textile collection samples 6-10

1. textile collection samples 6-10 calico duck lawn oxford cloth voile

2. sample 1 calico fiber content: cotton and blends; usually with polyester yarn: carded-only yarns fabric construction: balanced plain weave weights, uses: top weight; used for shirts, dresses, curtains, accessories (typical fabric for patchwork quilts, ragdolls) name: from the town of Calicut on the southwestern coast of India—this was Vasco da Gama’s first Indian port of call, 1498

3. sample 2 duck fiber content: usually made of cotton or blends, except for sails (original use) where MF fibers, notably special UV resistant nylon are used yarn: carded-only yarns fabric construction: close plain weave; fairly well balanced for greatest strength, but also may be ribbed weights, uses: usually bottom weight or heavier; used for sportswear, workwear, slipcovers, drapes, artwork ground, awnings, deck chairs, tents and other protective coverings, sails name: possibly from the Dutch doek, meaning linen canvas

4. sample 3 lawn usually made of cotton or blends, but fine lawn is still made of flax; best quality in cotton is long staple yarn: fine yarns, best-quality cotton will be combed, may be mercerized fabric construction: usually balanced plain weave; finish is usually soft, may be more crisp or may have a slight luster weights, uses: top weight, may be sheer; used for blouses, shirts, dresses, underwear, nightwear, handkerchiefs name: another French linen center, Laon, gives its name to lawn

5. sample 4 oxford cloth fiber content: often still 100% cotton, may be a blend with polyester or rayon yarn: fabric construction: usually 2 x 1 basket plain weave; warp is two finer yarns carried as one, weft is a single yarn, thicker than the warp with a softer twist; if warp yarns are dyed and weft yarns left undyed, the fabric is called oxford chambray weights, uses: top weight; important shirting fabric; also used for dresses, sportswear and pajamas name: recorded as being either (1) one of a group of shirting fabrics made by a Scottish firm and given names of famous universities, or (2) simply popular with students at Oxford University

6. sample 5 voile fiber content: cotton and blends; the best quality is long staple; there is also a wool voile, which is very similar to nun’s veiling yarn: cotton type uses fine, high-twist, combed yarn for smoothness in good-quality voile; the high-twist yarn gives firmness; the very best quality will be 2-ply twist-on-twist yarn, plied in the same direction as the singles; wool voiles also made of high-twist yarns fabric construction: balanced, open plain weave for sheer fabric; lower quality cotton voile may have a stiffening (sizing) added in finishing; best quality cotton voile is gassed so that the gas flame burns off any protruding fiber ends weights, uses: light, sheer fabric, used for lingerie, nightwear, blouses, shirts, dresses, curtains name: French voile, meaning veil; nun’s veiling is used for religious clothing