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Introduction

Introduction. Scope of Ice School. An Introduction to Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques Prusik out of a crevasse. Use two ice tools to do a climb out of a crevasse with a top-roped belay. Recommended Reading. Lower Eliot Glacier. Middle Eliot Glacier. Upper Eliot Glacier. Ice Axe.

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Introduction

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  1. Introduction prepared by Steve Dougherty

  2. Scope of Ice School • An Introduction to Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques • Prusik out of a crevasse. • Use two ice tools to do a climb out of a crevasse with a top-roped belay. prepared by Steve Dougherty

  3. Recommended Reading prepared by Steve Dougherty

  4. Lower Eliot Glacier prepared by Steve Dougherty

  5. Middle Eliot Glacier prepared by Steve Dougherty

  6. Upper Eliot Glacier prepared by Steve Dougherty

  7. Ice Axe prepared by Steve Dougherty

  8. Evolution of the Ice Axe prepared by Steve Dougherty

  9. Evolution of the Ice Axe prepared by Steve Dougherty

  10. Evolution of the Ice Axe prepared by Steve Dougherty

  11. Ice Axe Parts • Pick • Adze • Shaft • Spike prepared by Steve Dougherty

  12. Ice Axe Length prepared by Steve Dougherty

  13. How to Carry an Ice Axe prepared by Steve Dougherty

  14. Ice Axe Grasps a. Self-Arrest b. Self-Belay prepared by Steve Dougherty

  15. Self-Belay prepared by Steve Dougherty

  16. Crampons prepared by Steve Dougherty

  17. Evolution of Crampons prepared by Steve Dougherty

  18. Purchasing Crampons prepared by Steve Dougherty

  19. Crampon Maintenance • File Points … grinding can cause excessive heat. • No need for excessive sharpness • Correct any splay in points. prepared by Steve Dougherty

  20. When to Use Crampons • Do use crampons on frozen snow and ice. • Don’t use crampons in soft snow. • Crampon effectiveness is diminished when snow accumulates between points. prepared by Steve Dougherty

  21. Crampon Technique French Technique – Flat-Footing German Technique – Front-Pointing. prepared by Steve Dougherty

  22. Pied Marche prepared by Steve Dougherty

  23. Pied En Canard • Pied Marche • Pied En Canard • Pied A Plat prepared by Steve Dougherty

  24. Pied A Plat prepared by Steve Dougherty

  25. Pied Assis prepared by Steve Dougherty

  26. Pied Troisieme prepared by Steve Dougherty

  27. Very Low Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  28. Low Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  29. Moderate to High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  30. High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  31. Very High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  32. Ice Axe Technique prepared by Steve Dougherty

  33. Piolet Canne prepared by Steve Dougherty

  34. Piolet Manche prepared by Steve Dougherty

  35. Piolet Ramasse prepared by Steve Dougherty

  36. Piolet Ancre prepared by Steve Dougherty

  37. Piolet Panne prepared by Steve Dougherty

  38. Piolet Poignard prepared by Steve Dougherty

  39. Piolet Traction prepared by Steve Dougherty

  40. Piolet Rampe prepared by Steve Dougherty

  41. Piolet Rampe prepared by Steve Dougherty

  42. Low Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  43. Moderate Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  44. High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  45. Low Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  46. Moderate Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  47. Moderate Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  48. High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

  49. Very High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty

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