ABC Guidelines Issue 6 How to Self Audit & Changes from Issue 4 to 6

1. ABC Guidelines Issue 6 How to Self Audit & Changes from Issue 4 to 6 ABC Seminar at Plas Y BreninFriday 29th September 2017

2. Who’ve we got? Quick show of hands…. • How many Approved… • How many Aspirant… • How many Advised… • How many Associate… • How many Non – Members? Approved (Full Membership) – Aspirant (Working towards Full Membership) Advised (Unable to commit to full membership requirements) – Associate (Trade)

3. New / Updated Documents • ABC Guidelines V6 • Changes to Document from V4-V6 • ABC Self Audit V2 & Application • Sample Conditions of Use V2 • Risk Assessment Template

4. Why The Update? • ABC Guidelines V4 was created in 2010 • Our industry has moved on and developed, so the ABC Guidelines needed to develop too; Autobelays, Clip n’Climbs etc. • ABC Members require different things from what the Guidelines originally offered • ABC Guidelines are now being used to help establish Industry Standard, by providing guidance and background information for accident investigations • Create uniformity across the industry

5. Guidelines History V6 has been created and had input from The Castle, The Foundry, The Boardroom, The Works, Climbing Centre Group, Man Com & Legal advise from A.I.M and Town & Country.

6. Why were the Guidelines created? The Guidelines aim to establish appropriate operating practices (Industry Standards) required to safeguard the health and safety of users of artificial climbing structures. Compliance with this guidance will help operators to comply with Health and Safety Law but ultimate responsibility remains with the operator. The guidance is generic and operators should always undertake their own risk management procedures that should include appropriate risk assessments and site-specific control measures.

7. What does that mean? Fundamentally… • We all want to run and operate safe, inclusive and profitable walls • These Guidelines are here to assist wall owners, managers and employees in creating a safe environment • Not just for their customers but their staff members, contractors and external personnel too • Help the industry grow and development and get more people climbing

8. New Structure • Part 1 – Design, construction and maintenance. Physical infrastructure and management of risk through good design. In a sense this is the heart of what we offer- most (but not all) our members are based around one or more structures and this is the starting point of most business projects. • Part 2 – Access and Use of facilities. Whether our members are for-profit private companies or non-profit trusts, the point of having a climbing facility is for people to use it. This section outlines best practice for public use of the facility. • Part 3 – Health and Safety. Covering points that are complementary to parts 1 and 2, this section covers operating procedures and general health and safety management. • Appendix – General business requirements. There are a number of other general business requirements that don’t necessarily fall into ‘health and safety’ and yet are essential for the good management of a climbing facility. Data protection, employing people, etc. • Associated documents. The ABC will provide examples of documents that meet ABC requirements to encourage consistency amongst member walls and to provide a real benefit to members.

9. Key Changes • New technology/softwarethat allows for paperless registration and incorporation of videos into the induction process. • The growth of youth programmes(eg NICAS/NIBAS and youth competitions). This has led to a greater demand for specialist coaching/instruction. There is a general increased risk due to more volume of young people. We now have more competent, experienced young people that want to use our centres more frequently and independently. For example, it’s no longer exceptional to see competent 12 year old lead climbers with more belaying experience than many competent adults. • New activities/offeringssuch as autobelays, fun climbs (eg clip n’ climb), high ropes courses, parcour, specialist training (eg TRX, pegboards), DWS/psicobloc. These, and the inevitable pace of progress, have pushed us to define our underlying principles so that they apply to a variety of situations.

10. Sending a Clearer Message The five year revision is also an opportunity for the ABC to update the guidelines so that they become: • Clearer • More consistent • Easier to use We are a stronger organisation and feel that we can send a stronger message about best practice.

11. What else is new? • Clarification that users must be made aware of risks in a context-appropriate way with simpler terminology. • All climbing walls must have suitable impact flooring under both bouldering and roped walls. Rubber crumb under roped climbing is now recognised as best practice. There may still be legacy walls or smaller facilities where this is not the case- a risk assessment will determine appropriate control measures. • Consistency in competency requirements for unsupervised climbers and boulderers and clarification of the required elements of the registration process. • Stronger wording around the novice supervision policy- in particular being clear about what adequate supervision is.

12. What else is new? • Reviewing industry standards for allowing under 18s to climb unsupervised and outlining what is required in terms of parental consent and competency assessment. • Highlighting that the previous qualification requirements (MIA/MIC) for the Technical Advisor (TA) role are best suited for advising on climbing instruction and supervision, but are not sufficient to meet wider management requirements. • A much more detailed helmet policy to give operators greater guidance on what factors to consider when determining their own policy plus addition of helmet waiver.

13. What else is new? • Changed the way we talk about group supervision, rather than focus on a group supervision form, looking at a ’booking process’ and ‘group register’. Operators should consider: • is the user presented with relevant information about their participation and where can the operator get information they need (eg risk consent, parental consent, medical info)? • is there confirmation of the identity of the user and a clear line of responsibility with the designated leader established? • Added a section about facilitated climbing sessions – social clubs, coaching workshops etc. • Added more general information that may be relevant to new businesses – employment conditions, sustainability etc. • Added a recommended maximum working ratio of 9:1. • The mention of the Route and Boulder Setting Guidelines.

14. The ABC Risk Statement The ABC Participation Statement states: All climbing activities have a risk of serious injury or death*. Participants must recognise that even if they follow all good practice there may still be the risk of accident and injury. It is the responsibility of the participant to adhere to the conditions of use. *The ABC recognises that operators may wish to mention to participants the potential risk of death when participating in climbing activities. This is optional and should be decided by the operator, based off the findings of their risk assessment. Serious injury – Government Definition: An injury for which a person is detained in hospital as an “in-patient”, or many of the following injuries whether or not they are detained in hospital: fractures, concussion, internal injuries, crushings, burns (excluding friction burns), severe cuts, severe general shock requiring medical treatment and injuries causing death 30 or more days after the accident.

15. Where does that leave the BMC Participation Statement? The BMC participation statement states: The British Mountaineering Council recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions. This ABC Participation statement highlights the risk element of climbing, but also the main control measure that the participant must adhere to the rules. The ABC recognises that members may wish to continue to use the BMC Participation Statement because of the range of climbing activities (outdoor activities) they offer or because of historical reasons.

16. Any Questions?

17. Shameless Marketing Bit… If you’re not yet an ABC Member and are interested in finding out what the ABC can do for your facility, visit us at… http://www.abcwalls.co.uk/