Epic Journey West: Lewis and Clark's Expedition

IMAGINE THIS: * Your arms are numb from fighting the raging current of the Missouri River for eight hours each day; Your life and the lives of every member of the expedition are threatened by hostile Native Americans; * You’ve endured a winter in which soul-piercing temperatures regularly fell to -45 Fahrenheit, not including the wind; Vicious animals such as Grizzly Bears and rattlesnakes and thundering herds of Buffalo were constant threats; * Torrential rains threatened to wash out the expedition and rock-sized hailstones relentlessly pounded on you from above Scorching temperatures during arduous summer portages tested every fiber of your being; * Fleas, lice, and dense swarms of mosquitoes sucked away your blood; Needle-sharp spines from pesky prickly pears, seemingly destined to pierce your feet did their job and destroyed your moccasins at the same time; * Miles and miles of towering snow-capped mountains stood in your way. Crossing them would result in frostbite, near-starvation, and the hopeless realization that the ranges might never end, and you may die, lost forever among the rocky peaks and snowdrifts. * Finally, after you managed to survive and endure all of the hardships and physical and mental challenges, and at the climax of an epic journey, you spend an entire winter devoid of sunshine, soaked by an unrelenting, cold rain in a 50 square foot, fetid cabin with at least 40 other people.

Sounds like an EPIC dystopian novel or movie RIGHT? This journey was every bit as amazing as those from the Hunger Games or Divergent, except it was real. This was the reality of any of the 42 members of the Corps of Discovery in the Lewis and Clark adventure. Can you imagine? The 1804-1806 Lewis and Clark journey was a real-life adventure story that could rival any in fiction or non-fiction today. It is a story of adventure and discovery, of reunion and redemption, and perseverance and innovation. Over the course of two years (28 months), William Clark, Meriwether Lewis and 40 other pioneers traversed and mapped the unexplored Louisiana Territory by boat and by foot and documented over 300 new species of animals and plants as well as numerous Native American groups. Miraculously, only one member of the Corps of Discovery died during the two-year journey, and he most likely died of a burst appendix early in the journey.

THE EPIC JOURNEY WEST Lewis was chosen by Thomas Jefferson to explore the western lands acquired in the Louisiana Purchase. Lewis then turned to William Clark to accompany him and to recruit members who would be beneficial to the expedition. Together, the travelers would be referred to as the Corps of Discovery. Goals of the expedition included charting new animals and plants, documenting the different Native American groups of the regions, and, to find a water passage to the Pacific Ocean known as the Northwest Passage. Lewis and Clark in St. Louis

Into the Wild Approximately 800 miles traveled

Into the Wild…Continued Amazingly, Floyd’s death would prove to be the ONLY death on the entire two-year expedition! On August 3rd, the Corps encountered Native Americans for the first time – the Yankton Sioux in the Great Plains, near present-day Omaha, Nebraska. The Yankton Sioux were presented with various medals and flags and were told of their "Great Father to the East," Thomas Jefferson. On August 20th, Kentucky frontiersman Charles Floyd died, most likely from a burst appendix brought on by appendicitis. A funeral for Floyd was held on a bluff overlooking the Missouri River. The location was named Floyd’s Bluff in his honor. Although appendicitis is usually diagnosed by doctors today before the appendix bursts, in Floyd’s time, appendicitis was invariably fatal.

Teton Sioux Territory Approximately 1,200 miles traveled

Teton Sioux Territory…Continued For three more anxious days, the expedition stayed with the tribe, where there were celebrations, misunderstandings, and an overall lack of communication, as neither side properly understood the other. During this time, William Clark took detailed notes about the Teton Sioux, remarking that they were generally thin and ill-looking in appearance. He also took notes describing a "scalp dance" performed by the tribe after a war victory over the rival Omaha's. • American Bison in South Dakota

The Mandans Approximately 1,600 miles traveled Following the tensions in Teton territory, the Corps traveled northwest along the Missouri River. On October 24, 1804, the Corps reached the villages of the Mandan Sioux near present-day Bismarck, North Dakota called Mitutanka and Nuptadi. It was here, across the river from Mitutanka that the Corps decided to set up winter camp ahead of the icing of the Missouri River, which they called Fort Mandan. Ice on the river would become so thick during the Dakota winter, that herds of buffalo could safely cross. In addition, temperatures during the Dakota winter could drop to -45 Fahrenheit, which caused several members of the expedition to develop frostbite. Fort Mandan was constructed of cottonwood lumber cut from the banks of the river. Triangular in shape, the fort was built with high walls, open spaces between buildings, and with a gate facing the river. On the return trip, the expedition found that Fort Mandan had been burned to the ground. The Mandans were familiar with European traders who had visited the region to trade for Mandan corn for generations. The Mandan Sioux, however, were not used to seeing African-Americans and were mesmerized by Meriwether Lewis’ African-American slave York, whom they believed had great spiritual powers.

The Mandans…Continued The Corps quickly established peaceful relations with the Mandans and also attempted to broker peace between the Mandans and the Arikaras, who lived nearby. The Mandan Sioux provided the Corps with food throughout the bitter winter in exchange for trade goods such as metal objects, pots, and other trinkets. It was during the winter of 1804-1805, that Lewis and Clark hired French-Canadian fur trapper Toussaint Charbonneau and his Shoshone wife, Sacagawea, to translate for them as they turned west toward the mountains. On February 11, Sacagawea gave birth to a son named Jean Baptiste who would travel with the expedition on his mother’s back. To this point, communication with local natives had been difficult at best and at worst had threatened the entire expedition. During the winter, Lewis and Clark spent much of their time writing in their journals and documenting the flora and fauna they had observed or collected. 108 plant specimens and 68 mineral specimens were sent via keelboat to St. Louis, Missouri, where they’d next be delivered to Thomas Jefferson, who waited eagerly for such deliveries. In the spring, when the torrential rains and warming temperatures melted the ice on the river, the Corps bade their Mandan hosts farewell and continued the journey along the Missouri.

Grizzly Country Approximately 1,900 miles traveled As Lewis and Clark continued west, they were dazzled by the wildlife they saw, including a herd of buffalo estimated to contain over 10,000 animals. The Mandan Sioux had warned them of an enormous animal they called the “white bear,” whom they only dared to hunt in groups of six to ten warriors. The Corps was eager to encounter such an animal and fell such a formidable beast. On April 29, 1805, the Corps killed its first Grizzly Bear, an immature weighing only 300 pounds. Lewis, far from impressed by the kill, wrote in his journal that while such bears may be hard to kill with bows and arrows, they were no match for skilled riflemen. On May 5, 1805, Meriwether Lewis came upon the largest bear he’d ever seen, somewhere near the border of modern-day North Dakota and Montana. Lewis estimated the Grizzly Bear to weigh at least 600 pounds and called it “a very large and turrible animal.” According to his journal, it took at least ten gunshots to finally fell the bear. Lewis considered the Grizzly Bear the largest carnivorous animal he had ever seen.

Great Falls of the Missouri Approximately 2,600 miles traveled • On May 31, 1805, the Corps sailed past what is now known as the "White Cliffs of the Missouri," beautiful sandstone formations that resemble the ruins of an ancient city. Lewis wrote: • Three days later, the Corps sailed to a fork in the Missouri River, which they named the Marias River after one of Meriwether Lewis’ cousins. After some initial confusion regarding which of the forks was the true Missouri River, the Corps chose the northernmost fork, which proved to be accurate. • Eleven days later, Lewis beheld the Great Falls of the Missouri River, which he declared, " The grandest site [he]ever saw." While the falls were beautiful, there was no easy way for the expedition to get through them. The Corps was forced to make an arduous portage of more than eighteen miles around the falls.

Great Falls of the Missouri…Continued The portage would prove to be one of the most difficult ordeals of the entire journey. Many in the Corps were forced to make the journey while sick, and most were plagued by swarms of mosquitoes and cactus-like plants called prickly pears, the spines of which constantly stuck in the feet of the travelers. Wild animals such as rattlesnakes, bears, mountain lions, and even wolverines were also a constant source of worry. William Clark, Toussaint Charbonneau, Sacagawea, and her baby were nearly drowned by a sudden, torrential storm that hurled large hailstones on them. Eventually, the Corps successfully moved all equipment and supplies via foot or wagon in scorching heat, around the falls, through rocky, unforgiving terrain. In his journal, Lewis praised his men for their toughness through such adversity: They are obliged to halt and rest frequently for a few minute. At every halt these poor fellow tumble down and are so much fortiegued that many of them are asleep in an instant. In short their fatiegues are incredible; some are limping from the soreness of their feet, others faint and unable to stand for a few minutes, with heat and fatiegue, yet no one complains. All go with cheerfulness.

Shoshone Country Approximately 2,900 miles traveled In July of 1805, Lewis, Clark and the Corps of Discovery sailed west toward the mountains until they came to the three forks of the Missouri River. Lewis and Clark named them the Gallatin, the Madison, and the Jefferson. The Corps decided that taking the Jefferson fork was the best course of action, although it was shallow and proved difficult to navigate. Before long, Sacagawea began to recognize landmarks that she associated with her old village before she was sold to Charbonneau as a prisoner of war. On August 8, 1805, Sacagawea spotted Beaverhead Rock and informed Lewis and Clark that they were near the headwaters of the Missouri River and the location of Shoshone tribe. Lewis wrote in this journal: The Indian woman recognized the point of a high plain to our right which she informed us was not very distant from the summer retreat of her nation on a river beyond the mountains which runs to the west. this hill she says her nation calls the beaver’s head from a conceived re[se]mblance of it’s figure to the head of that animal. she assures us that we shall either find her people on this river or on the river immediately west of it’s source; which from it’s present size cannot be distant. as it is now all important with us to meet with those people as soon as possible I determined to proceed tomorrow with a small party to the source of the principal stream of this river and pass the mountains to the Columbia;

Shoshone Country…Continued Lewis decided to scout ahead on land with three men in the hopes of finding the tribe and their horses. Upon crossing Lemhi Pass (on the present-day border between Montana and Idaho), Lewis expected to see the passage that had tantalized explorers since the 1500’s – The Northwest Passage. Instead, all he saw were more mountains. Nevertheless, the Corps discovered the Shoshone village. Lewis and Clark were hopeful they could negotiate the acquisition of horses so the quest through the mountains could continue. When negotiations began, the Shoshone chief, Cameahwait recognized Sacagawea as his sister! The negotiations turned out to be successful.

The Bitterroots Approximately 3,100 miles traveled Now that the Corps had acquired horses and supplies, from the Shoshone, they could begin the difficult task of trekking over cliffs and mountains. As expected, the trip was treacherous. The horses were in constant danger of slipping on the narrow routes atop tall cliffs. There were virtually no animals to hunt, and the expedition ran out of salt pork on September 3rd. During their trip through the mountains, the Corps would cross over the Continental Divide, the point at which river and streams flow westward toward the Pacific. Once they could get back on the water, their trip to the Pacific Ocean would be easier because they’d be sailing with the current. Eventually, the Corps made it to the valley of the Bitterroots, where they were able to trade for more horses with the Nez Perce Indians before attempting to cross the Bitterroots. On September 10, the Corps rested at a location known as Traveler’s Rest, where they collected badly needed game as well as three Nez Perce natives who agreed to guide them over the Bitterroots.

The Bitterroots…Continued Unfortunately for the Corps of Discovery, two guides abandoned them. The guide that remained with them, called Old Toby, attempted to lead the Corps through the Bitterroots via the Nez Perce Trail but became confused and disoriented. In the meantime, rain, hail, and as much as eight inches of snow fell upon the travelers. On September 17, several starving horses strayed from the camp. It took all morning to round them up. The men too were starving and near the limits of their physical endurance. The Corps resorted to eating the horses – but soon there were no more horses to eat. William Clark and several hunters were sent ahead to the plains in the hopes of finding game to send back to the main camp. After four days, one of the hunters returned to the main camp with fish and dried roots obtained by Clark from the Nez Perce Indians. That evening Clark and the rest of the hunters returned to camp.

The Bitterroots…Continued Clark returned with vital information. He had met a Nez Perce chief named Twisted Hair who described the waterways that led to the falls of the Columbia River (the river the Corps knew led to the Pacific). The chief told Clark it was a ten day trip from his village to the destination. Twisted Hair also showed Clark how to make canoes also called pirogues, more efficiently and agreed to watch the horses until they returned the following spring. Statues of Lewis, Clark, and Twisted Hair at Traveler’s Rest near Boise, Idaho

The Columbia Approximately 3,300 miles traveled On October 7, 1805, the Corps of Discovery, with newly built canoes, emerged from the towering Bitterroots and set sail with a westward current along the Clearwater River. On October 10, the Corps reached the Snake River, before reaching the Columbia River on October 16th. The Corps then sailed with the Columbia, stopping to portage around treacherous portions of the Cascades Range, the last of the mountains between them and the Pacific Ocean. On November 7, 1805, Meriwether Lewis thought he saw the Pacific Ocean. In reality, it was the estuary of the Columbia. By the time they realized their actual location, the weather had turned. Bad weather and high waters trapped the Corps at Point Ellice. Overhanging rocks made it impossible for them to travel anywhere, including to hunt. Luckily, they were able to trade for food with the local Clatsop Indians, who were able to cross the estuary in their heavy coastal canoes. Finally, on November 15, 1805, Lewis and Clark saw the Pacific Ocean. This observation confirmed that the Northwest Passage, the discovery of which was one of the central points of the entire journey, did not exist.

The Columbia…Continued Nevertheless, Lewis and Clark established a "station camp" situated near a Chinook fishing village that had been abandoned for the winter. The Corps spent ten days at the station camp fishing, hunting, and trading with Chinook and Clatsop peoples. At nearby Cape Disappointment, one of the members of the Corps killed a "remarkably large buzzard" feeding on a whale carcass. This buzzard was undoubtedly a California Condor, one of America’s most endangered animals. The California Condor, once common along the entirety of the west coast, is only found today in a small portion of eastern California and Arizona. On November 20th, the camp was visited by a pair of important Chinook chiefs, who traded otter-fur robes for a belt of blue beads worn by Sacagawea. The Chinook were used to trading with Whites and had become skilled negotiators. Lewis remarked in his journal that many Chinook seemed afflicted with "European-introduced" diseases such as Smallpox. Nearly 75% of the Chinook nation would be dead in the next two decades of Smallpox and other European diseases.

Fort Clatsop Approximately 3,600 miles traveled The winter of 1805-1806 was miserable in the Pacific Northwest. The men worked through a constant rain to build Fort Clatsop – two rough cabins about fifty feet in length that would hold 32 men, one woman, one baby and a dog. Lewis, Clark, Sacagawea, Charbonneau, and baby Jean Baptiste would stay in one cabin, while the remainder of the Corps lived in the other. The Corps stayed at Fort Clatsop for four months hunting the small elk population that lived near the estuary, making clothes from elk hide, trying desperately to make fires with wet wood, and engaging in laborious tasks to keep up the maintenance of the fort in the wake of constant wet conditions. According to one traveler, there were only twelve rainless days the entire winter! The constant rain led many in the Corps to contract colds and flus and others, including Meriwether Lewis, to become depressed. Meriwether Lewis was, however, able to document the region’s plant and animal life as well as the Native Americans who lived there. William Clark worked on drafting the map of lands they had explored, including one that traced their path all of the way from Fort Mandan to Fort Clatsop, which would be valuable to future travelers. Fort Clatsop Replica near Astoria, Oregon

Fort Clatsop…Continued Meriwether Lewis was, however, able to document the region’s plant and animal life as well as the Native Americans who lived there. William Clark worked on drafting the map of lands they had explored, including one that traced their path all of the way from Fort Mandan to Fort Clatsop, which would be valuable to future travelers. On March 23, 1806, the Corps finally left Fort Clatsop for the long trip back to Missouri.

The Return Trip On March 23rd, 1806, Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery left Fort Clatsop and traveled east against the current of the Columbia River. They took the punishing Nez Perce Trail through seven feet of snow across the Bitterroots. At Traveler’s Rest, Lewis and Clark split up for the purposes of adding to the knowledge they had already gathered. Lewis followed the overland route traditionally taken by the Nez Perce to their buffalo hunting grounds. It led to the Great Falls of the Missouri River. From the Great Falls, Lewis planned to take three men on an expedition to explore the Marias River. Clark and the others would take the same route in which they came until they came to the Three Forks. At the Three Forks, Clark, Sacagawea, Charbonneau, and their baby would cross the valley of the Yellowstone River, which they would follow to the Missouri. Lewis’ division was nearly destroyed by a band of Blackfoot Indians who tried to steal their weapons. In the ensuing struggle, two natives were killed, and the division was forced to flee before a larger band of natives were to chase them. Lewis’ division traveled nearly 100 miles in a period of 24 hours before meeting up with Clark and the rest of the Corps on August 12. The Corps returned to St. Louis on September 23, 1806 as heroes.

Epic Journey West: Lewis and Clark's Expedition