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Explore the tools needed for basic circuit troubleshooting, from multimeters to wiring tools and miscellaneous equipment. Learn about different types of multimeters and their features, wiring tools like cutters and strippers, and additional tools like pliers and screwdrivers. Understand circuit troubleshooting for batteries, alternators, lighting systems, and electronic circuits in boats. Discover techniques for battery testing, including hydrometer and load tests, as well as alternator testing methods. Enhance your DIY repair skills with the right tools and procedures.
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Chapter 7 Basic Troubleshooting and Repair Procedures
Overview • Tools Needed • Circuit Troubleshooting • Electrical Interference
Tools Needed • Multimeters • Wiring Tools • Miscellaneous Tools • Do-It-Yourself Test Tools • Commercial Testers
Multimeter • Required features in a boat’s multimeter • Measure up to 50 VDC • DC voltages either 6, 12 and sometimes 24 • Measure up to 250 VAC • AC voltages either 120 or 240 • Measure resistance or continuity • Audible continuity checker is desirable • Desirable features • Measure AC and DC current up to 10 amps • Entry level measure current to approx. 250 mA
Analog Multimeter • Advantage - Low cost • Disadvantages • Difficult to read measurement value • Have to start at max value and work way down
Digital Multimeter • Advantages • Easy to read measurement value • More accurate readout • Disadvantages • Have to start at max value and work way down • Cost
Auto-Ranging Multimeter • Advantage • Only have to select function (not range) • DC voltage, DC current, AC voltage or resistance • Disadvantage - cost
Wiring Tools • Wire Cutter – Diagonal Cutter • 5 or 6” overall • Plastic cushion grip • Wire Stripper • Don’t use knife • Are dedicated tools • Most used – Combination Cut/Strip/Crimp Tool • Not to be used as crimp tool • Wire cutters at tip not effective
Wiring Tools - 2 • Ratcheting crimp tool required by ABYC • Covered in Chapter 2 • Expensive compared to combination tool • Soldering gun • Normally boat wiring is NOT soldered • Done with crimp on terminals and butt spices • Required for some coax connectors • Recommend dual 100/140 watt • With appropriate tip will cut lines and fuse ends
Miscellaneous Tools • Pliers • To hold objects • Not a substitute for a wrench • Types • Slip joint • Needle nose • 5” or 6” overall with plastic cushioned grips • Wrench (for electrical work) • Adjustable 6”
Screwdrivers • Blade • 3/16” blade with 4” shaft • 1/4” blade with 4” shaft • Phillips • #1 with 4” shaft • #2 with 4” shaft • Small • 1/8” blade with approx. 2” shaft • #0 Phillips with approx. 2” shaft
Circuit Trouble-Shooting • Batteries • Alternators • Battery Chargers • Boat Lighting System • Boat DC Electronic Systems • Boat AC Circuits
Battery Testing • Hydrometer • Open-Circuit Voltage • Load Test • Three-Minute Charge
Hydrometer • Hydrometer – best tester of flooded-cell • Measures Specific Gravity • Chapter 3, Table 5
Open-Circuit Voltage • For Maintenance Free, Gel & AGM batteries • When you can’t use a hydrometer • Battery should rest for 24 hours, or discharge with a large light bulb for a few minutes • Chapter 3, Table 5
Specific Gravity & Voltages Specific Gravity (Flooded Cell @ 80 F) Flooded Cell Voltage Gelled Cell Voltage AGM Voltage Chapter 3 Table 3-5
Load Test • Hydrometer and open-circuit voltage do not indicate ability to provide current under load • Prevent engine from starting • Operate starter motor for approx 15 sec • Monitor battery voltage after 5 sec • If voltage is over 10.5 VDC – Good Battery • If voltage is under 10.5 VDC – Bad Battery • Replace battery
Three-Minute Charge Test • Actually takes six (6) minutes • Charge battery at 40A for six minutes • Measure voltage (at battery) with charger on • If voltage under 15.5 VDC – Battery is good • If voltage is over 15.5 VDC – Battery is bad • Not accepting charge • Is sulfated • Replace battery
Alternator Testing • Drive Belt • Quick Test • Alternator Electrical Connections
Drive Belt & Quick Test • Drive belt • Loose belt if “squealing” when engine started • Belt depression when pressed at midpoint • Normal (correct tightness) is only 3/8” to ½” • Over ½” is too loose, tighten belt • Quick test with engine & battery charger off • Measure (battery) voltage at alternator • Start engine and measure voltage at alternator • Alternator working if voltage increases • Alternator not working if voltage constant
Alternator Electrical Connections To check wiring between alternator & battery • First discharge battery for five minutes • Then start engine & check for high resistance connection between alternator & battery • Voltage drop over 0.5 VDC needs to be fixed; or over 1.0 VDC if there are charging diodes • Check both positive and negative circuit • Clean and tighten the bad connection • If you find a bad wire, replace it
Battery Charger Testing • Alternator vs Battery Charger • Quick Test • Troubleshooting
Alternator vs Charger & Quick Test • Alternator vs Battery Charger • Batteries charged by alternator • Batteries not charged by battery charger • Defective battery charger; see Troubleshooting • Quick test with engine & charger off • Measure (battery) voltage at battery charger • Turn on battery charger and measure voltage • Battery charger working if voltage increases • Battery charger not working if voltage constant
Troubleshooting • If Charger not working, check the AC input • Troubleshoot like AC Circuit, covered later • If there is AC input, check for a blown fuse • Replace blown fuse ONCE • If fuse blows a 2nd time • Disconnect wire going to battery and install another fuse, then turn charger on • If fuse blows again, have defective charger • If fuse does NOT blow, measure DC voltage • Should be between 13 and 16 VDC
Troubleshooting - 2 • Turn Charger “Off” • Disconnect charger positive wire at battery • Tape it to prevent wire shorting to ground • Reconnect positive wire at charger • Turn “On”, if fuse blows have short in wire • If fuse does not blow, may have high resistance connection between charger and battery • Troubleshoot wiring like you would for alternator
Boat Lighting System • Boat light inoperative • First replace bulb with known good bulb • Alternate test of suspect bulb • Check continuity of filament • Good bulb will have continuity or low resistance • Bad bulb will indicate no continuity or infinite resistance • If good bulb does not work • Need to troubleshoot lighting circuit
Lighting Troubleshooting • Need a logical sequence • First check circuit breakers and switches • Then isolate to battery to power panel or • Power panel to light
Boat Light Inoperative Replace / Check Bulb A A Turn Battery Switch On Turn DC Main On Light Working ? Stop Yes NO Power to Panel ? Battery Switch On ? NO NO Yes Troubleshoot Battery to Panel Yes DC Main On ? A NO Yes Troubleshoot Panel to Light
Battery to Power Panel No DC at battery side of DC main breaker • Check/replace large fuse at battery • Use multimeter • Check/clean/tighten wiring • Battery to battery fuse • Batter fuse to power panel
Power Panel to Light Have DC at load side of branch circuit breaker • Check/clean/tighten wiring at branch breaker • Check/clean corrosion at light socket • Use CRC QD Electronic Cleaner or equivalent • Check/replace in-line fuse near light • Check/replace switch in light • Check wiring with temporary wires from branch circuit breaker to light fixture
Boat DC Electronic Systems • 90% of equipment problems is lack of DC or bad corroded cable connections • First check for power to equipment • If there is power • Check for blown fuse • If fuse is good, there is an equipment problem • Then check/clean cable connections • Use CRC QD Electronic Cleaneror equivalent • Lastly troubleshoot like a lighting system • Previously covered
Boat AC Circuits • Testing • Troubleshooting
Testing AC Circuits • Shore power polarity • Verify correct with Reverse Polarity Indicator • Outlets • When first installed and once a year • Verify with AC Outlet Tester • GFCI outlets • When first installed and once a year • Insert AC Outlet Tester • Press “Test” – tester lights should go “Off” • Press “Reset” – tester lights should go “On”
Testing Hard Wired Appliances • Turn on appropriate branch circuit breaker and • Appliance “On” switch • Appliance should work or • Expose the AC terminal strip • Use multimeter • Check for AC voltage and polarity • If have AC input and won’t work = Defective
Troubleshooting AC Circuits • Need logical sequence • First check circuit breakers and switches • Then isolate to dock to power panel or • Power panel to outlet or appliance
A A A Reset Service Breaker AC Main On ? Turn AC Main On Troubleshoot Dock to Panel Troubleshoot Panel to Outlet / Appliance AC Troubleshooting Start Power to Panel ? Service Breaker Tripped ? NO Yes NO Yes NO Yes
Dock to Power Panel No AC at line side of AC main circuit breaker • Check/reset dockside circuit breaker • Check service cord • Use adapters and AC Outlet Tester • Power at dockside outlet? • Power at boat end of cable? • Check/clean/tighten connectors and wiring • Disconnect AC power before working on AC • Use CRC QD Electronic Cleaner on contacts
Power Panel to Outlet/Appliance Have AC at load side of branch circuit breaker • Reset GFCI outlet • Disconnect AC power before working • Check/clean/tighten wiring at breaker • Check/clean/tighten wiring at outlet/appliance • Check wiring with temporary wires from branch circuit breaker to outlet/appliance
Summary – Circuit Troubleshooting DC • Battery tests: Voltage, Load and 3-minute charge • Alternator tests: Drive belt, quick test and wiring • Battery Charger: Quick test, AC power and wiring • Inoperative lights: Bulb, bulb contacts and wiring • DC electronics: Verify DC power & clean contacts • DC wiring: Start at power panel and isolate AC • Test outlets yearly • AC appliances: Verify AC power and check wiring • AC wiring: Start at power panel and isolate
Electrical Interference • Introduction • Sources of Interference • Locating Interference Sources • Interference Suppression • Mitigation Techniques
Introduction • Causes and Effects • Caused by rapid on/off current switching • Radiated through air • Conducted though wiring • Degrades high sensitivity electronic equipment • Noise Layers • Usually have interference from several sources • Remove/reduce till acceptable • Difficult to identify stronger interference
Sources of Interference • Ignition Systems • Charging Systems • Voltage Regulators • Electric Motors • Gauges and Instruments • Propeller Shaft(s) • Video Displays • Electronic Equipment • Fluorescent Lights
Identification by Sound • Ignition • Popping Sound related to engine speed • Alternator • High-pitched musical whine related to engine speed • Voltage Regulator • Intermittent rasping sound • Electric Motor • Hissing sound or whine
Locating Sources • What is Different? • What is On? • How is interference getting into equipment • Radiated? • Conductive? • Pigtail Check (with bypass capacitor) • Radio Noise “Sniffer”
Interference Suppression At source of interference • Approaches • Repair or replace faulty equipment • Shielding to confine interference • Special-purpose components to reduce interference
General Suppression • Replace/repair faulty equipment • Correct defective wiring • Bonding straps still connected? • Check wiring for loose connections • Re-run wiring • Separate power and signal wires/cables • Dress regulator field wire close to the alternator • Shielding • Wires • Compartments with grounded copper screen