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PERM AND NEUTRALISE HAIR USING BASIC TECHNIQUES. Perming and neutralising are chemical processes that damage the structure of the hairThey can be damaging to the hair if you do not understand what effect the chemicals have on the hair structureAny one can buy a home perm and cause disastrous effects through ignorance and not understanding what the chemicals can doTherefore it is important to understand the hair structure especially the cortex where the chemical changes take place.
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1. HOW PERMS WORK
2. PERM AND NEUTRALISE HAIR USING BASIC TECHNIQUES Perming and neutralising are chemical processes that damage the structure of the hair
They can be damaging to the hair if you do not understand what effect the chemicals have on the hair structure
Any one can buy a home perm and cause disastrous effects through ignorance and not understanding what the chemicals can do
Therefore it is important to understand the hair structure especially the cortex where the chemical changes take place
3. Why do clients want permed hair? To create curly hair
To create wavy hair
To maintain a style
To give body and fullness
To dry out greasy hair
To have a change of image
Fashion trends
4. THE CHEMICAL STRUCTURE OF HAIR Hair consists of a hardened protein called keratin
Its function is to make the hair elastic and flexible
Keratin is also found in the skin and the finger and toe nails
It is made up of amino acids and peptide bonds
Together they form polypeptide chains or links
5. THE POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS These chains are found in the cortex of the hair and look like a spiral staircase
To prevent this spiral from falling down , the polypeptide chains are supported by cross links of hydrogen bonds and disulphide bonds acting like scaffolding poles
6. THE POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS Hydrogen bonds are weak and can be easily broken by water
Therefore the shape of the hair can be changed temporarily by shampooing and then setting or blow-drying
Disulphide bonds are very strong and cannot be broken down by shampooing, only chemicals can break down these stronger links
This change will be permanent and takes place during perming or relaxing
7. ALPHA KERATIN AND BETA KERATIN
Hair that has been shampooed and left to dry naturally is described as alpha keratin (this is your natural hair state)
If you shampoo and then set or blow-dry hair into a stretched or unnatural state it is called beta keratin (this shape easily changes back to alpha keratin by wetting or being in a damp area)
8. ALPHA KERATIN AND BETA KERATIN Naturally straight hair(alpha keratin) becomes curly changing to beta keratin
9. ALPHA KERATIN AND BETA KERATIN Naturally curly hair becomes straight changing alpha to beta keratin
10. WHAT IS PERMING AND NEUTRALISING
Perming is the process of curling hair by chemically altering its physical structure
Neutralising is the chemical process that fixes the hair in a new position after it has been altered by the action of perm lotion
11. HOW PERMS WORK Perming involves three stages
Softening
Moulding
Fixing
12. HOW PERMS WORK The Softening Stage
Perm solution opens and swells cuticle so that perm lotion can enter the cortex
13. HOW PERMS WORK The Moulding stage
Perm solution deposits hydrogen
Hydrogen attaches to disulphide bonds and breaks them apart into sulphur bonds (not all disulphide bonds are broken)
The hair that has been softened now takes the shape of the rod
This is known as moulding
14. HOW PERMS WORK
15. RE-CAP TEST What part of the hair structure does the perm solution effect during the perming process?
What bonds can be broken down by water?
When hair is in its natural state it is called --------- keratin
When hair is stretched into its new shape it is called -------- keratin
What bonds are broken down during the perming process?
The three stages involved in perming are?
What is the name of the chains or links that are found within the cortex?
Hair consists of a hardened protein called?
When a disulphide bond is broken down it becomes ?
What is added to the hair during the fixing stage?
16. RE-CAP TEST What part of the hair structure does the perm solution effect during the perming process? CORTEX
What bonds can be broken down by water? HYDROGEN BONDS
When hair is in its natural state it is called ALPHA keratin
When hair is stretched into its new shape it is called BETA keratin
What bonds are broken down during the perming process? DISULPHIDE BONDS
The three stages involved in perming are? SOFTENING MOULDING AND FIXING
What is the name of the chains or links that are found within the cortex? POLYPEPTIDE CHAIN
Hair consists of a hardened protein called? KERATIN
When a disulphide bond is broken down it becomes ? SULPHUR BOND
What is added to the hair during the fixing stage? OXYGEN