Index Duck Identification Duck guns and ammunition Tactics Camouflage Blinds Calls Calling technique Cleaning ducks Cook

2. Index • Duck Identification • Duck guns and ammunition • Tactics • Camouflage • Blinds • Calls • Calling technique • Cleaning ducks • Cooking Ducks • Ethics • KDWP rules and regulations • Ducks Unlimited

3. Mallard Latin: Anasplatyrhynchos Average length: M 24.7", F 23“ Average weight: M 2.7 lbs., F 2.4 lbs. Description: The male mallard's white neck-ring separates the green head from the chestnut-brown chest, contrasts with the gray sides, brownish back, black rump and black upper- and under-tail coverts. The speculum is violet-blue bordered by black and white, and the outer tail feathers are white. The bill is yellow to yellowish-green and the legs and feet are coral-red. Male utters a soft, rasping "kreep." The female mallard is a mottled brownish color and has a violet speculum bordered by black and white. The crown of the head is dark brown with a dark brown stripe running through the eye. The remainder of the head is lighter brown than the upper body. The bill is orange splotched with brown, and the legs and feet are orange. Female is especially vocal with the characteristic series of quacks. Breeding: Mallards have one of the most extensive breeding ranges of any duck in North America, extending across the northern third of the United States and up to the Bering Sea. The highest mallard densities occur in the Prairie Pothole Region of Saskatchewan, Alberta, Manitoba and North Dakota, with nests placed in upland habitat near wetlands on the ground, or in tree holes or nest boxes. Female mallards lay an average of 9 eggs. Migrating and Wintering: Mallards migrate along numerous corridors, but the greatest concentrations move from Manitoba and Saskatchewan through the Midwestern United States to the Mississippi Alluvial Valley. Mallards winter throughout the United States, with the highest densities typically recorded during winter surveys along the Mississippi Flyway from Cape Girardeau, Mo., to the Gulf of Mexico. Among the dabbling ducks, mallards are one of the latest fall migrants. They also have the most extended migration period, which lasts from late summer to early winter. Mallards are found in a variety of habitats, including dry agricultural fields, shallow marshes and oak-dominated forested wetlands. Mallards are vagrant to Central America and the Caribbean. There are feral breeding populations on Bermuda, introduced in 1960, and the Cayman Islands, introduced in 1983 (Scott and Carbonell, 1986). Population: The mallard is the most common duck in the United States, with the greatest abundance between the Appalachian and Rocky mountains. Mallard populations have benefited greatly from the Conservation Reserve Program (CRP) and other grassland restoration efforts in the northern prairies of the United States, where populations have increased 100 percent above the long-term average. Food habits: Mallards dabble to feed on seeds, rootlets and tubers of aquatic plants off swamp and river bottoms.

4. Gadwell Latin: Anasstrepera Average length: M 21", F 19“ Average weight: M 2.0 lbs., F 1.8 lbs. Description: Gadwalls are medium-sized ducks characterized by a general lack of bright coloration. Male gadwalls are gray-brown with a white belly and a black rump. In flight, a white speculum and chestnut and black portions on the wing coverts are displayed. The bill is slate-gray and the legs and feet are yellow. The male utters a short "nheck" and a low whistle. Female gadwalls are similar to males, but have a mottled brown appearance, a yellowish bill with dark spots and a smaller white speculum. She utters a repeated "gag-ag-ag-ag-ag," higher in pitch than the mallard. Breeding: Gadwall breed near seasonal and semi-permanent wetlands, mainly in the shortgrass, tallgrass and mixed prairie regions of the United States and Canada. Substantial numbers also breed in wetland habitats of the Great Basin. Gadwall tend to begin breeding later than most ducks. Female gadwall nest in fields and meadows, and on islands and dikes in wetlands, and lay an average of 7-12 eggs. Migrating and Wintering: Gadwall are distributed throughout the southern two-thirds of the United States in winter, with the greatest concentrations found in the Central and Mississippi flyways. They are found throughout much of the intermountain west of North America, and most of Mexico, in reservoirs, farm ponds and coastal fresh and brackish marshes. They are often found in association with American wigeon and coots. Gadwall are a common winter visitor to Guatemala (Scott and Carbonell, 1986). Population: The North American gadwall population remained stable through the 1970s and early 1980s, while populations of other waterfowl species generally declined. Since the late 1980s, the gadwall population has increased to record levels, with the most recent estimates in the 3-million-bird range, due to improved wetland habitat conditions. Food habits: Aquatic vegetation makes up the majority of the gadwall's diet. As a result, they are often found feeding far from the shoreline, in deeper water than most other dabbling ducks. Gadwall up-end to feed on leafy portions of pondweed, naiad, wigeon grass, water milfoil and algae, as well as the seeds of pondweed, smartweed, bulrush and spike rush. They also feed on aquatic invertebrates, such as crustaceans and midges

5. Green Wing teal Latin: Anascrecca Average length: M 14.7", F 14“ Average weight: M 0.7 lbs., F 0.6 lbs. Description: Green-winged teal are the smallest of our North American ducks with a short neck and small bill. Male green-winged teal have a chestnut head with an iridescent green to purple patch extending from the eyes to the nape of the neck. The chest is pinkish-brown with black speckles, and the back, sides and flanks are vermiculated gray, separated from the chest by a white bar. The wing coverts are brownish-gray with a green speculum. The bill is dark slate and the legs and feet are dark gray. Males have a distinctive high-pitched "preep-preep." Female green-winged teal are mottled brown with a dark brown line that extends from the bill through the eye. The bill is dark gray and the legs and feet are olive-gray to brownish-gray. Relatively silent but has a sharp, high "quack" when flushed. Breeding: Green-winged teal breed from Alaska, across Canada, into the Maritime Provinces, south into central California, Utah, Colorado, Nebraska, Minnesota and Wisconsin. They prefer small, shallow permanent ponds near boreal forests that boast an abundance of emergent vegetation, but also nest in prairie pothole country or in areas with dense emergent vegetation. Female green-winged teal lay an average of 8-9 eggs. Migrating and Wintering: Green-winged teal have an extensive wintering range, having been recorded as far north as Alaska and Newfoundland and as far south as northern South America. They are most abundant along the Mississippi and Central flyways, where the coastal marshes and rice fields of Louisiana and Texas provide ideal habitat. Tidal creeks and freshwater marshes associated with estuaries are favored over more saline or open-water habitats. Green-winged teal are common winter visitors to Central America and the northern Caribbean, and occasionally south to Colombia (Scott and Carbonell, 1986). Population: From an all-time low of 722,000 birds in 1962, green-winged teal populations have grown steadily since. In 2009, they reached an all-time high of 3.4 million (U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, 2009). Food habits: Green-winged teal feed on seeds of sedges, smartweeds, pondweeds, grasses, aquatic insects, mollusks, crustaceans and tadpoles found while foraging in and adjacent to mudflats or while dabbling in shallow water.

6. Blue Wing Teal Latin: Anasdiscors Average length: M 16", F 14“ Average weight: M 1.0 lbs., F 0.8 lbs. Description: Male blue-winged teal have a slate gray head and neck, a black-edged white crescent in front of the eyes and a blackish crown. The breast and sides are tan with dark brown speckles and there is a white spot on the side of the rump. Most of the upper wing coverts are blue-gray, the secondaries form an iridescent green speculum and the underwing is whitish. The bill is black and the legs and feet are yellowish to orange. The male has a thin whistled "tseetsee" uttered both in flight and when on water. Female blue-winged teal have a brownish-gray head with a darker crown and eye stripe. The breast and sides are brown, the upper parts are olive brown, and the upper wing coverts are bluish, but less vibrant than the drake. The bill is gray-black and the legs and feet are dull yellow-brown. The female has a high-pitched squeak. Breeding: Blue-winged teal breed primarily in the northern prairies and parklands of central North America. Their relative abundance generally increases from west to east and north to south within the Prairie Pothole Region. Nesting habitat includes wetland areas within grasslands, such as shallow marshes, sloughs, flooded ditches and temporary ponds. Females change breeding sites from year to year in response to changing wetland conditions and lay an average of 10 eggs. Migrating and Wintering: Blue-winged teal are generally the first ducks south in the fall and the last north in the spring. They migrate from the Prairie Pothole Region to wintering areas in Florida, the Caribbean Islands, the Gulf Coast of Texas and Louisiana, Mexico and Central and South America. Wintering habitats are diverse, including mangrove swamps, fresh and brackish estuaries and shallow wetlands. In the United States, the highest winter densities occur in southern Texas and peninsular Florida. Blue-winged teal are common in winter from Central America, the Caribbean and South America south to Peru and northeastern Brazil. They also stay regularly in small numbers in the Galapagos Islands and are vagrants to Chile, southeastern Brazil, Uruguay and Argentina (Scott and Carbonell, 1986). Population: Since 1955, blue-winged teal populations have ranged from 2.8 million to 7.4 million. Generally, numbers have increased in recent years, due to favorable prairie wetland conditions. This has resulted in an average population of 6 million during the past 10 years (U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, 2009). Blue-winged teal have the highest annual mortality rate (reaching 65 percent) of all the dabbling ducks, possibly as a result of hunting and long over-ocean migration. Food habits: Blue-winged teal dabble to feed on the vegetative parts of aquatic plants (algae, duckweeds, pondweeds, etc.), seeds (sedges, pondweeds, grasses, etc.) and large amounts of aquatic invertebrates found in shallowly flooded wetlands.

7. American wigeon Latin: Anasamericana Average length: M 20", F 19“ Average weight: M 1.8 lbs., F 1.6 lbs Description: Both males and females have a bluish black-tipped bill. Male American wigeons have a white patch from the forehead to the middle of the crown and an iridescent green band from the eye to the back of the head. They have a pinkish-brown breast and sides that are separated from the black undertail coverts by white flank feathers. In flight, the white shoulder patch is diagnostic. The legs and feet are blue-gray to dark gray. Male whistles a "wheewhee whew." Female American wigeons have a gray head with a brownish-black crown and brownish chest and sides. The legs and feet are blue-gray to dark gray. Female vocalization is a "qua-ack." Breeding: American wigeon nest farther north than any other dabbling duck with the exception of the northern pintail. They breed throughout northern Saskatchewan, Alberta, Manitoba, Alaska and the Northwest Territories. American wigeon prefer shallow lakes and marshy sloughs that are surrounded by dry sedge-lined meadows and contain submergent vegetation. Female American wigeons lay an average of 9 eggs. Migrating and Wintering: American wigeon are among the earliest waterfowl to reach their wintering grounds. Wigeon in Alaska and western Canada migrate along the Pacific Flyway and winter around Puget Sound and into California. Birds that use the Central Flyway winter in the Texas panhandle and along the Texas and Louisiana coast of the Gulf of Mexico. Along the Mississippi Flyway, wetlands and lakes in eastern Arkansas and western Tennessee also provide important wintering habitat for wigeon. They use a variety of habitats in winter, including ponds, lakes and saline and brackish marshes with abundant aquatic vegetation. Wigeon also readily forage on grasses and sedges in wet meadows and pastures. American wigeon are common winter visitors to Central America, the Caribbean, northern Colombia, Trinidad and occasionally Venezuela (Scott and Carbonell, 1986). Food habits: American wigeon are aquatic grazers and forage on grasses and sedges in wet meadows and pastures.

8. Northern pintail Latin: Anasacuta Average length: M 25", F 21.4“ Average weight: M 2.26 lbs., F 1.91 lbs. Description: Northern pintails are long, slender ducks with long, narrow wings, earning them the nickname "greyhound of the air." Pintails are named for their elongated central tail feathers, which constitute one-fourth of the drake's body length. Male northern pintails have a chocolate-brown head with a white stripe on each side of the neck extending up from the white breast and belly. The back is blackish-gray and the rump has a white patch on each side. Two of the long central tail feathers are black while the others are gray margined by white. In flight, an iridescent greenish-black speculum is displayed. The bill is blue-gray with a black stripe along the center to the tip, and the legs and feet are slate-gray. The male has a mellow whistled "kwee" or "kwee-hee." Female northern pintails have a dark-brown upper body with a buff or gray head and lower body. The speculum is a dull brown or bronze. The bill is blue-gray blotched with black, and the legs and feet are slate-gray. Female vocalization is a hoarse, muffled "quack." Breeding: Northern pintails have a circumpolar breeding pattern. In North America, they breed from Alaska, the central Canadian Arctic and western Greenland south to the western and central United States. Northern pintails nest in open areas near seasonal and semi-permanent wetlands located in prairie and tundra habitats. Females typically nest on the ground in low or sparse vegetation, often far from water, and lay an average of 8 eggs. Migrating and Wintering: Northern pintails are among the first ducks to migrate south in the fall and north in the spring. Over half of the pintail population in North America migrates through California. The majority of these birds winter in the Central Valley of California, but some continue south to the west coast of Mexico. Pintails using the Central Flyway winter in the Texas Panhandle and on the Gulf Coast of Texas and western Louisiana. The majority of pintails using the Mississippi Flyway winter in Louisiana, with smaller numbers wintering in Arkansas, Tennessee, Mississippi and Alabama. Along coastal wintering grounds, pintails concentrate on shallow fresh or brackish estuaries adjacent to agricultural areas. Northern pintails are common winter visitors to Central America, the Caribbean and northern Colombia (Scott and Carbonell, 1986). Population: Pintails once were one of the most abundant ducks in North America but have suffered a disturbing decline since the 1950s. In 2009, the breeding population was estimated at 3.2 million birds, substantially below the North American Waterfowl Management Plan objective of 5.5 million. More than any other North American waterfowl species, the northern pintail population has suffered from persistent drought and loss of grassland habitat in the Prairie Pothole Region. Food habits: Pintails dabble and up-end to feed on the seeds and nutlets of moist-soil and aquatic plants. They also make extensive use of waste grain.

9. Mallard Green wing teal Blue wing teal Gadwell American wigeon Northern pintail

10. Seven Essential Skills for Water fowlers 1. Shooting. A successful duck or goose hunter must learn how to operate and shoot a shotgun with at least a fair degree of proficiency. You must also know and follow the basic rules of firearms safety. Attend a hunter safety course. Take lessons from a shooting instructor. Then work on improving your shot gunning skills by practicing at the skeet or sporting clays range during the off-season. 2. Calling. You don't have to be a competition-level caller to lure ducks and geese into your decoys. Learning the five-note greeting call and feeding chuckle will pull ducks in, while the long-range hail call and double-cluck will do the same with geese. Ask an experienced caller to teach you how to blow air into a call. Then practice regularly to improve your calling. Be sure not to overdo it when you're hunting; it's best for beginners to err on the side of calling too little rather than too much. 3. Dressing properly. Since water fowling takes place in all kinds of weather, duck and goose hunters must learn to dress appropriately for conditions at hand. Purchase a quality parka and additional clothing such as moisture-wicking thermal underwear, heavy pants, a shirt, a vest or sweater, wool socks, warm gloves, a hat, and a neck gaiter. Learn to dress in layers to meet temperature extremes. All outer garments must be waterproof. Also, for hunting in water, buy the best waders you can afford. 4. Concealment. If ducks and geese see you, they won't come within shooting range. This is why water fowlers must master the art of concealing not only themselves, but also their blinds, boats, guns, and other gear. A broad range of camouflage gear and clothing is available to help hunters blend into natural surroundings. Match camouflage patterns to the types of habitats you will be hunting. When camouflaging a blind or pit, try to use grass and branches that will blend in with the landscape. Keep in mind that there's no such thing as putting too much cover on a blind. Cover it up, then create a shooting hole and stay back in the shadows when ducks are circling. 5. Rigging and setting decoys. Using decoys effectively is both an art and a science. A number of factors come into play, including choosing which types of decoys to use, how many to set out, and how to rig and deploy them for different hunting situations. 6. Identifying waterfowl. Water fowlers must be able to identify ducks and geese both on the wing and in hand. Harvest regulations specify restrictions on certain species, and beginning hunters must be able to ID their ducks to avoid bag limit violations. To learn how to identify waterfowl, visit the DU website at ducks.org/hunting/waterfowl-ID. 7. Scouting. To be successful, duck and goose hunters must hunt where the birds are. Waterfowl trade around frequently as food and habitat availability changes. During a freeze they will move to open water. After a rain, they will seek out recently flooded areas where fresh food is accessible. Study the movements and patterns of waterfowl and scout diligently to find birds in different water conditions.

11. Shotgun Shopping The “by the book” definition of the ultimate waterfowl gun is arguably a 12-gauge semi-automatic. A 12-gauge chamber holds shells that will definitely get the job done. And the semi-automatic action allows the hunter to quickly get off a second and third shot, without having to deal with a lot of recoil. However, you may wish to try the kinder, gentler 20-gauge semi auto. A 20-gauge is too light for large or long-range waterfowl, yet it can be effective if you’re not going for anything bigger than a mallard (versus a giant Canada goose), and you’re set up to shoot birds within the effective range of your gun, choke and ammo. On the flip side, there are plenty of water fowlers who swear by pump shotguns because they’re less expensive and the action is more reliable than a semi-auto. Chokes are a matter of discussion, too. The choke, which is a narrowing at the muzzle, controls the size and density of the pellet pattern. Hunters expecting close-decoying ducks may use an improved cylinder, which produces a wide pattern. A full choke will produce tight patterns for longer range shots, and modified chokes hit the middle when it comes to patterning. Screw in choke tubes allow hunters to get maximum use out of one shotgun because by changing the choke, they’re able to go from hunting dove to wild turkey.

12. Loads to Learn Selecting the right shot shell load for water fowling is every bit as important as the right shotgun. Many hunters shoot steel although there are other nontoxic alternatives on the market including bismuth, tungsten and various alloys. While many people swear by bismuth and tungsten load performance, steel is common for water fowling because it costs less. The key is to find what works for you based on the shotgun and choke used, the type and size of waterfowl you plan to hunt and the distance you’re set up to shoot. It pays to experiment with different loads and chokes to see what delivers the best pattern and knockdown power. You’ll also want to put in some time at your local gun range sharpening your wings hooting skills by shooting trap, skeet, 5-stand or sporting clays.

13. Shotgun fit Shotgun fit" is a term of vague familiarity to most duck hunters. They've heard it, but they've never really understood what a proper shotgun fit entails and how it can affect their shooting ability. Instead, most hunters select a factory gun off the rack, and if it "feels right," they purchase it and start hunting with it – imprecise, but effective for the majority. This is because most mass-produced shotguns come with factory stocks made for the shooter of average size, and the shooter adapts to the shotgun. Still, hunters should have an idea of what fit is all about and how to tell whether or not their gun might, indeed, need modifications to provide a better fit. Sometimes it's necessary to adapt the shotgun to the shooter instead of vice versa. Here's the concept. A shotgun that fits is one that feels comfortable to its shooter, and when mounted, is a projection of the natural symmetry of his arms, head and eyes. In other words, when a shotgun fits, it rises fluidly to the shoulder and cheek with the shooter's eyes aligned naturally down the barrel without him having to think about it. This causes the shotgun to flow and point precisely where the shooter is looking. In contrast, a shotgun with improper fit feels clumsy in the mount and fails to achieve proper sight alignment naturally. First, when you mount a shotgun, check to see how much distance there is between your thumb and your nose as you're looking down the barrel. You need at least an inch of separation. With any less, there's a likelihood of recoil (especially when shooting heavy duck loads) causing your hand to strike your nose. This obviously breaks a shooter's concentration and negatively impacts his accuracy." A shotgun with a stock that's the right length in warm weather when you're wearing one thin layer of clothes may be too long when it's cold and you're wearing several layers of heavy clothing. This can be remedied by adding a recoil boot in warm months to increase stock length and then taking it off during cold months. another way to adjust stock length is to add or remove spacers that come with most guns in front of the recoil pad. In extreme cases, a wooden stock may be shortened by cutting it to a desired length. The best way to discern what works best is to take a shotgun to a trap range and shoot straightaway targets repeatedly. Just see what feels right and what sight picture is working best. Then make whatever stock adjustments you need to to get that sight picture without having to think about it." Most hunters can get a reasonable fit by making their own adjustments to their shotguns. However, a discriminating shooter may consider working with a qualified gun fitter to alter the stock on a shotgun or to replace the factory stock with a customized, made-to-fit stock. Obviously this option requires more expense on the shooter's part to achieve the high quality he demands.

14. Shooting Tips Keep Your Eyes on the Prize, Seeing a target is the first step to hitting it, The gun is merely a tool, and your eyes are the greatest asset you have. The first lesson with shooters is learning how well you are actually seeing the target. When waterfowl hunting, many times this means seeing the bird—sometimes many birds—as well as the direction they are traveling, their speed and the angle of descent or ascent. While we understand that a mallard drake decoying in a snowstorm makes for a much different shot than a left-to-right crossing target on a sporting clays range, it's still all about target acquisition. Making visual contact and maintaining contact is crucial for shooters. Many people are caught looking at the end of gun. If you look at the end of the gun, you can't see the target. That's like trying to drive a car, but staring at the steering wheel. Your instincts are what make you a great shot, and applying those instincts on a good visual target is the first step to hitting it. Follow Through the Target While target acquisition is an important first step to a successful shot, many shooters struggle with maintaining a fluid swing while tracking the target in flight. Shooters bring the gun up and shoot, then immediately pull the gun away to look at the target. The reason to keep your head down on the gun is because a shotgun doesn't have a rear sight. The rear sight is your eye. Similar to a rifle, moving the rear sight—even slightly—changes the gun's aiming point. This is a common mistake made by shooters on close decoying shots. As the bird fills the shooter's field of vision, many shooters lift their head in anticipation of seeing the bird fall, which pushes the gun—and the shot—off target. Watch Your Gun Speed Blue-winged teal buzzing the decoys and a mallard circling overhead are obviously moving at two very different speeds. Being able to adjust the speed of your gun to the target is another essential skill. Much like trying to take a picture of a duck in flight, you have to keep the camera moving at the same speed as the bird to keep it in focus. We fail to realize the importance of keeping your gun moving at the same speed as the target and, far more important, getting the exact lead. Going to the range and focusing on these three fundamentals—visualizing the target, following through the shot and gun speed—will provide the essential skills need to consistently shoot well.. There are so many different shots waterfowl hunters face in the field, it's hard to mimic them on the range. It's better to diversify your shots, and once you get that target focus and establish the basic fundamentals, your instincts will do the rest.

15. Types of Duck Calls Single reed and double reed are the two different types of calls used for duck hunting. Single reeds are used for larger volume situations when the hunter wants to produce larger sounds to entice the birds from far distances (open water, fields, lakes, large marshes). A large open water flooded soybean field. Larger volume duck call would be most effective on this wetland. Double reed calls are used to produce duck sounds at lower volumes so that the birds are not spooked by loud sounds (timber hunting, sloughs, or any situation were the ducks are working close). Both single and double reed calls are made out of either wood or acrylic. Wood calls produce a smoother and less loud sound when acrylic calls are typically used for competition calling. Acrylic calls allow the hunter to be more versatile and create large and high pitches. Basic Midwest Duck Calls & Methods Quack- The quack is a one note call that mallards use. Once a caller is able to master the quack they are able to use it to create several other duck sounds. Hail Call-The hail call is used to entice the bird at large distances away. It is a heavily disputed call that is typically used greatly during competition calling. Some hunters believe it is effective and some do not. Greeting Call-The greeting call is the most common duck sound produced by hunters and mallard hens. It is a five note call that greets the ducks into your duck spread. If over used it may scare the ducks, but if used properly will increase hunting success. Feeding Call-This is the sound that waterfowl make when they are eating. It is a heavily debated call as well. Some believe it is affective and some do not. When mixed with a quack or greeting call it can be very realistic sounding. Comeback Call-This call is the opposite of the greeting call. It is used when mallards are flying away and you want them to come back to your spread. It can be used at different volumes and can be highly affective.

16. Ten Duck calling tips 1.As long as the ducks are coming in, forget calling. 2.When the ducks start an erratic wing beat, hit them with a comeback call immediately to bring them back on line. 3.If they look as if they may drift off-line, use single quacks and feed calls to bring them back online. 4.Try calling at birds as they circle when they quarter into the wind. This will make it easier for them to set up for a landing zone into the wind. (Anticipate their swing.) 5.Remember your whistle and mix these sounds in with your mallard call. Youngsters can blow these with ease and feel partly responsible for bringing the ducks in! The mallard drake sound should not be discounted either, especially on windless days! 6.Always start high and come down the scale smoothly with no "start-up note." 7.If possible use a call that applies to the species you're trying to call. Speak their language (e.g. blue-winged teal, use a bluewing call). 8.When team calling, one person should be the leader while the others just fill in. Don't compete against yourselves. 9.Realize that not all ducks are callable and that even real ducks do not call in all the ducks all the time. 10.Be different! If what you are doing isn't working - CHANGE! Don't get stuck in a rut!

17. How to avoid hypothermia Hypothermia is the process of cooling to death. It begins when body temperature drops below 98.6 degrees and stays there long enough that critical organs first slow, then stop functioning. It is most common locally after a person has been immersed in cold water and remains wet. But it can happen to dry people -- and it can happen in non-freezing conditions. People immersed in 70-degree water long enough have died of hypothermia. Stages • Symptoms begin with shivering, the body's automatic response to create heat through muscle movement. If you can't stop the shivering by adding a layer of clothes or a hat, or getting out of wind or cold, then seek shelter immediately. • When body temperature drops below 95, shivering is replaced by rigid muscles, impaired coordination, difficulty in decision-making and slurred speech. Victims must be warmed quickly - that means stopping heat loss and/or finding shelter. • At 86 degrees body temperature, the victim is in a drowsy stupor or is already unconscious. Survival depends on discovery by others. Prevention • Leave a trip plan at home, with other hunters or the marina, so rescuers will know when and where to look if you don't return by a stated deadline. • Carry a cell phone or VHF radio. • Wear proper clothing. Dress in layers, rather than one thick garment. Layers can be adjusted for changing temperatures, and in case of immersion, layers are easier to dry than one heavy jacket or coat. The first layer should be thermal underwear, the second an outer shirt and pants, the third sweaters/vests, and the outer layer should protect against wind and rain and include jacket, pants and head, foot and hand covering. Because of our wet environment, all materials should be synthetic. Cotton and down are worse than worthless when wet -- they can kill you, because they absorb moisture and are slow to dry. Don't wear blue jeans or flannel or chamois shirts or cotton thermal underwear. • Carry and use all safety equipment, especially life jackets. Studies show immersion victims wearing float jackets live 70 percent longer than those without. • Carry an emergency kit. Pack a waterproof container with an extra pair of thermals, waterproof fire-making kit (lighter, fire ribbon, etc.) for warmth and for signaling, emergency shelter, high-energy food bars, a signaling device (flashlight, flare gun, cell phone). • Pay close attention to tidal conditions. Cold fronts often can drop tides quickly, stranding hunters on mud flats or in blinds. • If you're running one of the new mud-drive boats, don't make the mistake of thinking it can get you across a mud flat. Most need a few inches of water to operate. • If you're stranded, don't try to walk or swim out, your chances are much better staying put and waiting for help, even if you are wet. • Conserve energy by staying in the blind, out of the wind. If you filed a trip plan and have your emergency kit, you should be fine.

18. If you get wet • Remove wet clothing immediately. If you don't have a dry set, find the best wind break possible, remove your clothing a piece at a time, squeeze it as dry as possible, then put it back on. Synthetic insulation and wool will continue to trap body heat even when moist. Down and cotton will not. Some experts recommend stuffing any light, dry material (leaves, marsh grass, newspapers) between your body and the wet first layer. • Remember to keep your head covered -- 40 percent of body heat is lost through the head. • Use whatever resources are at hand for a shelter. Turn a pirogue, canoe or boat over and crawl under it. If you're near tall marsh grass or cane, cut some for a ground layer, then pull the rest on top of you. • Two or more people should huddle together to share and conserve warmth. Treatment If you have access to a fire or stove, consume warm liquids. Never consume alcoholic beverages, because alcohol lowers body temperature and impairs judgment. Warm a victim while waiting for medical help by placing him in a tub (not a shower) of warm water. Start with water only slightly warm to the touch, gradually increase the temperature until it is hot.

19. Five tips for staying concealed 1. Cover Your Face and Hands "Leaving faces and hands left uncovered is one of the more common mistakes," Coluccy says. "Keeping those hands and faces covered is even more important if you've got hunters shifting around in the blind. Waterfowl possess an acute sense of vision that allows them to detect very, very slight movements, so wearing something on your face and your hands and minimizing movement is critical." 2. Find the Right Pattern A waterfowl's ability to detect minute differences in color in other birds means hunters must choose the appropriate clothing for the marsh and the field. Hunters wearing a dark brown pattern in front of a lightly colored backdrop—or vice versa—will appear silhouetted against their surroundings, The outline of a person is as much a sign of danger as a fox or aerial predator. Blending in is especially important when sunny blue skies have been replaced by gray clouds. 3. Stay in the Shadows Natural shadows allow you to disappear. When sun shines in their eyes, they just can't pull you out of that dark back ground. Whether you're in a permanent blind or hunting in natural cover, utilize those shadows when the conditions are bright and sunny.. While shadows cast by a full-bodied duck or goose decoy are natural, field hunters are at a disadvantage when the sun hits a layout blind. Placing the layout blind in a natural depression in the field, or digging a shallow footprint to lower the profile of the blind, are two ways to minimize any unwanted shadows. Hunters can also try placing decoys on elevated stakes around the blind at its highest points to break up its outline and create an illusion that plays on waterfowl's weakened sense of depth perception. 4. Don't Let Your Guard Down Keeping movement to a minimum while waterfowl are approaching a decoy spread is important, but so, too, is staying still when the birds are headed the other direction. With eyes on the sides of their head, waterfowl lack binocular vision. but they compensate for that by moving their heads from side to side, continually getting images from both eyes. 5. Provide a Distraction When minimal surrounding cover, flat light, or other conditions affect a hunter's ability to hide, Use well-placed motion in the decoys and, if possible, by shifting blind location. A quiver magnet, jerk string, or spinning-wing decoy will focus the attention of swinging birds away from hunters, while layout blinds or a makeshift blind positioned to the side of the decoys will provide quartering or crossing shots. In a situation where it's tough to hide, you do what you can to keep the eyes of those ducks and geese off of you and on the decoys,

20. Decoys NUMBERS - Let's first talk about the number of decoys needed. You can't own too many decoys. More is always better. If you are walking into your hunting area, pack as many as you can carry; at least three dozen. If you are just starting out, buy as many as you can afford, then add a dozen or two each year. Soon you will have not quite enough. SIZE - Decoys come in three basic sizes: standard, magnum and super mag. Bigger decoys can be more effective by showing up better to ducks in the air. Many times, I have had ducks glide over standard size mallard decoys and land among giant Canada goose decoys. But since today's standard mallard decoys are as big or bigger than real ducks, you can make just as good a showing with plenty of standard-sized ones. PRICE - The decoy business is extremely competitive. Lately, the best buy on the market has been the Flambeau 4500WA. It is an excellent looking, water-keel, standard decoy which is actually a little over-sized. Last year they listed for $60 a dozen. But if you watched for sales you could have bought them for under $30.00 a dozen, just about anywhere. That is an excellent buy. KEELS - There are basically two types of keels. Water-keel, which is usually hollow or flow through, (and some fill with water), and weighted-keel. A weighted-keel is usually filled with sand and sealed. They are at least $10 per dozen higher and much heavier if you have to pack them in on foot. The only advantage of weighted versus water-keel is that they set upright better if you have to throw your decoys out; as from a boat. The new design water-keel keeps the decoy upright in most waters, and they swim very life-like.

21. Rigging your decoys I like to hunt freelance style and follow birds as they move around on their wintering grounds. As a result, my decoy spreads must be portable—carried in mesh bags and gathered up at the end of each hunt. I keep two separate spreads of 36 decoys bagged and ready to go: one rigged for shallow waters and another for deeper water. All are rigged straight-line; that is, each decoy has its own line and weight. Shallow-water hunts typically occur in soft-bottom areas where there is little wind or current. Thus, I can get by rigging with shorter lines and lighter weights. I like the newer combination of PVC line with a length of rubber tubing and an L-shaped lead anchor on the end. With this system, line is wrapped around the decoy’s keel, and then the rubber section is stretched until the L-shaped weight can be hooked around the keel. This system is also very quick to use and eliminates wear on the decoy’s paint. If you hunt mostly in shallow water, you might want to Texas-rig your decoys. A big advantage of Texas-rigging is how quickly it allows you to put out and pick up your decoys, it also really cuts down on tangles. Rigs each decoy with about four feet of decoy line. Use two-ounce teardrop weights (also called bank sinkers) and crimps to secure the line. Thread about six inches of one end of the line through a crimp and then runs the tag end through the weight. Finishe by bringing the end of the line back through the other side of the crimp, clamping it tight, and trimming off the excess. Treads a similar loop on the other end of the line through another crimp and then through the keel of the decoy. But dont cinch the crimp all the way to the decoy’s keel. I like to leave the loop between the crimp and keel large enough for my thumb to go through. You can roll the lines of a dozen or so Texas-rigged decoys into a circle, tie them in place with a loose overhand knot, and secure them with a carabiner (D-ring).

22. SETTING DECOYS I've seen many diagrams on how to set decoys, but the best spreads are set by either common sense or trial and error. What you want is for the ducks to land directly in front of you, in the "shooting hole." To do this you need to understand that ducks always bank against the wind and they will almost always land short of the bigger part of your spread. I love sunny, windy days, but I don't want the sun in my face, plus, many times new flights come in from the north. If the wind is coming from the west and you are facing north, put about 3/4 of your decoys on the west side, starting about 15 yards out and ending at about 30 yards out. Spread them at least 4 feet apart so they can move freely without tangling up with each other. Set the rest to the east side, in two or three smaller bunches. Loose groups make them appear more relaxed, like they have been there awhile. This should leave an good opening directly in front of the you "the shooting hole." Set two or three hen decoys (calling hens) nearer the blind to help to distract the ducks from your calling. Different wind conditions will require you to set decoys accordingly. CALM DAYS - Most of my hunting areas are open prairie ponds. Perfect decoying conditions are sunny, windy days when new ducks are coming down to our area. The worse days are calm days with no wind on the water to bring the decoys alive. Ducks like to see lots of activity on the water before they decide to land. Even professional calling and a huge spread of decoys can't fool a duck that is looking at mirror-calm water with no apparent life. To solve this problem, there are decoys available that are battery operated. They will quiver, shake, and make waves, adding life to your spread. One model is even in the feeding position. They cost between $25 and $50 each, use one or two "AA" batteries and claim to run for 25 hours or more. A less expensive method is to anchor one or more decoys to the bottom and run string from them to the blind. When you yank on the line it bobs the decoy up and down, creating waves. ICE - If you've hunted shallow marsh for several seasons, you'll know all about those frozen-up days. And, if you haven't learned already, you should know about the duck hunter's favorite tool ... the shovel. When the ice is only windowpane thick, you can usually sweep it open fairly easily, making waves with the backside of a shovel. When ice is too thick to sweep, you can break out a big circle and shove the piece under the other ice with your shovel. Chunks of ice on top will not look normal to ducks, so be sure to push it underneath. Even if you can only manage to break out a small hole, it can help when things are frozen up real tight. Ducks still need to water after feeding. When I'm faced with that situation, I set out a dozen or so decoys in a small hole and then add a few of the new standing decoys on top of the ice around it. If you are a true duck hunter, it's never too cold to hunt.

23. Spinning wing duck decoys These can be one of the most effective decoying tools a duck hunter can use. The migrating, the younger and the early season ducks are drawn to the flash of a spinning wing decoy as if they are on a string and you are pulling them in. There has been much controversy over the use of this decoy by DFG, hunters, activists, governmental agencies, etc. as to the use being an unfair advantage and that more birds will be taken during the hunting season. The flash of the spinning wing simulates landing ducks and can pull in ducks from great distances. Point the wings of your spinning wing decoy downwind as this will be the direction ducks will come into your spread. The more flash that is created, by using multiple spinning wing decoys the farther away ducks can see your spread. Spinning wing decoys are most effective during the big migration when the northern plains have frozen over and the ducks push south for warmer weather. They are also effective during the early season. During these times you want to put your spinning wing decoy in the exact spot you want the birds to land. The birds will come in feet down and try to land on your spinner. On non-migration days or late season heavily hunted birds, you want to place the spinning decoy up or down wind 20 yards outside your decoys or off to the side. Experienced birds tend not to land where the spinner is located. The spinners will attract the ducks, give them a hole in your decoys to land. On overcast days the effectiveness of the spinning wings goes down when there is little sunlight hitting the wings. Don’t use your spinner on cloudy days as the motion will scare incoming ducks more than it will attract them. Ducks have seen these decoys from Canada all the way down to your hunting spot and the farther south you are, the harder time you will have trying to attract them. On migration days when the sky is full of ducks, the spinning wing decoy is unbelievable the ducks drop out of the sky. If you also do goose hunting while duck hunting you will find that the spinning wing will flare the geese off your spread. Things that can be done so the geese will not flare are remote control spinners, but every time I see geese coming I can never get to my remote in time.

24. Five scouting dos and don’ts Do: Pre-scout Scouting either for a field or pond begins at home. Make a game plan by utilizing computer programs and Internet web browsers that offer free mapping tools and satellite imagery. Although it is difficult to tell how outdated the images may be, general geographical information and large bodies of water should remain relatively unchanged. Look for tracts of land with high concentrations of ponds and sloughs – the likeliest locations for finding hunt able numbers of ducks and geese. Don’t: Count on Internet help There are hundreds of outdoors sites online, and dozens that specifically cater to water fowling. These forums offer species-specific tips and tactics for nearly every situation, state and province. Almost any question can be answered online – except where to hunt. There is no faster way to get ridiculed than to ask for even general areas to find birds. At best, you’ll be told to put on some miles and scout like everyone else. At worst – well, let’s just say the Internet can be as angry a place as it is helpful. Do: Collect maps Maps come in all shapes and sizes. Thanks to today’s Internet-synched world, they’re easy to come by. Even though GPS units are key for marking locations, having a large sheet of paper in your hand still puts things in perspective. Check your state’s wildlife department for resources. In North Dakota, for example, the Game and Fish Department puts out a PLOTS Guide that shows almost every acre of huntable land. Pick up a county plat book, which lists names of landowners, and indicates exactly who owns what. Do: Bring a buddy They say two heads are better than one, and when it comes to scouting, this certainly rings true. Driving back roads while keeping one eye peeled for ducks on the wing is difficult and dangerous. Bring along a buddy to help watch the passing countryside, man the binoculars, and keep up general chitchat (preferably about hunting) when the long hours on the road get monotonous. Who knows? They might help pay for gas, too. Do: Plan your time wisely Knowing how and what you are hunting also means knowing when to scout. If you’re looking for a transition slough to set up a puddle duck spread, consider scouting late morning after birds have fed and are loafing on water. If looking for a field feed of hungry geese or ducks, the first few hours after sunrise or before sunset are best. Just remember that while waterfowl are creatures of habit, their flight patterns can change on a dime because of shifts in weather or hunting pressure. When in doubt, scout both morning and evening to make sure the birds you found earlier in the day are returning later, and not simply one-hit wonders. This might also give you an idea of how many other pairs of eyes have seen the same ducks you have. You might have to get to the field right before shooting time, or spend the night in your blinds.

25. How to Clean Wild Duck Many hunters love to shoot ducks but aren't sure of the best way to clean and prepare the meat. Wild duck does take special care in cleaning and cooking to make the game meat palatable. Although some hunters like to use up virtually every part of the bird, most find only the breast palatable. Remember, too, that ducks cleaned promptly taste far better than those allowed to sit before preparation. 1 . Cover a study work surface (like a table) with a large plastic bag and several layers of newspaper. Work over these layers to prevent meat juices from leaking onto the table's surface. 2 . Cut off the wings as close to the wing joint as you can, using game shears (available at hunting supply stores). 3 . Pluck feathers off the duck's breast, beginning at the top, near the neck. 4. Place a small cut into the skin immediately over the breastbone, using a sharp filleting knife. 5. Hold the breast skin firmly in one hand and pull it back and down. This will expose the breast meat. 6. Slice down the breast from the wing joint to the breastbone. Be sure to slice all the way down to the bone. 7. Slice along the breastbone until the meat comes clean from the bone. 8. Cut the fillet away from the connecting tissue and skin. This should completely remove the fillet from the bird. 9. Repeat this procedure on the opposite side of the bird.

26. How to Clean & Pluck a Fresh Duck 1 Put on work gloves and position the duck on a hard surface. Grab the first wing as far away from the the body as possible while retaining a solid grip. Cut the wing off with shears as close to the body of the duck as possible. Repeat for the other wing. Now cut off the duck's feet as close to the knee as possible. 2 Grab the duck with one hand and use your other hand to pull off the duck's feathers in small clumps. Small amounts of feathers should be easy to remove, but if you try to remove too much at once the process may become more difficult. You do not need to remove all of the duck's feathers; the paraffin will remove the rest. Be sure to remove the large tail feathers. 3 Fill one bucket with cold water and put aside. Heat enough water in the other bucket to submerge the duck completely. Add the paraffin to the hot water. The water needs to be hot enough to melt the paraffin completely, but do not bring to a boil. 4 Remove the paraffin bucket from the stove. Grasp the duck's head and dunk the duck a number of times in the paraffin until the duck is completely covered with wax. Place the duck in the bucket of cold water and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes. The paraffin will harden in this time. Remove the duck from the cold water and peel off the paraffin. This will remove the rest of the down and feathers. You can put the hardened paraffin directly back into the bucket of melted paraffin for use with additional ducks. 5 Cut off the head and the tail with the knife and remove the entrails. The duck is now oven ready.

27. How to Prepare a plucked Duck Wild duck tends to have a heartier flavor than domestic ducks raised specifically for the meat. A wild dark has a dark, rich meat, and the fat content is directly related to the time of year. Right after migration, they will have very little fat. As they recuperate from the flight, the fat content becomes significantly higher. Wild ducks vary greatly in taste depending on the particular species. Canvasbacks, ringnecks, teal and mallards have the best flavor, though the taste of the meat can vary depending on the diet of the duck. Wild ducks do not contain much meat and, at most, one duck feeds two people. 1. Place wild rice in a medium mixing bowl, cover with cold water and soak at room temperature overnight. 2. Lay the rice on paper towels and pat dry. Once the rice is completely dry, return it to the mixing bowl. 3. Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Stir in salt and pepper to taste. Mix the melted butter into the wild rice and set aside. 4. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Tuck the tips of the ducks' wings behind the back. Lightly stuff the ducks with the rice mixture, and tie the drumsticks across the opening with cooking twine. 5. Place the ducks on the rack in a roasting pan and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Roast for 30 minutes. 6. Drain off any melted fat, add wine to the roasting pan, and cover. Reduce the oven heat to 350 degrees Fahrenheit and roast for one to two hours longer. Baste with pan juices every 15 minutes. If you like a crispy skin, remove the lid for the last 30 minutes. 7. Use a meat thermometer to ensure that the duck has reached an internal temperature of at least 165 degrees before serving. Duck may be eaten when still slightly pink. Duck recipe - just use duck fillets. Whole fillets for teal and spoons. I split bigger duck breasts (mallards, pintails) into 2 pieces. Marinade is important. I like to marinade for 3-4 hours for best results. I use a bottle of fat free Italian dressing. Add Worchester sauce. Add Dale's Marinade (or just Soy Sauce). I also add Tony Chachere's seasoning to marinade. Wrap each fillet / chunk with bacon and hold together with toothpick. Sprinkle wrapped pieces with Tony's seasoning again. Grill over charcoal. 15 minutes or when bacon starts to get done. Don't overcook duck meat. Finished meat should be about 130-140 degrees.

28. Guidelines for ethical hunting of waterfowl The concept of ethical hunting has been around for some time and it is important that all hunters have an understanding of its principles and practise these when in the field. Ethical hunting means that a person knows and respects the game hunted, follows the law and behaves in a way that will satisfy what society expects of a hunter. Ethical hunters are familiar with the places they hunt, the wildlife that live there and the way they should behave when hunting. Practicing ethical hunting techniques in the field will ensure that you get the most out of your hunting experience and will assist to secure the future of your recreational activity. There are three key aspects to ethical hunting: •knowing and respecting the game: understanding the birds and their habitat, and treating them fairly and with respect ; •obeying the law: laws and regulations have been introduced to ensure that hunting is conducted in a safe, responsible and sustainable manner; and •behaving in the right manner: hunter behavior has a direct impact on public opinion; remember your actions may impact on the future of duck hunting. Respect ‘fair chase’ One of the key components of ethical hunting is the concept of ‘fair chase’. This means giving the game a sporting chance.All ethical duck hunters will ensure that ducks are not unduly harassed during a hunt. The improper and illegal use of boats or vehicles is considered to be highly unethical and is inconsistent with the concept of ‘fair chase’.Avoidmechanised pursuit in any form; a true hunter makes every effort to ensure the contest is as fair as possible. Also, wherever possible, do not fire at birds on the water. This is unethical and could result in injury to other hunters or non-game birds by ricocheting shot. If it is necessary to dispatch an injured bird on the water, make sure there is nothing in front of or behind your line of fire.

29. Guidelines for ethical hunting of waterfowl Concentrate on shot placement The first priority for all duck hunters when hunting is to identify the intended target as a game species. Once you are sure it is a game species: single out your bird; do not fire into flocks, as this may injure other birds, including protected species . Further, it is very important to make sure that the bird is within range, before you pull the trigger. Good hunters know their personal shooting capabilities and the capabilities of their firearms and do not shoot at ducks beyond a range of 30 metres. Follow up every shot No hunter will dispatch every duck instantly. Sometimes your first shot may not be fatal. If this happens, it is your responsibility to handle the matter swiftly and ethically. This means focusing on the wounded duck – you should follow the duck, find it and ensure that it is dispatched quickly and in a humane way. A well-trained dog will increase you chances of retrieving a downed bird. Practice makes perfect Ethical hunters practice their marksmanship before entering the field. This will not only maximize the chances of cleanly dispatching birds, but will make your hunting experience more enjoyable. Choose a suitable hunting locationIn areas of tall reed growth, where your view is restricted and birds may be lost so it is important to position yourself so that birds fall into open water. Ethical hunters always choose a hunting spot where "downed" birds can be recovered quickly. Respect dispatched game Once a duck is dispatched it should be properly handled to minimize waste. Never shoot a duck if you know you are not going to use it. Avoid wasting a valuable game resource. Prepare game quickly and never leave game to waste. Respect the habitat Quality habitat is the key to a healthy population of game and other wildlife. To help keep our wetlands clean, make sure you collect all spent cartridges. Do not leave cartridges in the water or on land, as they become plastic litter and you can be fined for leaving them behind.

30. Guidelines for ethical hunting of waterfowl Respect the opinions of non-hunters People who are unfamiliar with hunting practices may be intimidated by the presence of firearms, so be sympathetic to their concerns. Be considerate, be courteous and show the public that duck hunters are responsible and ethical recreationalists. Good hunting behavior will reflect on people’s opinions of all hunters. Rude, illegal and irresponsible actions can prejudice the community against all hunters. Respect private property and landowner rights Responsible behavior on private property means appreciating and respecting the rights of landowners or managers. If you have been given permission to hunt on private property, you should ask the landowner or manager where they want you to hunt, if there are any areas you should avoid and where you should park your car. You should always respect their decisions. Leave gates as you find them and be sure to hunt well away from people, livestock, buildings and crops. Make sure you are fit You must be physically capable of following a duck under any circumstances, over various types of terrain. If you are well prepared physically, you will have a much better hunting experience. Choose your hunting companions wisely Choice of a hunting partner or companions is important to your hunting experience and to your safety, the safety of other hunters in the team and the safety of members of the public. Select people who have good ethics and avoid those who behave irresponsibly. The future The image of duck hunting depends on how you conduct yourself as a hunter, how you handle your firearms and how you respect the game you hunt. Remember that the public may judge all hunters by the irresponsible actions of a few. Therefore, every hunter should be an ambassador for the recreation.

31. Licenses/Stamps All waterfowl hunters 16 and older must have a federal Migratory Bird Hunting and Conservation Stamp, and all hunters who are required to obtain a hunting license must also have a Kansas State Waterfowl Habitat Stamp and a Kansas Harvest Information Program (HIP) stamp before attempting to take ducks, geese, or mergansers. (Those not required to have a Kansas hunting license include people hunting their own land, and residents 15 and younger or 65 and older.) Kansas HIP Stamp: $2.50 State Waterfowl Stamp: $7 Federal Waterfowl Stamp: $16.50 Federal stamps must be signed across the face of the stamp. State stamps are available at any licensed agent or online , federal stamps at U.S. Postal Service and KDWP offices. Waterfowl stamps are not required to hunt coot, dove, rail, snipe, woodcock, or sandhill crane. HIP stamp is required, unless exempt. DUCKS, HIGH PLAINS UNIT •Season: To be set. •Area open: High Plains Zone (see map) •Daily bag limit: 6 •Possession limit: Twice the daily limit DUCKS, LOW PLAINS EARLY ZONE •Season: To be set. •Area open: Early Zone (see map) •Daily bag limit: 6 •Possession limit: Twice the daily limit DUCKS, LOW PLAINS LATE ZONE •Season: To be set. •Area open: Late Zone (see map) •Daily bag limit: 6 •Possession limit: Twice the daily limit DUCKS, LOW PLAINS SOUTHEAST ZONE •Season: To be set. •Area open: Southeast Zone (see map) •Daily bag limit: 6 •Possession limit: Twice the daily limit

32. NON-TOXIC SHOT Kansas requires non-toxic shot for hunting ALL migratory game birds except dove and woodcock. This includes ducks, geese, coots, mergansers, rails, sandhill cranes, and snipe. Legal shot is steel, bismuth-tin, tungsten-polymer, tungsten-iron, tungsten matrix, tungsten-nickle-iron, tungsten-ironnickel- tin, and steel shot coated with copper, nickel, zinc chromate, or zinc chloride. It is illegal to possess lead shot while hunting waterfowl or hunting in a Non-Toxic-Shot-Only area. “Possession" means that lead shot cannot be in a hunter’s gun, pockets, or in reach while in the process of hunting. Lead shot left in a vehicle is not considered “in possession.

33. About Ducks Unlimited Filling the skies with waterfowl today, tomorrow and forever. Ducks Unlimited is the world's leader in wetlands and waterfowl conservation. DU got its start in 1937 during the Dust Bowl when North America’s drought-plagued waterfowl populations had plunged to unprecedented lows. Determined not to sit idly by as the continent’s waterfowl dwindled beyond recovery, a small group of sportsmen joined together to form an organization that became known as Ducks Unlimited. Its mission: habitat conservation. Thanks to decades of abiding by that single mission, Ducks Unlimited is now the world’s largest and most effective private waterfowl and wetlands conservation organization. DU is able to multilaterally deliver its work through a series of partnerships with private individuals, landowners, agencies, scientific communities and other entities. Ducks Unlimited: Our Mission Ducks Unlimited conserves, restores, and manages wetlands and associated habitats for North America's waterfowl. These habitats also benefit other wildlife and people. Waterfowl conservation is facing important challenges as wetlands and other habitats are being degraded and destroyed across the continent. Ducks Unlimited has a vision to reverse this trend. Ducks Unlimited: Our Vision The vision of Ducks Unlimited is wetlands sufficient to fill the skies with waterfowl today, tomorrow and forever. DU will achieve our vision through diverse public and private partnerships to address the full range of factors that continue to erode waterfowl habitat across North America. Membership Ducks Unlimited is a grassroots, volunteer-based organization. Its members are conservationists and outdoor enthusiasts who live primarily throughout the United States, Canada and Mexico. DU volunteers host more than 4,000 grassroots fundraising events annually, such as member and sponsor banquets, shooting and fishing tournaments, and golf outings. Event dollars represent some of DU’s most important sources of revenue. Since event dollars are typically unrestricted, DU is able to spend these funds in our highest priority areas and use them to leverage additional funds from other sources. Non-Profit Status Ducks Unlimited, Inc. is tax exempt under section 501 (c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code. Our tax identification number is: 13-5643799.

34. DU Statement on Firearms We know that many of you have been following the recent debate on potential gun-control legislation. The potential for new firearms regulations or legislation is a complicated and divisive issue, and while there are no simple answers to the problem of reducing violence in our country, DU will continue to remain steadfast and focused on our mission of wetlands and waterfowl conservation, and in our support for hunters and a continued strong water fowling tradition. Ducks Unlimited was founded by hunter-conservationists 76 years ago, and conservation remains our mission. DU is first and foremost an organization dedicated to conserving wetlands for waterfowl, and the majority of our members are hunters. DU strongly supports the right to bear arms and believes that with that right comes a responsibility to use firearms lawfully and safely. The ownership and use of firearms is intertwined with wildlife management and conservation in North America, and we strongly support hunting. Without hunters and recreational shooters and their financial contributions through hunting licenses and excise taxes on sporting arms, national conservation funding would be decimated. We will continue to hold ourselves to the highest standards of gun safety, hunting ethics, and responsible firearms ownership and use.