Samsung Home Appliance 2012 REDO Prevention & Troubleshooting - Refrigerator -

This information is published for informational purposes only and intended for use by personnel qualified for the specific tasks depicted. Qualified personnel are those who, based on their training and experience, are capable of identifying risks and avoiding potential hazards when handling or servicing a product. Only qualified personnel should repair products powered by electricity. Any attempt to handle, service or repair the product or products by anyone other than qualified personnel could result in serious injury or death. You agree that your use of and reliance on this information is at your sole risk. This information is subject to change or update without notice. There are no warranties, either expressed or implied, regarding the accuracy or completeness of this information. © 2012 Samsung Electronics America, Inc. Samsung is a registered trademark of Samsung Electronics Co. Ltd. All other brand, product, service names and Logos are trademarks and/or registered trademarks of their respective manufacturers and/or owners.

REDO Prevention

How Does a Redo Occur? Examples of how REDO’s occur: Improperly identifying the original symptom Insufficient testing after service Improper service procedure Intermittent failures Improper claim submission If the defect is not evident, guessing on the repair.

How Does a Redo Occur? Examples of how REDO’s occur: Performing adjustments or alignments that are not required. Installing parts without actually observing the defect symptom Many techs get their idea of what’s wrong via 2nd hand conversation, bring the wrong parts and put them in figuring doing something is better than nothing. This is a bad practice. Improper installation of the part or wrong version used

Preventing REDO’s Talk to the Consumer if possible, don’t trust the symptom on the work order The Diagnostic and Forced Modes are the most valuable troubleshooting tool you have for diagnosing a refrigerator. When you are at the product this MUST be the first test you should do. Removing power will erase Defrost Error Codes until the next defrost cycle starts in 4-6 hours. Whenever a Samsung refrigerator is powered up it performs a Self Diagnosis system check. If an open or shorted sensoris detected it will lock the display and flash the code in the display. The refrigerator may have no operation, or operate in the emergency mode. Other faults detected will not lock the display or stop operation. To restart operation put into Manual Diagnostic Mode. Sensors that change value, but are not shorted or open, will not trigger an error code.

Preventing REDO’s Spend time after the repair burning the part in (at least 20 minutes). Talk to the customer and make sure they are satisfied with the repair (not going to call back after you leave). Give the customer the technician’s cell phone number, a quick call while the technician is in the area could prevent a second trip.

Preventing REDO’s If you are 99% sure that one of two possible parts will repair the unit, change both parts. However, this is not normal service procedure. An extra 5 minutes spent ensuring that the cables are dressed and connected properly might prevent a future problem

“Fixing” the Customer or some ways to leave the customer feeling good about the repair

Stainless Steel Cleaning Processes All cleaning products which are identified as safe for cleaning stainless steel must be used properly. Directions on labels must be followed. One common instruction for all cleaning methods is to “follow the grain” of the finish. Examples are shown here: Vertical Grain Horizontal Grain

Stainless Steel Cleaning Processes Stainless Steel Wipes are available in various types of packaging and are effective as a good one-step process. Simply take the wipe and clean the appliance with a back and forth motion, following the grain. Stainless Steel Spray Cleaner and Polish is another one-step method. Spray the cleaner on the appliance and wipe with a soft cloth with the grain. Stainless Steel Spray Cleaner and Protectantrequires a two step process, whereby the spray is applied and wiped with a clean cloth, then dried and buffed with another dry cloth.

Stainless Steel Cleaning Processes Industrial Type Cleaning Agent (WD40) is effective as a cleaner. Again, just spray and wipe with a clean cloth. Be aware this product has an objectionable odor. Powdered polishing cleaner (Barkeepers Friend). This product seemed to make the most mess and was the hardest to remove, but it is a good product to remove rust stains. Directions call for shaking the powder onto a wet cloth, then applying it to the surface and wiping it off immediately with another wet cloth, then dry with another clean cloth. Regular Household Spray Cleaner. Fantastik Heavy Duty cleaner can be used to achieve great results. Spray it on and wipe it off with a paper towel or clean cloth. No drying or buffing necessary.

A Touch of Class Service Additional tips to please the customer after the repair is complete leaving them satisfied that the repair will last and the tech cares about their product Level the Refrigerator. Make sure the doors are even and close properly. Check that there are no error codes occurring by entering the diagnostic mode. Make sure the refrigerator is cooling in all compartments. Purge the water system of air. Empty and clean the water catch tray under the dispenser. Clean fingerprints and smudges from the doors, handles and shelves.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Intermittent Frost or Ice Buildup Inspect the wiring harness at the PC Board and behind the evaporator cover The temperature extremes can cause the Molex connectors to expand and contract causing intermittent connections Moisture can cause oxidization and therefore intermittent contact in the connector

Intermittent Frost or Ice Buildup Test the voltage of the defrost sensors at the PC Board The sensor should read between 3.4 – 3.8VDC at normal freezer temperature, 2.4 to 2.8VDC for the fridge If the Temperature or Defrost sensors are out of range replace both compartment sensors. OPEN > 100kΩ SHORT < 2kΩ

Intermittent Frost or Ice Buildup Blockage in the drain Check the drain to be sure water is able to flow out of the compartment. Check the defrost heater is in contact with the drain. Air leak Check the drain and liner to be sure warm air is not leaking into the compartment from an opening, especially behind the evaporator cover or evaporator Check to ensure the unit is level and the doors close automatically and tightly

Intermittent No Cool with an Error Displayed The flashing segment indicates an open or shorted component was detected after a power failure If possible ask the customer which segment was blinking, compare that information to the diagnostic chart in the service manual Inspect the wiring harness at the PC Board and behind the evaporator cover The temperature extremes can cause the Molex connectors to expand and contract causing intermittent connections, especially the freezer circuitry

Noise Complaints Put the unit into forced compressor mode to turn on the compressor and fans Use the self test button to cycle the icemaker Ask the customer to identify which is making the noise Check the wiring bundles near the fans Check the coolant pipes in the machine compartment

Over Cooling the Refrigerator This can happen intermittently on side by side models with single evaporators Check the damper assembly for smooth operations (RS models only) Check the freezer temperature and defrost sensors (Both)Since there is only one evaporator a freezer temperature error may cause the fridge to ice over

The Forced Mode as a Troubleshooting Tool Forced Compressor (FF) Mode The compressor (AC or Inverter) is started without the 5 to 7 minute delay. All fans will be turned on in this mode. The door switches still control the fan operation. (Fridge fan is still controlled by the compartment temperature sensor) For Inverter Compressors, all 3 speeds (FF1, FF2, FF3) can be selected and check all fans, current draw or compressor control voltage in the Forced Operation. For the late 2010 and later inverter compressor models, there is only one speed check.

The Forced Mode as a Troubleshooting Tool Forced Defrost Mode: AC Compressor The Fridge (Rd) defrost heater can be activated. You can check the Fridge heater current draw or defrost voltage at the main PCB in this mode. All defrost function You can check all of the (FD) defrost heater current draw or all defrost voltages in this mode. Inverter Compressors only You can check all (FD) defrost heater current draw or all defrost voltages in this mode.

The Forced Mode as a Troubleshooting Tool Forced Defrost Operation AC compressor models will activate the Fridge defrost, or both the Fridge and Freezer defrost at the same time. Inverter compressor models prior to late 2010 and 2011 models will activate all heaters at once. Late 2010 and all 2011 inverter compressor models will turn the fridge heater on first and then both fridge and freezer heaters as on the older AC models. In the Forced Defrost Mode the defrost sensor still controls the heater operation. When defrost is activated the main PCB will turn over defrost control to the sensor in about 90 seconds. If the defrost sensor reads a temperature above the shut off point it will tell the main PCB to turn off the defrost voltage. Even when the defrost is turned off the unit will stay in the forced mode for up to 24 hours.

Troubleshooting the TDM Valve If it fails in the full system mode, it should work properly, using slightly more energy, possibly cooling fridge a little too much. For testing, set fridge temp warmer than the actual temp, monitor the defrost sensor(s) to see if voltage drops. If it fails in the Freezer evaporator loop only mode, there will be a Fridge no cool symptom Force on the Fridge with the “Power Cool” option. Monitor the Fridge evaporator(s) temp by using the Defrost Sensor(s). If the temp doesn’t decrease, then suspect the Main PCB is not supplying signal to switch the diverter valve.

Troubleshooting the TDM Valve Voltage Check PIN 1 to 2/3/4/5 = ~40 Ω PIN 2-5 or 3-4 = ~80 Ω

Sensors Control Everything The Sensors provide accurate control of the temperatures at various locations in the refrigerator, up to 12 depending on the model. Samsung Refrigerators always do a Self Diagnostic Check on power up. Open or Shorted Sensors will prevent the unit from functioning at this time. Compartment temperature sensor might = 2 or 4 Cool Zone Drawer/Cool select Pantry = 1 Ice Production I/M Sensor = 1 Ice Room Sensor = 1 Ambient Sensor – Condenser Fan control = 1 There is a defrost sensor on each evaporator in all Samsung refrigerators. Depending on the model there may be as many as 1, 2, or 4 in the refrigerator.

Compartment Temperature Sensor Testing To show actual temps on older models, after checking Fault Codes, power off & on. The display will show actual compartment temperature for a short time, check the actual temperature at the top rear of the compartment and compare readings. Newer models, press temp pad and the set temp displays, then the actual temp displays before going blank. Note: A defective sensor may check OK at room temperature, test at operating temperatures only.

Temperature Sensor Troubleshooting 5oF 41oF 100.4oF 5.0 kΩ @ 77oF Temperature 25.6 k 10.8 kΩ 3.2 kΩ Resistance 3.59VDC 2.59VDC 1.21VDC Voltage Room Temperature Resistance Samsung refrigerator temperature sensors will have a resistance of approximately 5kΩ when exposed to a temperature of 77oF (room temperature) The sensor may be tested outside of the compartment with a multi-meter to verify its functionality A more accurate way of testing a sensor, is to test its voltage right at the Main PCB while the refrigerator is operating (refer to Temp/Resistance/Voltage chart)

Sensors - Door Switch To Mold I/M When door is open 5vdc CN50 – 7 (gnd) CN76 - 1 CN76 - 1

Testing Defrost Circuits Access the main PCB for voltage/resistance testing With the compressor running test the sensors Enter Forced Mode Defrost Measure the heater voltage Remove the power and heater connector and check the heater circuit resistance Defrost Sensor The sensor shuts off heater At 50℉ in Freezer, 63℉ in Fridge If the sensor is bad it may shut off the defrost circuit in a few minutes or not start, causing ice build-up, or it could lock up in defrost mode and become a total no cool. Note: A defective sensor may check OK at room temperature, test at operating temperature only.

Defrosting Troubleshooting Part 1 Defrost Sensors: Testing: Check the DC voltage across both evaporator defrost sensors, with the compressor running. They should read less than a tenth of a volt difference, as they are both on the same refrigerant line. They usually read ~ 3.7VDC, after the compressor has been running for about 10 minutes. You may find one reading about 30 to 50 degrees off (lower voltage = higher temp), if so replace it. Alternate Sensor Testing Make ice slurry. To do this, fill a cup with ice (preferably crushed), then add water and a teaspoon of salt to make a slush. Mix thoroughly and allow to sit for 2 to 3 minutes. This will give you a 32℉ reference. Lower the sensor into the mixture and leave for about 1 minute, check the resistance. It should be very close to 13,300 Ω. Before reinstalling the sensor, be sure to rinse it with fresh water and dry it.

Defrosting Troubleshooting Part 2 Defrost Heaters: Enter the Forced Mode per instructions Check heater circuit amperage at the Main PCB or A/C line; look for ~1.2 amps for the Fridge and ~2.2 amps for the freezer or 3.4 amps total. Check the fast track manual for current specifications on the model under repair. NOTE: If compartment is warm, you only have about 90 seconds to test. Freezer - Check the service or fast track manual for connector and wire color code for the model being serviced. Fridge - Check the service or fast track manual for connector and wire color code for the model being serviced. Low Current draw? Check individual defrost circuits, if one is low check for open defrost heater No Current draw? Check voltages and resistances next.

Defrosting Troubleshooting Part 3 Enter the Forced Mode per instructions Check the heater circuit voltage at the Main PCB; should be 120VAC for Freezer and Fridge. NOTE: If compartment is warm, you only have about 90 seconds to test. Listen for the relay closing then check the heaters. Freezer Defrost Heater - Check the service or fast track manual for connector and wire color code for the model being serviced. Fridge Defrost Heater - Check the service or fast track manual for connector and wire color code for the model being serviced. No AC Voltage? Change Main PCB

Defrosting Troubleshooting Part 4 Heater circuit resistance - Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the defrost heater connector from the main PCB. Freezer - Check heater circuit resistance at the Main PCB, look for 35–50 Ω average. Fridge - Check heater circuit resistance at the Main PCB, look for 60-95 Ω average. Freezer & Fridge - If resistance is around 2600 Ω, Thermo-Fuse (Bi-metal) is good, Defrost heater is open. Open Circuit - Check the Thermal Fuse (Bi-metal), Heater and Connectors NOTE: These values will vary depending on the model. Always use the proper Fast Track manual.

Defrosting Troubleshooting Example of a 2600 Ω heater

Heater Resistances Heater part of Evap Coil Pins 7-9 = 2,600Ω What’s Wrong Pins 7-9 = ∞What’s Wrong 50Ω 400Ω 90Ω 2,600Ω

Defrost Error Symptoms NOTE: Evaporator covers may break if removed while frozen as they are plastic, replace if damaged. Ice buildup in either the freezer or refrigerator compartment can be caused by a blocked drain. It is possible that the drain is not being defrosted by the heaters enough to properly clear the drain and pass the melted water into the catch pan. Noise from the refrigerator/freezer fan or weak cooling.Noise disappears when the customer opens door.The defrost sensor, heater, thermal fuse/bimetal device are OK but ice is built up in the drain area of evaporator cover.

Defrosting Error Causes The heat from the defrost heater does not transfer to the evaporator drain The Styrofoam around the evaporator cover absorbs moisture and frost begins to form on the evaporator, defective evaporator cover. During the defrost cycle, the frost melts and drips down to the drain where it becomes frozen again. Ice blockage in the drain grows larger with every defrost cycle. Because of the growing ice block, cooling efficiency diminishes at a growing rate and eventually blocks the fan blades. Self diagnostics will eventually show a fan error.

Defrost Operation Defrost cycle is initiated by the main PCB. 120VAC is supplied to the defrost heater circuits, for the Fridge and/or for the Freezer The heaters remain on until the defrost sensor voltage tells the PCB to terminate the cycle. The Thermal Fuse or Bi-Metal is the fail safe for this circuit The Thermal Fuse or Bi-Metal is in series with the defrost heater for protection (140 degree) for failure. Defrost drains are warmed by the defrost heater with reflected heat from the evaporator cover or a separate defrost drain heater to allow for proper flow of defrost water The Ice Maker fill tube heater is activated during refrigerator defrost.

Defrosting Troubleshooting Heater part of Evaporator Coil Resistance and use vary by Model 2600 to 400 ohm heaters –

Inverter Compressor Troubleshooting

Inverter Compressor & System Operation Testing Compressor is not running, LED on the drive board is not on. 1. Activate Forced Compressor Operation, wait 3 minutes (in case of high head pressure) 2. If compressor doesn’t start, and LED is out, check Compressor Control pin for 2.5VDC (if not there replace Main PCB) CN** To Comp Inverter Board Comp control (Org-vdc to vdc common) 2.5VDC

Inverter Compressor & System Testing Compressor not running LED Blinking Activate Forced Compressor operation, wait 3 min. (in case of high head pressure) Check for 120VAC at CN02 Red and Gray wires. If voltage is OK, remove power, disconnect CN03 (Inverter PCB) and check resistance to the windings. Aproxametly10 ohms. If not correct, inspect wire harness, if OK replace compressor. Disconnect CN02 (Inverter PCB), check resistance to Overload, if open replace overload. CN02 Overload & A/C Line 1 OLP - 3 OLP (Brn- S/Blu) 3 L - 1 N (Red-Gry) CN04 Compressor Control (all measure to vdc common) 1 +12VDC 2 +5VDC 4 Comp Signal (Org) LED Inverter PCB CN03 Compressor Windings 1 Compressor (Blue) 3 Compressor (Vio) 5 Compressor (Wht)

Inverter Compressor Checks 10 Ω all windings 0.1 Ω L N 120VAC 2.5VDC control

Standard Compressor Operation The Compressor is the heart of the refrigerator, creating the pressure difference for refrigeration. Line voltage is supplied through the Overload Protector. When ordering compressors, they are not shipped with a PTC Relay, Overload Protector, or Drier. 120VAC when the is relay closed Neutral is switched to power compressor, measuring voltage from chassis ground will show voltage at PTC Relay. Use Forced Compressor mode to test. Use L1 Common for measurements, tap compressor relay on Main PCB when checking voltage to find intermittent problems.

Ice Production Problems Twist Tray Type Heat Release Type

Ice Maker Test Procedures No Ice Production Step 1. Talk to the customer Step 2. Talk to the unit (Fault Codes) Step 3. Test the unit using the following steps Step 4. Repair (educate) the customer What do you need to make Ice? Water & the correct temperature to freeze it Simple right? If the ice maker has the proper amount of water in the tray but the temperature at the I/M is not correct it will not make ice. If the temperature is correct but there is not enough water in the tray there will be no ice. If the I/M works with a test harvest, then troubleshoot for a water or temperature problem.

Flex Tray Ice MakerIce Production Explanation When the initial power is applied, the ice tray will stand by for 2 hours. After the 2-hour standby time, the Ice Maker Sensor will check the temperature , when it is lower than 1.5℉ for more than 5 minutes, it will harvest, with or without ice in the tray, then fill with water. 58 minutes after water is supplied to the Ice Tray, the Ice Maker Sensor temperature will be checked. When the Ice Maker Sensor maintains lower than 1. 5℉ for 5 minutes, it will completes the harvest, if the ice bin is not sensed as full. Filling the tray After the water fill is completed, the ice maker sensor will evaluate water volume, one and a half minutes later. When it detects no or low water level it will add more water. First supply time will be 1.5 sec, next one will be 1 sec and the last will be 2 sec.

No Ice - Flex Tray I/M For the ice maker to fill properly, water pressure between 20 and 120 PSI is required. A quick test of water pressure would be filling a 6 to 8 Oz cup in less than 10 seconds. If the internal water filter is clogged, the water pressure to the icemaker will be reduced. The foreign matter at the water supply valve near the icemaker can also reduce the water pressure. Additionally, low water pressure at the fill tube can be caused by a defective fill tube heater. If the tray seems to be filling completely but the unit never harvests, verify the operation of the Icemaker sensor in the tray. Normally the unit harvests when the sensor reads approximately 1.5 ℉ for 5 minutes. The sensor should read about 3.7VDC at the main board connector when the cube temperature is 1.5 ℉. After the fill, the sensor will read water temp, 1.5 to 2.2VDC. Remember, using frame ground might produce inaccurate values; instead use the DC ground on the PC board. If this value is incorrect the sensor is suspected to be defective. You can also verify the operation of the harvest motor by pressing the black test unit on the motor housing near the back of the assembly. Is the freezer not dropping below 10 ℉? Make sure the Freezer defrost circuit is working properly and the evaporator and condenser fans are working correctly. Inspect condenser coil for air blockage.

Slow Ice - Flex Tray I/M This problem is usually caused by a defective sensor or low water pressure. The I/M sensor will delay the time by adding extra fills if the water pressure is low. Also check the operation of the freezer, if the freezer temperature is above 1.5 ℉, ice production will be delayed. This can also be caused by a problem with the freezer air vent, make sure the air duct near the ice maker is not restricted. If the unit is on an R/O water system, water pressure may be too low for consistent ice production. Is there any frost in the freezer compartment or evaporator? Excessive frost could mean warm air leaking into the compartment warming the top of the freezer preventing the ice maker sensor from maintaining the necessary 1.5 ℉ to harvest. Check for ice chute failure, a leak at ice maker fill tube, an air leak around defrost water drain by evaporator coil, cracks in liner or a bad door seal. Finally make sure the most updated version of Ice maker kit has been installed. The ice maker designs in many models have been updated for better performance. Check GSPN for any related service bulletins regarding Ice-maker changes.

Shattered Ice Cubes Flex Tray I/M When all ice shatters it's because of a bad tray or harvesting at a temp that is too cold (lower than 1.5 ℉), in some areas hard water issues that can also cause shattered cubes. The temp in the freezer should not have any effect on this issue, as long as it’s below 1.5 ℉, as a properly installed sensor will not read the freezer temp, only the water/ice temp. Check the Ice tray for defects in the plastic. Impurities or hard water can cause the plastic to become rough and inhibit the ice falling from the tray during the twisting. If this is the case, replace the tray assembly. It is possible to get ice too cold. Ice that is too cold will shatter during harvest. This can be from the (1) sensor not reading the correct temp (2) the sensor not mounted correctly (3) by programming the icemaker offset value to a lower number (4) the board not understanding the reading. To check the sensor you must check the tray temp (not air temp) and compare it to the sensor reading. The sensor should read about 3.7VDC at the main board connector when the cube temperature is 5 degrees. After the fill the sensor will read water temp 1.5 to 2.2VDC. To clear offsets, put unit into Diagnostics mode. Please note, some shattering is normal for a flex tray icemaker, especially if the Ice Off feature was used recently.

Testing for No or Slow Ice Ice Maker Room or Freezer: Check the ambient temperature of the compartment from the main board by checking the DC voltage of the compartment sensor (compare it to the chart in fast track) Check the DC voltage of the ice maker eject sensor (compare it to the chart in fast track) TemperatureResistanceVoltage Chart for Samsung Refrigerator Sensors

CN30 Sensors & Switches 2-1 +5VDC (Blk-Gry) 3 Humidity Sensor (Brn) 4-(CN76-1)Fz Sensor (Red-Gry) 3.5~4.2VDC 5-(CN76-1)F Def Sensor (Org-Gry) 2.3~4.2VDC 6-(CN76-1) R Sensor (Wht-Gry) 2.4~2.8VDC 8-(CN76-1) R Def Sensor (S/Blu-Gry) 2~4.2VDC 9-(CN76-1) Mid Drawer Sensor (W/Blk-Gry) 2.6~2.8VDC CN76 F, R, C Fans & Door Sws 2-1 Ice Room Fan (Blk-Gry) 7-11VDC 3-1 F Fan (Yel-Gry) 7-11VDC 4-1 R Fan (Org-Gry) 7-11VDC 5-1 C Fan (S/Blu-Gry) 7-11VDC 6 Ice Room Fan FG (Pnk) 7 F Fan FG (Brn) 8 R Fan FG (Red) 9 C Fan FG (Blu) 11– Fz Door Sw 12– FF Door Sw 13– Mid Drawer door Sw Check the DC voltage of the sensor at the main board then match it with the sensor chart for temperature (if ice maker is in the freezer compartment CN79 Flow Sensor 7-Flow Sensor Out (Wht) 9-8 +5VDC (Red-Blk) CN51 Mid Drawer Display CN90 Ice Maker 1-7 Sensor I/M eject (Brn-Gry) 2-7 Test Sw (Blk-Gry) +5VDC 3 Full Hall IC out (Blu) 4 Horiz Hall IC out (S/Blu) 5-7 +5VDC (Yel-Gry) CN70 All 120VAC 3-13 I/M Heater (Blk-Gry) 5-13 French & Disp Heater (Yel-Gry) 7-13 R Defrost (Wht-Org) 9-13 F Defrost/Ice Duct heater (Brn-Gry) 11- L1 (Red) 13- N (Gry) Check the DC voltage of sensor at the main board then match it with the sensor chart for temperature. (you need 1.5 F (flex tray) & 18.5 F (heat mold) to harvest CN71 All 120vac 3 Neutral (Gray) RF4287HA CN73 All 120VAC 1-(CN70-11) Cube Solenoid (Yel-Red) 3-(CN70-11) Auger Motor (Pnk-Red) 5-(CN70-11) Dispenser Valve (W/Blk-Red) 7-(CN70-11) I/M Valve Fridge (Prp-Red) 9-(CN70-11) Ice Cover Route (Blu-Red) 11-(CN70-11) I/M Motor CW (R) (Brn-Red) 13-(CN70-11) I/M Motor CCW (R) (Wht-Red) Check the DC voltage of the sensor at the main board then match it with the sensor chart for temperature (if ice maker is in the Fresh Food compartment CN78 1-2 Fz LEDs (Brn-Prp) 3-5 FF LEDs (Red-Blk) 6-7 Mid Drawer LED (W/Blk-Gry) 8-12 Ambient Sensor (Yel-Yel) 1.2~2VDC 10-(CN76-1) Ice Room Sensor (Org-Gry) 3~3.8VDC

Compartment Temperature Sensor Freezer Flex Tray Style To show actual Temps, on older models, after checking Fault Codes (Why), power off & on. The display will show actual compartment temperature for a short time, check the actual temperature at the top rear of the compartment and compare readings. For newer models, press the temp pad, the set temp will display, then the actual temp displays before going blank.

Testing for no or slow ice Matching Data Collected: If the temperatures and sensor checks match up & the correct temps were present to harvest ice (heater mold 18.5 oF & flex tray 1.5 oF) Next: Press the test button, you will be able to now view all further operations, as the ice maker runs a forced harvest Test Button Location

Test Button Cycle Heat Mold Ice Maker Flex Mold Ice Maker Heat mold ice maker test is over 5 minutes long. ~30 seconds to raise and lower the bucket arm ~120 seconds to heat the mold ~180 seconds to rotate the harvest arms Flex tray ice maker takes about 30 seconds to complete the harvest cycle. Both ice makers will attempt to fill once harvest is complete. This allows you to see if the filter & water valve are working

If No Harvest Occurs For heated mold ice makers, 30 seconds after the button is pressed, check for 120VAC to the I/M Heater Check for voltage to the Test switch CN90 Ice Maker 1-7 Sensor I/M eject (Brn-Gry) 2-7 Test Sw (Blk-Gry) 5vdc 3 Full Hall IC out (Blu) 4 Horiz Hall IC out (S/Blu) 5-7 +5vdc (Yel-Gry) CN70 All 120vac 3-13 I/M Heater (Blk-Gry) 5-13 French & Disp Heater (Yel-Gry) 7-13 R Defrost (Wht-Org) 9-13 F Defrost/Ice Duct heater (Brn-Gry) 11- L1 (Red) 13- N (Gry) CN50 Display 3-5 (Org-Yel) 13vdc 4-5 (Yel-Yel) 5vdc 7-5 Ice Sw (Blu-Yel) 5vdc 8-5 Water Sw (Pnk-Yel) 5vdc 9-5 Ice Rte Sw 1(Prp-Yel) 5vdc 10-5 Ice Rte Sw 2 (Wht-Yel) 5vdc CN71 All 120vac 3 Neutral (Gray) RF4287HA CN73 All 120vac 1-(CN70-11) Cube Solenoid (Yel-Red) 3-(CN70-11) Auger Motor (Pnk-Red) 5-(CN70-11) Dispenser Valve (W/Blk-Red) 7-(CN70-11) I/M Valve Fridge (Prp-Red) 9-(CN70-11) Ice Cover Route (Blu-Red) 11-(CN70-11) I/M Motor CW (R) (Brn-Red) 13-(CN70-11) I/M Motor CCW (R) (Wht-Red) Once test button has been pressed check for 120VAC to the ice maker motors

Sensors Check Good but Internal Temp Low CN76 F, R, C Fans & Door Switches 2-1 Ice Room Fan (Blk-Gry) 7-11VDC 3-1 F Fan (Yel-Gry) 7-11VDC 4-1 R Fan (Org-Gry) 7-11VDC 5-1 C Fan (S/Blu-Gry) 7-11VDC 6 Ice Room Fan FG (Pnk) 7 F Fan FG (Brn) 8 R Fan FG (Red) 9 C Fan FG (Blu) 11– Fz Door Switch 12– FF Door Switch 13– Mid Drawer door Switch Check for 7-11VDC for the fan & 2.5VDC for the FG line CN70 All 120VAC 3-13 I/M Heater (Blk-Gry) 5-13 French & Disp Heater (Yel-Gry) 7-13 R Defrost (Wht-Org) 9-13 F Defrost/Ice Duct heater (Brn-Gry) 11- L1 (Red) 13- N (Gry) Make sure that all 3 air chutes are open & free of obstructions. The duct heater can be checked at the board

Ice Duct Heater Brown wires, 120VAC Foil Heater

Service Concerns Heat Release I/M Is there any frost in the freezer compartment? Excessive frost on the evaporator coil will either coat the coil enough to warm the air to 32 ℉ to supply the ice room or block the air duct completely to the ice room. Make sure the Freezer defrost circuit is working properly and the freezer and ice room compartments are sealed properly The Ice maker will harvest within a few hours of the freezer defrost cycle, when the evaporator is frost free. As the frost builds up on the evaporator again the ice maker will stop as the temperature is too warm. Ice making will stop until the next defrost cycle completes which will be 12 to 23 hours later. This is a defrost error not an icemaker error. Check the freezer door seal, ice room door seal and the freezer defrost heater.

Service Concerns Heat Release I/M The Ice maker will harvest within a few hours of the freezer defrost cycle, when the evaporator is frost free. As the frost builds up on the evaporator again the ice maker will stop as the temperature is too warm. Ice making will stop until the next defrost cycle completes which will be 12 to 23 hours later. This is a defrost error not an icemaker error. Check the freezer door seal, ice room door seal and the freezer defrost heater. The Ice-Duct Heater is a foil heater that keeps the duct, on the evaporator cover, from frosting up and blocking air flow to the I/M. If this heater fails there will be low or no ice production.

Service Concerns Heat Release I/M Is the Ice Bucket locked firmly in position? Try to move the bucket, when locked in place, any movement would mean that one of the locks is not latched. This will cause warm fridge air to enter the ice room and stop ice production. Temperature checks (Actual) The Back of Ice Room should measure 0 to 6 ℉ when making ice The Back of Freezer compartment should measure -4 to +3 ℉

Testing for no or slow ice Heat Mold Style Measure the temperature: Using a temp gun quickly measure the room sensor area, then measure the temp on the ice maker mold. (note: auger metal will hold temps longer) Compare them to the VDC checks from the board. This will help you see if you have a faulty sensor Temp gun shows 16.4 °F Should we be making ice?

Heat Release Ice Maker - Troubleshooting Voltage tests The Ice Room Sensor voltage should match the actual ice room temperature; refer to the sensor voltage/ temperature chart in the service manual. The Freezer Sensor voltage should match the freezer temperature and also be close to the actual ice room temperature, refer to the sensor voltage/ temperature chart in the service manual. If the bucket is full the Ice Room temperature should be around 24 ℉.

Heat Release Ice Maker - Troubleshooting The Freezer Defrost Sensor Voltage should be 0 to -17 ℉, with the compressor running, to show no frost/ice buildup and good operating system, refer to the sensor voltage/temperature chart in the service manual. The Ejecting Thermistor should not measure below 17 ℉, unless the bucket is full, as it should harvest at 18 ℉. If Ejecting Thermistor measures actual ice room temperature, and the bucket is not full, it would mean that the I/M is not harvesting. If there has been a recent harvest, the Thermistor might measure up to 50℉ as the mold heater and fresh water has warmed the sensor.

Heat Release Ice Maker - Troubleshooting If any of the sensors measure incorrectly replace the defective sensor The Ice Room Fan should read around 7 to 9VDC when it is running. Be sure to defeat the door open switch when testing the fans. You can force the fan to turn on by putting the unit into the Forced Freeze mode. If the I/M Thermistor reads below 18 ℉after 38 minutes and there is no harvest replace the main PCB

Temperature/Resistance/Voltage Chart

RF4289HARSG309 Similar Wi-Fi Display Initial Set Up

Indicator Icons Network Signal Strength: 5 Levels (off - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4) Low signal conditions can contribute to applications not working to loss of network connection Water Filter Status: 3 Levels (blue - pink - red) The water filter icon will change colors. When the icon turns RED,thefilter needs to be replaced S/W Update Notice When there is a software update to improve performance or to load a new application

Connecting to a Network 1 2 From the main screen select settings Scroll down to Wi-Fi and Wi-Fi Networks. Make sure Wi-Fi is on then select Wi-Fi Networks 3 Once Wi-Fi Networks is selected it will search for available networks in range

Testing the Network Connection Select “Wi-Fi Networks” found by selecting the “Settings” icon on the main menu screen For the network being used as indicated by the mark, select “IP Address”

Testing the Network Connection The system will automatically determine the various addresses and will display them when complete Once displayed, select the “Test” button

Testing the Network Connection If the automatic settings are correct a message will appear indicating that the configuration is working.

Engineer (Service) Mode

Entering the Engineer (Service) Mode A B To enter the service or engineer mode, alternately touchthe corners of the touch screen at locations “A” and “B” a few times until “Engineer Mode Enabled” appears.

Engineer (Service) Mode Once in the engineer, mode scroll down to the last menu selection under settings and that is where this mode will be found. When complete with this mode simply exit by touching the “Home” button and Engineer Mode is canceled. There are various menu selections in the engineer mode.

Engineer (Service) Mode System Information will display the refrigerator model information and the version and date of the current software.

Engineer (Service) Mode If the refrigerator is not connected to a network, the software can be upgraded through the use of a memory card containing the file under the “Software Upgrade (Force)” section. The SD memory card must be inserted before selecting.

Engineer (Service) Mode The user data can be backed up or restored using a memory card. The card must be inserted before selecting. Resetting to factory defaults will delete all user settings.

Engineer (Service) Mode Panel function will check the LCD screen for defective pixels and back light problems. In the pixel check mode, the display will scroll through different test patterns: Black White Red Green Blue In the brightness check mode the screen will continuously change brightness levels to check the backlight system.

Engineer (Service) Mode . . Dead Pixels . Example of a “Dead” or not lit pixel Lines . Example of a pixel “Stuck On” or always lit. Both also show examples of lines that will indicate a defective panel. If defective pixels or lines are seen, replace the display assembly. . Stuck Pixels .

Engineer (Service) Mode Checking the memory of the panel The Wi-Fi networks within range of the refrigerator can be checked for communications. If the refrigerator “Sees” a network but can not connect, the problem generally is the network and not the refrigerator.

Engineer (Service) Mode Test To check the communications of the home network, press the “Test” button. If the communications are working between the refrigerator and the network, signal strength and a MAC address will appear. This will indicate that the network is connected and communicating. Signal Strength

Engineer (Service) Mode Under the refrigerator function menu there is a self diagnostic and an error log. If there is or was an error with the refrigerator this is where the error can be read.

Engineer (Service) Mode The refrigerator load status will indicate what device in the refrigerator is currently running. For example: the evaporator fan, compressor, etc. The refrigerator option menu selection will allow the technician to offset a sensor that may be changing value.

Engineer (Service) Mode The Test Mode is the forced mode. Entering this test the compressor will turn on, high speed only without the normal delay, the TDM valve will move and the defrost heaters can be activated. The test will progress with every touch of the “Next” button until current status shows “Test Cancel”.

Samsung Home Appliance 2012 REDO Prevention & Troubleshooting - Refrigerator -