Drone Lab Construction Drawings

1. Casper Electronics Version 2.1 Updated January 7th, 2009 Drone Lab Construction Drawings

2. Prepare! These diagrams will serve as a step-by-step document to aid in the assembly of your Drone Lab! To start off, you are going to be needing a number of materials and tools: - Soldering Iron A cheap radio shack unit will technically work, but a nicer temperature controllable iron will save time and frustration. - Solder Whatever type you prefer, small gauge solder helps avoid excessively large joints. - Wire Cutters The type with the flat cutting edge for nipping leads off close to the board. - Needle Nose Pliers - Flathead Screwdriver - Solder Wick Extremely helpful when removing shorts / de-soldering joints. - Multi-Meter Extremely helpful in debugging. Get one that beeps when it detects electrical continuity, and learn how to use all the functions!

3. Parts List – Totals Here’s the parts that are required to build a functional Drone Lab. They are all included in the kit. In the following pages you’ll see pictures of each component. If you purchased a kit, please make sure you have all of the components shown. There was great effort paid to making sure all of the kits went out complete, but if indeed a mistake was made contact us directly. Note, if you received an enclosure, you should have received a hardware bag that includes nylon standoffs.

4. Parts List – Individual Values Values of component numbers, helpful if you’re building off the board silkscreen.

5. Parts Kit Which component is which value.

6. Resistors It is highly recommended that you sort the bag of resistors into piles before proceeding to assembly. Each diagrams is a screenshot of the board with the component for that page highlighted. With the components sorted, assembly will be more efficient. The Resistor Color Code: For the kit resistors, ignore the 3rd Band.

7. 100Ω - 1

8. 470Ω - 1

9. 1kΩ - 5

10. 2.2kΩ - 8

11. 10kΩ - 14

12. 22kΩ - 6

13. 51kΩ - 2

14. 56kΩ - 1

15. 100kΩ - 18

16. 330kΩ - 4

17. 470kΩ - 1

18. 1MΩ - 4

19. 4.7MΩ - 2

20. Capacitors -Note: For those who purchased kits, the kit ships with 5 values of capacitor that look almost identical. Written on them is the capacitor code, but the kits were assembled in such a way that the quantity of each of these similar-looking capacitors is also an indicator. -Another Note: The radial capacitors (220, 100, 10, 2.2, and 1 uF) should be inserted so the longer lead goes through the square hole. THIS IS DIFFERENT FOR THE LEDs. 10uF 100uF 2.2uF 220uF 2200pF 1uF .1uF 1000pF 10pF 4700pF .022uF

21. 10pF - 2

22. 1000pF - 1

23. 2200pF - 2

24. 4700pF - 3

25. 0.022uF - 4

26. 0.1uF - 16

27. 1uF - 1

28. 2.2uF - 4

29. 10uF - 10

30. 100uF - 3

31. 220uF - 1

32. Transistors The transistors’ physical shape should match the silkscreen of the component from the top. Otherwise the transistor will not function properly. Note: The transistors should be installed before the switches.

33. 2N3904 - 7

34. 2N3906 - 8

35. Diodes The 1N4001 has the thickest leads, and the 4148 has tape on the ends.

36. Red LED - 6 NOTE: The longer lead of the LED should go in the CIRCLE hole. - This is different from the capacitors -

37. 8.2 V Zener - 1

38. 4148 - 1

39. 1N4001 - 1

40. Switches -Tip: Try and solder the support lugs for extra durability!

41. DPDT Slide Switches - 10

42. Potentiometers • Note: After the potentiometer has been inserted into the board, the legs can • be bent apart to ensure a strong hold of the board. This will keep torsion load from twisting the knob from loading the active electrical solder joints.

43. 10kΩ Pots - 4

44. 50kΩ Pots - 12

45. 1MΩ Pots - 9

46. Jacks + Power

47. 1/8” Mono Jack w/ Switch - 3

48. 5.5mm Switching DC Jack - 1

49. ¼” Mono Jacks - 2

50. PC Mount Battery Box - 1