Fall Lawn Establishment and Renovation

1. Fall Lawn Establishment and Renovation Ward Upham Kansas State University

2. Topic Outline • Goals: New establishment vs. renovation • Choosing a grass • Preparing the soil • Methods of establishment • Steps at the time of establishment • Steps following establishment

3. Goals • Establishment: Starting over • Renovation: Thickening up an existing lawn

4. Choosing a Grass • Only Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue are established during late summer – early fall

5. Kansas is in the Transition Zone • Both warm- and cool-season turfgrasses grow here but the climate is ideal for neither.

6. Cool-Season Turfgrasses • Grow best during spring and fall

7. Let’s Take a Closer Look • Tall Fescue • Kentucky Bluegrass

8. Tall Fescue

9. Tall Fescue • Has mini-rhizomes but basically bunch grass • In other words, it doesn’t spread

10. Tall Fescue • Best adapted cool-season grass in Kansas • Propagated by seed and sometimes by sod • Coarser leaves than Kentucky bluegrass but not bad • Avoid K-31; coarser, less dense, lighter color and seed tends to be contaminated with orchard grass

11. Tall Fescue Best Choice for the Shade

12. Tall Fescue Major Problem: Brown Patch

13. Kentucky Bluegrass

14. Kentucky Bluegrass • Spreads by rhizomes

15. Kentucky Bluegrass • Fine-bladed, makes an attractive lawn • Propagated by seed or sod • Greater sod strength than tall fescue (rhizomes) • Poor heat and drought tolerance • Has trouble surviving our summers without damage • Better adapted further north

16. Kentucky Bluegrass Numerous Problems: Summer Patch Can Be Severe

17. Site Preparation Making the Job Easier from the Outset

18. Steps in Site Preparation • Soil test (mainly for phosphorus, potassium, pH) • Preplant weed control • Surface preparation/cultivation

19. Soil Testing Knowing what to do before you do it • How to: • take small samples from upper 6-8" of soil at no fewer than 5 places in the lawn (more if lawn conditions vary) • Mix samples and bring a pint into county office (be sure to fill out form as accurately as possible and indicate what tests you want) • McPherson County Extension Service has two soil probes that can be borrowed to take samples

20. Soil Testing Knowing what to do before you do it • How to:

21. Soil Testing Knowing what to do before you do it • Information obtained: • Package #1: soil pH, phosphorus and potassium levels • Package #2: the above plus nitrates and organic matter content

22. Preplant Weed Control • Renovation: Kill broadleaf weeds. Broadleaves are anything but grasses • Establishment: Kill everything and start over. • No weed preventers!!

23. Renovation: Killing Broadleaf Weeds Tips and Strategies • Don’t apply broadleaf weed killers inside of one month before seeding • Spot spraying with Roundup will assist with perennial weed control (e.g. dandelion, clover) • Follow up after the new grass is up with regular broadleaf herbicides if needed • After the lawn has been mowed several times • In early spring, once turf has come up

24. Tools of the Trade • Rototiller

25. Tools of the Trade • Verticut (not a power rake)

26. Tools of the Trade • Slit Seeder

27. Tools of the Trade • Core Aerator

28. Methods of Establishment More than one way to handle the same job

29. Establishment • Seeding • Commonly used for tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass • Sodding • Commonly used for Kentucky bluegrass • Tall fescue is sodded more now

30. Steps at Establishment What you already should have completed • Soil test - soil amendment • Determined area of lawn to be renovated or newly established • Surface preparation (new establishment) • Aerification/dethatching (if necessary) • Water area deeply and allow time for surface to dry enough to not be sticky

31. Lawn Area Determination Area to be Seeded

32. Lawn Area Determination Break into Smaller Shapes

33. Seeding Cool-season Grasses • Normally done in late August - September • Soil is warm so faster germination and establishment • Less weed problems than if planting in spring

34. Surface Preparation New Lawn • Rototill area to be seeded to loosen the ground, make grade changes and smooth out bumps • Don’t overtill - too much will disrupt soil structure • Remove plant debris, rocks, etc. • Incorporate P,K, lime, or sulfur at this time to help condition soil for plant growth • Smooth surface, grade as needed, pack it down (good seed/soil contact), and moisten

35. Do I Have to Rototill? New Lawn • If the soil is not too compacted and you do not need to change grade nor add P, K, lime or sulfur, then you do not need to rototill • Scalp existing dead growth by setting mower as low as possible and bagging

36. Seeding Cool-season Grasses • Must have good seed-soil contact • Verticut: Broadcast seed after verticutting

37. Seeding Cool-season Grasses • Must have good seed-soil contact • Slit Seeder

38. Seeding Cool-season Grasses • Must have good seed-soil contact • Core aerator: Go over area at least 3 times in different directions • Good for slopes • Requires less water

39. Dormant Overseeding Seeding from mid-November to March • Can seed over light snow (about 1 inch) • Can seed if moist soil freezes and cracks • Seed falls into cracks and is covered when soil thaws • Seed will germinate in spring

40. Dormant Overseeding Seeding from mid-November to March • Use dithiopyr in spring to control crabgrass • Apply two weeks after grass comes up or April 1, whichever is later • Use Hi-Yield Turf & Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper

41. Sodding of Cool-Season Grasses • Best done in fall (just like for seeding) but can be done any time ground not frozen • Problems with laying sod in summer • Desiccation (drying out) • Disease • Heat stress • Water bill • Prepare soil just like you would for seeding on bare ground • Roots will peg down in 7 to 10 days under good conditions

42. Establishment/Renovation Preparation

43. Steps at Establishment • Apply fertilizer according to soil test or starter fertilizer according to directions on bag • Seed: Weigh seed for area, place in slit seeder or spreader, and apply in two directions (½ each time, uniform coverage) • Sod: Lay sod to area, packing squares tight to each other

44. Steps at Establishment Irrigation • Keep soil moist but not wet until turf sprouts • May mean watering up to 3 times per day during hot weather

45. Steps following establishment Irrigation • Once turf has come up, water more deeply and infrequently (2-3 times/week with no rain) • Water deeply at time of last mowing • Keeps soil moist during winter for roots

46. Proper Watering

47. Proper Watering

48. Steps following establishment Fertilization • Apply 1 lb. N per 1000ft2 in November (quick release) • Feed plants for winter and early spring • Apply 1 lb. N per 1000ft2 in early May (2/3:1/3 quick/slow release) • Don’t want to overstimulate growth before summer

49. Steps following establishment Mowing • Once new turf is 3-4" tall, mow at ~3" in fall • Can go lower if mostly bluegrass turf (2-3") • Keep the 1/3 rule in mind for healthy turf • Maintain at 2.5-3.5" during spring and raise height to the upper limit for summer • Make sure turf has been mowed 3 times before applying spring herbicides

50. Mowing: Basic Information • Don’t remove more than 1/3 of blade at one time