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Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails. Module 28. Editor’s note . All artificial nail enhancements products are based on ingredients from the acrylic family Sub-branch called “methacrylate” Two-part liquid and powder enhancement systems “Acrylic” – general term for large group of ingredients.
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Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails Module 28
Editor’s note • All artificial nail enhancements products are based on ingredients from the acrylic family • Sub-branch called “methacrylate” • Two-part liquid and powder enhancement systems • “Acrylic” – general term for large group of ingredients
Liquid and powder artificial nail enhancements products based on the methacrylate subcategory • Two-part liquid and powder enhancement system referred to as acrylic (methacrylate) nails
Introduction • Acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements created by combining: • monomer liquid • polymer powder • Liquid and powder system
Monomer • “Mono” means “one” • “Mer” stands for “units” • Monomer is one unit called a “molecule”
Polymer • “Poly” means “many • “Mer” stands for “units” • Polymer means “many units” or “many molecules”
“liquid and Powder Nail Enhancements” • Applied three basic ways • Natural nail as protective overlay • Over nail tip • Sculpted to extend natural nail using a flexible form • Natural hair brush best to apply products • Sable is best
Brush immersed in monomer liquid • Natural hair bristles absorb and hold monomer like a reservoir • Tip of brush touched to surface of dry polymer powder
Monomer absorbs polymer – small bead is formed • Bead is carefully placed on the nail surface and molded into shape with brush • Liquid is usually made from ethyl methacrylate monomer • Can contain other monomers used as customizing additives
Polymer powder is also made ethyl methacrylate monomer • Polymer powder is made using a special chemical reaction called polymerization • Process • Trillions of monomers linked together to create long chains • Long chains create tiny beads of polymer used to create certain types of artificial nails
Special additives blended into both liquid and powder • Ensure complete set or cure • Maximum durability • Color stability • Shelf life • Liquid is picked up by brush and mixed with the powder • Bead forms on the end of brush and quickly hardens • To happen special additives called catalysts
Catalyst • Additive designed to speed up chemical reactions • Added to monomer liquid • Used to control the set or curing time • Monomer liquid and polymer powder combined the catalyst helps control the set-up or hardening time • Energizes and activates the initiators • Initiators start a chain reaction that leads to the creation of fantastically long polymer chains
Polymerization process begins the second the liquid in the brush picks up powder from the container and forms a bead • Dominos
Initiator • Added to polymer is called benzoyl peroxide (BPO) • Over the counter acne medicine • Different purpose in nail enhancements • BPO used to start chain reaction that leads to curing (hardening)
Some monomers require more BPO than others • Use polymer powder designed for use with monomer liquid • Using wrong powder can create enhancements that are not properly cured • Could increase risk of client developing skin sensitivity or irritation
Acrylic (methacrylate) Nail Enhancements using forms • Polymer powders • Many colors • Basic pink • White • Clear • Natural
Used alone • Customized colors – blended • Shades of pink • Match or enhance nail beds • Bold primaries • Pastels • Wide range of designs and patterns
Supplies for acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements • Acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements created by combining acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid with polymer powder • Acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid • Here’s a tip pp753 / 901
Mix ratio • Amount of monomer liquid and polymer powder used to create a bead • “Dry Bead” • Equal amounts of liquid and powder • “Wet Bead” • Twice as much liquid as powder • “Medium Bead” • 50% more liquid than powder • Ideal mix ratio
Typically ensures proper set and maximum durability of enhancements • Too much powder • Brittleness • discoloration • Too little powder • Weak • Risk developing skin irritation and sensitivity
Acrylic (methacrylate) polymer powder • Choose color depends on methods used
Nail dehydrator • Apply liberally to natural nail plate only • Avoid skin contact • Remove surface moisture and tiny amounts of oil • Both can block adhesion • Here’s a tip pp 753
Nail primer • Acid-based primers (methacrylic acid) • Corrosive to skin • Potentially dangerous to eyes • Not used much nowadays • “Acid free” and “nonacid” primer developed in wide use today • Caution box pp 754 • Read mfg directions • Refer to MSDS for safe handling recommendations and instructions
Acid-based primers • Relatively dry brush • Using a light dotting action • Carefully dab the brush tip to center of properly prepared nail • Primer will spread out and cover nail plate • Avoid product running into skin • Causing burns/injuries • Read mfg. suggested use and precautions
Non-acid and acid-free nail primers • Slightly damp brush • Ensure nail plate is completely covered • Avoid too much product • Running onto skin • Causing skin irritation/sensitivity • Treat 2 -3 nails before dipping back into container • Read mfg suggested application procedures and precautions
abrasives • Medium grit • 180 – 240 • Natural nail prep and shaping • Smoothing • Fine grit • 350 or higher • buffing • 3 way buffer • Create shine for no polish
Coarser grit • Lower grit • Avoid using • Can damaged fresh nail enhancement • Acrylics can take 24 – 48 hours till peak strength
Nail Forms • Placed under free edge • Used to extend nail enhancements beyond fingertip • Creates additional strength • Extra boxes on PP 902 - 903
Nail tips • Pre-formed extensions • Wide variety • Shapes • Styles • colors
Nail Adhesive • Cyanoacrylate monomers • Each types uses different customized additives to enhance • Set times • Strength • Other properties • Small size bottle • Short shelf life • 6 months after date of purchase • Depends on storage and usage
Obtain maximum shelf life • Close cap securely • Set upright • Store out of direct sunlight • Room temperature - 60º - 85º • Nail adhesive may harden in tube and need to be thrown away
Dappen dish • Poured into special holder • Monomer • Polymer • Small narrow openings – minimize evaporation • Do not use open-mouthed jars or containers with large openings • Must be covered with a tightly fitting lid when not in use
NEVER pour unused portion back into original container • contaminated • Avoid skin contact with monomer to avoid skin sensitivity or irritation • Wipe clean with acetone • Store in a dust free location
Nail Brush • Sable hair • Synthetic/less expensive brushes do not pick up monomer or do not release liquid properly • Avoid overly large brushes – • Hold excessive amount of liquid • Risk touching client’s skin with monomer • May increase risk of developing skin irritation or sensitivities
Safety eyewear • Protect eyes from flying objects • Accidental splashes
Dust masks and protective gloves • Dust masks • Worn over nose/mouth to prevent inhalation off excessive amounts of dust • Provide NO protection from vapors • Gloves
Acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements pre-service • Complete pre-service sanitation and disinfection procedure (ch. 25, pp672/817) • Wash implements • Rinse implements • Immerse implements • Wash hands with liquid soap • Rinse and dry implements • Set up standard manicuring table
Greet client and direct to wash hands with liquid soap and warm water • Perform client consultation
Application of acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements using forms • Pages 757 – 761 • FYI pp762 • Pages 912 - 915
acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements post-service • Make another appointment • Take-home product recommendation • Clean up around table • Clean brush • Store acrylic products • Discard used materials • Clean table - clean and disinfect implements and multiuse tools
acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements over nail tips or natural nails • Pages 763 – 766 • Caution box pp766 • Pages – 908 - 911
Maintenance and removal of acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements • Regular maintenance prevents nail enhancements from lifting or cracking • If lifting/breaking greater risk of infection and other problems • Full and proper rebalance must be performed every 2 – 3 weeks
rebalancing • Method for maintaining the beauty, durability, and longevity of artificial nail enhancements • Do not let clients go too long without proper rebalance - more repairs • Nail is thinned down –apex of nail removed – entire nail enhancement reduced in thickness • Procedure pages 768 – 769 / 916 - 918 • Caution box page 769 / 917
Crack repair • Addition of enhancement product to repair cracks • Similar procedure to rebalance • Procedures – page 770 / 919 - 920
removal • Perform as soon as possible after request is made • Procedure pp771 921 - 922 • Condition surrounding skin with nail oil/lotion