shading etc. As Paramount has ventured into making a range of fabric inspection machines called Check MASTERS. This machine is used to provide the common fabric defects and inspection methods for checking the fabrics. FIG: FABRIC DEFECT TEST M/C The acceptability level for first quality fabric is usually established by mutual agreement between the buyer and the seller. INSPECTION METHOD: The inspection of fabric has two primary functions; first to classify the products according to the different quality based on the demands of the buyer/market or client and second to provide the information about the quality being produced. During the inspection the fabric may be found to contain different defects. The defects depending on the magnitude, frequency of occurrence, position, importance, effect on the purpose, consequence in the further process etc., shall be classified and graded under various systems. During the inspection, the occurrences of various defects need to be examined and graded based on their magnitude and dimension as per the required system. There are two most common Page 38

  44. types of systems for grading the defects: • 4 – Point System. • 10-Point System. But 4- point system is followed for fabric inspection by making blanket in the ORIENT GROUP. 4 – Point system: It is an inspection method used for the visual checking of fabric quality; faults are scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4 according to the side and significance. The 4-point system, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers‘ Association (AAMA) point-grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and by the Department of Defense in the United States and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC. Shrinkage test: Testing time: After dryer or before compacting. Equipment used: Shrinkage board, shrinkage scale, measurement tape, scissor, washing machine, detergent. Lengthwise shrinkage = (-ve) %. Lengthwise extension = (+ve) %. Test method: ISO 6330:2000. Shrinkage tolerance: ±5%. The fabric is cut according to the shrinkage board. Then the fabric is washed by washing m/c with PCLF for 60 min. at 40. Then the shrinkage% is determined by the shrinkage scale. Note: before in-house fabric inspection and shrinkage test must be done. Page 39

  45. IN HOUSE CONTROL FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT  Fabric accessories  There are many types of fabric accessories are used in garments manufacturing sectors, which are below- Thread, Button, Rivet, Zipper, Fuse, Hook, Clip, Elastic, Hanger, Poly, Hang tag, Main Level, care level, Twill tape, Velcro tape etc. Page 40

  46. FIG: FABRIC ACCESSORIES & TRIMMINGS THREAD CONSUMPTION: Total garments quantity*thread quantity% count wise thread quantity = total cone Others accessories are counted by yards, pcs. Page 41

  47. PRODUCTION PLANNING, SEQUENCES & OPERATION: Swatch Making: Swatch making is more important work garment sector. In line to line m/c to m/c work continue according to swatch card. A card which contains garment making fabric and fabrics accessories such as – threads, buttons, elastics, level, japers e.g. . These types of card are called as swatch card. E.g. in bellow- Swatch card contains following items– • Fabric • Buttons • Threads • Levels • Hocks • Elastics • Zippers, etc. Page 42

  48. GSM check: Before sample making GSM check should be done. The procedure for fabric weight test of finished fabric: M/C used: G.S.M. cutter. Frequency: Every order. Procedure: 3 sample pieces are cut with G.S.M. cutter. Find their average wt. • Gram per square meter (GSM)= Average wt.*100 • Ounce per square meter (oz./yd2)=G.S.M.*0.0296 Performance std.: According to buyer‘s given std. In case of non-conformity: • To increase G.S.M.: Reduce width mechanically. • To decrease G.S.M.: Increase width mechanically Page 43

  49. Sequence of garment manufacturing processes: Page 44

  50. CAD, Pattern & Marker Department: CAD: Computer-aided design (CAD) is the use of computer technology for the design of objects, real or virtual. CAD often involves more than just shapes. As in the manual drafting of technical and engineering drawings, the output of CAD must convey information, such as materials, processes, dimensions, and tolerances, according to application-specific conventions. CAD may be used to design curves and figures in two-dimensional (2D) space; or curves, surfaces, and solids in three-dimensional (3D) objects. Patterns belonging to all models were prepared according to the steps shown below; •Main size pattern preparation, •Grading of main size patterns, •Different sizes separated by copying nest sizes on transparent pattern papers, •Cardboard patterns obtained by transferring these transparent patterns on cardboard. Two methods were applied to obtain the findings in the research, the manual method and the CAD method. These were determined separately for the manual and CAD working method. Either of the two procedures stated below can be followed to work the model with the CAD system: 1- Digitizing the main size patterns after preparing them manually, 2- Preparing from the beginning of the main size patterns using CAD. Two procedures were followed to obtain findings in the research: The stages and procedures for the manual working method are shown in Table 1. Page 45

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