Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo

1. What is new since ITMA 2003? New Fibers: CEF (XLA, Lastol), PLA (Ingeo). New Machines: hardly anything new. Trends? Ongoing Developments? New Faces: SwissTex, Oerlikon. New Markets: India, China. Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 1

2. Lastol: Attack on Spandex Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 2

3. Conventional Polyolefines and Lastol Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 3

4. Facts and consequences of this new fiber •  Low cost raw material: Polyolefins are consumer plastics, polyurethanes are technial plastics. •  Simple process technology: Lastol is melt spun, spandex is solution spun. •  Strong and determined supplier: DOW has a perfect history as an industrial supplier (comparable to DuPont). •  Dyeing processes in practical application still in development. •  Not a drop-in replacement for Spandex. • Melt spun Spandex will be squeezed in between traditional Spandex and Lastol. • Core spinning will remain the core technology for elastic spun yarns (and fabrics). • Primary advantage is cost. Quality and processability issues will be difficult to leverage on the textile market. Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 4

5. Ingeo: Compete with cotton, head-on against wool, substitute Nylon Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 5

6. Ingeo: a new benchmark for elastic yarns and fabrics Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 6

7. Facts and consequences of this new fiber •  Natural ressources different to cotton, less demanding than wool. •  Mass market as a target  cotton type staple fiber for introduction. •  Strong and determined supplier: Cargill has a perfect history as an agricultural supplier. •  Spun yarn has average tenacity, breaking elongation = 5 x b.e. of cotton yarn. •  Not a drop-in replacement for cotton. Dyeing affords disperse or direct dyes. • Will enable totally new processes for elastic yarns and fabrics, likely to make core spinning redundant. • Limited experience in spinning processes. • Primary advantage is the intrinsic elasticity. Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 7

8. Cotton Spinning Processes: Development in the past years Quality (Fineness) Compact Spinning Rieter Pot Spinning Ring Spinning Rieter, Oerlikon Air Jet/ Vortex Spinning Muratec (Rieter?) Savio, Rieter Rotona Oerlikon, Rieter OE Rotor Spinning Friction Spinning Volume (Machine capacity) Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 8

9. Cotton Spinning Processes: Trends and Markets Quality (Fineness) Europe USA Compact Spinning Ring Spinning Asia Air Jet/ Vortex Spinning OE Rotor Spinning Friction Spinning Volume (Machine capacity) Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 9

10. Cotton Spinning Processes: Waiting for disruptive innovation • Ring spinning: Individual driven spindles will be more effective in cost and energy consumption. • Rotor spinning: Straight-through fiber flow will provide a clean twisted yarn structure, not to distiguish from ring yarn. • New surface properties of chemical fibers will enable to spin almost twistless yarn with unprecedented softness. Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 10

11. Schlafhorst: Autocoro 360 Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 11

12. Schlafhorst: BD380 with hollow rotor shaft Twisted-in „Core“-Yarn Spandex Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 12

13. Rieter: Striving for maximum production • Blowroom for 1600 kg/h • Card C60 up to 220 kg/h • Coming with E75 at up to 68 kg/h • Ring spinning / compact spinning with 1632 spindles • Rotor spinning with 440 rotors and up to 4 piecer robots Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 13

14. Savio: Early attempt at friction spinning Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 14

15. Schlafhorst: Pot spinning, 1990 … 2000 Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 15

16. Volkmann: OE-Spinning/Twisting Box Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 16

17. Rieter: Air Jet Spinning Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 17

18. Muratec: State of technology in Air Jet Spinning Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 18

19. What to expect of ITMA 2007: Prof. Dr. Urs Meyer, ETH Zurigo/Università di Bergamo Pre-ITMA Convegno, Dalmine, Luglio 2007 Fibre e Filatura 19