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Mill training report viyellatex dyeing

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Mill training report viyellatex dyeing

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  1. Acknowledgements First of all, our gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah who gave us strength and ability to complete the industrial training and prepare this report; may your name be exalted, honored & glorified. We are highly delighted to express our regards & gratitude to honorable Vice-Chancellor Prof. Dr. Nitai Chandra Sutradhar & Prof. Dr. Md. Zulhash Uddin; Dean, Faculty of Textile Chemical Processing Engineering & Applied Science, for providing us the opportunity to complete our industrial attachment with Viyellatex Group. Our heartiest gratitude to our supervising teacher, Mrs. Sharfun Nahar Arju; Head, Department of Wet Processing Engineering to whom we are extremely indebted for her tremendous support and guidance throughout our training period, without her help it would not have been possible to complete the training successfully. We also take the opportunity to express our sincere thanks to the management, administration & personnel of Viyellatex Group for giving us permission to complete our training period in this industry. We are really grateful to our industrial coordinator Engr. Dewan Mahbub Kamran, Executive Dyeing, Viyellatex Group for his encouragement, inspiration, support, supervision, special care & co-operation during training period. We would also like to thank specially Engr. Faridul Hasan, Executive Dyeing and also Engr. Mr. Mahmud, Engr. Mr. Arif, Engr. Mr. Faisal, Engr. Mr. Fayez for their Cordial Cooperation during the intern period. Above all, we would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all teachers of our university & particularly of Wet Processing Department for their kind inspiration & help, which remain as the backdrop of all our efforts.

  2. Table of Contents S.N. Contents Page No. 1 Introduction 3 2 Project Description 4 3 Manpower Management 11 4 Knitting Section 16 5 Batch Section 27 6 Dyeing Section 30 7 Raw Materials 56 8 Finishing 60 9 Laboratory 75 10 Garments Section 86 11 Printing Section 90 12 Embroidery Section 95 13 Washing Section 96 14 Maintenance 101 15 Utilities 108 16 Effluent Treatment Plant 114 17 Inventory Control 118 18 Costing 120 19 Marketing 124 20 Recommendations 127 21 Conclusion 128

  3. Introduction By means of practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the practical field. For any technical education practical experience is almost equally important in association with the theoretical knowledge. The industrial attachment is the process which builds understanding skill and attitude of the performer, which improves his/her knowledge in boosting productivity and services. Academic education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, despite all these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with the technical support of modern machinery, skill ness about various operation stages. It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, Productivity evaluation, work study, efficiency, industrial management, production planning & control, production cost analysis, inventory management, purchasing, utility & maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. The above mentioned cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere & improve courage & inspiration to take self- responsibility. At Viyellatex Limited, cutting-edge technologies merge seamlessly with human ingenuity and deep seat recommitment to ensure excellence in every stage and area of their activities. From fiber to fabric, Viyellatex Limited is truly integrated undertaking. The Viyellatex Limited has the capability to offer a complete product range for the export textile markets. The goal of Viyellatex Limited is to become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from Bangladesh with highly advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local human resources.

  4. Project description

  5. Project Description Company Name: Viyellatex group ltd. Status: Private Ltd. Company Type: 100% Export oriented composite knit Dyeing Industry. Sponsor: Mr. Rezaul Hasnat. Annual Production Capacity for dyeing: 75000tons Product Mix: x x x x x x x 100% cotton x 100% polyester a) Spun b) Filament Nylon Chief Value Cotton (CVC) Polyester Cotton blend Gray mélange (15% Viscose 85% cotton 10% Viscose 90% cotton 30% Viscose 70% cotton) Ash mélange (1% Viscose 99% cotton) of establishment: 2001 x x x x Year Year of starting production: 2002 Address: x x x Factory:297, Khortoil, Tongi, Gazipur- 1712 Head office: 297, Khortoil, Tongi, Gazipur- 1712 Telephone no. +880-2- 9813001 Fax No. +880-2-9811400 www.viyellatexgroup.com Website: Project cost: 20 million $ for dyeing and finishing in the year 2008. x

  6. Sections of Viyellatex: Dyeing Section Knitting Section Batch Section Yarn Store Dye House Circular Knitting V-bed Knitting Dyeing Machine Finishing Inspection Quality Control Grey Fabric Store Garments Section Maintenance Section Merchandising Mechanical Sample Section Electrical CAD/CAM Section Printing Section Cutting Section Washing Section Sewing Section Embroidery Section Store Section

  7. Location from Dhaka: KAI Alluminim Co.Ltd. Masco Industries Ltd. ViyellaTex FH Fabrics Ltd. SMP Design Pvt. Ltd. Gajipura Dhaka Tongi BoardBazar Dhaka-Mymensingh Highway Physical Infrastructure: Viyellatex Group is a Knit Composite Garments Manufacturer & Exporter, having all state of the art facilities with the annual turnover US$ 106.6 Million (2006-2007). They have different types of Knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by mostly Germany, Japan, Taiwan, China, U.K, U.S.A, Singapore, etc. which are very latest. It has high production where 30 tons of dyed and finished fabrics are produced per day. The production is controlled by technical persons. All of the decision makers of production sector in Viyellatex Group are textiles graduates. All the chemicals and dyes use for dyeing and finishing are well branded. They produce product for their buyer and client coming from international market like U.K, Sweden, Netherland, France, U.S.A, Germany and Spain. Their customer profile is big and top end such as Esprit, M&S, S-Oliver, Puma, G-star, Gap, Tesco and Grew waver etc. They follow all the system for their machines maintenance so production cannot hamper. The mill is built in such a way that there is possibility for further expansion of the mill. The structure such as mill, office buildings, record rooms, guard room etc. are made of solid hard concrete & brick materials. . The whole area is surrounded by safety brick wall .The main set up for m/c‘s are built of corrugated iron & iron sheet, transparent hard plastics with enough ventilation & scope for passing light & air. Dyeing, finishing and knitting section have shade roof. The garments section is in corporate building. The mill has water treatment plant and

  8. effluent treatment plant also.it has a large canteen with facilities for 6000 employer. The mill has official quarter for higher rank officers, which is build the previous year. Vision: To be the most regarded company in Bangladesh by 2015. x Mission: We strive to provide quality services on time, based on best practices for the satisfaction of our Partners & Stakeholders. We foster friendly working environment through open communication and mutual respect. We encourage initiative, innovation and teamwork. Workers welfare and right is our premier focus. We are committed for cleaner and greener environment. We are driven by our responsibility to the society as a Corporate Body. x x Viyellatex Values: x x x x x x Integrity Commitment Customer Satisfaction Innovativeness Fairness Environment Major buyers of Viyellatex Group: PVH S-Oliver Puma Espirit G-Star M&S Ito Yokoda WoolWorths » » » » » » » »

  9. Business Achievement of the Group: x Corporate Social Responsibility Commitments: x x x x x Execute business with transparency and integrity Comply with all legal requirements to conduct business. Emphasizing and rewarding for better job. To become environment friendly as much as possible. Emphasizing on the up-liftment of the community around the company. Focusing on improved service to the customers and stakeholders. x x Social contribution: Green (Environment) initiative: Viyellatex is most renowned environment friendly textile production facility in the world. Our renowned environment initiatives have been well recognized not only by other international business organization but also by World Bank & Asian Development Bank as well. Our few exemplary initiatives: x More than 280000 liters of treated effluent water is being used for 7000 worker‘s toilet flush every day, saving 75M liters of underground water every year. 250000 square feet roof top is being used to collect approx. 45 million liters of rain water which is later used in textile wet processing without utilizing the valuable underground water and saving extra chemicals of water softening. 5 MW gas generator exhaust used in co-generation chiller to support 750 MT of air cooling in the Viyellatex Spinning Mill. Also in the fabric plant, it is planning to use 3MW generator exhaust in the Boiler. Both technology saves substantial energy and reduced carbon emission. Re-condensed steam water is being transported to the boiler feeder tank which increases the temperature by 15-20C, saves hefty energy and minimizes global warming. x x x

  10. x Fabric dryer exhaust is being redirected to air inlet and feed into the burner to reduce the energy consumption. A simple innovative technique which Viyellatex started to use 3 years back and now incorporated by famous GMBH Textile Machine Manufacturer, Bruckner in their latest series of Stenter. Per year approx. 50 Tons of food residue created during lunch of 7000 employees, are being used to develop natural fertilizer and being distributed among the neighboring farmers at free of cost- an initiative which avoids environment pollution and supports the community. Instead of air condition Viyellatex installed Energy Saving Evaporating Cooling System to apparel production floors. Viyellatex is constantly doing projects with International Partners to develop eco- friendly textile products. It did the Carbon foot print project to minimize the carbon emission in the wet processing with the assistance of world recognize company BASF. Became self-reliant in the society & unique return for any business group of Bangladesh. x x x x

  11. Manpower management Viyellatex Group contains a no. of departments and each department is controlled by a chief operating officer. The board of directors maintains control on overall departments. Viyellatex limited possess a strong management system and all the activities are done in efficient way and in a systematic process. x Board of Directors: 1. 2. 3. 4. Mr. K. M. Rezaul Hasanat, Chairman & CEO Mr. Ahasan Kabir Khan, Vice Chairman Mrs. Kaniz Fatema Zareen, Director Amina Salima Khan, Director x Organogram of Viyellatex Group: Chairman & CEO Vice Chairman Group Commercial Group FINANCE Ruthna Tea Estate Group IT FPPL ISML VTG VSL GDL FABRICS Group HR LM&S

  12. x BUs Head of Viyellatex: Mr. Syed Fatemy Ahmed Roomy Director Mr. Md. Masudul Hoque MD & COO, GDL Mr. Md. Abu Haider Rumi MD & COO, FPPL Mr. Arif Bhuiyan COO, Viyellatex Garments Mr. Kazi Monjurul Islam COO, Viyellatex Fabrics Mr. Fateh Ul Islam COO, Interfab Mr. Yakub Ali COO, Ruthna Tea Estate Mr. Md. Sharif Dad Khan DGM, VSL Mr. Kazi Shahidul Karim DGM, Commercial, VG Mr. Ruhul Amin Chowdhury Head of ISS x Organogram of Knitting department: DGM/AGM Manager / Asst. Manager (Store) Manager / Asst. Manager (Prodn & Plan) Manager/Asst. manager Sr. Executive / Executive Sr. Fitter / Fitter Sr. Executive (Prodn, Plan & Sample) Knitting Master/Executive (Flat) Asst. Fitter Jr. Executive (Yarn) Jr. Executive (Grey Fabric) Executive/Jr. Executive (Prodn, Plan & Sample) Sr. Fitter / Fitter Needle man Servicing man Operator/Asst. Operator Store Asst. (Yarn) Store Asst. (Grey Fabric) Sample supervisor Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor Servicing helper Helper Loader (Yarn) Batch Helper/Loade Sample asst. Sr.Operator / Operator Asst. operator Production Helper

  13. x Organogram of dyeing: DGM/AGM Manager Planning Store Washing Production Asst. Manager Asst. Manager Asst. Manager Asst. Manager Sr. Executive/ Executive Sr. Executive/ Executive Sr. Executive/ Executive Sr. Executive/ Executive Jr. Executive Jr. Executive Jr. Executive Jr. Executive Sr. Supervisor/ Supervisor Sr. Supervisor/ Supervisor Sr. Supervisor/ Supervisor Sr. Supervisor/ Supervisor x Organogram of finishing:

  14. Management system: Intercom telephone Fax Written letters & Oral x x x x Shift change: Viyellatex limited maintain three shifts at every day‘s work. So the shifts are changed at every three hours. The shifting times are – A Shift – 06:00 – 14:00 B Shift – 14:00 – 22:00 C Shift – 22:00 – 06:00 General shift & Office time: 09.00 – 18.00 Responsibilities of production officer: To give dyeing program slip. To match production sample with target shade. To collect production sample for sample matching next production. To observe dyed fabric during finishing running & also after finishing. To identify disputed fabrics & report to P.M/G.M for necessary actions. To discuss with P.M. about overall production if necessary. To sign the store requisition & delivery challan in the absence of P.M. Also to execute overall floor works. To maintain loading/unloading khata. Any other assignment given by higher authority. x x x x x x x x x x Job Description of P.O & S.P.O: Job title: Production officer & Senior Production officer Report to: Production Manager Purpose: To control shift according to the plan made by the production manager Territory: Dyeing section (major) Batching and Finishing section (minor) Nature and Scope: Responsible for the production during his own shift with good quality and minimum time. Environment: Production officer has to work under huge stress. He has to work in acute heat under physical and mental pressure. Also he has to work in acute heat all the year round.

  15. Job Description of Production Officer: Report To: Sr. production officer Job Summary: To plan, execute & follows up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities. Duties x x x x x x x & Responsibilities: Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production. Batch preparation & PH check. Dyes & chemical requisition issue & check. Write fabrics loading & loading time from m/c. Program making, sample checking, color management. Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing m/c. And also any other work as & when required by the management. Job Description of Sr. Production Officer: Report To: P.M (production) Job Summary: To plan, execute & follows up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities. Duties & Responsibilities: Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production. Checks the different log books of different areas & report to management. Checks the sensitive parameters of different machine for smooth dyeing. Checks out the plan to control the best output from supervisor & workers. To trained up & motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production. Maintenance of machine & equipment. Any other works & when required by the management. Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing m/c. x x x x x x x

  16. Process flow chart for knitting: Yarn in package form x Place the package yarn in the yarn x Feeding the yarn x Set the machine as per design & GSM x Knitting x Withdraw the roll fabric and weighing x Roll marking x Inspection x Numbering Yarn types: 1. 100% cotton x x x 2. Man made x x 3. Blended x x x PC (Polyester + Cotton) Mélange (Cotton + Viscose) x White/Ecru Mélange (Dyed fiber – 0.2-2.0%) x Grey Mélange (Dyed fiber – 2.0-15.0%) x Anthra Mélange (Dyed fiber – 15.0-30.0%) 4. Regenerated cellulose x Viscose x Modal Carded Combed Rotor Polyester Lycra CVC (Cotton + Polyester) Commonly used yarn count: Carded yarn – 18,20,24,26,30,32,34,36 Ne Combed Yarn – 20,22,24,26,28,30,32,34,36,40 Ne Rotor yarn– 7,10,12,14,16 Ne Polyester yarn – 75,100,150 Denier Lycra yarn– 20,30,40,50,70 Denier x x x x x

  17. Sources of yarn: 1. Cotton (Both Carded & Combed) - Viyellatex Spinning Limited 2. Polyester - Kader Synthetic - China 3. Mélange - Patartoli - Prime - Sohagpur - Thermax 4. Lycra - China - Korea - Taiwan - Japan List of machines: Name of the machine Quantity Single jersey Fleece Double jersey Auto striper (S/J) Auto striper (Rib) Flatbed knitting machine Fabric inspection machine 35 10 19 06 02 25 03 Brands of the machine: Fukuhara Matsuya Mayer & Cie. Keumyong Pai Lung Terrot Uzu x x x x x x x

  18. Specification of different types of machine: Single Jersey machine: Double Jersey machine: Brand name: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Model: PL XS 3B Feeder: 108 Gauge: 24 Diameter: 36‖ No of needle: 2712 Machine speed: Up to 35 rpm Brand name: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Model: PL XRA CE Feeder: 76 Gauge: 18 Diameter: 38‖ No of needle: 2124 Machine speed: Up to 24 rpm Flat Bed Knitting machine: Auto Striper machine: Brand name: Matsuya Origin: Japan Model: M-100 Feeder: 6 Gauge: 14 Head: 2 Bed length: 102‖ Brand name: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Model: PLXD CS 6U Feeder: 54×6c Gauge: 18 Diameter: 36‖ No of needle: 2040 Machine speed: Up to 16 rpm Fabric Inspection machine: Brand: Uzu cloth inspection machine Manufacturer: AATPR Industry Co. Ltd. Model: UZ 900-3 Origin: Thailand Different parts of the machine: 1. Start/Stop/Inch buttons: This set of buttons is used to start/stop/slow running of machine. 2. Ratchet lever: This lever permit the hand movement of the machine. 3. Auto stop motion: Automatic three stages 24v yarn motion, positive feed tapes & knitting zone. Indicator lamps are on individual stop motions & on the main control panel. While the yarn is broken we can find the location which is broken as well as to repair, meanwhile the motor can brake and stop operation at once to keep the security of the machine. 4. Side creel: For each feed, there are two cones of yarn on the creel. 5. Tensioning device: The yarn goes to the feeder of the machine from the creel through different tensioning devices. These devices are used to maintain the proper tension of the yarn. 6. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn. 7. VDQ pulley: This is one of the important parts of the machine. Through VDQ pulley, the GSM of the fabric is controlled. If the value of the VDQ pulley is increased, then the loop

  19. length of the fabric will be less and the GSM of the fabric will be high. Vice versa for make low GSM fabric. 8. Auto counter: Two shift revolution with display counter with predetermined stop, to settle freely the weight or yardage of fabric. 9. Variable speed drive with machine break: Transistor inverter provided for free controlled, the process of ―V.S. motor-drive from slow operation to normal operation is quite & fast brake to prevent damages in case of needles or yarn breakage. 10. Fabric take up system: With variable speed control by a belt drive set canbe adjusted the speed for different course of fabric-constant and uniform fabric tension. ‖ Points should be considered for GSM changing: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. VDQ (Variable Dia. Quality Control) pulley diameter. Yarn count. Machine gauge. Cam position Take up motion Factors that should be considered for changing of fabric design: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Cam arrangement changing. Needle butt setting & needle dropping. Using of different colors in selected feeder. Using of jacquard mechanism. Size of the loop shape Recommended points of buyer: When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows- 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Diameter of the fabric Design of the fabric GSM of the fabric Total wt. of the fabric Yarn count Types of yarn Color of the fabric Finishing of fabric. Handling & fastness property.

  20. End products of the knitting machine: 1. Single Jersey machine: - Plain jersey - Lycra jersey - Single Lacoste - Double Lacoste - Single Pique - Double Pique - Fleece (Three thread) - Terry Fleece (Two thread) 2. Double Jersey machine: - 1×1 Rib - 2×1 Rib - Interlock - Mesh - Flat back Rib - Waffle 3. V-bed knitting machine: - Collar - Cuff - Emboss Production parameters: Machine Diameter Machine rpm (revolutions per minute) No. of feeds or feeders in use Machine Gauge Count of yarn Required time (Machine running time) Machine running efficiency - - - - - - - Production calculation: 1. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency: RPM x No. of Feeder x No. of Needle x SL(mm) x 60 x 12 10 x 2.54 x 36 x 840 x 2.2046 x Yarn count x RPM x No. of Feeder x No. of Needle x SL(mm) 3527.80 x Yarn count x 2. Production/shift in meter: Course / min . Course / cm RPM x No. of Feeder x 60 x 12 x Efficiency x Course / cm x 100 x 3. Fabric width in meter: Total no. of wales Wales / cm x 100 Total no. of Needles knitting x Wales / cm x 100 x

  21. Methods of increasing production: There are few ways of increasing production of the machine – 1. By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased. 2. By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time 3. By using machine of higher gauge: The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge, production can be increased. 4. By imposing automation in the m/c: a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system. b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation. c) Photo electric fabric fault detector. 5. By imposing other developments: a) Using creel-feeding system. b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage. c) Using yarn feed control device. d) Using auto lint removal. Commonly found fabric faults in the Knitting floor: x Needle mark: Appearance: Spot of line is found at wales direction. Causes: x Due to decayed needle. x Due to bended needle. x Due to old needle. Remedies: x Change the needle. x Sinker mark: Appearance: Spot of line is found at wales direction. Causes: x Due to decayed sinker. x Due to faulty adjustment of sinker with sinker cam. Remedies: x Change the sinker. x Make necessary adjustments of sinker with sinker cam as required.

  22. x Hole: Appearance: Hole on the fabric. Causes: x If needle latch is not working properly. x Due to uneven tension. x Due to needle head breakage. x Due to improper cam setting. Remedies: x Change the needle. x Adjust the tension as required. x Adjust cam setting properly. x Loop: Appearance: As like small size holes. Causes: x Due to uneven tension. x If cam box is loose, during the cam box setting. x Any type of problem is occurred in m/c setting. Remedies: x Change the needle & sinker. x Adjust the tension as required. x Baree Mark/Patta: Appearance: Found stripe effect towards the coarse on knit fabric. Causes: x If yarns of different lot are mixing together. x If different counts of yarn are mixing together. Remedies: x Operator should be careful about that different lots of yarn cannot be mix up. x Yarn should be tested before knitting. x Slub: Appearance: A thick place is made in a particular place on fabric surface. Causes: x Due to using of low quality yarn. Remedies: x Yarn quality should be good. x Yarn testing should be done very carefully. x Thick & Thin Place: Appearance: Higher & lower counts of yarn are knitted at a time. Causes: x Due to using of different counts of yarn during knitting. x Due to irregular yarn dia.

  23. Remedies: x Operator should be careful during the operation that for a particular design. x Count of every cone package should be same. x Tension Mark: Appearance: Found spot at wales direction of knit fabric. Causes: x Due to excessive tension in yarn. Remedies: x Tension should be adjusted as required. x Oil Spot: Appearance: Oil spot on fabric surface. Causes: x Due to excessive bleeding of oil in the m/c. x If there is any type of problem in needle & sinker, oil can be bled on the fabric. Remedies: x Change the faulty needle & sinker. x Machine should be cleaned time to time. x Pin Hole: Appearance: Small size of hole as like pin. Causes: x Due to wrong adjustment of cam box. x If the yarn quality is low especially yarn with less strength causes pin hole in the fabric. Remedies: x Make required adjustment of cam box. x Use high quality yarn. x Lycra Out: Appearance: A Lycra yarn is missing at vertical direction. Causes: x If Lycra yarn missed or breakage happened. Remedies: x Operator should be more cautious to make necessary adjustment or replacement or joining the yarn. x Lycra Drop: Appearance: Tension caused in Lycra out. Causes: x Due to excessive tension on Lycra yarn when knitted (within its tolerance limit). Remedies: x Make necessary adjustments to the tension of Lycra yarn.

  24. x Set Off: Appearance: Found loop gap on knit fabric. Causes: x Set off occurred when needle & sinker both inactive simultaneously in the process of knitting. Remedies: x Machine should be stopped as early as possible. Remarks: Grey fabrics from knitting are used in dyeing. So the quality of the fabrics should be good so that there are no faults found for knitting of fabric after dyeing process. Also the GSM and diameter of the fabric should meet the requirements.

  25. Batching: Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order. In other words— Batching means separation of fabric according to specification, Dyeing machine capacity & availability, urgency of the order. Batch contains body of garments as well as collar-cuffs according to the design. Types of Batching: 1. Solid 2. Assorted Batch Quantity = Total required quantity X Dia Quantity/ Total quantity Batch Ratio = Total batch quantity + total parts/ Batch Quantity Batch distribution: x x x Lycra fabrics are slit-cut to heat-set. That‘s why before dyeing they need to re-sewn. This is done by ‗Bag-sewing‘ machine. Tubular fabrics are turned into their backside by turning machine. x Batch is distributed according to nozzle capacity. During distribution maximum equilibrium of different parts is taken into consideration. Function or Purpose of Batch Section: To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source. Turn the grey fabric if required. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria – x Order sheet (Received from buyer) x Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) x M/C capacity x M/C available x Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) x Emergency To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. To keep records for every previous dyeing. - - - - - Proper batching criteria: To To To To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c. minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time. keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade. use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade. x x x x Batch management: Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Sometime planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.

  26. Machines used in Batching: 1. Bag Sewing machine: There are total 2 sewing machines— Brand: Juki, Model: G39/0141 Power: 10A, 230V Type: 2 Needle 2 Looper chain stitches. 1 Needle 2 looper in use. Origin: Japan Brand: Pegasus, Model: M7S2-181 Specification: 2 Needle 4 Loopers. 1 Needle 2 Looper in use Device: BT/88 Origin: Japan 2. Turning machine: There are two turning machines also. Both of them have same specification. Brand Name M/c Speed Model Max up clothing Company Origin : Taida : 300-500m/min : DF 200 : 150 kg : Shandong Taida Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Co. Ltd. : China 3. Light box: Brand: Verivide Model: CAC60 No. of light sources: 4, TL84, D65, F, UV Serial no.: E 614506 Manufacturing year: 2002 Power: 220-230V, 270W Origin: England

  27. Layout plan of dyeing floor Number of machine: Turning machine: 02 Bulk dyeing machine: 15 Sample dyeing machine: There are two brands of dyeing machine used in Viyellatex. They are: 1. Fong‘s 2. Thies Fong‘s machines are from China and Thies machines are from Germany.

  28. Number of Fong‘s Machine: Bulk machine: 10 Sample machine: 6 Total number of Thies machine: Bulk machine: 5 Sample machine: 1 Total length of dyeing floor: 412 feet Total width of dyeing floor: 34 feet Area of the dyeing floor: 412×34 = 14008 square feet. Production per day: • • • Maximum Loading capacity 100% (11.36 tons) Possible maximum loading 80% (9.088 tons) Total production per days (3 shifts) = 9.088 x 2.5 (considering 2.5 batch in 3 shifts) = 22.72 tons. Bulk machine specification Maxm temp 0C Maxm Pressure Dimension KPa(inch) M/C No. Year of Mfg. No. of Nozzle Brand Model Origin Capacity Kg 1 Fong‘s ECO 38 2T 2003 China 500 2 140 380 12×18 2 Thies Farbavessel ECOSOFTPLUS Farbavessel ECOSOFTPLUS 2004 Germany 1000 4 140 550 20×18 3 Thies 2003 Germany 1000 4 140 550 20×18 4 Thies Farbavessel ECOSOFTPLUS Farbavessel ECOSOFTPLUS Farbavessel ECOSOFTPLUS ECO 61T 2002 Germany 250 1 140 550 12×18 5 Thies 2002 Germany 500 2 140 550 14×18 6 Thies 2002 Germany 750 3 140 550 16×18 7 Fong‘s 2005 China 200 1 140 380 9×18 8 Fong‘s ECO 61T 2005 China 250 1 140 380 9×18 9 Fong‘s ECO 61T 2005 China 750 3 140 380 20×18 10 Fong‘s HSJ-4T 2007 China 1120 4 140 350 21×18 11 Fong‘s HSJ-3T 2007 China 840 3 140 350 18×18 12 Fong‘s HSJ-SR-2T 2007 China 560 2 140 350 15×18 13 Fong‘s HSJ-SR-6T 2007 China 1680 6 140 350 33×18 14 Fong‘s HSJ-SR 2007 China 840 3 140 350 18×18 15 Fong‘s HSJ-SR 2007 China 1120 4 140 350 24×18

  29. Sample machine specification M/C No. Year of Mfg. Maximum Maximum Temp.Pressure 0CKPa 140400 Dimension (Inch) Brand Model Origin Capacity Kg 25 1 Fong‘s ALLFIT-30 2003 China 9×13 2 Thies N/A 2002 Germany 25 140 350 6×13 3 Fong‘s ALLFIT-30 2005 China 30 140 400 3.5×11 4 Fong‘s ALLFIT-30 2005 China 120 140 400 6×16 5 Fong‘s ALLFIT-30 2006 China 30 140 350 4×11 6 Fong‘s ALLFIT-30 2007 China 60 140 350 4×15 7 Fong‘s ALLFIT-30 2007 China 60 140 350 4×15 MACHINE DESCRIPTION Technology of the dyeing machine: Viyellatex dyeing unit used special types of dyeing machine. In these machine, the Jet and Winch technology is combined i.e. during dyeing, dye liquor circulate through the machine like jet dyeing machine also the fabric is circulated through the winch as like winch dyeing machine. This combination is made for better dyeing of the fabric. Main parts of dyeing machine: The main parts of the dyeing machine are- 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Main tank Reserve tank/PT tank Additional/Mixing tank Main pump Heat exchanger Filter

  30. The description of the main parts of the machine is as follows – Main tank: Main tank is the largest part of the dyeing machine. This is the main dye bath which contains the dye liquor & the fabric. The size of the tank depends on the capacity of the machine. Liquor & fabric circulates in the main tank during dyeing process. There may have different number of nozzle connected to main tank according to the machine capacity. Each nozzle may handle 300- 900m of fabric. Fig: Main Tank Reserve/PT tank: This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that will be used for the dyeing of fabric. The temperature of water in the P.T. tank is maximum 800C. By using this hot water in the machine during dyeing there is a reduction of time for heating the water in the main tank which results in the reduction of total dyeing time.

  31. Additional/Mixing tank: This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that will be used for the dyeing of fabric. The temperature of water in the P.T. tank is maximum 800C. By using this hot water in the machine during dyeing there is a reduction of time for heating the water in the main tank which results in the reduction of total dyeing time. Fig: Mixing tank Main pump: This is one of the essential parts of the dyeing machine. This is used for displacing of dye bath liquor causing a flow from main tank to heat exchanger through filter. That means the pump ensures the liquor circulation throughout the dyeing process. Heat exchanger: During the different stage of dyeing (also pre-treatment, after-treatment), there is a need of increasing or decreasing the temperature of dye liquor gradually. We cannot use liquor of required final temperature directly because there may be possibilities of thermal shocking of the fabric. So, the temperature should be increased or decreased in a controlled manner. This controlling is done by heat exchanger. Actually it is an indirect heater. During the circulation of dye bath liquor, the liquor passes through the heat exchanger. Mechanism of Heat-exchanger: 1. Heat-exchanger consists of no. of tubes surrounded by a shell body. 2. Two fluids of different temperature flow through the heat exchanger. The fluids can be either gas or liquid on either the shell side or the tube side. 3. One flows through the tube other flows through the shell. 4. The temperature of the two fluids is different, so transfer of heat occurs from one fluid to another through shell.

  32. Figure: Mechanism of Heat exchanger Figure: Heat exchanger 5. The fluids which flow through the tubes come in and pass out from the heat-exchanger on the same side. On the other hand the fluid used in shell comes in and pass out from the different side of the shell. Filter: During the treatment of fabric in the machine, lots of lose fiber is produced from the fabric. To eliminate these lose fibers, filter is used. It also reduces the lose fibers loads from the fabric. If the lose fibers are not eliminated, then the running of fabric is disturbed & entanglement can be occurred. Ways of Liquor Flow from Additional Tank: Liquor from additional tank flow to the main tank is mainly done in two ways. They are – 1. Inject: In this system, all amounts of liquor flows directly to the main tank at a time. This is done when the chemicals need to pass at short time. This system ensures high rate of flow of the liquid. 2. Dosing: In this system, the liquor does not pass to the main tank at a time. There are few chemicals which have very severe action to the fabric if it flows directly like sodium hydroxide (NaOH). These chemicals pass to the main tank in an increasing or decreasing way with time so that the harsh effect of these chemicals is minimized. There are three 3. types of dosing: Linear Dosing - Progressive Dosing - Decreasive Dosing -

  33. Linear dosing Progressive dosing Decreasive dosing Liquor circulation system: During the treatment of fabric, the liquor is circulated throughout the machine. At first, the required amount of liquor is taken in the main tank. Then the liquor goes to the filter through pump and then it goes to the heat-exchanger. From the heat-exchanger, the liquor goes to the main tank through nozzle. The schematic diagram of liquor circulation system is given below- Figure: Liquor circulation system Types of machine according to temperature: x x Atmospheric machine High temperature machine

  34. There are one atmospheric machine of Fong‘s brand in Viyellatex. Others are high temperature machine (both Fong‘s and Thies). Also there are special types of high temperature machine used in Viyellatex named as Fong‘s High Speed Jumbo (HSJ) Machine. Features of Fong‘s atmospheric machine: The machine is designed for pre-treatment, dyeing & after-treatment under atmospheric condition. Nozzle is sized for smooth passing through by the fabric and extensive exchange with the liquid. Two standard nozzle sizes with sufficiently large diameter are available. Circulation pump is sized for heavy fabric Production capacity: 500 kg maximum per batch. Maximum temperature: 98o C. Maximum pressure: 1 atm. x x x x x x x Figure: Fong‘s atmospheric machine Features of high temperature machine (Both Thies & Fong‘s): x The machine is designed for the pretreatment, dyeing and after treatment which can provide temperature up to 1400C. Nozzle lead gets interlocked after temperature exceeds 800C. Loading per nozzle 250kg Design pressure: 350-550kpa Design Temp : 1400C Hydraulic Test Pressure: 585Kpa Manufacturer: Germany (Thies), China (Fong‘s) No of nozzles: 1-8. x x x x x x x

  35. Figure: High temperature machine Features of Fong‘s High Speed Jumbo (HSJ) machine: x Variable Loading (VL) storage chamber design gives extra capacity to carry loading up to 280 kg per tube Heat Exchanger of extreme efficiency gives the largest heating rate with minimum heat loss to the environment Multi Saving Rinsing System (MSR) shortens the dye cycle and reduces the water consumption Advanced Intelligent Rinsing System (MIR) controls the rinsing water consumption and shortens the rinsing process Highly optimized machine structure reaches the lowest possible liquor ratio of 1:4.5 to run the machine. Dissolution pumps for proper circulation of liquor. safety valve test:350kpa Maximum fabric speed: 400 m/min. Maximum working temperature: 140 °C x x x x x x x x Figure: Fong‘s high speed jumbo machine

  36. Some additional features of Fong‘s HSJ machine: There are few additional features of Fong‘s HSJ machine which gives more productivity, better control and less stoppage times of the machine. These are – x x x x Dissolution Pump Variable Loading Chamber MIR Rinsing System MSR Rinsing System Dissolution pump: x Dissolution pump makes the chemical concentration (salt, soda, dye, auxiliaries) low before passing it to the main tank from additional tank. This concentration is reduced in 1:4 ratios (liquor from additional tank: liquor from main tank). As a result rate of chemical dosing become slow which gives better fixation. Thus better color yield and even dyeing can obtain. x x x Figure: Dissolution pump Variable Loading Chamber: This is one of the advanced techniques of space utilization of the round shaped dyeing machine. Experiment shows that the volume of the chamber can be increased per nozzle up to 30 Kg of fabric depending upon the linear density of the fabric. Few advantages of variable loading chamber are – x x x Better alignment of the fabric. More loading facility. Less entanglement of the fabric.

  37. Linear Density Variable chamber setting Up to 350 g/m 0% Up to 350-450 g/m 50% Above 450 g/m 100% Figure: Schematic diagram of Variable Loading Chamber MIR Rinsing System: x x If the temperature is below 80°C It is a Low Level Continuous Rinsing Shorten Rinsing time. Save Rinsing Water. Fill and Drain at the same time at low level. Multi-function intelligent rinsing system. x x Figure: MIR Rinsing System

  38. MSR Rinsing System: x x x x Multi- saving rinsing system. If the temperature above 80°C it is Combined cooling and Rinsing at high temperature. Save Steam in Hot Rinsing. Rinsing efficiency at higher temperature is faster, so rinsing time is shortened. Comparison between Fong‘s and Thies dyeing machine: Fong‘s Thies Such facilities are not present. Have heat-exchanger for preparation tank. Liquor pass through the filter & heat- exchanger Have dissolution pump for mixing chemical in 1:4 ratio. Horizontal heat-exchanger. Filter and heat-exchanger are separate. Not present. Vertical heat-exchanger. Two additional tank. One additional tank. Variable loading chamber. Not present. Loading per nozzle 280 kg (HSJ). Loading per nozzle 250 kg Winch speed can be above 450 m/min. Up to 350 m/min. Calculation of Winch Speed: Let, Fabric weight = 1000kg Per nozzle fabric weight =250kg Fabric Diameter (open) = 56 inch Cycle time or Dwell time = 2.5-3.0 m per minute G.S.M =180 We know, GSM = gram / meter2 = gram / (Length × Diameter) Or, Length = gram / (GSM × Diameter) = (250×1000×100) / (56×2.54×180) = 976 meters. So, Winch or Reel Speed = Per nozzle Fabric length / Cycle time = 976 / 3 meter/minute = 325 meter/minute. Calculation of Linear Density: Linear Density = (Diameter×GSM×2.54) / 100 gram/meter

  39. Production planning and sequence of operation: Dyeing process flow chart: Grey fabric receive from knitting section ↓ Batching ↓ Turning of fabric (only for Single Jersey) ↓ Selection machine no ↓ Fabric loading ↓ Select production program ↓ Select recipe for dyeing ↓ Pretreatment ↓ Dyeing ↓ After treatment ↓ Fabric Unload Production Parameters: 1) PH - Salt PH – 7-8 H - Scouring P – 12.5 - During reactive dyeing PH 10.5-11.5 H - During H2O2 bleaching P 10.5-11 - During disperse dyeing PH 4.5-6.0 H - Enzyme P – 4.5 - Softener PH – 6.5 - Before dyeing (Leveling) P – 6.5H 2) Temperature: -For cotton fabric scouring: 105ºC x During NaOH addition 65oC x During H2O2 addition 70oC x Peroxide killing at 80oC - Sequestering at 90oC - Bio-polishing at 55oC - Migration for turquoise color at – 90oC - Optical brightening agent (OBA) at – 80oC - Polyester dying: 1000-1300C - Softener at – 45oC - For cotton dyeing: x Low brand – 45oC x Medium brand - 600C x Hot brand – 80oC

  40. 3) Time: - For white fabric 4-5hrs - For 100% cotton 8-10hrs - For 100% polyester 5hrs - CVC 2 parts 13-14 hrs. 4) M: L ratio: - For reactive dyeing M: L ratio maintained between 1:6 Pretreatment process: Typical recipe for scouring: (all in g/l) Felson NOF – 0.7 Kapazon H53 – 0.5 Caustic – 2 H2O2 – 2.5 Recorit wez/Peroxide killer – 0.75 Acetic acid – 0.8 Biopolish B-11 – 1.5 Securon 540 – 0.5 Pretreatment flow chart Fresh water and fabric Load at 45oC x Temperature raise to 60oC x Detergent, Peroxide Stabilizer inject x Run for 5 min x Inject Caustic and run 5 min x Raise temperature to 70oC x H2O2 inject and run 5 min x Temperature raise to 105oC x Run for 30 min x Lower the temperature to 80oC x Bath drain x Peroxide killer inject and run 10 min x Rinsing and unload the fabric.

  41. Curve for scouring of fabric: Types of shade: Light Medium Dark White x x x x Dyeing process Isothermal dyeing Migration dyeing

  42. Isothermal Dyeing evel in at 60 C ↓ Color dosing 60˚C x 35 ( linear dosing) ↓ Run time 60˚C x 15ʹ ↓ Salt dissolving 15 (recirculation process) ʹ ↓ Run 15ʹ ↓ Soda dosing for 50 ( 70% progressive) ʹ ↓ Check the sample after 10ʹ ʹ Migration Dyeing evel in at 60 C ↓ Color dosing for 35ʹ ↓ Run time 10ʹ ↓ Salt dissolving 15 min ↓ Run time 10ʹ ↓ Temperature rise at 80oC ↓ Run time 20 ʹ ↓ Temperature drop at 60oC Order of Color and Salt dissolving/dosing: x In case of 0-1.0 % (light) shade color is dosed first then salt dissolving is performed. x In case of 1-2.5% (medium) shade salt is dissolved at first then color is dosing. x In case of 3 & above % (dark) shade salt is dissolved at first then color is dosing. Dyeing procedure for dark shade: (Black) Typical recipe: (all in g/l) A41/Leveling agent – 0.5 RS Yell 3RFN – 0.424 % RS Red 3BFN – 0.21 % RS Black EDGH – 9.27 % Salt – 90 Soda ash – 5 Caustic – 1.75

  43. Process Flow Chart Fresh Water taken at 60oC ↓ Inject Leveling agent and keep for 7 min ↓ Salt dosing 20 min & runtime 20 min ↓ Color dosing 35 min and run for 15 min ↓ Soda dosing for 30 min (70% progressive) and run 10 min ↓ Caustic dosing for 25 min and run 20 min ↓ Sample check after 10 min ↓ Wash and unload. Curve for black shade (dark) cotton dyeing Dyeing procedure for Light/Medium Shade: Typical recipe: SV/Sequestering agent – 1.5 g/l ADM/Leveling agent – 1 g/l R Yell RR – 0.106 % R BR Blue R (SPL) – 0.172 % Salt – 24 g/l Soda ash – 8 g/l

  44. Flow Chart: Fabric load and then Water taken Rise temperature to 60oC PH control to 6.5 Inject leveling agent and run for 10 min Color dosing for 45 min + add ½ SV Run the bath 10 min Other ½ SV inject and run 20 min ½ Salt add and run 10 min Extra ½ Salt addition and run for 20 min Soda dosing for 60 min After 10 min Sample check Rinsing and unloading Curve for Cotton part Dyeing

  45. Production flow chart for white shade: Typical recipe: (all measurement in g/l) Felson NOF – 0.5 Kapazon H53 – 0.5 Caustic – 2.5 H2O2 – 6 4BK/Whitening agent – 0.15 Acetic acid – 1 Biopolish B-11 – 1.5 Securon-540 – 0.5 FPG/Softener– 1.5 Process flow chart Detergent, Peroxide stabilizer added at 600C x Fabric load and run for 5 min x Caustic dosing for 5 min at 600C x Temperature rasied to 70oC x Peroxide added and raise temperature to 80oC x Optical brightening agrnt dosing for 10 min and temperature raise to 105oC x Run for 50 min and lower temperature to 80oC x Bath drain and water taken at 80oC x Rinsing for 10 min then bath drain x Fresh water taken and Acetic acid at 60oC x Run for 10 min then again drain the bath x oAcetic acid at 55 C and PH control to 4.5 x Enzyme is added and run for 50 min at 55oC x Bath drain and fresh water at 60oC x Inject Sequestering agent and temperature raise to 90oC x Run 10 min and add Softener, againg run 20 min x Fabric unload

  46. Curve for White shade Dyeing of 100% Polyester Typical recipe : Antifoaming agent – 0.15 g/l T Yellow W-4G – 0.0012826 % DIA BR Red SF – 0.1333904 % T Blue WBLS – 0.00153912 % AB-45 – 0.5 g/l Process Flow Chart : Fabric Load x Water Level – As Required x Raise temp to 600C x Add Felson NOF x 0Raise temp.to 90 C & run time 10 min x Bath drain x Water in x Raise temperature to 450C x Add acetic acid & runtime 10 min x Bath drain x Water taking x Raise temperature to 450C x Dye dosing for 10 min

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