Chapter 8 Hair Analysis

1. Chapter 8 Hair Analysis Hair analysis is performed by observation, uses the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. The four most important factors to consider are texture, porosity, elasticity and density. Other factors include natural growth pattern and degree of oiliness or dryness

2. Hair Texture • Thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand ( compare a thin rope to a thick rope or a piece of thread to a piece of yarn ) • Coarse – largest diameter; stronger than fine hair; usually requires more processing time & may be resistant to processing

3. Hair Texture • Medium – most common and is considered normal; does not pose any special problems. It is thinner than coarse hair and thicker than fine hair • Fine – smallest diameter & is more fragile; easier to process; more susceptible to damage

4. Hair Density • Measures the number of individual hair strands on one square inch of the scalp • Low – thin hair • Medium – average or normal • High – dense or thick hair • Average – 2200 hairs/square inch, average head of hair contains about 100,000 individual hairs strands. Number varies by hair color

5. Hair Density • Blonde – 140,000 hairs • Brown – 110,000 hairs • Black – 108,000 hairs • Red – 80,000 hairs

6. Porosity • Ability of the hair to absorb moisture; directly related to condition of the cuticle layer • Low porosity – considered resistant; require more alkalinity in solutions • Average porosity – normal hair; chemical services will normally process as expected • High porosity – overly porous; often the result of over-processing; is damaged, dry, fragile, & brittle. Chemical services require less alkaline solutions w/a lower pH to prevent additional over processing

7. Elasticity • The ability of the hair to stretch & return to its original length without breaking. It indicates the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair’s individual fibers in place • Normal elasticity – will stretch up to 50% of its original length when wet • Low elasticity – hair is brittle & breaks easily; will not hold a curl; the result of weak side bonds, probably as a result of over-procecssing

8. Growth patterns • Hair stream • Hair flowing in the same direction; result of follicles sloping in the same direction. Two streams flowing in opposite directions create a natural part • Whorl • Hair that forms a circular pattern, as on the crown • Cowlick • A tuft of hair that stands straight up; can be found anywhere but are more noticeable on the hairline

9. Dry hair & scalp • Caused by inactive sebaceous glands; aggravated by dry winter or desert climate • Appears dull, dry, lifeless • Avoid frequent shampooing • Also avoid strong soaps, detergents, or products w/high alcohol content

10. Oily hair & scalp • Caused by overactive sebaceous glands; characterized by greasy building on scalp & oily coating on hair • Clarifying shampoos help • Well-balanced diet • Exercise • Regular, frequent shampooing • Good personal hygiene. Avoid strong soaps, detergents, or products w/high content

11. Summary • In performing a hair analysis we use sight, touch, hearing and smell • Texture, porosity, elasticity & density are considered the most important factors in the analysis of hair Next lesson – hair growth