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Lecture 15. Sewing Thread . Definitions…. Yarn: Collection of fibers used to weave or knit textile fabrics Thread: Thread is used to sew different things. Comparison…. Question ?. Sewing thread is selected before needle OR Needle is selected before sewing thread. Sewing Thread….
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Lecture 15 Sewing Thread
Definitions…. • Yarn: • Collection of fibers used to weave or knit textile fabrics • Thread: • Thread is used to sew different things
Question ? • Sewing thread is selected before needle OR • Needle is selected before sewing thread
Sewing Thread… • It is made by reverse twistingsingle yarns or plied yarns. • Reverse twist is given for balancing • Yarn plies will be separated when passing through needle and tension disks if not balanced properly
Sewing thread… • Twist: • The number of turns per inch or centimeter • A thread with too little twist may fray or break • A thread with too much twist can cause snarling, looping or knotting • So balance is the key and a good sewing thread has it
Twist direction… • There are two types of threads • S twist • Z twist • Which is better for sewing and why?
Thread Types… • Basically there are two types • Natural • Animal Silk thread is used for silk and wool • Plant Cotton thread is used for Linen, cotton and rayon • Synthetic Nylon and Polyester threads are used for Synthetics and stretch knits
Thread Finishing… Thread is finished to enhance its suitability for different sewing purposes • Soft: • Just Dyed and lubricated • Mercerized • Thread is mercerized. Thread gets some luster and strength. Also good affinity for dying. • Glazed • Thread is treated with starches and then polished for a high luster. It gets hard, providing good abrasion resistance and ply security
Thread Finishing… • Bonded • Synthetic threads are treated with resins. Tough smooth coating results in a good abrasion resistance and ply security • Gassed • Passing thread from a flame at high speed. It reduces the hairiness on surface
Thread Properties… • Elongation • Uniformity • Ply security • Lubricity • Strength • Breaking strength • Loop strength
Thread breakage… • Wrong thread • Incorrect or damaged needle • Improper Machine adjustment • Operator handling • Wrong threading • Worn machine parts • Weaker sewing thread • Less elongation
Other Thread properties … • Color fastness • Wash fastness • Crock fastness • Light fastness • Cold water migration