580 likes | 789 Views
Introduction. Scope of Ice School. An Introduction to Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques Prusik out of a crevasse. Use two ice tools to do a climb out of a crevasse with a top-roped belay. Recommended Reading. Lower Eliot Glacier. Middle Eliot Glacier. Upper Eliot Glacier. Ice Axe.
E N D
Introduction prepared by Steve Dougherty
Scope of Ice School • An Introduction to Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques • Prusik out of a crevasse. • Use two ice tools to do a climb out of a crevasse with a top-roped belay. prepared by Steve Dougherty
Recommended Reading prepared by Steve Dougherty
Lower Eliot Glacier prepared by Steve Dougherty
Middle Eliot Glacier prepared by Steve Dougherty
Upper Eliot Glacier prepared by Steve Dougherty
Ice Axe prepared by Steve Dougherty
Evolution of the Ice Axe prepared by Steve Dougherty
Evolution of the Ice Axe prepared by Steve Dougherty
Evolution of the Ice Axe prepared by Steve Dougherty
Ice Axe Parts • Pick • Adze • Shaft • Spike prepared by Steve Dougherty
Ice Axe Length prepared by Steve Dougherty
How to Carry an Ice Axe prepared by Steve Dougherty
Ice Axe Grasps a. Self-Arrest b. Self-Belay prepared by Steve Dougherty
Self-Belay prepared by Steve Dougherty
Crampons prepared by Steve Dougherty
Evolution of Crampons prepared by Steve Dougherty
Purchasing Crampons prepared by Steve Dougherty
Crampon Maintenance • File Points … grinding can cause excessive heat. • No need for excessive sharpness • Correct any splay in points. prepared by Steve Dougherty
When to Use Crampons • Do use crampons on frozen snow and ice. • Don’t use crampons in soft snow. • Crampon effectiveness is diminished when snow accumulates between points. prepared by Steve Dougherty
Crampon Technique French Technique – Flat-Footing German Technique – Front-Pointing. prepared by Steve Dougherty
Pied Marche prepared by Steve Dougherty
Pied En Canard • Pied Marche • Pied En Canard • Pied A Plat prepared by Steve Dougherty
Pied A Plat prepared by Steve Dougherty
Pied Assis prepared by Steve Dougherty
Pied Troisieme prepared by Steve Dougherty
Very Low Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
Low Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
Moderate to High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
Very High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
Ice Axe Technique prepared by Steve Dougherty
Piolet Canne prepared by Steve Dougherty
Piolet Manche prepared by Steve Dougherty
Piolet Ramasse prepared by Steve Dougherty
Piolet Ancre prepared by Steve Dougherty
Piolet Panne prepared by Steve Dougherty
Piolet Poignard prepared by Steve Dougherty
Piolet Traction prepared by Steve Dougherty
Piolet Rampe prepared by Steve Dougherty
Piolet Rampe prepared by Steve Dougherty
Low Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
Moderate Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
Low Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
Moderate Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
Moderate Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty
Very High Angle prepared by Steve Dougherty