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The UK is very small compared with many other countries in the world. Most of England consists of rolling lowland terrain, divided from more mountainous terrain in the northwest, north and southwest by the Tees-Exe line. Lower ranges include the limestone hills of the Isle of Purbeck, Cotswolds and Lincolnshire Wolds, and the chalk downs of the Southern England Chalk Formation. The main rivers and estuaries are the Thames, Severn and the Humber Estuary. There are only nine other countries with more people, and London is the world's seventh biggest city. Near Dover, the Channel Tunnel links the United Kingdom with France. The main areas of highland are in Scotland, Wales and Cumbria. Scotland's geography is varied, with lowlands in the south and east and highlands in the north and west, including Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the British Isles at 1,343 metres. There are many long and deep-sea arms, firths, and lochs. Scotland has nearly eight hundred islands, mainly west and north of the mainland, notably the Hebrides, Orkney Islands and Shetland Islands. The capital city is Edinburgh, the centre of which is a World Heritage Site. The largest city is Glasgow. In total, it is estimated that the UK includes around one thousand islands. Wales is mostly mountainous, the highest peak being Snowdon at 1,085 metres above sea level. North of the mainland is the island of Anglesey. The largest and capital city is Cardiff in South Wales; it has been the Welsh capital city since 1955. The greatest concentration of people live in the south, in the cities of Swansea and Newport, as well as Cardiff, and the South Wales Valleys. The largest town in North Wales is Wrexham.
Northumberland Holy Island Tyne and Wear Yorkshire Shropshire Cambridge Warwick Stratford upon Avon Gloucester Devon Dover Cornwall Brighton Isle of Wight Next Isles of Scilly
The four capitals of the United Kingdom's constituent countries are London (England), Edinburgh (Scotland), Cardiff (Wales) and Belfast (Northern Ireland). London is by far the UK's largest city, with a population of more than seven million. Birmingham is next with around 970,000, followed by Glasgow, with a population of around 590,000. There are many different statistics and debates on which cities are the UK's largest, due to differences between the administrative boundaries and metropolitan areas of cities, and because of merging of settlements into conurbations. After London, the West Midlands conurbation (which contains the cities of Birmingham and Wolverhampton) is the second largest urban area with around 2.28 million, followed by the Greater Manchester Urban Area (which contains the cities of Manchester and Salford) with 2.24 million. At the April 2001 UK Census, the United Kingdom's population was 58,789,194, the third-largest in the European Union (behind Germany and France) and the twenty-first largest in the world. This had been estimated up to 59,834,300 by the Office for National Statistics in 2004. Two years later it had increased to 60.2 million, largely from net immigration, but also because of a rising birth rate and increasing life expectancy. The UK's overall population density is one of the highest in the world. About a quarter of the population lives in England's prosperous south-east and is predominantly urban and suburban, with an estimated 7,517,700 in the capital of London.
Dover is a major channel port in the English county of Kent. At the 2001 census, the town of Dover proper had a population of 28,156 inhabitants, while the population of the whole urban area of Dover, as calculated by the Office for National Statistics, was 39,078 inhabitants.The town is the administrative centre of the Dover district. Dover is famous for its white cliffs, which are made of chalk. The cliffs gave Britain its nickname of Albion, meaning "white". The town's name derives from the Brythonic Dubrās ("the waters"). Its closeness to continental Europe it is only 34 kilometres (21 miles) from the French port of Calais – makes Dover one of the United Kingdom's busiest cross-Channel ports, with 18 million passengers passing through each year.
The white cliffs of Dover, immortalized in popular song and verse, are cliffs which form part of the British coastline facing the Strait of Dover and France. The cliffs are part of the North Downs formation. The cliff face, which reaches up to 350 feet high, owes its striking façade to its composition of chalk (pure white lime) accentuated by streaks of black flint. The cliffs spread east and west from the town of Dover in the county of Kent, an ancient and still important English port.
The cliffs have great symbolic value for Britain because they face towards Continental Europe across the narrowest part of the English Channel, where invasions have historically threatened and against which the cliffs form a symbolic guard. Because crossing at Dover was the primary route to the continent before air travel, the white line of cliffs also formed the first (or last) sight of the UK for travellers. On a clear day, the cliffs are easily visible from the French coast.
The city of Cambridge is an old English university town and the administrative centre of the county of Cambridgeshire. It lies approximately 50 miles (80 km) north-northeast of London and is surrounded by a number of smaller towns and villages. It is also at the heart of the high-technology centre known as Silicon Fen. Cambridge is best known for the University of Cambridge, which includes the renowned Cavendish Laboratory, King's College Chapel, and the Cambridge University Library. The Cambridge skyline is dominated by the last two, along with the chimney of Addenbrooke's Hospital in the far south of the city and St John's College Chapel tower in the north. According to the 2001 census, the City's population was 108,863 (including 22,153 students). However, the population of the urban area, which includes parts of South Cambridgeshire district is estimated to be 130,000.
The University of Cambridge is rich in history - its famous Colleges and University buildings attract visitors from all over the world. But the University's museums and collections also hold many treasures which give an exciting insight into some of the scholarly activities, both past and present, of the University's academics and students.
The University of Cambridge is one of the oldest universities in the world and one of the largest in the United Kingdom. Its reputation for outstanding academic achievement is known world-wide and reflects the intellectual achievement of its students, as well as the world-class original research carried out by the staff of the University and the Colleges. Many of the University's customs and unusual terminology can be traced to roots in the early years of the University's long history, and this booklet looks to the past to find the origins of much that is distinctive in the University of today. The University of Cambridge has more Nobel Prize winners than any other institution.
In 1209, students escaping from hostile townspeople in Oxford fled to Cambridge and formed a University there. The oldest college that still exists, Peterhouse, was founded in 1284. One of the most impressive buildings in Cambridge, King's College Chapel, was begun in 1446 by King Henry VI. The project was completed in 1515 during the reign of King Henry VIII. Cambridge University Press originated with a printing licence issued in 1534. Hobson's Conduit, the first project to bring clean drinking water to the town centre, was built in 1610 (by the Hobson of Hobson's choice). Parts of it survive today. Addenbrooke's Hospital was founded in 1766. The railway and station were built in 1845. According to legend, the University dictated their location: well away from the centre of town, so that the possibility of quick access to London would not distract students from their work. However, there is no basis for this in fact. Despite having a University, Cambridge was not granted its city charter until 1951. Cambridge does not have a cathedral, which was traditionally a pre-requisite for city status. Drawing on its links with the University, the Cambridge area today is sometimes referred to as Silicon Fen, due to the growth of high tech businesses and technology incubators that have sprung up in the series of science parks and other developments in and around the city. Such companies include Acorn Computers and Sinclair. The University was joined by the larger part of Anglia Ruskin University, and the educational reputation has led to other bodies (such as the Open University in East Anglia) basing themselves in the city. The University has a large number of museums that are open to the public.
Brighton is located on the south coast of England, and together with its immediate neighbour Hove forms the city of Brighton and Hove. Brighton is one of the largest and most famous seaside resorts in the United Kingdom. With origins dating before the Domesday Book (1086), the ancient settlement of Brighthelmston emerged as an important health resort during the 18th century and a popular destination for day-trippers after the arrival of the railway in 1841. Brighton experienced rapid population growth reaching a peak of over 160,000 by 1961. Modern Brighton forms part of a conurbation stretching along the coast, known as the Brighton urban area by the Office for National Statistics, with a population of around 480,000.Brighton is a popular tourist resort with numerous hotels, restaurants and entertainment facilities, which additionally serve a substantial business conference industry. The modern city of Brighton and Hove is also an important educational centre with two universities and many English language schools.
A major tourist attraction is the pebble beach, which has a variety of bars, restaurants, night clubs and amusement arcades. Together with the attractions further inland, these contribute to Brighton being sometimes referred to as "London-by-the-sea"; it certainly offers one of the most accessible tourist beaches from London. Brighton beach has a designated official nudist area (south of the easterly part of Kemptown). This is unusual in that very few naturist beaches in the United Kingdom are located within urban areas. Brighton is associated with notable popular music artists including The Levellers, The Kooks and Fatboy Slim. There are over 365 pubs and many nightclubs. There are also many live music venues including the large Brighton Centre and the Concorde II'.
Brighton hosts a number of conferences including those held annually by major political parties, often based around the Brighton Centre, Grand Hotel and Metropole Hotel. A wide range of sport and leisure clubs, in particular cycling and motoring clubs, annually hold London to Brighton events, culminating in a display on the Madeira Drive section of the seafront, which is closed to traffic for this purpose on many Sundays throughout the summer months. Each May the city of Brighton and Hove hosts an arts festival. This includes organised processions such as the Children's Parade, outdoor spectaculars often involving pyrotechnics, and theatre, music and visual arts in venues throughout the city, some of which are brought into this use exclusively for the festival. The earliest feature of the festival, "Open Houses", are homes of artists and craftspeople, opened up to the public as galleries and usually selling the work of the inhabitant and their friends.
Brighton has a number of museums including the City-run Brighton Museum and Art Gallery, the Booth Museum of Natural History, the Brighton Fishing Museum and the Brighton Toy and Model Museum. There are many privately run galleries, including some in the arches on the seafront. A widespread practice is to display and sell art in cafés, and even bars. Churchill Square is an indoor shopping centre with a floor space of 470,000 sq ft (43,663 m²) and includes 85 shops, 5 restaurants and 1,600 car parking spaces. It was originally built in the 1960s as an open-air pedestrianised shopping centre, but was completely rebuilt in 1998. Further mainstream retail areas include Western Road and London Road. Brighton has a high density of businesses involved in media in general, particularly digital or "new media" companies, and since the 1990s has sometimes been referred to as "Silicon Beach".
The University of Brighton, the former Brighton Polytechnic, has a student population of 20,017 of which 80% are undergraduates. The University is located on several separate sites in Brighton, with additional buildings in Falmer and Eastbourne. The University of Sussex is a "plate glass university" based on a campus between Stanmer Park and Falmer, four miles from the city centre. It has a student population of 10,563 of which 70% are undergraduates. A wide range of non-university courses for students aged over 16, mainly in vocational education subjects, is provided at the further education college, City College Brighton & Hove.
Devon is a large county in South West England, bordered by Cornwall to the west, Dorset and Somerset to the east. It is unique among English counties, in that it has two separated coastlines. Both parts of the Devon coastline are part of the South West Coast Path. Although Devon is now the formal and generally accepted name, for many centuries the county had been called "Devon" or "Devonshire", according to personal taste, and the latter remains in common usage. The name Devonshire still features in some names and titles (such as the Duke of Devonshire - although this title is not actually linked to Devon, the family estates being based in Derbyshire. The Earl of Devon was more closely linked with Devon), and is still to be seen on occasional signposts in the county and elsewhere. The Dorset and East Devon Coast, otherwise known as the Jurassic Coast, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Geologically, Devon, along with its neighbour Cornwall is known as the "Cornubian massif". Back to the Map
Cornwall (Cornish: Kernow) is a county in South West England, United Kingdom on the peninsula that lies to the west of the River Tamar. The administrative centre and only city is Truro, although historical capitals have been Launceston and Bodmin. Cornwall covers an area of 1,376 square miles (3,563 km²), including the Isles of Scilly, located 28 miles (45 km) offshore. Cornwall has a population of 513,528, with a population density of 144 people/km², or 373/mile². Tourism forms a significant part of the local economy; however, Cornwall is one of the poorest areas in the United Kingdom with the lowest per capita contribution to the national economy. Cornwall is the historic homeland of the Cornish people and also is considered one of the six historic "Celtic nations" by many residents. Some inhabitants question the present constitutional status of Cornwall, referring to it not as a county, but as a Duchy separate from England. Back to the Map
The Isles of Scilly (Cornish: Ynysek Syllan) form an archipelago of islands off the southwesternmost tip of England. Traditionally administered as part of the county of Cornwall, the islands now have their own Council of the Isles of Scilly. They are also designated the Isles of Scilly Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The islands are correctly referred to as the Isles of Scilly, or simply as Scilly; the terms "Scillies" and "Scilly Isles" are considered incorrect by locals. The Isles of Scilly form an archipelago of six inhabited islands and numerous other small rocky islets (around 140 in total) lying 45 km (28 miles) off Land's End – the most southwesterly point of England. Back to the Map
Back to the Map Popular from Victorian times as a holiday resort, the Isle of Wight is known for its natural beauty and as home to the Royal Yacht Squadron at Cowes, a town that hosts a world famous annual regatta. Colloquially, it is known as "The Island" by its residents. It possesses a rich history including its own brief status as a vassal kingdom in the fifteenth century, home to poet Alfred Lord Tennyson and Queen Victoria's much loved summer residence and final home Osborne House. Its maritime history encompasses boat building and sail making through to the manufacture of flying boats and the world's first hovercraft. Its space history includes the launch of the Black Arrow and Black Knight space rockets. The Isle of Wight is an English island and county, off the southern English coast, to the south of the county of Hampshire. It is part of the United Kingdom.
It is home to the Isle of Wight Festival, which, in 1970, was one of the largest rock music events ever held, with estimates reaching 600,000 attendees, overtaking the record set at Woodstock a year earlier. The Isle of Wight Festival was revived in 2002 to critical acclaim, headliners in 2006 were Coldplay, Foo Fighters and The Prodigy. The island is also one of the richest fossil locations for dinosaurs in Europe. In 686 AD, it became the last part of the British Isles to convert to Christianity, almost a century after the rest of Great Britain. The island is the smallest ceremonial county in England (when not including Bristol or the City of London) at 380 km², just beating the revived Rutland at 382 km². With just one Member of Parliament and 132,731 permanent residents in the 2001 census, it is also the most populated Parliamentary constituency in the United Kingdom.
Ironbridge is a settlement beside the River Severn, at the heart of the Ironbridge Gorge in Shropshire, England. It lies in the parish of The Gorge, in the borough of Telford and Wrekin. The village grew up beside, and takes its name from the famous Iron Bridge, a 30 metre (100 foot) cast iron bridge that was built across the river there in 1779. The area around Ironbridge is described as the "Birthplace of the Industrial Revolution" because it includes Coalbrookdale and Broseley, where Abraham Darby I perfected the technique of smelting iron with coke, allowing much cheaper production of iron. The grandson of the first Abraham Darby, Abraham Darby III, built the famous bridge to link the two areas in 1779. Soon afterwards the ancient Madeley market was relocated to the new purpose built Square and Georgian Butter Cross and the former dispersed settlement of Madeley Wood gained a planned urban focus as Ironbridge, the commercial and administrative centre of the Coalbrookdale coalfield. The Iron Bridge proprietors also built the Tontine Hotel to accommodate visitors to the new Bridge and the industrial sights of the Gorge. On the hillside above the river are situated, the stone-built 16th century hunting Lodge at Lincoln Hill, many 17th and 18th century workers cottages, some imposing Georgian houses built by ironmasters and mine and barge owners, and many early Victorian villas built from the various coloured bricks and tiles of the locality.
The Ironbridge By the 19th century, Ironbridge had had many well-known visitors including Benjamin Disraeli, but by the mid-20th century the village was in decline. In 1986 though, Ironbridge became part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site (which covers the wider Ironbridge Gorge area) and has become a tourist attraction. Most industries in Ironbridge are now tourist related; however, the Merrythought teddy bear company (established in 1931) was still manufacturing in Ironbridge until December 2006, when the factory was closed. An annual Coracle Regatta is held in August on the River Severn at Ironbridge, along with many other events throughout the year.
The Severn Valley is a rural area of mid-western England, through which the River Severn runs and the Severn Valley Railway steam heritage line operates, starting at its northernmost point in Bridgnorth Shropshire and running south for 25km (15 miles) to Bewdley Worcestershire and the Wyre Forest. The area is about 40km (25 miles) due west of Birmingham in the Midlands. There is also use of this term to apply to areas around the River Severn as far south as as Gloucester, and as far north as Ironbridge. To the north of Bridgnorth, the area around the river becomes much steeper and is known as Ironbridge Gorge. From Bewdley south to Gloucester, the riverside has a much larger flood plain and loses its distinctive "valley" hillsides. To the south of Gloucester, it becomes the Severn Estuary.
There are riverside footpaths throughout almost the entire length of the Severn Valley on both sides, including the Severn Way long distance footpath, making it a popular haunt for anglers and ramblers, often combining a leisurely walk with a return trip on the Severn Valley Railway. A number of traditional pubs cater for the tourist trade. At the centre of the area, between Highley and Alveley, is the Severn Valley Country Park, with level-access and wide flat footpaths for wheelchair users, plus conveniences and a small visitors' centre. During summer, it is sometimes possible to ford the river at almost any point along the Severn Valley, but due to the deep, fast-flowing and often non-visible river channels, it can be dangerous to do so without specific local knowledge.
At the Heart of England, Warwick has a wealth of specialist independent shops, restaurants, pubs and accommodation. There is also a vibrant cultural scene with three internationally renowned annual festivals ranging from the Spoken Word, Classical and Contemporary Music to a Folk Festival and the World Famous Victorian Evening, held in late November or early December. Warwick Chamber of Trade helps to promote the town for visitors, residents and businesses. The town is also famous for the impressive Warwick Castle, the construction of which began in 1068, which attracts huge numbers of tourists from around the world. The town centre is also known for its historic architecture, and contains a mixture of Tudor and 17th-century buildings.
Warwick Castle overlooking the River Avon, lies in the town of Warwick of the English county of Warwickshire. It is traditionally associated with the earldom of Warwick, one of the oldest in England. In the year 1264, the castle was seized by the forces of Simon de Montfort, who consequently imprisoned the current Earl, William Mauduit, and his countess at Kenilworth (who were supporters of the king and loyals to the barons) until a ransom was paid. After the death of William Mauduit, the title and castle were passed to William de Beauchamp. Following the death of William de Beauchamp, Warwick Castle subsequently passed through seven generations of the Beauchamp family, who over the next 180 years were responsible for the majority of the additions made to Warwick Castle.
After passing through the hands of 20 more Earls (and three more creations of the title), Warwick Castle has now become a member of the Treasure Houses of England, a heritage consortium founded in the early 1970s by ten of the foremost stately homes in England still in private ownership with the aim of marketing and promoting themselves as tourist venues. In 1978, Warwick Castle was sold to the Tussauds Group, a large visitor attraction business. The Tussauds Group have performed extensive restorations to the castle and grounds in addition to opening its gates to the public. After the death of the last direct-line Beauchamp, Anne, the title of Earl of Warwick, as well as the castle, passed to Richard Neville ("the Kingmaker"), who married the sister of the last Earl (Warwick was unusual in that the earldom could be inherited through the female line). Warwick Castle then passed from Neville to his son-in-law (and brother of Edward IV of England), George Plantagenet, and shortly before the Duke's death, to his son, Edward.
Gloucester is the county town of Gloucestershire. In 2003 the city proper had a population of 110,207. It is located on the eastern bank of the River Severn 114 miles west-north-west of London. It is sheltered by the Cotswolds to the east, while the Forest of Dean and the Malvernh Hills rise prominently to the west and north-west, respectively. Gloucester is a port, linked via the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal to the Severn Estuary, allowing larger ships to reach the docks than would be possible on the tidal reaches of the river itself.
Gloucester Cathedral Gloucester Cathedral, in the north of the city near the river, originates in the foundation of an abbey dedicated to Saint Peter in 681. It is the burial place of King Edward II of England, Walter de Lacy and was recently used in scenes for the Harry Potter films. Attached to the deanery is the Norman prior's chapel. In St Mary's Square outside the Abbey gate, Bishop Hooper suffered martyrdom under Queen Mary I in 1555. Attached to the deanery is the Norman prior's chapel. In St Mary's Square outside the Abbey gate, Bishop Hooper suffered martyrdom under Queen Mary I in 1555.
Churches There may be many churches now, but in the past there were also many dissenting chapels. Four of the churches that are of special interest are: St Mary de Lode, this has a Norman tower and chancel and a monument of Bishop Hooper. It was built on the site of an Ancient Roman temple which became the first Christian church to be in Britain St Mary de Crypt, is a cruciform structure of the 12th century. It has later additions, such as the beautiful and lofty tower The St Michael church was said to have been connected with the St Peter ancient abbey The St Nicholas church that was originally from the Norman erection possessed a tower and other objects since then In the neighbourhood where St Mary de Crypt is there are slight remains of Greyfriars and Blackfriars monasteries, and also of the city wall. Under the Fleece and Saracen's Head inns early vaulted cellars still remain.
Schools There are three endowed schools: The King's School, refounded by Henry VIII of England as part of the cathedral establishment; the school of St Mary de Crypt, founded by Dame Joan Cooke in the same reign (1539); and Sir Thomas Rich's Blue Coat Hospital for boys (1666). At the Crypt school the famous preacher George Whitefield (1714-1770) was educated, and he preached his first sermon in the church. Modern buildings Noteworthy modern buildings include the museum and school of art and science, the county gaol (on the site of a Saxon and Norman castle), the Shire Hall and the Whitefield memorial church. A park in the south of the city contains a spa, a chalybeate spring having been discovered in 1814. West of this, across the canal, are the remains (a gateway and some walls) of Llanthony Priory, a cell of the mother abbey in the vale of Ewyas, Monmouthshire, which in the reign of Edward IV became the secondary establishment. King's Square is at the heart of the city centre and occupies what was once a cattle market and bus station. Officially opened in 1972, it was the centrepiece of a radical redesign of the city, The Jellicoe Plan, which was first proposed in 1961. Many of the features of the redevelopment have since been dismantled; the brutalist concrete fountains in the middle of the square have gone and the overhead roadways which linked three multi storey car parks around the centre have been either closed or dismantled. The present main bus station received a Civic Trust Award in 1963 but is now tatty and unwelcoming. An indoor market opened in Eastgate Street in 1968, followed shortly afterwards by the Eastgate Shopping Centre.
