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Coastal Processes and Landforms: A Comprehensive Overview

Explore the dynamics of beaches, shoreline movement, erosion, and deposition along coasts. Learn about sea level changes, barrier islands, and coastal stabilization methods.

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Coastal Processes and Landforms: A Comprehensive Overview

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  1. Chapter 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Essentials of Oceanography 7th Edition

  2. Landforms and terminology in coastal regions Figure 10-1

  3. Movement of sand on the beach • Movement perpendicular (↕) to shoreline • Caused by breaking waves • Light wave activity moves sand up the beach face toward the berm • Heavy wave activity moves sand down the beach face to the longshore bars • Produces seasonal changes in the beach

  4. Light versus heavy wave activity

  5. Summertime and wintertime beach conditions Summertime beach Wintertime beach Figure 10-2

  6. Movement of sand on the beach • Movement parallel (↔) to shoreline • Caused by wave refraction (bending) • Each wave transports sand either upcoast or downcoast • Huge volumes of sand are moved within the surf zone • The beach resembles a “river of sand”

  7. Longshore current and longshore drift • Longshore current = zigzag movement of water in the surf zone • Longshore drift = movement of sediment caused by longshore current Figure 10-3b

  8. Features of erosional shores • Headland • Wave-cut cliff • Sea cave • Sea arch • Sea stack • Marine terrace Figure 10-4

  9. Sea stack and sea arch, Oregon

  10. Features of depositional shores • Spit • Bay barrier • Tombolo • Barrier island • Delta Figure 10-7

  11. Barrier island, New Jersey Figure 10-9c

  12. Formation of barrier islands • Sea level rose after the last Ice Age • Caused barrier islands to roll toward shore like a tractor’s tread Figure 10-10

  13. Beach compartments in southern California • Beach compartments include: • Rivers • Beaches • Submarine canyons Figure 10-12

  14. Evidence of emerging and submerging shorelines • Emergent features: • Marine terraces • Stranded beach deposits • Submergent features: • Drowned beaches • Submerged dune topography • Drowned river valleys Figure 10-13

  15. Changes in sea level • Sea level has changed throughout time • Tectonic and isostatic movements are localized and change the level of the land • Eustatic changes cause sea level to rise or fall worldwide and are produced by: • Changes in seawater volume • Changes in ocean basin capacity

  16. Sea level has risen since the last Ice Age • Sea level was 120 meters (400 feet) lower during the last Ice Age • About 18,000 years ago, sea level began to rise as the glacial ice melted Figure 10-14

  17. Relative sea level rise at New York City • Sea level has risen 40 centimeters (16 inches) since 1850 • Global warming is predicted to increase the rate of sea level rise Figure 10-15

  18. U.S. coastal erosion and deposition Figure 10-16

  19. Types of hard stabilization • Hard stabilization perpendicular to the coast within the surf zone: • Jetties—protect harbor entrances • Groins—designed to trap sand • Hard stabilization parallel to the coast: • Breakwaters—built beyond the surf zone • Seawalls—built to armor the coast

  20. Jetties and Groins • Jetties are always in pairs • Groins can be singular or many (groin field) • Both trap sand upstream and cause erosion downstream Figure 10-21

  21. Breakwater at Santa Barbara Harbor, California • Provides a boat anchorage • Causes deposition in harbor and erosion downstream • Sand must be dredged regularly Figure 10-22

  22. Seawalls and beaches • Seawalls are built to reduce erosion on beaches • Seawalls can destroy recreational beaches • Seawalls are costly and eventually fail Figure 10-24

  23. Seawall damage in Leucadia, California Figure 10-25

  24. Alternatives to hard stabilization • Restrict the building of structures too close to the shore • Eliminate programs that encourage construction in unsafe locations • Relocate structures as erosion threatens them Relocation of the Cape Hatteras lighthouse, North Carolina Figure 10C

  25. End of Chapter 10 Essentials of Oceanography 7th Edition

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