1 / 51

SAC Anchors II lecture Chris McGuinness 11/08/06

SAC Anchors II lecture Chris McGuinness 11/08/06. (Original slides by Clint Cummins, modified by Chris McGuinness). What we’ll cover. 0. Knots 1. Placing Gear 2. Constructing Gear Anchors 3. Multipitch Climbing Sequence 4. Multiple Rappels

jelani-freeman
Download Presentation

SAC Anchors II lecture Chris McGuinness 11/08/06

An Image/Link below is provided (as is) to download presentation Download Policy: Content on the Website is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use and may not be sold / licensed / shared on other websites without getting consent from its author. Content is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use only. Download presentation by click this link. While downloading, if for some reason you are not able to download a presentation, the publisher may have deleted the file from their server. During download, if you can't get a presentation, the file might be deleted by the publisher.

E N D

Presentation Transcript

  1. SAC Anchors II lectureChris McGuinness11/08/06 (Original slides by Clint Cummins, modified by Chris McGuinness)

  2. What we’ll cover • 0. Knots • 1. Placing Gear • 2. Constructing Gear Anchors • 3. Multipitch Climbing Sequence • 4. Multiple Rappels • 5. Where to go from here (transition from toprope/bolted to gear climbing)

  3. What we won’t cover • Actual climbing techniques (jamming, chimneying, etc.) • Leading

  4. 0. Knots • Overhand on a bight • figure-eight on a bight • water knot • Double fisherman • girth hitch • clove hitch • Munter hitch • prusik

  5. Double Fisherman

  6. Clove Hitch

  7. 1. Placing Gear • General concerns: • rock quality (hardness, fractures / thin flakes / loose pieces, sand/dirt/leaves/moss/grass) • surface area contact • direction of pull • ease of removal

  8. Gear types • Fixed: • Trees • Rocks (horns/boulders, tunnels) • Bolts + Pitons • Removable: • Nuts (Stoppers, Hexes) • Cams (Camalots, Friends, TCUs, Aliens) • Tri-Cams

  9. Trees • Preferably living • Ideally the size of your leg • Sling as low down as possible

  10. Horns, Flakes, Tunnels • Pay special attention to rock quality • Girth hitch feature securely, and be aware of the possibility of the sling getting pulled up by the rope

  11. Fixed Gear • Inspect gear before just clipping • Pitons get old, rusty and can break • Fixed nuts are often not as fixed as they appear • Generally a visual inspection, followed by a good tug while observing if the piece wiggles around is sufficient

  12. Bolts From ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association)

  13. Hex nut - surface area

  14. More Hexes

  15. Stopper - sizing + orientation

  16. Cam - placing or removing

  17. Camalots - selecting size Good - Strong + stable Not so good - unstable Bad

  18. Friends - selecting size good Not so good bad

  19. Friend sizing - smaller crack Too tight (hard to remove) good Not so good

  20. Clipping gear in anchor or lead • Orient biner so gate does not touch rock • Do not load biner over rock edge - use sling • Do not girth hitch sling directly to cable of nut or narrow bolt hanger - could be cut • Do not load solid shaft of Friend over edge • Avoid loading cable of TCU over rock edge - could be bent permanently

  21. Tri-Cams

  22. 2. Constructing gear anchors • SRENE = • Solid (invididual placements) • Redundant (independent) • Equalized • No Extension (if piece fails) • Add: • Efficient (simple, fast) • Stable (robust to movement / changes)

  23. Standard placement counts • 3 strong placements, at least one multidirectional for lead anchor • say 1/100 chance of random failure due to unobserved factors. If placements are independent, then: • 1/10,000 chance of failure for 2 placements • 1/1,000,000 chance of failure for 3 placements

  24. # of anchor pieces - exceptions • 2 “good” bolts: • good = 5/16” or larger, not rusty • suspect = surface/smooth rust or 1/4” • bad = corroded/pitted rust and 1/4” • 1-2 good trees (still use 2 slings/biners) • more than 3 pieces? Too complex, unless some are weak; violates Strong rule, but is sometimes unavoidable

  25. Joining pieces A: Clove hitch

  26. Joining pieces B: slings

  27. Joining pieces C: Cordelette

  28. Joining Pieces D: Equalette

  29. Joining placements in anchor • A. Clove hitches on climbing rope • +: strong, quick, no extra gear needed • -: questionable equalization, must retie if not swinging leads • B. Slings (with knots or clove hitches to adjust) • +: good for toproping, 1-2 points to clip on leads • -: reduces slings available for next lead, hard to equalize well • C. Cordelette • +: single point to clip, good for leading in blocks • -: requires carrying extra 1-2 pieces of gear, may not be long enough to reach all placements • D. Equalette • +: Same advantages as cordelette, but better equalization • -: Takes additional time if limiter knots must be retied

  30. 3. Multipitch climb sequence • Safety on approach (rope up on demand) • Tie in and check knots/harnesses • Bottom anchor if exposed ledge, leader outweighs follower, or ledge fall possible • Location of belay anchor (to side) • Clipping to belay anchor • 2 Clove hitches, or Daisy chain + 1 clove

  31. 3. Multipitch sequence (cont’d) • Stacking belay rope (and second rope) • Lead belay position • Feed out rope; some slack for quick clips • Space to bring braking hand to side/back

  32. Special risk - Factor 2 Fall • Problems: • A. High force on belay anchor - could fail • B. Difficult to hold leader fall. Friction of rope running over biner makes 50% easier! • Solutions: • A. Clip rope through quickdraw on anchor • B. Leader places 1-2 strong pieces early

  33. 4. Multiple rappels • Four main risks: • A. Rappel anchor fails • B. Rappel off end of rope (sometimes due to uneven length ropes) • C. Loose rock knocked by rope onto climbers • D. Ropes hang up during pull

  34. Munter Hitch

More Related