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sin(kx) or sin( s t)

sin(kx) or sin( s t). sin(kx- s t). x. Beating of two long waves (shallow water waves). Beating of two short waves (deep water waves). A Packet of Short Waves. Blue n=250 Green n=50 Red n=5. A Stone thrown on the water-- a impulsive disturbance. 50 m. 250 m. 500 m.

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sin(kx) or sin( s t)

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  1. sin(kx) or sin(st)

  2. sin(kx-st) x

  3. Beating of two long waves (shallow water waves) Beating of two short waves (deep water waves)

  4. A Packet of Short Waves

  5. Blue n=250 Green n=50 Red n=5

  6. A Stone thrown on the water-- a impulsive disturbance

  7. 50 m 250 m 500 m

  8. Standing Tidal Wave Sea-Level Head Distance Mouth

  9. Progressive Wave

  10. Circular Ellipse Never a slack tide!

  11. Elongated Ellipse

  12. Rectilinear

  13. M2 Tidal Ellipse’s off New Jersey

  14. K1 Tidal Ellipse’s off New Jersey

  15. Vertical Structure of M2 Tidal current

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