Pattern Types and Pattern Making Process

1. PATTERN DEVELOPMENT Pattern Types and Pattern Making Process

2. Key Concepts and Terms • Apparel Design Technical Pack (Tech Pack) • Block Pattern • CAD-Computer Aided Design • Costing • Design Details • Design Samples • Drafting a Pattern • Flat Pattern • Garment Cost Sheet • Grading

3. Key Concepts and Terms • Logistics • Pattern Maker • Pattern Specification Sheet • Production Samples • Prototype • Retail • Reverse Engineered Pattern • Sloper Pattern • Sourcing • Tariffs • Wholesale

4. Pattern Making Process • Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel product. • Consider the design details. • Select the materials (fabrication and trims) • Construct the sample (prototype) • Fit, revise and finalize the sample • Create an apparel technical design pack • Prepare pattern for mass production

5. Creating a Pattern • Designers begin by creating a2D or 3D pattern, utilizing one or more of the pattern making methods: • Flat • Drafting • Reversed Engineered • Draping • Computer Generated

6. Types of 2D Pattern Making Methods • Flat Pattern- A pattern is created by using an existing foundation pattern known as a sloper or a block. • Sloper (Home Sewing Industry term) or Block (Apparel Manufacturing Industry term) - custom fitted basic pattern based on individual or companies standard size measurements from which other patterns can be made.

7. Types of 2D Pattern Making Methods • Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created by using measurements of an existing garment, an individual, or body form. Pattern is then drawn on paper utilizing the body measurements. • Drafting a Pattern: You Tube Video • Reverse Engineering a Pattern- Patterns are created by deconstructing an existing garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new pattern pieces are created.

8. Types of 3D Pattern Making Methods • Draping- A garment is created by molding, cutting, and pinning fabric on an individual or a dress form. It is the oldest method of pattern making. • Computer Generated Patterns- Computer-aided design (CAD) software is used to produce patterns for textiles, apparel and other products. Image Source: www.lucianagrimaldi.com

9. Consider Design Details • Dress Styles: • Sheath, Shift, A-line, Tent, Empire, or Lower waistline • Other Dress Styles: Princess, Blouson, Shirtwaist, Coatdress, Asymmetrical, Jumper or Sundress • Neckline Styles:Decollete̒, Jewel, Boat, Scoop, Horseshoe, Cowl, Raised, Square, V, Off the Shoulder, Sweetheart, and Keyhole. • Shirt Styles: Dress, Sport, Polo, Western, T-shirt, Tank, Fitted, Hawaiian, Tunic, Tuxedo, Camisole, and Henley • Collar Styles: Shirt, Button Down, Sailor, Convertible, Peter Pan, Chelsea, Bertha, Mandarin, Band, Crewneck, Turtleneck, Shawl, Bow Tie, Stock , Jabot • Sleeve Types: Set-in, Kimono, Raglan • Set-In Sleeves Types: Bishop, Pleasant, Bell, Lantern, Cape, Shirt, Puff, Melon, Cowl, Petal,, Roll-up, Leg-o-Mutton, Shirred, Juliette, and Two-Piece Tailored

10. Consider Design Details • Kimono Sleeve Types: With Gusset, Dolman, Batwing • Raglan Sleeve Types: Raglan to center front, Raglan-Princess, and Saddle Sleeve Design • Skirt Styles: Straight, A-line, Flared, Circular, Full, Pleated, Gathered, Dirndl, Gored, Umbrella, and Wrap • Pant Styles: Tapered, Straight, Flared, Jean, Palazzo, Harem, Bermuda Shorts, and Short Shorts, • Other Pant Styles Include: Gauchos, knickers, and Culottes • Jacket Styles: Trench, Blazer, Fitted, Tuxedo, Cardigan, Parka, Poncho, Cape, Safari, Pea, Windbreaker, Norfolk, Chanel, Bolero, and Box • Pockets- Patch, Inseam, Welt, Flap

11. Selecting The Materials and Costing • Once a design is created and the pattern is engineered, the materials (fabrication and trims) are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs. retail when sourcing materials.) Other variables may include: labor, logistics, tariffs, shipping costs etc. • Preliminary costing is completed to insure profitability. • Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design details, and labor costs.

12. Construct the Sample • Sample garments (prototypes) are created by sample makers. • Sample makers must be skilled in a variety of sewing construction techniques. • They work closely to insure fit and design integrity. • Fashion fabric is used to create a sample garment.

13. FIT, REVISE, AND FINALIZE THE PATTERN • Use a mannequin or a live model to check the fit and styling of the sample garment. • Revise garment fit until it is correct. Photo Source: gardnerstreetvintage.tumblr.com

14. Apparel Design Technical Pack • The Apparel Design Technical (Tech) Packs are created after the sample garment has been finalized. • Create Your Own Tech Pack- You Tube Video • The tech packs are specific information about the design and should include the following: 1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views. Should include topstitching, pocket and button placement, placement of contrast fabrications, hem and band widths, label placement etc.

15. Apparel Design Technical Pack • 2. Directions for any special fabric direction or matching. For example borders, napped fabric etc. • 3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type and color. • 4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining fabrics. • 5. Measurement details. • 6. Care Instructions for labeling • 7. Color details and season information

16. Sample of an Apparel Design Technical Pack Date- Designer- Season- Style #- Technical Sketch- include design and construction details Body Measurements Hardware and Trim Fabrication and Color Care Label Information Comments Swatch of Fabrics

17. Prepare Pattern For Mass Production • Once a sample pattern has been approved for size, costing, availability of materials, and potential profit; it is used for production samples and samples for sales promotion. • The approved pattern is graded into smaller and larger sizes usually by computer but can be done by hand. • Final fabric selections and trims are ordered by suppliers.