中国服装发展史 the phylogeny of China ’ s costume

1. 中国服装发展史the phylogeny of China’s costume Zoe May 2006 灿烂落寞的古代文化

2. 原始服饰original costume • The original costume was recovered by the imagine that according to spicula and some other clothes-made tools came up of land.Before the invention of spin technology, zoic fur were mainly material.At that time there was no line and rope,so the zoic ligament maybe used to make clothes. Then and there people had worn headgear collapsible and wristlet which were made by crude rock teeth fishbone and shells in the sea. The reason why whey wore these things was not only for being beautiful but also the commemorate for victory. • 原始服饰 根据出土的骨针、骨锥等制衣工具想象复原的。在纺织技术尚未发明之前，动物的毛皮是人们服装的主要材料。当时还没有绳、线，可能用动物韧带来缝制衣服。当时已经有头饰、颈饰和腕饰等，材料有天然美石、兽齿鱼骨和海里的贝壳等，当时佩戴这些饰物，可能不仅是为了装饰，也许还包含着对渔猎胜利的纪念。

3. 商代的发式The hairstyle in Shang Dynasty • Plaits were made just some parts (The picture was the Jade Person excavated in anyang’s tomb, henan province. • In Shang Dynasty , men mostly had plaits. • 商代的发式 辫发局部（河南安阳股墟妇好墓出土的玉人）。商代男子发式，以梳辫发为主。

4. 商代发式骨笄Shang Dynasty’s hairstyle---gu ji • The picture was the primary things handed down from ancient times and now were collected in the museum in Shanghai. The li was used to fixup bob in Shang Dynasty. In addition, then girls with fifteen-year old were called adults, and they could married,they called ji. • 商代发式 商代骨笄（传世实物，原件现藏上海博物馆）。笄是我国在新时器时代就有的用来固定发髻。周代男女都用笄 从周代起，女子年满十五岁便算成人，可以 许嫁，谓之及笄。如果没有许嫁，到二十岁时也要举行笄礼，由一个妇人给及龄女子梳一个发髻，插上一支笄，礼后再取下。

5. 商周贵族服饰The noble finery in Shang Dynasty • The mainly color used in that days was warm color, especially yellow and red. But blue and green were exist. (the picture was recovered by the yuren’s costume came up out of land) • 商周贵族服饰 这个时期的织物颜色，以暖色为多，尤其以黄红为主，间有棕色和褐色，但并不等于不存在篮、绿等冷色。（根据出土玉人服饰复原绘制）

6. 东周男子服饰Men’s raiments in Dongzhou • Costume in Zhou Dynasty followed of that in Shang Dynasty.The style just as the picture shows.There was no button in this period, Belt was tied on the waist. • 东周男子服饰 周代服饰大致沿袭商代的服制，只是略有变化。如图所示的样式。这个时期的服装还没有扭扣，一般在腰间系带，有的在带上还挂有玉制的饰物。

7. 战国胡服The hufu in the period of seven countres coexistence. • There was obvious change in costume in this period, for example the hufu. Hufu is actually minority’s costume which came from northwest. The costume was much different from the zhongyuan area, it was usually short coat pantalettes and long shoes. The advantage of the costume was that it was easy to activity. The first king who used this costume was the king of zhaolingwu who was the earliest innovator in the phylogeny of China’s costume. • 战国胡服 战国时期的服饰有较明显的变化，比较重要的是胡服的流行。所谓胡服，实际上是西北地区少数民族的服装，它与中原地区宽衣博带式汉族服装有较大差异，一般为短衣、长裤和革靴，衣身瘦窄，便于活动。首先采用这种服装的赵武灵王，是中国服饰史上最早一位改革者。这种服装最初用于军中，后来传入民间，成为一种普遍的装束。左图为穿窄袖短衣的杂技艺人（战国铜人，传世实物，原件现在美国华府弗里尔美术馆）。中图为穿窄袖短衣胡服的奴仆（河北满城出土当户灯铜人）。右图为戴冠、穿齐膝窄袖胡服的男子（河南三门峡上村岭出土战国铜人）。

8. 楚国贵妇服饰The rich women’s costume in Chu period • primary one until now. • The clothe showed is came up out of land from Chu tomb in Hubei province and the clothe was the earliest • （湖北江陵马砖一号楚墓出土实物）。楚墓出土的战国中期服饰实物，有绢、罗、锦、纱、绦等各种衣着十余件，为目前所见的最早的实物。通常用两种颜色的彩条纹锦镶沿

9. Warrior’s costume in Zhan period战国武士服饰 • The picture showed was also a primary truth thing which came up out of land from Liaoning province. • 战国武士服饰 春秋时期的青铜盔帽(辽宁出土实物)。当时戴这种盔帽的武士，头都要裹头巾。

10. Men’s quju in Han Danysty汉代男子曲裾 • The Picture showed below was just a recoved one

11. 汉代长冠the long coronal in Han Dynasy • In Han Dynasty, functionary had to wear the long coronal. • 戴长冠、穿袍服的官员（湖南长沙马王堆汉墓出土着衣木俑）。长冠，汉高祖刘邦先前戴之，用竹皮编制，故称刘氏冠

12. Emperor’s costume in Han Dynasty汉代皇帝冕服 • The picture was recovered. The mianyu on the emperor’s costume was the important symbol to distinguish gentle and simple. • 本图根据文献记载及图案资料复原绘制，冕冠，是古代帝王臣僚参加祭祀典礼时所戴礼冠。冕冠的顶部，有一块前圆后方的长方形冕板，冕板前后垂有“冕旒”。冕旒依数量及质料的不同，是区分贵贱尊卑的重要标志。

13. 汉代将官铠甲General officer’s loricae in Han Dynasty • The Ch’in Dynasty was the dynasy that the data was the most widely , and the most detailed. All of that due to the discovery of the military forces tomb figure. Their loricae costume put up sterm grade system. • 秦代是我国历史上至今资料最全面、最准确、最详细的朝代，这有归功于秦始皇陵兵马俑的发现。他们的铠甲服饰装束表现出森严的等级制度。

14. Women’s quju costume in Ch’in Dynasty秦汉妇女曲裾 • The lap of the skirt was usually assumed bugle shape, so when they were walking the feet were hided. Another grait was that every collar should be showed outside so there were so many floors at the neckline. • 下摆一般呈喇叭状，行不露足。通常用交领，领口很低，以便露出里衣。如穿几件衣服，每层领子必露于外，最多的达三层以上，时称“三重衣”。

15. Enjoy • some • pictures • of • costume

19. the costume that bureaucracy wore in Tang Dynasty唐代官吏常服袍衫

20. 中晚唐回鹘女服

21. 隋唐胄甲 

22. 辽代北班服饰

24. The picture showed was the gold belt which was tied on the waist. Additionally the picture showed was the primary thing came up out of land. • 此图为金饰蹀腰带（辽宁辽墓出土实物）

25. 金代贵族服饰Noble costume in Gold Dynasty • People in Gold Dynasty liked to use birds and beast as their vignette, especially deer. Such decorative trait was reflected a lot to the costume. One of reason why the pattern of deer used a great deal was the beautiful figure of deer. The other one was that deer had the same pronunciation as “lu”, and in Chinese lu means propitious. • 金代的装饰图案喜用禽兽，尤喜用鹿。这种装饰特点，在衣冠服饰上也得到大量的反映，鹿的图案大量被采用，除其本身的外形较为优美，便于用作装饰外，还有一个原因，即鹿与汉字的“禄”同音，富有吉祥的含意。本图所绘的裙字图案，即饰有鹿纹。明清时期，鹿的图案虽然没有被收进官员补服，但在民间仍属常用，比较多见的是将它与“福”字和“寿”字配合在一起，名谓“福、禄、寿”。

26. Noble usual costume in Yuan Dynasty

27. The half sleeve gold costume in Yuan Dynasty元代织金锦半袖 Gold was used to make clothes in Yuan Dynasty, and the method was mainly used in the palace. The noble in Song Dynasty also use gold in mading clothes.. 元代织金锦袍与半袖 本图为织金锦半袖展示图。 元代服装大量用金，超过以往历代。织物加金， 早在秦代以前就已出现。至于汉族服饰上得到 运用，时间大约在东汉或东汉以后，而且主要 在宫廷中使用。

28. Han chu women’s costume in Yuan Dynasty元代汉族妇女服饰 • The picture showed was the primary thing came up out of land. • 元代汉族妇女服饰实物 图中展示的服饰大都从无锡市郊一座元墓中取出

30. Emperor’s usual costume in Ming Dynasty明代皇帝常服

31. 明代皇后大袖衣Empress’s costume in Ming Dynasty

32. 明代官吏麒麟袍Bureaucracy’s Kylin robe in Ming Dynasty

34. 明代服饰龙袍Costume in Ming Dynasty---The dragon robe

36. Men’s usual costume in Ming Dynasty

37. Ru skirt in Ming Dynasty • RU skirt was the primary costume in Tang Dynasty. The mostly color of ru skirt was white. • 襦裙穿戴展示图。上襦下裙的服装形式，是唐代妇女的主要服饰。裙子的颜色，初尚浅淡，虽有纹饰，但并不明显。裙子多为素白.

38. 清代皇帝朝服Emperor’s costume in Qing Dynasty • There were so many sorts of clothes among emperor’s costume. • Yellow was the mainly used in Emperor’s costume.Emperor would wear clothe with blue only when sacrifice. • 清代皇帝服饰有朝服、吉服、常服、行服等。朝服的颜色以黄色为主，以明黄为贵，只有在祭祀天时用蓝色。

39. 清代皇帝龙袍Emperor’s dragon robe in Qing Dynasty

40. 清代皇后凤袍Empress’s phoenix robe in Qing Dynasty • Empress’s costume in Qing Dynasty • Empress’s usual costume was similar with Man chu noble costume.The clothe showed had been embroidered eight phoenixes and several tree peonies. • 清代皇后服饰 皇后常服样式，与满族贵妇服饰基本相似.本图展示的服装纹样为凤穿牡丹。整件服装在鲜艳的蓝色缎地上，绣八只彩凤，彩凤中间，穿插数朵牡丹。牡丹的颜色处理得净穆而素雅，色彩变化惟妙，具有传统的山水画特点。与此相反，凤的颜色比较浓重，红绿对比度极为强烈，具有典型民族风格和时代特色。此图为皇后所穿的凤袍展示图。

41. 晚清云肩Amice at the afternoon of Qing dynasty • The amice in Qing Dynasy called yujian. Yujian came into being during the period of five-generation. And women in Ming Dynasy used it as ornament when wearing full dress. Cixi’s yujian were all made by the big and orbicular pearls. Sometimes one yujian included 3500 pieces of pearls. • 云肩为妇女披在肩上的装饰物。五代时已有。明代的妇女作为礼服上的装饰。清代妇女在婚礼服上也用。清末江南妇女梳低垂的发髻，恐怕衣服肩部被发髻油腻沾污，故多在肩部戴云肩.慈禧所用的云肩，有的是又大又圆的珍珠缉成的，一件云肩用3500颗珍珠穿织而成。本图为晚清云肩实物。

42. 清代八旗兵甲胄zhou

44. 晚清刺绣衬衣The inwrought underlinen • The court dress in Qing Dynasty was long clothing which there were five buttons . Qing dynasty women’s underlinen were the daily clothes for women. • 清代宫廷服饰  有五粒钮扣的长衣，清代女式衬衣是妇女的一般日常便服。本图为晚清凤凰牡丹金寿字纹刺绣衬衣

45. Women’s coat skirt in latter-day近代妇女袄裙 • The coat skirt became popular at the beginning of the people country. At the beginning the style was similar as the qizhuang of manchu. Before long cuff became smaller and smaller. At the end of 20s ,with the influenced of occident, the style of cheong-sam changed obviously. • 民国初年，在这一时期上衣下裙最为流行，二十年代，旗袍开始普及。其样式与清末旗装没有多少差别。但不久，袖口逐渐缩小，滚边也不如从前那样宽阔。至二十年代末，因受欧美服装的影响，旗袍的样式也有了明显的改变

46. Latter-day Cheong-sam近代旗袍 • Cheong-sam came from Qizhuang of man chu women’s costume. The central point of man chu cheong-sam was broad, flat, long to feet, and was made of silk. The clothes were made full of flowerage and there were broad chiffon at the side of the clothes. • 旗袍源于满族妇女服饰中的旗装。满族旗袍主要 特点为宽大、平直，衣长及足，材料多用绸缎，衣上绣满花纹，领、衣、襟、裾都滚有宽阔的花边。

47. Latter-day Cheong-sam近代旗袍 • From the end of the Qing Dynasty to 30s, there were different changes in different epoch on the sleeve and lap of cheong-sam.The sleeve changed from broad to narrow,from long to short;while lap changed from long to short and again from short to long which were all depended on the vicissitude. • 从清末民初到三十年代，旗袍在袖子及下摆部分，在不同时期有不同的变化：袖子从宽到窄，从长到短；下摆从长到短，再由短到长，完全随着时代的变迁而变迁。本图为彩绣曲襟低领旗袍，为二十年代末期的样式

48. That’s all! • thank u !