Cosmetics Lecture 9

1. Cosmetics Lecture 9

2. Antiprespirants and Deodorants

3. Overview The causes of underarm malodor Antiperspirants Deodorants Comparison between antiperspirants and deodorants Disorders of sweat glands

4. Overview An average person has about 3-4 million sweat glands in the body that are responsible for secreting perspiration. • These can be classified into two types:Eccrine glands and Apocrine glands. • Eccrine Glands — These glands are the source for most perspiration. • They secrete salts and water that reach the skin through coiled ducts or tubes when the nervous system senses the body heat. • These glands are responsible for controlling the body temperature. • The sweat produced by these glands is high in salt content

5. Apocrine Glands — These glands secrete sweat through the hair follicles and are present in large numbers in armpits. • The sweat secreted by these glands contains organic substance (fatty substance). • The fatty substances provide a growth medium for bacteria living on the skin. These bacteria interact with lipids, converting them into compounds that have a characteristic sweat odour. • Isovalericacid, for example is one chemical compound that gives sweat its smell. • Thus, it can be assumed that the apocrine glands are more responsible for the armpit body odour

6. Sweat glands

7. Difference between eccrine and apocrine sweat glands

8. Causes of armpit Odour • Sweating is the main cause for body odour as it contains organic substances and the bacteria present on the skin surface start breaking these down into acids. • Overactive bacteria present in the underarms causes the odour. • Poor hygienic habits result in foul smelling armpits. • Stressand anxiety, at times, result in underarm odour since the body sweats profusely in case of stress. • Diseases like kidney or liver illness and diabetes are also among armpit odour causes. • Liver patients smell like ammonia in case of armpit odour while diabetics smell similar to a nail polish.

9. Perspiration is a physiological function assisting in the regulation of body temperature Perspiration results in: A) Wetness (Hidrosis),(it is due to eccrine glands) B) Body odour ( it is due to apocrine glands) Wetness and body malodour are normal but not accepted socially and culturally Personal hygiene and the use of antiperspirants and deodorants must be considered

10. Antiperspirants • Definition • Mechanism of action • History • Formulation • Quality control • Regulatory status • Labeling of antiperspirants • Safety

11. Antiperspirantsمضادات التعرق Definition “A drug product applied topically that reduces the production of perspiration (sweat) at that site”

12. Mechanism of action of Antiperspirants • the mechanism of action is physical rather than pharmacological. • how does an antiperspirant work? • When an antiperspirant is applied to the skin surface, its active ingredients – usually aluminium salts – dissolve in the sweat or moisture on the skin surface of the armpit. • The dissolved substance forms a gel, which creates a small temporary ‘plug’ near the top of the sweat gland, significantly reducing the amount of sweat that is secreted to the skin surface. • Bathing and washing will remove the antiperspirant gel. Re-application of antiperspirants can be beneficial to help reduce sweating and keep fresh throughout the day.  •  Antiperspirants reduce underarm sweating but they do not impact on the natural ability of the body to control its temperature (thermoregulation).

14. History • Early antiperspirants were pastes that were applied to the underarm area; • The first such product to be trademarked in the United States was Mum in 1888. It was a waxy cream that was difficult to apply. • A few years later, Everdry, the first antiperspirant to use aluminum chloride was developed. • Within 15 years, a variety of products were marketed in a number of different forms including creams, roll-ons, and powders.

15. In the early 1960s, Gillette introduced Right Guard, the first aerosol antiperspirant. Aerosols became a popular way to dispense antiperspirants because they allowed the user to apply without having to touch the underarm area. As the popularity of aerosols decreased, antiperspirants in stick form became increasingly popular. Today, sticks are the most popular antiperspirant form.

16. Formulation of antiperspirant sticks Antiperspirant sticks consist of • The active drug ingredients that control perspiration; • Gelling agents that form the stick matrix; and • Other ingredients, such as fragrance or colorants, that make the product aesthetically pleasing.

17. Active ingredients • The FDA publishes an Over the Counter (OTC) Drug monograph that lists which ingredients are approved for use. • The ingredients on this list are limited to: - natural antimicrobial agents: aluminum chlorhydrate, aluminum dichlorhydrate - aluminum chloride (must be non aerosol) and - aluminum zirconium complexes. • of these compounds, the most commonly used is aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrexglycine. • Most of these materials are supplied as powders, and they are typically used at levels of 8-25% based on the weight of the finished product.

18. Alcohol • Alcohol is an ingredient present in some roll-ons, aerosols and gels. • The active ingredients of antiperspirants and deodorants are often dissolved in alcohol because it dries quickly once applied to the skin and gives an immediate sense of coolness.

19. Gelling agents • The bulk of the formulation consists of waxy or fatty materials that are gelled to form a solid stick. • Common examples include - stearyl alcohol - cetyl alcohol - hydrogenated castor oil, and - glycerylstearate. • These waxy materials are blended with lubricating oils and emollients such as cyclomethicone, • In addition, talc, starches, or other powders may be added to control stick consistency and to give the product a dry feel.

20. Other ingredients • Fragrance and colorants may be added to the formula to improve its odour or appearance. • Some additives as calcium pantothenate may be added, Calcium pantothenatein antiperspirants is claimed to soothe irritated skin and to promote wound healing, which often occurs with underarm shaving.

21. Quality Control • Safety testing • Efficacy testing

22. Regulatory Status The regulatory status of antiperspirants is somewhat different in various regions of the world market place. United States • In the United States an antiperspirant is categorized as an over-the-counter (OTC) drug productand therefore subject to regulations by the FDA. European Union • In the European Common Market antiperspirants are considered to be cosmetic products and are therefore subject to the European Cosmetics Directive.

23. Labeling of Antiperspirants • For products that demonstrate the minimum standard of 20% sweat reduction over a 24-hour period the label may state either • “all day protection,” • “lasts all day,” • “lasts 24 hours,” or

24. For products that demonstrate extra effectiveness of 30% sweat reduction the label may state “extra effective.” • “24-hour extra effective protection,” • “all day extra effective protection,” • “extra effective protection lasts 24 hours,”

25. The product label must also contain the following items listed under “Warnings:” • “Do not use on broken skin.” • “Stop use if rash or irritation occurs.” • “Ask a doctor before use if you have kidney disease.” • If the product is aerosolized:“When using this product keep away from face and mouth to avoid breathing it.” • The label must also contain the following under the heading of “Directions” “Apply to underarms only”

26. Safety of Aluminium • A small percentage of people are allergic to aluminium and may experience contact dermatitis when exposed to aluminium containing antiperspirants. • The use of aluminium-containing antiperspirants has been linked with the systemic accumulation of aluminium which increases the risk of Alzheimer’s disease

27. Clothing • Aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrexglycine, a common antiperspirant, is a cause of "armpit stains" on clothing, reacting with sweat to create yellow stains.

28. Deodorants • Definition • Function • Formulation • Regulation of deodorants • Product forms

29. Deodorants Definition Deodorants are substances applied to the body to eliminate body odour caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration.

30. Function of Deodorants Deodorants provide only malodour control. They either • Mask body odour with perfumes, or • Absorb perspiration or • Inhibit the activity of gram + ve bacteria, which cause body malodour. Perfumes that combine antimicrobial properties with masking effects have an obvious advantage but most essential oils that perform such a dual function have too strong an odour themselves.

31. Formulation of deodorants • Deodorants can be formulated with antimicrobials such as triclosan, that slow bacterial growth. • Deodorants may contain perfumefragrancesor natural essential oils intended to mask the odour of perspiration.

32. Why choose a deodorant over an antiperspirant? • Deodorants work by neutralizing the smell of the sweat and by antiseptic action against bacteria. • Deodorants are preferable because they don’t interfere with sweating, a natural cooling process.

33. Note • Antiperspirants, because of their ability to reduce perspiration and thus diminish the medium that is a factor in the development of axillaryodour, can also claim to be a deodorant. • However, because a deodorant product only reduces the body odour and does not reduce perspiration it can only be labeled as a deodorant.

34. Regulation of deodorants • Deodorants are classified and regulated as cosmetics in Europe and by the (FDA). N.B. • In Europe both antiperspirants and deodorants are considered cosmetics.

35. Comparison between antiperspirants and deodorants • Antiperspirants, prevent odour and reduce sweat produced by parts of the body. • Deodorants are substances applied to the body to eliminate body odour caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration. • Antiperspirants are typically applied to the underarm, while deodorants may also be used on feet and other areas in the form of body sprays. • Antiperspirants are classified as drugs by the FDA. Deodorants are classified and regulated as cosmetics by the FDA.

36. Product forms of deodorants and antiperspirants • Aerosol sprays • Roll-ons • Gels • Sticks • Creams

37. Disorders of sweat glands • Hyperhidrosis • Anhidrosis • Prickly heat

38. Hyperhidrosis Hyperhidrosis is defined as excessive sweating. • It is caused by an over-activity of the sweat producing glands. • The profusion of sweat may be in the axillae, the palms, the feet, the face, on the trunk, or a combination of any or all of the above body parts. • The excessive sweat is beyond the person’s physiological requirement to regulate the body’s temperature.

39. Hyperhidrosis can have severe physiological consequences such as • Cold hands, • Dehydration, and • Skin infections secondary to maceration of the skin. • Hyperhidrosis can also have devastating emotional effects on one’s individual life.

40. Axillaryhyperhidrosis • Axillaryhyperhidros is is the medical term for excessive armpit sweat.

41. Medical approaches to hyperhidrosis • All the currently marketed OTC antiperspirant products are labeled to be used only in the axilla and are not approved for any other body location. • For a person with axillaryhyperhidrosis, the first line of treatment would be to try an extra-strength antiperspirant

42. There are prescription drug solutions available for those who seek medical treatment for their condition. • These prescription products usually contain aluminum chloride concentrations greater than those which have been established as safe and effective in the final OTC antiperspirant monograph. • These higher concentration products are usually recommended to be used at bedtime to allow for maximum absorption at a time when sweating may be at a minimum for the day.

43. Iontophoresis: a device which passesdirect electricity through the skin usingtap water • Oral medications: from the group of medications known as anticholinergics, which reduce sweating • Botox : approved in the U.S. by the FDA for treating excessive axillarysweating