Color Theory

1. Color Theory What is color?

2. What is it? • Color is the visual perception of the reflection of light.

3. Law of Color • Only three colors, called primary “pure” colors Yellow, red and blue

4. Secondary Colors • Two primary colors mixed in varying proportions = Orange Green Violet

5. Color Wheel • 12 –hue color circle created from the three primary colors • Name of a color referred to as tone or hue, identified by its position on the color wheel. • Tone can be described as warm, cool or neutral.

6. Warm and Cool Colors • Colors can be classified as either warms or cool colors

7. Complementary Colors • Opposite one another on the color wheel. • When mixed equally they neutralized each other

8. Characteristics of Color • Color has three main characteristics • Hue- identified based on it’s position on the color wheel • Value/level degree of lightness or darkness of a color relative to itself and other colors • Intensity- the vividness, brightness or saturation within its own level

9. Identifying Existing Color Contributing color + Artificial Color = Final color result

10. Melanin • Two types of melanin in the cortex of the hair • Eumelamin-black pigment • Pheomelamin- red pigment

11. Gray Hair • Melanocytes slow down production • Strands lose color • Heredity • Different patterns of gray • Percentages of gray vary with individuals

12. Applications for Gray • 75-80% gray hair; adjust color formula to one level darker than desired level • 25-30% gray; apply a color one level lighter than the desired shade

13. Gray Hair • Pre-soften resistant hair or pre-lighten to increase porosity

14. Hair Color Chemistry • Types of hair color • Non-oxidative-non-reactive, direct dyes that only coat the surface of the hair shaft/ nothing to lighten and no chemical changes occur. Certified colors used in foods, drug and cosmetics last until shampooed out

15. Non-Oxidative Color • Semi-permanent • Last through several shampoos, dye molecules in solution capable of penetrating the cuticle layer, smaller in size, slightly alkaline.

16. Oxidative Hair Color • Demi-uses low volume peroxide developer, only add color to the hair, cannot lift hair color

17. Permanent Hair Colors • Combined with peroxide, chemical reaction occurs • Small molecules penetrate the hair, oxidize in the cortex and link to form a permanent colored molecule

18. Permanent Hair Colors • Also referred to as aniline derivative tints/ penetrate the cuticle and cortex, remain until they are removed by chemical means, hair grows out and is cut off. • Main ingredient is paraphenylenediamine 24 hour patch test must Be given before any permanent Hair color application To ensure the client is not Allergic to the product

19. Lighteners • Bleaching or de-colorizing, used when a lighter hair color is desired • Involves the oxidation of the natural melanin in the hair. • Hair goes through several stages of color changes as it is lightened

20. Types of Lighteners • On-the-scalp lighteners • Gentle can be applied directly on the scalp • Oil lighteners pH 9 • Cream lighteners pH 9 Off- the- scalp Powder bleach, alkaline salts and strong oxidizing agents. Stronger than oil or cream

21. Developers • Hydrogen peroxide (H²O²) most common oxidizing agent • Volume = amount of oxygen gas removed from solution. Also called developer

22. Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes • Not professionally used • Contain vegetable dyes • Metallic salts and or combination of the two • Henna • Interfere with other professional beauty services • Can be toxic to the client and the operator