Mastering Special Fabrics: Tips and Techniques for Plaids, Napped Fabrics, Knits, Leather, and Formal Fabrics

1. 2.00 Working with Special Fabrics Plaids, Stripes, Border Prints Napped Fabrics Formal fabrics Knits Leather & Vinyl

2. Plaids • Even plaids – are the same in both the vertical and horizontal directions. Use a “without nap” layout • Uneven plaids – use a “with nap” layout, so all pattern pieces are laid in the same direction Use the dominant line for the center front and center back Match plaid at side seams and sleeves.

3. Pin layers together key areas in both directions so the design matches perfectly and will not shift in cutting

4. Pattern Prep • Lap stitching lines on pattern pieces • Trace the design onto the pattern

5. Pattern Placement • Place the pattern pieces on the fabric so that the traced design matches the fabric.

7. Add interest • Eliminate some of the matching and add visual interest by cutting small details on the bias.

8. With stripes follow same instructions as for plaids

9. One way designs should be treated as plaids, use a “with nap” layout.

10. Border Prints use the crosswise grain. Match the design at the side seams.

11. Napped Fabrics • Pile fabric has ends or loops of yarn extending above the surface of the fabric. Terry cloth Corduroy Velvet Velour Suede & Synthetic suede • Nap lies in one direction. The texture affects the color of the fabric. • Cut all pattern pieces in the same direction or there will be a noticeable color difference.

12. Guidelines for Pile Fabrics • Choose a simple design • Follow the “with nap” layout • Mark with tailor’s tacks • Hand basting may be necessary to prevent slippage. • When pressing use a needle board or thick pile fabric to prevent flattening the pile. • Hold iron above the fabric and steam. Finger press to set the fabric. • Fleece cannot be pressed, the iron might leave an impression.

13. Formal Fabrics – silk, damask, satin • Reflect light differently, depending on the way you hold them. • Use a “with nap” layout. • May require a special needle. • When pressing seams, use steam and finger press. • Silk will water spot, use only a dry iron.

14. Knits • Use “with nap” layout, looped yarns reflect light differently when viewed in opposite directions. • Use ballpoint needles and pins. • Best suited for serger, allows fabric to stretch.

15. Leather & Vinyl • Require special tools Teflon Presser foot Leather needle – wedge-shaped points Rubber cement masking tape rotary cutter and mat Wax chalk for marking rubber mallet for “pressing” areas

16. Leather & Vinyl - prep • Patterns with multi seams will make better use of the skins • Drop-shoulder sleeves require less easing • Double check fit, alterations are difficult • Layout pattern with finished side up • Use masking tape to attach pattern to “fabric”. DO NOT USE PINS! • Use wax chalk for marking

17. Leather & Vinyl - construction • Lengthen stitch to 3 • Use wedge shaped needle • Hand tie seam ends • Interface as indicated on pattern, use interfacing specifically for leather • Use rubber mallet or clapper for flattening seams. • Lapped seams are suitable • Use rubber cement to “hem” garment • Most leather garments are lined • Use bound buttonholes & button backs to support buttons.

18. Portfolio Samples Special fabrics. • Matching Plaids • Examples of uneven plaids, stripes (even & uneven), one-way design, and picture of border print. • Pile or napped fabric; one example of right method, one of wrong method • Formal Fabrics: french seam with lace fabric, fabric swatches with picture, & information on working with silky textured, silk, satin, sheer fabrics summarized. • Samples of seams for knits with information about sewing knits.