Sportswear

1. Sportswear Second paper – Tuesday June 22nd 10 marks.

2. Product Analysis Theme for 2010: ‘SPORTSWEAR’ Papers 3 and 4 will contain a compulsory product analysis question set on the theme: ‘Sportswear’. To assist students in their preparation for this examination, it is suggested that the following aspects of ‘Sportswear’ are considered: • Fabrics and fibres used for sportswear. • Performance characteristics of fabrics and fibres. • Functional and aesthetic design features ofsportswear. • Design features of winter sportswear.

4. Performance characteristics of fibres and fabrics used for Sportswear • Every fibre and fabric construction has difference performance characteristics (what they do) It is useful to know what these are so that you can choose the best fibre and fabric construction for the product you are designing. • If you consider what happens when playing sports you can decide which fibres and fabrics are best to make sportswear.

5. What happens when you play sports? • Move easily. • Get hot • Get cold • Sweat • Sweat can lead to you getting cold • Get dirty • Rubbing/chaffing • Possible falls, knocks etc. • It might rain, windy, sunny, snowy. • Day and night visibility • You might need keys or money

6. Fibres and Fabrics often used for sportswear • The following fibres and fabrics are usually used for sportwear due to their performance characteristics. • You need to know what these are and why it makes them suitable for sportswear.

7. Polyester Performance characteristics • Abrasion resistant – durable and hardwearing • Non Absorbant – Doesn’t soak up sweat but is resistant to rain • Crease resistant – Reduces ironing, good for clothes in sports bag • Reasonable insulator – keeps heat in quite well • Moth and mildew resistant – won’t rot if left damp • Resistant to acids – sweat is an acid • Collects static – not good if rubbing against other fabrics • Strong

8. Nylon (Polyamide) Performance characteristics • Strong • Elastic so stretches • Does not absorb water • Crease resistant • Durable – hardwearing • Not very warm to wear.

9. Cotton • Strong • Not very elastic so doesn’t stretch • Absorbent –soaks up water. • Creases easily • Durable

10. Lycra / Elastane • Very elastic so stretches well. • Crease resistant • Durable so hardwearing • Medium strength • Not very absorbent so doesn’t soak up sweat • Usually combined with other fibres to make a stretchy, form fitting fabric.

11. Weft Knitting • Loops linked to rows above and below. • Insulating – traps air in-between loops • Warm • Stretches – loops extend • Unravels and forms ladders • Crease resistant Flatbed kniting Hand knitting Circular knitting

12. Warp Knitting • Loops are linked together from side to side. • Can be made to be firm or stretchy • Fast way to produce fabric • Does not ladder • Can be designed and made to many different constructions so suitable for technical sports wear. • Very popular way to make sports fabrics Warp knitting machine

13. Knitting • Different textures can be created as there are a lot of different stitches. • Patterns can be created by introducing different coloured yarn into the stitches. • Different textured yarns also create pattern and texture. • Computers control knitting machines making it easy to create pattern and shape.

14. Weaving • Strong • Doesn’t stretch • Cool to wear • A close weave will resist water and is hardwearing. • The outer fabric on sports jackets/trousers is usually woven as it won’t stretch out of shape and will resist light showers.

15. Components • Elastic – stretches and grips to shape • Velcro – easy to do up/undo, fibres get stuck in it stopping it working. Not a strong fastening, adjustable. • Toggles- Adjustable, grip cord. • Buckles – Strong, adjustable, decorative. • Reflective ribbon / webbing

16. Flatlock seam When applied to underwear and sportswear, the finished garments will look good and make the wearer feel comfortable. Flat-fell seams A flat-fell seam has the seam allowance tucked under and sewn down with a second row of stitching. It’s useful for reversible garments, sportswear, menswear or where added strength is required.

17. Overlocked seam • Used on knitted products as it stretches with the fabric • Strong – combination of 3 or 4 threads • Neatens seam as cuts off and overstitches raw edge • More expensive than normal lockstitch as more thread used • Complicated to thread machine

18. Fabric Finishes • Brushing – A series of wire covered rollers brush the fabric to raise the fibres to form a pile. Produces a soft fluffy fabric which is warm to wear. The process weakens the fabric and makes it more flamable. Often used for the lining fabric of gloves. • Waterproofing – Silcone is applied to the fabric to form a barrier to water. • Easy care – chemicals applied to the fabric to make it easier to wash and iron. • Anti felting – Wool fibres felt or matt together if not washed properly. Anti felting finishes stop this happening by either softening the scales on the wool so they don’t grip each other or covers the wool with a polymer film to stop the gripping. • Anti bacterial – Products such as Coolmax are applied to fabric to stop bacteria growing on clothes leading to smells. Often used on sportswear. Lasts up to 40 washes.

19. Technological Textiles • Used in sportswear especially winter sports to help athletes cope with extreme weather conditions (cold and warmth) as well as sweating, visibility and fun applications such as electronic textiles where ipods/phones can be integrated into clothing.

20. Goretex • Fabric used in skiwear, hiking jackets etc. • Performance characteristics of Goretex • Durably waterproof • Very breathable • Highly cold resistant • Extremely light • Resistant to flexing

21. Goretex

22. Warm Shell Lightly insulated with brushed fleece or brushed tricot lining, warm shells are designed for variable environments. While slightly less insulated than Descente 40 gram insulation, warm shells provide the perfect balance of temperature for versatile skiers. So whether on the top of a wind chilled 14,000 ft peak or at the base of the mountain on a sun-soaked day, your core temperature will be under control. Thinsulate Insulation Thinsulate insulation Type G are comprised of 100% polyester fiber. Exceptionally soft and luxurious. Traps and holds body heat for superior warmth. Effective even when damp and after repeated washings. Fibres absorb less than 1% of their weight in water and dry easily. Breathable.

23. SOLARSensor Heat Relating Fabric Revolutionary heat retaining material which the carbon particle kneaded into the fiber absorbs the sunlight efficiently and transforms to thermal energy. Polartec® Classic® fabric is a very breathable, quick drying and non-pill fleece material. Wearing a Polartec® Classic® fleece underneath your waterproof enhances the breathability of the garment.

24. Functional and aesthetic design features of sportswear Sportswear Design Specification points • Allows ease of movement – stretches, good fit • Protects from the weather- sun, wind, rain • Easy to get on and off – openings, fastenings • Comfortable to wear - Wicks away sweat, keeps you cool/keeps you warm • Storage for key/ipod/money • Doesn’t rub – flat seam, smooth fabric • Keeps athlete visible in all conditions • Washable

25. Ladies ShortsThe Asics Ladies Eikoku 2 Sprinter is designed for the athlete who likes the support of a tighter fitting short in the style of the modern-day short distance runners. Made from a flexible but highly supportive polyamide/elasthane combo, the sprinter features flatlock stitching, a drawstring waist and key pocket for superb comfort, convenience and durability.

26. The T8 Team Jacket is a very comfortable jacket which features a ForMotion 3D engineered pattern for enhanced fit and performance. The jacket has 2 pockets, a full length zip with storm flap for adjustable ventilation, wind protection and is made from 100% polyester.

27. This jacket offers innovative Pro-Fit technology that creates optimum freedom of movement to the wearer. With its combination of lightweight fabric and stretchable insert panels this jacket enhances comfort and movement during performance. The Top Impact Line Men's jacket features laser cutting detail to keep you cool under pressure while a combination of materials present optimal freedom of movement and quick drying. Benefits: Quick dry Freedom of movement by fit and combination of materials Ventilation at centre back Front and back visibility by reflectivity Construction: Material: Stretch woven Content: 100% Polyester, 121 gr/sqm 2.Material: Woven cubic mesh 2.Content: 100% Polyester, 111 gr/sqm Features: Pro-fit technology, Unlined, Stretch insert panels, Centre front zipper, Raglan sleeve, flat locking, Front pockets, Front pockets, Elasticated cuffs, Chinguard, Laser cutting detail for ventilation, Reflective ASICS logo, Top Impact Line logo.

28. The Men’s Active Run Vest utilises a zonal construction that ensures different anatomical regions of the body have the most suitable fabrications to provide superior performance. This top is ideal for those changeable conditions or for those who feel a full length jacket is too restricting and hinders performance. The front panel features Vapor + fabric that is designed to offer protection against the elements with silicone impregnated water resistant yarn giving maximum protection. Sensormesh utilises a high Lycra content providing enhanced flexibility and a comfortable soft feel. Increased moisture management is achieved via a high filament polyester yarn. SMD Thermo fabric incorporates denier graded tactel yarns for unparalleled moisture management allowing you to concentrate on your rhythm. Extreme mesh panels on the back of the garment create a micro climate to meet the highest demands on your run. 360 degree visibility ensures your safety and confidence when training in the twilight of winter.

29. 'WP' stands for windproof, and ASICS has pulled out all the stops in designing a jacket that is both lightweight and limber, while also capable of stopping a brisk wind. Benefits: Light weight Wind protection knit fabric is anti-bacterial Snag-free Permanent 50+ UPF Wind panel and zipper garage protect from the elements and provide next-to-skin comfort Features: Strategically designed reflectivity results in visibility in most weather conditions Articulated sleeves offer unrestricted movement Security pockets ensure safe storage for media and other valuables

30. Design features of winter sportswear Winter Sportswear has to perform as well as other sportswear but also needs to protect from the cold, snow and wet, protect against falls in difficult conditions and make sure that the wearer is visible in difficult weather and lighting conditions. This all has to be achieved as well as allow the sports person ease of movement, storage for keys, lift pass etc and be easy to get the clothes on and off.

31. Not only is it warm, breathable and waterproof, but it features a detachable snowskirt (so that you can use it as an everyday winter coat), stylish Dare2b design and a detachable hood. Features Fully taped seams Part metallic mesh / part warm touch lining Detachable snow skirt Full length studded and velcro storm baffle Detachable technical hood with adjuster Inner stow pockets

32. Ramskn Stretch Twill fabric, Heatflex 40 Insulation, Airdrive Moisture Control, Ion-Bodies, 20000 Water/Windproof, 4 front exterior pockets, back storage pocket, coin pocket, detachable hood, goggle pocket, head phone loop, phone pocket, pit zippers, powder skirt, zipper poly deck, quick wrist adjuster, side mirror window.

33. Oxkin fabric, Heatflex 40 Insulation, 10000 water/windproof, 2 front exterior pockets, detachable suspender, edge guard, full length side zippers, waist adjusters.

34. Stunning ladies Descente ski jacket, with a flattering cut and shape which will look great teamed with white or black salopettes on the slopes. The unique Titan Thermo Layer will provide superior insulation whilst the DT 20,00 fabric will keep you dry and protect against the elements. Additional features include snow skirt, zip off hood, goggle pocket, zipped inner pocket, multiple zipped pockets & velcro wrist.

35. Featuring Eider’s exclusive ’Defender’ fabric, which is over 18,000mm waterproof and highly breathable, this jacket has it all! Great looks and technical features that include powder skirt, lycra cuffs with thumb hole, articulated elbows and multiple pockets.

36. Big Air Lithium thermals are designed to regulate body temperature. They wick moisture away from the body when you are too hot, and allow warm air to circulate and keep you warm in cold conditions. Flatlock seams and contoured panels ensure a comfortable fit that is close to the body and allows for a full range of motion.

37. Features Body in PolartecPowershield: this fabric offers the ultimate protection against harsh weather conditions and provides resistance, water repellence, windbreaker effect and warmth. Attached and fully adjustable 3D hood with retaining peak: for maximum protection and comfort with or without a helmet. Seat, front and side full openings with waterproof zips: to facilitate the opening and slipping on/off of the suit.

38. Animal Reggie Snowboard Pant - French Blue You can rely on the Animal Reggie Snowboard Pants to keep you warm, dry, and protected from the elements. Not only that, but they are designed to maximise your riding enjoyment through unbeatable comfort, rock solid style, great technical features. With a hefty 5/5K waterproofing/breathability rating, fully taped seams, and features like the Link-to-Jacket System, the Animal Reggie Snowboard Pants are unbeatable! 5,000mm Waterproofing 5,000g Breathability Fully Taped Seams 100% Nylon Twill Anitex Technical Fabric Suspension Gaiter with Lace Hook Ankle Zips Reinforced Hem Inseam Zip Vents Adjustable Waist Band Extra-wide Belt Loops Jacket-to-Pant Linking System Articulated Knee

39. Bonfire Echo Womens Snowboard Jacket - Black/Opal Like to layer? The Bonfire Echo is a lightweight, fully waterproof shell for those first cold days of winter . Echo Snowboard Jacket's soft feeling woven shell is critically seam sealed and ready to stand up to any weather. 10,000mm Waterproofing 10,000g Breathability Critically Taped Seams Plain Weave Classic Fit Lined Shell Construction Brushed Tricot Lining Fine Tune Cuff and Hood Adjust Snap-Tite System Lift Ticket Loop E.G.O Media Pocket Ear Toaster Panels Pass Pocket Goggle Pocket Mesh Backed Pit Vents Inset Fleece Collar Goggle Lock Snap-Back Powder Skirt

40. Trekmates® Thermal Pro® Balaclava provides warmth without the weight and offers excellent breathability and quick drying to minimize heat loss. Provides comfort and warmth and is appropriate for a broad range of activities. Highly breathable Traps air to retain body heat Dries quickly

41. The Osprey GTX combines warmth and waterproofness to produce a classic snowsport glove using some of the finest components and materials available. Features: Gore-Tex® liner provides a waterproof and breathable inner layer Leather palm, fingers and wrapped-over finger ends Sonic welded patches on knuckles maximum protection Primaloft® insulation soft handle and high warmth retention, low bulk Polysoft lining comfortable, soft and warm with excellent wicking properties Elasticated wrist provides a close and comfortable fit Pre-shaped fingers provides a great fit, maximising comfort Zippered pocket on right hand cuff safe storage of lift pass and other small items

42. Thinsulate Heated Gloves and Mitts The heated gloves have built in heating elements which become warm within about 3 minutes of connecting the batteries. Each glove is powered by 1 D battery which fit snugly on the back of your wrist. For added warmth, the gloves have a thermal lining and water resistant outer. Ideal for skiing or just cold days The gloves have adjustable cuffs to keep the warmth in and have 3M 40 gram Thinsulate™ insulation. You also have a choice of two heat settings, high and low, 6 hours on high and up to 8 hours on low

43. Second paper – Tuesday June 22nd 10 marks. This powerpoint will be on www.textiles4u.wikispaces.com And accessible via Longslade Textiles on Facebook Make sure that you revise all the information before the second exam. Sportswear