Chapter 15 (2012 Edition) Scalp Care, Shampooing, & Conditioning

1. Chapter 15 (2012 Edition) Scalp Care, Shampooing, & Conditioning

2. client • ~ judgments about surroundings • the shampoo: • ~ heavenly • ~ forgettable • ~ nightmare • First (preliminary) step for services • Add to the side bar: • has a psychological impact Nadinesalons.com

3. Encompases: • Scalp care • Massage • Shampooing • Conditioning

4. *Soothing • * pleasurable • sets the mood • quality relaxation time • happy with shampoo • ~ happy with entire visit • Read: Why Study…. Nbcaugusta.com

5. Scalp Massage • healthy scalp • ~ cleanliness • ~ stimulation • Manipulations used • in scalp treatments • and ***shampooing media.lvrj.com/images/2785958.jpg

6. Scalp treatments: • Given with a continuous even motion • Stimulate the scalp • Help to relax the client • Do not massage or manipulate a client’s scalp if abrasions are present

7. Scalp massage is performed: • Before a shampoo if a scalp condition is apparent • During the shampoo (once the conditioner has been applied) for relaxation • Procedure 15-11 Page 338 • Difference between Relaxation and Treatment: • Are the products that are used • Follow all manufacturer’s directions

8. Knowing the location of: • ~ muscles • ~ blood vessels • ~ nerve points • scalp and neck • ~ areas that benefit • from massage movements • Read: FYI www.bartleby.com/107/Images/small/image378.jpg

9. Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment • Recommended after a hair and scalp examination • Given either before or after the shampoo • Depending on which treatment is given

10. Dry Hair and Scalp Treatments • Deficiency of natural oil • Use scalp preparations with moisturizing and emollient ingredients • Avoid: strong soaps, mineral- or sulfonated-oil base, greasy or high alcohol content • Use a scalp steamer or hooded dryer • Procedure 15-4 page 329

11. Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment • Manipulate scalp • Increases blood circulation to the surface • Hardened sebum will be removed with gentle pressing or squeezing • Procedure 15-5 page 330

12. Antidandruff Treatment • Antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and lotions control dandruff • Moisturizing salon treatments soften and loosen scales • Recommend additional salon treatments and antidandruff home care • Procedure 15-5 page 331 Read “Service Tip”

13. Brushing the Hair • Correct hair brushing: • Stimulates the blood circulation to the scalp • Helps remove dust, dirt and hair spray buildup from the hair • Gives hair added shine • Include before every shampoo and scalp treatment • Examine scalp for abrasions and infections

14. Four exceptions to HAIR brushing: • Do not brush before a chemical service • Do not brush if the scalp is irritated • Add: Do not brush wet hair

15. NO brushing, shampooing, or massaging the scalp prior to: ~ single-process and double-process haircolor ~ highlighting ~ most chemical relaxers (FMD) ~ some temporary rinses ~ semipermanent haircolor (FMD) *If recommended, gently shampoo to avoid scalp irritation (especially prior to permanent wave)

16. Natural (boar) bristle brushes have tiny overlapping layers • Cleans and adds luster to the hair • Nylon bristles are shiny and smooth • More suitable to hairstyling • Not on test, however important • Add: never use a comb to loosen scales-can tear off skin and cause bleeding

17. Understanding Shampoo • analyze • ~ hair and scalp • Check for: • dry, dehydrated hair • Thinning • excessive hair • ~ left in the sink • dry, tight scalp • oily scalp www.aderans.com.sg/images/1-p16.jpg Cme.medscape.com

18. abnormal flaking • open wounds • scalp irritations • scalp disorders or diseases • ~ tick or lice infestation www.bosleymedical.com/wp-content/uploads/2009...

19. alert the stylist • ~ any hair or scalp conditions • infectious disease is never treated • ~ referred to a physician • cleanse the hair and scalp prior to services • home care • quality hair care products

20. remove all: • dirt oils cosmetics skin debris • cleanse regularly • ~ combat oils • ~ perspiration • ~ dirt • ~ breeding ground for disease-producing bacteria

21. shampoo as often as necessary • excessive: • ~ strips protective oil (sebum) • oily hair shampooed more often • Add to side bar: Shampoo products account for the highest dollar expenditure in hair care products

22. Selecting the Proper Shampoo • skilled at selecting shampoos • read the labels • make informed decisions • recommend home-care items • select a shampoo • ~ condition of hair and scalp

23. oily, dry, normal, or chemically treated • Be aware: • ~ has the hair been treated with a chemical service • (lightened, colored, permed, • chemically treated) • ~ abused by harsh shampoos • ~ damaged by improper care • ~ exposed to the elements

24. www.ourvanity.com/images/damaged-hair.jpg www.enviroblog.org/hair.jpg

25. right home-care products • ~ makes all the difference • ~ looks, feels, and behaves • wrong product choice • ~ good haircut look bad • affects outcome of chemical services

26. Alibaba.com Hairsalon-windsor.co.uk Sleekhair.com Duelle.co.za Tuscanysalon.com

27. ***only professional products • *guaranteed when purchased in a salon • *can only guarantee your chemical services if professional products are used at home. • client’s • ~ good advertising for you

28. Pure Substances and Physical Mixtures • All matter classified as a pure substance or a physical mixture • Pure substance: • * a chemical combination of matter in definite proportions • * has unique properties • * example: Distilled water • *tap (faucet) water is not pure water

29. Physical mixture: *physical combination of matter in any proportions *combined properties of the substances in the mixture *example: salt water Most of the products used by cosmetologists and nail technicians/estheticians are physical mixtures

30. Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions • All physical mixtures • ~ difference between: • *size of the particles • *solubility of the substance

31. Solution: ~ two or more mixable substances Solute: ~ substance dissolved in a solution Solvent: ~ dissolves the solute and makes the solution Water: the universal solvent

32. Miscible liquids • ~ mutually soluble • * mixed into stable solutions • ex. water and alcohol • Stays mixed-forms a solution • They do not separate • Ex. Salt water • Immiscible liquids • ~ not mixed into stable solutions • ex. water and oil

33. Suspensions ~ unstable mixture of undissolved particles ~ separate over time *some lotions and creams-needs to be shaken ex. glitter nail polish oil and vinegar salad dressing calamine lotion nail polish www.polyvore.com/cgi/img-thing?.out=jpg&size=...

34. Emulsions ~ unstable mixture of two or more immiscible substances ~ plus an emulsifier * brings two incompatible materials and binds them into a fairly stable blend ~ separate over time ~ stable for at least three years *cosmetics should be used within one year Name two examples of an emulsifier in hair care products.

35. Surfactants • ~ allow oil and water to mix • The term=“surface active agent” • Head of the surfactant molecule is • Hydrophilic = water-loving • Tail is • Lipophilic = oil-loving • Fig. 12-8 www.pg.com/.../hair_twh_133/hair_133_02.jpg

36. Oil-in-water emulsion ~ oil is emulsified in water *do not feel greasy Read “Did You Know” Ex. Mayonnaise ~egg yolk emulsifies the oil and the water Used in salons: Haircolor, shampoos, conditioners, hand creams, and facial creams www.cachebeauty.com/Body_Drench/body_drench_t... www.stuff4beauty.com/images2/socolor.jpg

37. Water-in-oil emulsions ~ water emulsified in oil * feels greasy ex. Cold cream, styling creams, foot balms 2.bp.blogspot.com/.../UcgK1KtniDk/s320/ponds.jpg riggas.com/images/hydrating300.jpg

38. Other Physical Mixtures • Ointments, pastes, pomades, and styling waxes-semi solid mixtures • Made with petroleum jelly, oil, and wax • Off-the-Scalp powdered lighteners are physical mixtures

39. Other common product ingredients are: Volatile alcohols ~ evaporate easily * isopropyl alcohol (rubbing) *ethyl (hairspray) Fatty alcohols: (nonvolatile alcohol waxes) cetyl alcohol cetearyl alcohol *Skin and hair conditioners www.getprice.com.au/.../851/350__1_1499052-1.jpg

40. Alkanolamines ~ neutralize acids ~ raise pH of products ~ used in place of ammonia * less odor www.salonsupplies.co.uk/dyn/product/large_pro...

41. Ammonia ~ raises pH in products ~ allows solution to penetrate hair shaft ex. Ammonium hydroxide (chemical relaxer) ammonium thioglycolate (perm solution)

42. Glycerin ~ moisturizer in skin and body creams Silicones ~ type of oil in conditioners and skin, nail products ~ less greasy ~ does not cause comedones ~ silky smooth feel on skin ~ shine to hair www.thebeautyshoppe.com/Products/Images/power...

43. Volatile organic compounds (VOC’s) ~ evaporate very quickly ex. Hairspray * SD alcohol (ethyl alcohol) Volatile organic solvents *ethyl acetate *isopropyl alcohols Ex. Nail polish, base and top coats polish removers dailyvitamin.typepad.com/.a/6a010536308b66970...

44. Potential Hydrogen (pH) • small p =quantity • capital H =the hydrogen ion • Add to the side bar: potential hydrogen • Understanding pH • ~ affects hair, skin, and nails • ~ all salon services

45. Water and pH Ion ~ an atom or molecule ~ carries an electrical charge Ionization ~ separation of an atom or molecule ~into positive and negative electrical charges Hairstraightening.net

46. Anion ~ ion ~ negative electrical charge Cation ~ ion ~ positive electrical charge

47. Acid 1 4 Water molecules ionize ~ hydrogen ions ~ hydroxide ions pH scale measures these ions Hydrogen ions are acidic Hydroxide ions are alkaline (base) Neutral Alkaline 14 www.blobs.org/science/chemistry/ph1.gif www.brooklyn.cuny.edu/.../dissociation.gif

48. *only products that contain water can have a pH Add: oil and wax cannot be dissolved with water (no pH) *pure water is neutral pH -equal balance of acid and alkaline

49. The pH Scale • measures • ~ acidity (below 7 acidic) • ~ alkalinity (base) of a substance • (above 7 alkaline)

50. Range from 0-14 • pH of 7 is a neutral solution Next slide:everyday foods/products