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Timing Tree Construction Step by step including pictures and *commentary (*Timing Tree for Dummies)

Timing Tree Construction Step by step including pictures and *commentary (*Timing Tree for Dummies). Using S lot R ace M anager (www.Cenobyte.nl/slotracemanager). TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step. INTRODUCTION.

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Timing Tree Construction Step by step including pictures and *commentary (*Timing Tree for Dummies)

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  1. Timing Tree ConstructionStep by step including pictures and *commentary(*Timing Tree for Dummies) Using Slot Race Manager (www.Cenobyte.nl/slotracemanager)

  2. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step INTRODUCTION My name is Dave Klein but my friends know me as “Pepsikid”. I live in Sarasota, FL, been retired 2 times over and despite my age I love Slot Car Racing. I remember it from the 60’s but never had a track of my own until last year. This is the drawing on the Website that got me interested in having a Timing tree, Having no Electronic background, I was lost, but wanted the device. My intention here is to allow you the chance to construct a device without the questions, and provide you the confidence, that You have the ability as well. A special thanks to Mario, for educating me and T & C Thomas for inspiring me to build the Pepsi Challenge…. And keep trying to make it better than their Ole #7!

  3. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step BACKGROUND The “On Screen” version in Slot Race Manager is a six step process, from the 2nd [ENTER]. 1) At the start of the timing process 4 Red blocks come on the screen, 2) The 1st Red block turns Green, 3) the 2nd Red block turns Green, 4) the 3rd Red block Turns Green, 5) the 4th Red block turns Green, 6) When the Green blocks disappear – GO! The tree on the website uses 6 lights (5 Red & 1 Green), and was not designed to mimic the “On Screen” tree. You can build a 5 light tree, just eliminate one of the Red Led’s and the pin wiring. The Tree will Light all the Reds before the 2nd [ENTER] and as the blocks turn Green each successive Red will go On, when all reds go Out the Green goes on. The tree is controlled by the software via the parallel port (PP) using a DB25 (25 pin) interface, probably the same interface controlling the timing routines. Power for the Tree is supplied thru the Data Out Pins of the PP. Besides just the lights the TREE will control the Power to the track, it is a option set in SRM. LED’s are all that’s required unless your adding a external power source, however DO NOT directly apply a external power source to the PP It will damage it!

  4. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase One Since this is a tutorial of sorts Step one is planning! Making sure you have a plan will eliminate costly interruptions and provide a “check and balance” that all things are accomplished in a productive way. The plan should include gathering the tools and supplies necessary. The background picture shows most of the items I used. The tools are fairly simple should include: Solder pencil, Wire stripper, Small Cutting pliers, Clamps, Meter, magnifying glass and a Pepsi. Supplies: LED’s, Solder, Wire (I used 6 strand solid Telephone wire), Electrical Tape, and printed copy of instructions and photos. Included in this photo is the (Tree Housing) I constructed earlier in which I seated the LED sockets and connected all the common leads together to a single spade receptacle..

  5. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase two Understanding the DB25 (Parallel Port). It is the interface between the real world and the computer. Most older computers come with 1 parallel port (printer port-LPT1). Since its main purpose is to control a printer only certain PINS are usable and specific in nature. An OUT pin (2-9) is just like an switch, it can have 2 states: "high" (or "1" or "on") and "low" (or "0" or "off").  In example: When SRM set's pin 9 to "high", it closes the relay and the secondary circuit has power. The circuit remains powered (closed) as long as pin 9 is kept to "high". When SRM sets pin 9 to "low", the relay is opened and the secondary circuit is interrupted. When a data pin is set to “0”, you will find 0 Vdc on it. When it is set to “1”, you will find 5 Vdc on it. This is enough to turn on LEDs, but not enough to turn on lights and home appliances. However the secondary circuit can have a separate power source wired to it to be able to control a 12 volt circuit, or a 110V AC circuit (household light bulbs). The data (OUT) pins are addressed at 378h = 888 decimal, (IN) pins are at 1 address higher (889). An IN pin (10-15) allows the computer to receive data from a external source (like data from the timing sensors). Ground Pins are pins (18-25). Want more info… www. Hardwaresecrets.com/article/233.

  6. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Four Both drawings are the same, One using Symbols, other using pictures.

  7. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Four Wiring of the DB25 Parallel Port. Note: The wire (color) and / or Pins you use DO NOT need to be identical, so long as they are pins 2-9 DATA OUT pins, just be sure to record/tag them, SRM will let you assign the function according to the pin you select later, but if you know what wire you attached to each pin it will make it easier, later. Once you have completed the soldering process, use a Volt/Ohm meter to check for continuity. This will let you know if all wires are soldered without “shorting” to another pin. Note: Make sure the wires are long enough to reach between the computer and its location when completed and routed.

  8. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Four I put the following colors on my drawing to remind me what I was hooking up. #9 Yellow wire because when my TIMING SENSORs we’re wired, a Yellow (#9) and Purple (#24) we’re also included with the Blue (#12) and Red (#10) [Lane Sensors] and Black (#24 Gnd). The Blue (#2) is UNKOWN (extra) but wired to prevent having to open it all back up later. The Green (#8) and Reds (#3-#7) represent the Red LED’s. The 8 wire Colors (6 color Telephone wire + 2 extras) actually attached are Yel (Grn Red Yel Whi Blu Bla) Blu to the solder pins on the back. If it seems confusing, just try it without having a plan ahead of time. Draw it out and Label, Label, Label!

  9. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Four This is how I started soldering the PP. Don’t look at the soldering this is my 1st attempt soldering in a confined space and did it using a soldering gun. I needed to change my Lane 2 Sensor from #11 to #10 because of a sensor problem. I strongly suggest you invest about $15 in a soldering pen by the end of this project it will have been worth it. Note you are looking at the Bigger (13 pin) side of the DB25. Pin #1 is on left and #13 on right. Pins #2-#9 are the pins you will solder wires to according to your drawing. That means I started with a Green wire just to the right of the Yellow (It was already there) CAUTION: Applying to much heat too long a time will melt the Black insulator material and cause the pin attached to it to tilt or become unusable!!!

  10. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Four This is what my completed DB25 looks like. When I snap the cover back on I’ll still know what wire is to each pin because of my drawing, pictures, and labels to the other end of the wire. A little extra work for a lot less headache possibly later. Note: Before I closed the casing I did a quick continuity check, making sure there was NO direct shorts, and yes, I checked it again after I closed it up just to make sure no wires moved during the process. Only tone you should get is when you are touching the pin a specific wire is attached too! No bad tones… let’s move to the IC wiring.

  11. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Four This is the IC circuit. These pictures show the Top (Right) and bottom of the board after soldering each pin to the board. Note: there is a gap between solder mounds they may be small but they MUST be there. When in doubt… check it with a continuity check and remove the doubt.

  12. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Four After soldering the IC chip in I added my 1st wire and resistor. Note the soldering mounds connect the chip pin and the resistor (Left side of Right picture) and the Yellow wire on the right side, but the mounds DO NOT touch the pins up or down from it. Also note that the resistor is on the 2nd pin down (#17) and that the Yellow wire is on the 1st (#1). A quick check of the main drawing confirms it is right because Pin #18 is Blank and Pin #17 has the 1k resistor for the Green LED, also Pin #1 has a wire going to PP Pin #9. At this point I positioned the rest of the resistors, and wires to solder.

  13. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Four This is it completed. A couple things here to note is on the top (Right side) there is 3 copper wires showing. These are the 2 white wires and a black wire coming off to the right. The wires would not fit into the holes with the jackets on but I wanted them to come off that side of the board, so I stripped them a little longer to make it happen. The Black wire actually comes across under the entire board but stripped only where visible. Are we done? Not unless you checked it first! (Continuity!!!)

  14. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Five Does it All Match the Drawings This is it completed

  15. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Five Testing , before putting it into action. I found and recommend downloading Relaistimer (www. Kemo-electronic.com) which is a super program that shows all 8 Data pins of the DB-25. It allows turning on/off pins real easy. I also found using a solderless terminal a great asset for testing vice ‘twisting’ wires repeatedly.

  16. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Editoral If yours worked like mine, I wasn’t satisfied! I’m sure at night it would have been great but the Green LED’s were to dim, for daytime use so I modified it. I cut the 1k resistor out and wired the DB25 direct to them. I’m not sure if they will burn out quicker, but was told LED’s operate on a range of voltage between 1.3v and 4v (Red 1.3 – Green 4v). The voltage I measured was 4.42 v. Either way the lights work and now I’m working on the Track Power portion. Also I added several extra LED’s into the corners so no matter where your looking a Green or Red light is visible (controlled by the tree). Still to come is the “Track Call” feature (Wiring panic buttons to the Marshalling stations). SRM gives you the capability of making your track “lifelike”, I hope these instructions give you a little more understanding of what a schematic looks like in real parts.

  17. TIMING TREE CONSTRUCTION Step by Step Phase Five gotta run the lights are green and I’m racing! Questions? Email Pepsikid51@Verizon.net

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