Chapter 9

1. Chapter 9 Circular fabric knitting

2. 9.1 Weft knitted fabric production纬编织物的生产 Classification: single jersey double jersey • needles knitted with underwear fabrics • pelerine eyelet fabrics/菠萝网眼 • sinker wheel mesh structures/吊机网眼 • float plated fabrics/浮线添纱 • application speciality fabrics • high pile fabrics/长毛绒 • plush fabrics/毛圈

3. Production flow: • knitting • finishing • conversion of fabric into articles of apparel/服装or other end-usages

4. In post-knitting handling/编织后处理operations: The fabric must be maintained in as relaxed/松弛and tension-free/无张力a state as possible, in order to reduce the problems caused by dimensional distortion/变形and shrinkage/收缩.

5. 9.2 Single- and double-jersey compared 单双面针织物的比较 The single jersey machines have a simpler construction, are easier to supervise and maintain, have higher running speeds and more feeders, and knit a greater range of structures with a wider tolerance of yarn counts. The double jersey fabrics have dimensional stability/尺寸稳定性, structural breakdown, air porosity/孔隙率and snagging of floating threads.

6. 9.3 Simple tuck and float stitch single-jersey fabrics 带有集圈和浮线的单面织物 Some simple single-jersey fabrics:

7. A loop diagram of hopsack/衬垫: It’s stability and appearance make it popular as a ladies suiting fabric when knitting staple spun yarns.

8. Invisible fleecy/添纱衬垫: It overcomes the problem that the lay-in yarns tend to grin through onto the technical face in 2×2 inlay.

9. 9.4 Non-jacquard double-jersey structures 非提花双面针织物 • Interlock variation structures/双罗纹复合组织 • Rib variation structures /罗纹型复合组织

10. Interlock variation structures Single pique/单凹凸or cross tuck interlock /单面交错集圈双罗纹 • place tuck cams in the dial at every third feeder • break up the surface uniformity • help to mask feeder stripiness/横路 • increase fabric weight

11. Interlock variation structures Texi pique/双面凹凸 Cross miss/双罗纹半空气层 Piquette/双罗纹空气层

12. Interlock variation structures Jersey cord/双罗纹凸条 ---an example of a miss bourrelet/双罗纹浮线横楞织物 Super Roma/超级罗马 ---its equivalent in tuck bourrelet/双罗纹集圈横楞

13. Interlock variation structures Cortina/六路双罗纹空气层 It is a six feed version produced on interlock camming with run-through cams where missing is required.

14. Interlock variation structures Evermonte/双罗纹集圈空气层 The tuck stitches produce a slight ripple effect/波纹效果. Punto di Roma/蓬托地罗马,双罗纹空气层 It has replaced double pique as the most popular non-jacquard double jersey structure.

15. Rib variation structures Milano Rib /米拉诺罗纹,罗纹空气层 • greater extensibility and width • danger of a yarn breakage • particularly used in the production of fashioned collars/时装领

16. Rib variation structures Double pique/双凹凸 How to produce on interlock machine: • Changing from interlock to rib gating. • Changing dial cam systems 2 and 3 over in every four-feed sequence. • Placing all long needles only in the cylinder if Swiss double pique/瑞士点纹is required, or all short needles only if French double pique/法式点纹is required.

17. Rib variation structures Gabardine---- a simple 2×2 twill ‘double-blister’/ 2×2斜纹双胖织物 Poplin/罗纹变化平针复合织物---- a type of single blister/单胖组织

18. Rib variation structures Double-blister structures 双胖结构 • two blister feeder courses between each ground feeder course • heavier and slower rate of production

19. Rib variation structures Single-blister structures /单胖结构 All blister structures show only the ground loops on the back.

20. Rib variation structures Quilted structures/绗缝织物 They are types of blister fabrics where blister yarn knitting occurs on a large number of adjacent cylinder needles so that enclosed pockets, or quilts, are formed.

21. Rib variation structures Tuck lace or mock transfer /蜂巢网眼双面布 The tucks produce a ‘semi-breakthrough’ effect by displacing the wales of the dial side.

22. 9.5 Double-jersey inlay 双面衬纬 On double-jersey machines, laying-in may be achieved by the tunnel inlay/浮线衬纬technique. The inlay is strapped as an almost straight horizontal yarn inside the fabric, behind the cylinder and dial face loops.

23. The alternative to tunnel inlay is to use a knitting feeder for inlay by missing and tucking in one or both needle beds. Texi pique is an example but, as tucking occurs on both beds and the cylinder needles are full gauged, the inlay is hidden inside the structure.

24. 9.6 The modern circular fabric knitting machine 现代圆机 • the stop motions • /自停装置 • the tape positive feed • /条带式积极喂纱 • the cylinder needle cam system • the automatic lubrication system/自动润滑系统

25. start, stop and inching buttons/寸行按钮 • the cam-driven fabric winding down mechanism • the revolution counters • /转数表 • lint blower/吹飞花装置

26. 9.7 The ‘contra’ knitting technique相对编织技术 The sinkers move vertically down, in opposition to the needles rise to clearing height, and rise as the needles descend to knock-over. This considerably reduces the extent of the needle movement.

27. 9.8 Circular-machine production calculations 圆机生产计算 • 9.8.1 Machine speed 机速 The speed of a circular machine may be expressed in three ways: • Machine revolutions per minute/机器转速 • Circumferential speed in metres per second/圆周速度 • Speed factor (rpm × diameter in inches)/速度因素

28. 9.8.2 Number of feeds 路数 The number of feeds can be expressed as a total for a particular cylinder diameter or as the number of feeds per inch of the cylinder diameter, in which case the total number of feeds for any cylinder diameter in that particular range of machinery can then be calculated.

29. 9.8.3 Speed of fabric production 针织物产量 The speed of fabric formation expressed in linear metres per hour is equal to (speed of machine in rpm × percent efficiency/生产效率× number of knitting feeders × 60 minutes) ÷ (number of feeds per face course/每横列所需路数× face courses per cm/每厘米横列数× 100).