Tree Planting and Maintenance Techniques

2. OBJECTIVESThe student will be able to… • Draw a diagram of what can be done to prevent tree roots from invading and damaging paved areas.

3. OBJECTIVESThe student will be able to… • Compare and contrast the planting procedures for balled & burlapped versus container-grown plants. • Diagram how to stake a newly planted tree. • Relate the features of a low-maintenance landscape. • Assemble a list of pruning tools necessary for landscape maintenance. • Explain the purposes of pruning.

4. OBJECTIVESThe student will be able to… • Recognize crossing branches, improper pruning cuts, suckers & girdling roots on landscape plants. • Demonstrate the hand removal of candles for pruning evergreens. • Draw three outline shapes that are acceptable for pruning of formal hedges to ensure the health of the lower portions. • Describe the advantages and disadvantages of sprinkler versus drip irrigation.

5. OBJECTIVESThe student will be able to… • List three techniques for water conservation in a landscape. • Identify and describe four mulches suitable foruse in a landscape.

6. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPE • Practices for landscaping vary significantly depending on the region of North America. • Landscapes are planted in spring in temperate zones. • Plants will be dormant or just starting active growing, andtransplant with minimal shock. • The ground will be thawed (far North), the temperature relatively cool, slowing transpiration, preventing wilting. • Fall is the second-best time for transplanting. • Again because of the cool temperatures. • Summer is the least preferable time for planting as sun &hot temperatures make the wilting problems more acute. • If container-grown plants are used exclusively, roots will beundisturbed and will grow even in summer.

7. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETrees & Shrubs - Bare Root • Shrubs and trees are sold bare root, balled and burlapped, or container grown. • Selling condition determines price, chances of survivingtransplanting, and the seasons for transplanting.

8. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETrees & Shrubs - Bare Root • Only deciduous plants are sold bare root. • Always dug and sold while dormant. • Most bare-root plants are sold only in spring. • Occasionally available in fall or throughout winter. • Bare root is an inexpensive way to buy plants, as they are grown in fields with minimal maintenance. • And simply dug up when the selling season arrives. • Most mail-order nurseries utilize this selling. • To minimize shipping weight.

9. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETrees & Shrubs - Bare Root • A bare-root plant is more likely to die during transplant than a container-grown one. • Many roots are lost when they are dug from the ground. • When selecting a bare-root plant, pick the sturdiest plant with the largest root system. • Roots should be covered with or bagged in wood shavings. • They be damp to the touch—if they have dried, the plant may be dead. • If the plant is alive, a green layer will be visible underthe surface if you scratch a tiny area of bark.

10. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETrees & Shrubs - Bare Root • If planting cannot take place for several days, the plant should be left in a shady area with the roots covered with moist soil. • This heeling in prevents drying and the death of the roots. • At planting time, the roots should be placed in a bucket of water & the tree taken to the planting site.

11. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPE Trees & Shrubs - Bare Root Organic amendment can be mixed with the soil to makea mixture to refill the hole. Figure 13-1 A bare root tree after transplanting. • A hole should be dug large enoughto accommodate the roots easilywithout crowding. • Topsoil should be piled ona piece of canvas or plasticnext to the hole and notmixed with the subsoil.

12. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETrees & Shrubs - Bare Root • Part of the mixture should be shoveled back into the hole, so when the plant is placed in the hole,it will be sitting at or slightly above its original growing level. • Any badly broken roots should be clipped off with hand pruners, and remaining roots spread outward in the hole, and covered with soil to ground level. • A small ridge of soil should be mounded around the planting hole as a basin for water. • The plant should be watered in well, by filling the basin three or four times.

13. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETrees & Shrubs - Balled-and-Burlapped Because the process involves considerable labor, plants sold thisway are expensive. Figure 13-2 A balled-and-burlapped tree after transplanting. • Balled and burlapped refersto trees and shrubs grownin a field but dug tokeep a ball of soilaround the roots. • Both evergreens &deciduous plantsare balled andburlapped.

14. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETrees & Shrubs - Balled-and-Burlapped • Because the digging disturbs only part of the roots, balled-and-burlapped plants usually transplant successfully. • Provided the ball remains moist, and proper plantingprocedures are used.

15. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETrees & Shrubs - Balled-and-Burlapped • Hole and soil preparation is basically the same as for bare-root plants. • However, the hole should be twice as wide as the ball,and one to one and one-half times as deep. • Care must be taken when transplanting to preventthe soil ball from breaking. • Once the plant is in position in the hole, the strings can becut & removed and the burlap peeled back from the trunk. • Plastic burlap should be removed completely, and even ordinary burlap, which may have been treated to preventrotting, is best removed.

16. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETrees & Shrubs - Container-Grown Plants • Because the root system develops within the container, the plant is disturbed only slightly at transplanting, and moved when the soil is workable. • With a plastic container, the plant can be turned upsidedown and will slide out easily with little shaking. • A planting hole should be at least twice as bigas the container. • If the plant is root-bound—with roots grown on the outside of the soil ball, encircling it—the roots should be loosened by hand, or cut so they will brace out into the new soil.

17. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETrees & Shrubs - Boxed Trees • Occasionally, you will see large trees for sale with their roots in boxes. • These may have been container grown, or field grown. • Boxing is in lieu of balling and burlapping. • Planting-hole preparation should be the same asfor balled-and-burlapped plants. • Carefully remove box to avoid breaking the soil ball. • The tree should be turned on its side and the bottom ofthe box removed. • Using a board as an inclined plane, the box shouldthen be slid onto the planting hole. • Once in place, the sides of the box can be removedand the hole filled with soil.

18. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPEPruning Newly Transplanted Trees and Shrubs • Pruning new transplants encourages them to develop proper form. • Many times, bare-root plants are sold prepruned,and need no further pruning until the following season. • About one-third of the top should be removed at transplant, by removing weaker branches & clipping remaining branches back to one-half to two-thirdsof their original length. • Branches low on the trunk should not be removed,as the branches strengthen the trunk.

19. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPEStaking and Wrapping Trees  • Staking may be needed either to anchor the root system of the tree until it becomes established,or support the trunk in an upright position. • Usually for a maximum of 1 year. • Unless it can be determined that staking is fulfillingone of these functions, it is not necessary. • And will cause weakening of the trunk.

20. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPEStaking Trees  For root anchorageof bare-root trees,two short stakes(about 1 to 1-1/2 ft) should be insertedon opposite sidesof the trunk. Figure 13-2 A balled-and-burlapped tree after transplanting.

21. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPEStaking Trees  • The tree should be secured to each stake with strips of rubber, cloth, or wire, covered with a section of garden hose. • Uncovered wire, rope, or twine is not recommended, asfriction will cause it to rub off the tender bark. • Trees that require trunk support should be staked as low as will allow them to stand upright under calm conditions. • Stakes should be positioned on opposite sides ofthe tree and the trunk tied to the stakes at a singlepoint near the top.

22. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPEWrapping Trees  Figure 13-3 Wrapping a tree trunk with vinyl tape. • Wrapping involves twining tree-wrapping paper, vinyl, or burlap secured with twine around a tree trunk from the base to the lowest branches. • Wrapping should beleft in place for about1 year after which it should be removed.

23. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPEWrapping Trees  Wrapping protects the trunk from sun damage, a problem on trees grown in rows with their trunks shaded by neighboring trees. It also protects against bark damage from string trimmersused too close to the trunk. A semi-permanent plastic/metal collar is better in the long run to protect the trunk for many years. Figure 13-3 Wrapping a tree trunk with vinyl tape.

24. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETransplanting Groundcovers • Groundcovers, herbaceous perennials or woody shrubs, are transplanted with a trowel throughouta prepared bed, and watered thoroughly. • Many herbaceous groundcovers spread by trailing along the surface of the soil, so it is important that soil in a groundcover area be conditioned. • Spaded to at least 12”, with amendment throughout. • Spacing is determined by economics and how quickly coverage is desired. • Spacing plants 2 ft. apart costs less than spacing 8”apart, but takes up to a year longer to cover the area. • 1 ft. spacing gives coverage at a moderate rate/expense.

25. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPETransplanting Groundcovers Figure 13-4 Planting a groundcover througha landscape fabric will make subsequentmaintenance much easier. It is a water permeable, wovenor felted synthetic material thatis laid over the area to be planted. • When landscaping with groundcover, using land-scape fabric to cover the area is a wise investment. Then holes are cut for each groundcover plant; the plantsare inserted through the fabricfor planting. The advantages of landscape fabric are permanent, total weed control while still allowing waterto penetrate. In this regard, it is different from black plastic mulch.

26. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPEPostplanting Care of the Landscape - Watering • During the first growing season, plant roots occupy only a small volume of soil, and need constant moisture to become established in the new location. • Slow soaking with a hose is preferred for shrubs and trees, every 7 to 10 days. • Allows all the moisture to be absorbed into the soil and provides sufficient water to moisten the entire root area. • Groundcover watering is done by hand or sprinkler. • As frequently as required to keep the soil moist. • It is advisable to check depth of water penetration with a trowel after watering, digging to the depth of the roots and examining the soil moisture.

27. PLANTING THE LANDSCAPEPostplanting Care of the Landscape • Mulching keeps in soil moisture and prevents weed growth, a problem in newly planted groundcover areas. • Regular maintenance by pruning, fertilizing, watering, and weed control is a necessity if home grounds are to remain attractive and plants healthy.

28. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEFeatures of a Low-Maintenance Landscape • Landscapes designed to remain attractive with minimal maintenance may include: • Large paved or decked areas that require only occasional sweeping. • Raised planters that require less bending for maintenance. • Groundcover areas in lieu of lawns to eliminate mowing. • Mulches or groundcovers around all trees & shrubs to eliminate hand trimming, and suppress weed growth. • An automatic irrigation system where rainfall is insufficient. • A limited number of carefully placed plants, rather than large numbers of plants scattered through the landscape.

29. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEFeatures of a Low-Maintenance Landscape • Landscapes designed to remain attractive with minimal maintenance may include: • Plants that do not require frequent pruning and donot drop leaves, fruits, or dead flowers. • Plants that, when mature, will not require extensive pruning to keep them the proper size. • Flowering shrubs rather than maintenance-requiring annual and perennial flowers. • Plants that naturally are disease- and insect-resistantand have been proven to grow well in the locale.

30. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCESoil-Working Tools - Trowel When purchasing a trowel, check to make sure the handle attaches firmly tothe blade & does not bend. • A trowel is used for digging smallholes for planting bulbs, settingout transplants, and similar tasks.

31. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCESoil-Working Tools - Round-Point Shovel When tip is pointed to make it easy to push into the soil. •  A round-point shovel is used for digginglarger holes such as for planting treesand shrubs, and for other, generalgarden digging.

32. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCESoil-Working Tools - Hoe Hoes are also used for weeding. For this purpose, they should be used with a scraping motion that severs the weeds at the soil line. If used in a cultivating manner, additional weed seeds will be exposed, germinate, and intensify the weed problem. Frequently used invegetable gardeningto prepare rowsfor seeding. • A hoe is used for shallow cultivationof a previously prepared area andwill penetrate the soil up to 4” deep.

33. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCESoil-Working Tools - Spading Fork A spading fork is distinguished from apitchfork in that it has stronger, flat tines. • A spading fork is used to move piles of leaves or refuse, turn compost, and break up large clods in the soil. • A spading fork is more efficientthan a shovel for these purposes,and moves a greater volume ofleaves or compost with each bite.

34. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEWatering Equipment - Hose • Many grades of garden hoses are available. • Inexpensive plastic ones are stiff and developpermanent kinks that restrict water flow. • Reinforced plastic hoses remain pliable, do not kink,and are lightweight. • Rubber hoses are the most durable, but are heavy,and expensive.

35. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEWatering Equipment - Pistol Nozzle Some gardeners find the forceful stream useful for washing off insects and the mist ideal for watering seedlings. • A pistol nozzle provides on-off controland can be adjusted to give water invarying intensities, from a strongforceful stream to a gentle mist. Unfortunately, the directedstream is too forceful for mostwatering, and when emittedat a lower volume, it spraysin a circle and cannot bedirected accurately.

36. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEWatering Equipment - Flaring Rose (Fan) Nozzle It often does not provide an ON-OFF control. • The flaring rose nozzle applies a largevolume of water without force and isgood for general overhead watering.

37. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEWatering Equipment - Oscillating Sprinkler Because the head movesback and forth, water isapplied over the area ata slow rate, and runoff isless likely than with anon-oscillating type. • The oscillating sprinkler is the most adaptable togeneral yard use and can be adjusted to coverany size area by altering the water pressureand the oscillation mechanism.

38. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEWatering Equipment - Watering Can • Either plastic or galvanized metal watering cansare acceptable. • Although metal cans last longer, they are heavierand more expensive than plastic cans. • The can should contain a removable sprinklerhead so that either a fast volume or a slow sprinkling of water can be applied.

39. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCELeaf Rakes Used for raking leaves, grass, and other lightweight materials. • A leaf rake can be made of lightweightmetal or bamboo, and has longflexible teeth.

40. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEGarden (Bow) Rakes Used for smoothing the soil surface in preparation for seeding a lawn or vegetable garden, removing thatch from the lawn, and other purposes. • A garden rake is generally metal, withshort, rigid, widely spaced teeth.

41. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEFertilizing Equipment - Hose-End Sprayer It is used for fertilizing lawns, flowers & othershallow-rooted plants,and for applying certain insecticides. It is not accurateenough for mostpesticide applications. • The hose-end sprayer attaches to a hose and automatically mixes any liquid concentrateinto the water at dilute strength.

42. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEFertilizing Equipment - Root Feeder • A root feeder works like a hose-end sprayer, proportioning liquid fertilizer into irrigation water. • It is equipped with a long, needlelike tube for injectingthe fertilizer into the root zone of shrubs and trees.

43. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEPruning Tools - Hand Pruners Figure 13-10 Pruning tools. Hand Pruners are the most frequently used pruning tool. They will cut branches up to 3/4” in diameter. It is important to never twist hand pruners when cutting, in an attempt to cut a large branch. This will pull the cutting blades out of alignment and ruin the pruners.

44. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEPruning Tools - Lopping Shears  Figure 13-10 Pruning tools. Hand Lopping Shears, also called loppers, will remove branches up to about 1-1/2” diameter, cleanly, in a single cut. Loppers are used on larger shrubs and trees. Although simple lopping shears are pictured, lever-type shears, and ratcheting shears require less strength to use

45. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEPruning Tools - Pruning Saw Figure 13-10 Pruning tools. A small, curved pruning saw can remove larger branches & is specially designed specially to fit in tight places. It can substitute for lopping shears, butwill require more labor.

46. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEPruning Tools - Hedge Shears Figure 13-10 Pruning tools. Hedge Shears are needed only if formal hedges are to be maintained

47. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEPower Equipment - Hedge Trimmer • An electric hedgetrimmer is essentialto the maintenanceof long sections offormal hedges.

48. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEPower Equipment - String Trimmer  • A string trimmer(gas or electric)is used to trimgrass aroundtrees & beside paved areas.

49. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEPower Equipment - Power Blower  • A power blower is a mainstay for the maintenance of walkways & other paved areas.

50. LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEPower Equipment - Edger • An edger is used to maintain the clean line between turf and nonturf areas.