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Women’s Apparel Industry. History of the RTW Industry. Until 1870’s - All clothing custom made 1900’s – Sweatshops emerge (mostly in NYC) 1910 – Birth of women’s RTW industry (shirtwaist dresses) 1911 – Triangle Shirtwaist Fire (prompted the start of the ILGWU
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History of the RTW Industry • Until 1870’s - All clothing custom made • 1900’s – Sweatshops emerge (mostly in NYC) • 1910 – Birth of women’s RTW industry (shirtwaist dresses) • 1911 – Triangle Shirtwaist Fire (prompted the start of the ILGWU • 1920 – Most clothing mass produced (80% made in NYC by small companies) • 1970’s – 1980 – Growth of large fashion companies and off shore production • 1975 – ILGWU becomes UNITE
Specialization by Product • Women’s apparel producers have always been specialists, producing apparel for a particular lifestyle, size and price. Ex. Active sportswear manufacturers do not usually produce dresses. Designers usually do balance their diversifications with specialization (ex. Vera Wang)
Specialization by Product CATEGORIES OF RTW • Outerwear – coats, raincoats and jackets • Dresses • Sportswear – casual pants, shorts, tops, sweaters, etc. (largest category) • Activewear • Blouses • Suits • After Five • Bridal • Maternity • Innerwear – intimate apparel
Specialization by ProductSPECIALIZATION BY SIZE • Misses – even number sizes 0 to 20 • Juniors – odd number sizes 1 – 17 • Petites – 0P to 16P • Plus Sizes – 12W to 26W; 26 to 52 and XL to 5X
Specialization by ProductSPECIALIZATION BY PRICE Factors contributing to the Wholesale Price Point • Quality of Material • Quality of Workmanship • Amount and Type of Labor • Structure of the business • “Name” and promotion
Specialization by ProductSPECIALIZATION BY PRICE • Designer Signature – Most expensive; highest price point; name designers; Ralph Lauren (purple label) • Bridge –Bridges the prices between designer and better (secondary lines) DKNY, Ralph • Contemporary – Designers who are targeted towards a younger market; many of the CA labels; Betsey Johnson; Free People; (becoming a broad market); Juicy; Ed Hardy; • Better – Fashionable clothing at affordable prices; Ann Taylor; Nautica; Talbots; Banana Republic; Polo • Moderate – Nationally advertised makers; Levi; Guess; Gap; Chaps • Budget – Lowest price zone; brands in Kmart; Walmart; Old Navy
Industry Trends • Global sourcing – Opening factories in low wage countries • Off shore production • Manufacturers opening retail stores (ralph Lauren; Coach; Nike; Talbots • Increase emphasis on Quick Response • Importance of websites, Internet and Social Networking • Licensing