Hair Problems and Scalp Disoders

1. Hair Problems and Scalp Disoders Assoc. Prof. Dr. Pleumchitt Rojanapanthu Pharmacy Department, Faculty of Pharmacy Mohidol University, Bangkok, Thailand

2. Hair Problems Loose hairs • telogen hairs : hairs that are ready to fall • follicle root is a little hard, white bead • as called “brushed-out” hair

3. Loose hairs (con.) • anagen hairs : hair that is “pulled out” • follicle root is fat • soft to touch and sticky, stick to your hand • still carry fluid from the follicle • pulling it out hurts • one which was not ready to be shed

4. Hair Damage Causes of hair damage • Weathering • Cutting and styling • Sunlight • Mechanic • Heat • Hair treatment

5. Damage from weathering • gradually wearing away of cuticle of the • hair shaft • exposes the cortex, which becomes worn down • badly weathered hair is quite common • all hair has its limit

6. Weathering (con.) • once that limit is passed and the hair has seriously broken down • new hair first grow up out of the scalp • cuticle consist of up to ten layers of long “scale” • it is in credible thin : only 3-4 micron • only thing to be done is to cut it off

7. A classical split end, with gross disruption of the cortex

8. Very highly magnified electronmicrograph of normal cuticles, showing how the scales overlap (the scale run from the base of the hair towards the tip)

9. The tip of a normal hair that has been normally weathered

10. Damage form hair cutting and styling • blunt scissors a long jagged edge at which cuticle scale further damage • good quality scissors cut clearly • razor long, tapering section of the cuticle which weather quickly and even bask

11. Damage form hair cutting and styling • cutting dry hair belief it savehair form have brushing when is damp and therefore vulnerable is damaging • a circular or semicircular brush is preferable and least damaging

12. The continuing destruction of the cortex of a hair: the long parallel bundles of keratin have been exposed and can be seen clearly

13. The cortex has ruptured and canno t be repaired, so that the only course of action is to cut off the hair The use of good-quality scissors is a vital part of hair care

14. Damage from the sunlight UV from direct sunlight • affcets the cuticle in similar way to a bleach • keratin protein of the hair breaks down • hair is gradually weakened and become dryer

15. Sunlight (con.) • break up some of the chemical links with in amino acid • particular those between carbon and sulphur atoms • does not affect disulphide linkages or hydrogen bonds

16. Effect of Air and Sunlight

17. Mechanical damage • hair can be damaged by brushing especially when it wets and tangling • metal combs are hard for the hair • back brushing and backcombing are extremely harmful

18. Mechanical damage (con.) • backcombing tug against the scale of cuticle • delicate scales are lifted and will be ripped off for the next combing • backcombing process is one of the most damaging physical treatment

19. Two views of damage to cuticles, both due to backcombing

20. Two views of damage to cuticles, both due to backcombing

21. Heat damage • blow drying reduces the moisture content • hair dryer first softens the keratin of the hair • it’s too hot actually cause the water in the hair to be boiled • ting bubbles of steam form inside the soften hair shaft

22. Bubbles formed within hair as a result of water boiling within the cortex

23. Damage from hair treatment • shampooing should not damage the hair modern shampoos do not lift the cuticle • hash shampoos acute and irreversible tangling or matting • modern shampoos contain conditioning agents and help to protect the hair

24. Damage from hair treatment (con.) • wetting and drying hair without shampoo small amount of matting or small lock of hair • friction is higher in wet hair than in dry • cosmetic procedure : permanent waving, bleaching and dyeing all damage the hair

25. Permanent waving • permanent waving agent break the disulphide bond which give the hair shaft its structure • the hair is then put into new shape neutralized

26. Permanent waving (con.) • neutralization reforming of chemical bonds in their new positions fixing the hair permanently in to its new shape • neutralization lotion should be applied at the right length of time perm is fixed, the hair is damaged as little as possible

27. The cuticle of this hair has been significantly damaged by repeated and excessive perming

28. Perm shock • putting on perming lotion hair is in a very vulnerable condition keratin is soften and greatly swollen • during rinsing with neutralizing lotion cortex is in the process of being chemical changed cuticle may have been slightly damaged

29. Problems in perming and straightening • not all of hair suitable for perming • although some of disulphide linkages reform during neutralizing, a proportion fail to do so and remain broken • the hair is weaken • the cuticle scale fail to close up tightly again after perming

30. Problems in perming and straightening (con.) • the hair rough surface and weather more quickly • in correct application of perming, straightening or relaxing solution can dissolve the hair fibers/lead to brakage usually quite close to the scalp

31. Summary of hair damage • the hair is weakened • the cuticle begins to breakdown • the cuticle disappear • the cortex is exposed • splits and appears • the hair breaks

32. A split end that has been temporarily repaired A case of trichorrhexis nodosa, where the cortex was disrupted by an overheated hair dryer

33. A perfect hair, its cuticle  intact, taken from a  newborn baby

34. Knotting, associated with African hair...

35. Damaged cuticle, due to backcombing heavily sprayed hair

36. A hair shattered after  damage

37. This is the kind of damage that is caused to African hair by the use of chemical relaxants

38. Severe matting, resulting in bird's nest hair

39. Cosmetic Problems Green hair Condition is always associated with copper • lost in the background color • swimming pool water using chloride or • copper as algicides • high levels of copper in pipes increase • copper levels in drinking water

40. A classical case of green hair: this is seen in light hair, often hair that has been bleached

41. Bubble hair • tiny ‘bubbles’ in the end of the hair cause by : • some kind of heating appliance • most often curling irons Heating between 120 C– 180 C • hot curling put on the wet hair • boils the water inside the hair

42. Bubble hair (con.) • boiling water softens the keratin of cortex • steam from the boiling water expands • form ting bubble inside the hair • eventuallythe hair breaks off somewhere near a bubble

43. A classical case of bubble hair

44. Hair spray accumulation • forming a perfectly smooth cylinder around the hair, not touch each other • spray droplet touching each other • the spray welded two hairs together • will create replica of cuticle of the second hair

45. Hair spray accumulation (con.) • spraying quite often hair spray built up on the hair • modern shampoos technology is excellent at removing even a week’s accumulation of hair spray, grease and dirt

46. An electronmicrograph of a droplet of hair spray

47. A spot weld between two hairs produced by a droplet of a modern hair spray

48. In this photo you can see a perfect replica of the cuticle of the second hair, here. This kind of replica may be seen in heavily sprayed hair which is not washed often enough

49. Hair and Scalp Disorders

50. Hair loss