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2. PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES. For some tests, internationally recognized standards exist, such as the ISO series of tests; but there are also many important national or regional test standards, such as those of the European Union (EN) or the United States (AATCC, ASTM). In addition, many retailers around the world have their own standards and tests. .
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1. 1 TBITAK-BURSA TEST AND ANALYSIS LABORATORY Performance Testing of textiles
Prof. Dr. Seref GER
TBITAK-BUTAL
18.12.2003
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3. 3 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES
4. 4 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES
5. 5 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES - Tensile properties of fabrics:
Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method (ISO 13934-1)
Determination of maximum force using the grap method (ISO 13934-2)
The method is mainly applicable to woven textile fabrics.It can be applicable to fabrics produced by other techniques. It is not normally applicable to woven elastic fabrics, geo-textiles, non-wovens, coated fabrics, textile-glass woven fabrics and fabrics made from carbon fibres or polyolefin tape yarns.The method specifies the determination of the maximum force and elongation at maximum force of test specimens in equilibrium with the standard atmosphere for testing and of test specimens in the wet state.
The method is restricted to the use of constant rate of extension (CRE) testing machines.
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7. 7 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES - Tear properties of fabrics:
Elmendorf (ISO 13937-1)
Single tear method-trouser shaped (ISO 13937-2)
Single tear method-wing shaped (ISO 13937-3)
Double tear test (ISO 13937-4)
The test is mainly applicable to woven textile fabrics.It may be applicable to fabrics produced by other techniques, e.g. To nonwovens (with the same under-mentioned restrictions as for the woven fabrics).It general the test is not applicable to knitted fabrics and woven elastic fabrics.It is not suitable for highly anisotropic fabrics or loose fabrics where tear transfer from one direction to an other direction of the fabric during the tear test is likely to occur.
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9. 9 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES - Bursting properties of fabrics:
Hydraulic method for determination of bursting strength and bursting distension (ISO 13938-1)
The method is applicable to knitted, woven, nonwoven and laminated fabrics.It may be suitable for fabrics produced by other techniques.The test is suitable for test specimens in the conditioned or wet state. From the available data there appears to be no significant difference in the bursting strength results achieved using hydraulic burst tester, for pressures up to 800kPa.This pressure range covers the majority of performance levels expected of general apparel.For specialty textiles requiring high bursting pressures, the hydraulic apparatus is more suitable.
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11. 11 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES - Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling (ISO 12945-1, 2, ASTM D 3512):
At ISO 12945-2, a circular test specimen is passed over a friction surface comprising the same fabric or, when relevant, a wool abradant fabric, at a defined force in the form of a Lissajous figure, with the test specimen able to rotate easily around and axis through its centre, perpendicular to the plane of the test specimen.Fuzzing and pilling are assessed visually after defined stages of rub testing.
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13. 13 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES - Determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics by the Martindale method (ISO 12947-2):
This part of ISO 12947 is applicable to the determination of the inspection interval to breakdown of specimens covering all textile fabrics including nonwovens apart from fabrics where the specifier indicates the end performance as having a low abrasion wear life.
14. 14 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Determination of the permeability of fabrics to air
(ISO 9237):
This international standard describes a method for measuring the permeability of fabrics to air and is applicable to most types of fabrics, including industrial fabrics for technical purposes, nonwovens and made-up textile articles that are permeable to air.
The rate of flow of air passing perpendicularly through a given area of fabrics is measured at a given pressure difference accros the fabric test area over a given time period.
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16. 16 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test (ISO 105-B02):
A specimen of the textile to be tested is exposed to artificial light under prescribed conditions, along with a set of blue wool references. The colour fastness is assessed by comparing the change in colour of the test specimen with that of the references used.
For white (bleached or optically brightened) textiles, the colour fastness is assessed by comparing the change in whiteness of the specimens with that of the reference used.
17. 17 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to spotting:Alkali (ISO 105-E06):
Drops of a solution of sodium carbonate are placed on the specimen, the surface of which is rubbed gently with a glass rod to ensure penetration.The change in colour of the textile is assessed with the grey scale.
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19. 19 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to rubbing (ISO 105-X12):
Specimens of the textile are rubbed with a dry rubbing cloth and with a wet rubbing cloth.Two alternative sizes of rubbing finger are specified, one for pile fabrics and one for other textiles.This staining of the rubbing cloths is assessed with the grey scale.
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21. 21 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering (ISO 105-C06):
A specimen of the textile in contact with specified adjacent fabric or fabrics is laundered, rinsed and dried.Specimens are laundered under appropriate conditions of temperature, alkalinity, bleaching and abrasive action such that the resultis obtained in a conveniently short time.The abrasive action is accomplished by the use of a low liquor ratio and an appropriate number of steel balls.The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric or fabrics are assessed by comparison with the grey scales.
22. 22 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to perspiration (ISO 105-E04):
Specimen of the textile in contact with adjacent fabrics are treated in two different solutions containing histidine, drained and placed between two plates under a specified pressure in a test device.The specimens and the adjacent fabrics are dried separately.The change in colour of each specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed by comparison with the grey scales.
23. 23 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to water (ISO 105-E01):
A specimen of the textile in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics is immersed in water, drained and placed between two plates under a specified pressure in atest device.The specimen and the adjacent fabric(s) are dried.The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric(s) are assessed by comparison with the grey scales.
24. 24 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to dry cleaning (ISO 105-D01):
A specimen of the textile in contact with a cotton fabric bag together with non-corrodible steel discs is agitated in perchloroethylene, then squeezed or centrifuged, and dried in hot air.The change in colour of the specimen is assessed with the grey scale for assessing change in colour.At the conclusion of the test, the coloration of the solvent is assessed by comparing the filtered solvent with un-used solvent by transmitted light, by means of the grey scale for assessing staining.
25. 25 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to sea water (ISO 105-E02):
A specimen of the textile in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics is immersed in sodium chloride solution, drained and placed between two plates under a specified pressure in a test device.The specimen and the adjacent fabric(s) are dried.The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric(s) are assessed by comparison with the grey scales.
26. 26 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to chlorinated water (ISO 105-E03):
A specimen of the textile is treated with a weak chlorine solution of a given concentration and dried.The change in colour of the specimen is assessed by comparison with the grey scale.Three alternative test conditions are specified.
27. 27 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to bleaching:Hypochlorite (ISO 105-N01):
A specimen of the textile is agitated in a solution of sodium or lithium hypochlorite, rinsed in water, agitated in a hydrogen peroxide solution or sodium hydrogen sulfite solution, rinsed and dried.The change in colour is assessed with the grey scale.
28. 28 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to bleaching:Peroxide (ISO 105-N02):
A specimen of the textile in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics is immersed in the bleaching solution, rinsed and dried.The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric(s) are assessed with the grey scales.
29. 29 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Test for colour fastness:
Colour fastness to spotting:Acid (ISO 105-E05):
Drops of a solution of acid are placed on the specimen, the surface of which is rubbed gently with a glass rod to ensure penetration.The changes in colour of the textile, while it is still wet and after drying, are assessed with the grey scale.
30. 30 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Determination of resistance to surface wetting (spray test) of fabrics (EN 24920):
A specified volume of distilled or fully deionized water is sprayed on a test specimen which has been mounted on a ring and placed at an angle of 45 so that the centre of the specimen is at a specified distance below the spray nozzie.The spray rating is determined by comparing the appearance of the specimen with descriptive standards and photographs.
31. 31 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Determination of formaldehyde (ISO 14184-1):
Free and hydrolized formaldehyde (water extraction method)
Formaldehyde is extracted from a textile sample with water at 40C.The amount of formaldehyde is then determined colorimetrically.
32. 32 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Determination of formaldehyde (ISO 14184-2):
Released formaldehyde (vapour absorption method)
A weighed fabric specimen is suspended over water in a sealed jar.The jar is placed in an incubator at a controlled temperature for a specified length of time.The amount of formaldehyde absorbed by the water is then determined colorimetrically.
33. 33 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Determination of pH of aqueous extract (EN 1413):
Electrometric measurement of the pH value of the aqueous extract of textiles at room temperature by means of a glass electrode.
The method is applicable to textiles in any form.
34. 34 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Standard Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles (ASTM D 1230):
The standard provides methods of testing the flammability of textiles from or intended to be used for apparel, explains three classes of flammability, sets forth the requirements for classifying textiles, and warns against the use of single or multilayer textile fabrics that have burning characteristics considered by the trade to make them unsuitable for apparel.
35. 35 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Determination of resistance to water penetration Hydrostatic pressure test (EN 20811):
The hydrostatic head supported by a fabric is a measure of the opposition to the passage of water through the fabric.A specimen is subjected to a steadily increasing pressure of water on one face, under standard conditions, until penetration occurs in three places.The pressure at which the water penetrates the fabric at the third place is noted.The water pressure may be applied from below or from above the test specimen.The chosen alternative should be stated in the test report.The result is immediately relevant to the behaviour of fabric articles which are subjected to water pressure for short or moderate periods of time.
36. 36 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric specimens and garments in tests for determination of dimensional change (ISO 3759):
Test specimens are selected to represent the bulk of the textile under examination.Pairs of reference points are marked on each specimen and the distance between each pair of reference points is measured before and after specified treatments.
37. 37 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing (EN ISO 6330):
A specimen is washed in an automatic domestic washing machine and dried according to specified procedures.
38. 38 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying (EN 25077):
The specimen is conditioned in the specified standard atmosphere and measured before subjection to the appropriate washing and drying procedures.After drying, conditioning and remeasuring of the specimen, the changes in dimensions are calculated.
39. 39 PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES Burning behaviour-Measurement of flame spread properties of vertically oriented specimens (EN ISO 6941):
A defined ignition flame from a specified burner is applied for a defined period of time to textile specimens which are vertically oriented.The flame spread time is the time in seconds for a flame to travel between marker threads located at defined distances.Other properties relating to flame spread may also be observed, measured and recorded.