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2008

???. ??????????????????????????. Skin care creams, lotions, powdersPerfume, cologne, toilet waterMakeup (lipsticks, foundation, blush)Nail polish, polish remover, cuticle softenerHair preparationsDeodorantsShaving cream, after shave, skin conditionerShampoosBath oils and bubble bathMout

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2008

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    2. ??? ??????? ???? ???? ???? ??????? Skin care creams, lotions, powders Perfume, cologne, toilet water Makeup (lipsticks, foundation, blush) Nail polish, polish remover, cuticle softener Hair preparations Deodorants Shaving cream, after shave, skin conditioner Shampoos Bath oils and bubble bath Mouthwash and toothpaste

    5. ???????? ???????,??????2 m2 ????: ?? (Protection) ?????? (thermoregulation) ?? (sensation) ???? (secretion) ???? (absorption) ?? (keratinization) ???? (Pigmentation)

    6. ??:????0.2 mm ???:?????????????????????? ???:??????????????? ? ???????????????????? (filaments) ??,?????? ???:??????????????,??????????????????????????,?????? ???:???????????????,???????????,???????????????????????????,?????? ???:???????????,????????? ???????????????????????????,?????????,?????28?,???????????????????4???

    7. ???? ???????????? ????????, ????????? ???????????????? ????????????????????????? ?????????????

    8. ? ?: ?????,??????? ?????????,????????????????????????????????????????????????? (reticulin) ??? ???: ?????????????????????????? (triple helical) ???????,??glycine?proline?hydroxyproline?????? ????: ?????????????????? elastomucin ??????, ???? ??: ?????????,????? hyaluronic acid ???? Chondroitin Sulfate

    9. ?? ????????,??????? ??????????????,?????????,???????????????? ?????????????,?????????????????? (anagen) : ???4???????????? (catagen) : ????????????,????????? ; ???2-4??????? (telogen) : ????3??,?????????????? ????????: ??? (cuticIe):?????????,???????? ??? (cortex):??????????,????????? ?? (medulla):???????, ????????????????????,???????????????????????????,?????????????

    10. ????????? ???: ????????,??????????? ??????: ??????????;?????????? ??:???????????? ??????:?????????? ????:????????????

    11. ?????????? ?????,????????? ???? ???? ???? ?????,?????????? ???? ???? ????

    12. ?????? ??????? Guerlain (1828) ?Shiseido (1872)? Max Factor (1909) ?Helena Rubinstein (1900) ? Elizabeth Arden (1910) ? Estee Lauder (1946) ??????????? ?????? ??????

    13. ???????? ??? ???? ?????? ????? ??????????? ????????????

    14. ????????????? ??????? ??????? ?????? ?????? ?????????? ????? ?????? ??????? ?????? ???? ????? ?? ?????A??B??? ??(?????) ?????? ??????????? ????(????????????????) ????????? ?????

    15. ??????? ?????????????????? ???????,????????????????????????????,???????????,???????? ??????????????????

    16. ?????????? Cosmeceuticals = Cosmetics + Pharmaceuticals ????? ????????? ???????? ???? ????????? ???????????? ???? ???????? ????????????????? ???? ????????? ?????????

    17. ???? ???? ?? ?? ?? ???? ???? ???? ??? ??? ?? ???? ??? ???? ??

    18. ???????

    19. ??? A ???A? Retinol ???A? Retinal ???A? Retinoic acid All-trans retinoic acid (Tretinoin) 13-cis retinoic acid (Isotretinoin) ????A Retinoids

    20. ??? A ??????,?????????????????????? ?????????,?????????,?????????????,????????? ?????????????,????????????????,????????????????????

    21. ??? A ??????? ???????? ????????? ????Basal Cell??????????? ????????? ????? ????????? ????????? ??? ????????????? ???????? ?????????????

    22. ?????? ???????? ???????? ?????? ?????????????? ???? ???C????E Q10????(????) ??? SOD????? ??????? ???A (A??A??A?) ??(??????) ??????(cytokinins?kinetin?) ????(EGF?FGF?VEGF) ??? ??????(Argireline) ???(Metrixyl 3000) ???(GHK-Copper)

    23. ?? ????? ???(ZnO) ????(TiO2) *??? *???? ????? ??/p? ????????????,???????????? *????? *????

    24. ??????? ????????,????????????????? ????????????,????????????? ????????????????(photcatalytic)???,?????,???????????????????????? ?????????????,?????????????,????????????????,??????? ?????????,??????????????????????? ????????,??????????????

    25. ??????? ??????????????,????????????????????????????? ???????????????,?????????????,?????????????????????? ????????,???????????????????????,????????????????????????????UVA?UVB???,???????????

    27. ???????????? ??????? Cellular humectancy *??????(natural moisturizing factor; NMF) ?? urea ??? lactide ???????? Intercellular occlusion *?????: ????????? ???? Linoleic acid ???? Ceramides

    29. ???? (Ceramide) ???????????????????,?????40~50%? ????????????????????,?????????,??????????,?????????? Ceramide????????? Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6-II

    30. ????? ?????? ??????pH 5-6 ???????? ??????? ?????????????? ??? C??????? ???????????? ???????????????

    31. ?? AHA Alpha hydroxy acid a-hydroxy acid BHA Beta hydroxy acid ß-hydroxy acid R-Ca(OH)-COOH R-Cb(OH)-Ca-COOH

    32. ?? ????,??????????Moisturizing effect ?????????????,??????Peeling effect ?????,??????????????? ???????????,??????? ????????????????????? ? pH ? ? stimulation of cell renewal pH >6 (very little stimulation of the skin) pH ? 3 (maximal stimulation of renewal ) Strong correlation between skin irritation and cell renewal stimulation

    34. ????????? Before melanin synthesis Tyrosinase transcription Tyrosinase glycosylation During melanin synthesis Tyrosinase inhibitor Peroxidase inhibitor Product reduction and ROS scavengers After melanin synthesis Melanosome transfer inhibitor Skin turnover accelerator

    35. ????? Ascorbyl palmitate ????? Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate ????????? ???? Liposomes Micelle

    36. ??? C??????? ??? ????????????? ???? ???????? ??????? ??????Exfoliation ? ??????

    37. ???????? ????? ??? ??????? ??????? ????????? ????????????????? ??????????

    38. ???? ?? ??????????? ???? ?????? ???? ?? ???????? ???? ???? Benzoyl peroxide 2.5 - 10 % Salicylic acid 0.5 - 2 % Sulfur 3 - 10 % Resorcinol 2 - 3 % +sulfur 3 - 8 % Resorcinol monoacetate 2-3 % +sulfur 3 - 8 % ???????A???

    39. ??? (Astaxanthin) ???????? ?????????????A ???? ???????????ß-?????10? ??????,?????(??????)

    40. Kinetin ??? ?????? ????????(Cytokinetins) ???????,??????? ?????????????,??????????? ???????????A?????

    41. ?????? ?????(Signal peptides) ?????(Carrier peptides) ???????????(Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides) ????????,??(Peptide)?????????????????,??Peptide?2?50????????,??????,?????????????????????Peptide,??3?7?????????,???????5?6??,??????????,??????????????,????????? ????????????: 1.??????:????????????????????,???????????,???????????????????????????,???6?Peptide????Argireline,???????????????,???????? 2.????????:???????????(MMPs)???,?????????????Regenerist,???????Peptide(Pal-KTTKS),?5??????????(????),??????,??????????????????,??????,?????????????? 3.??????:??????,???????,???????????????????Matrixyl,???5????????,??????Peptide,?????????????????,?????????????????????? 4.??????:???????,????????,????????????? ????????,??(Peptide)?????????????????,??Peptide?2?50????????,??????,?????????????????????Peptide,??3?7?????????,???????5?6??,??????????,??????????????,????????? ????????????: 1.??????:????????????????????,???????????,???????????????????????????,???6?Peptide????Argireline,???????????????,???????? 2.????????:???????????(MMPs)???,?????????????Regenerist,???????Peptide(Pal-KTTKS),?5??????????(????),??????,??????????????????,??????,?????????????? 3.??????:??????,???????,???????????????????Matrixyl,???5????????,??????Peptide,?????????????????,?????????????????????? 4.??????:???????,????????,?????????????

    42. ?????(Signal peptides) ?????????????,???valine-glycine-valine-alanine-proline-glycine (VGVAPG):??????????????????????????????,????????MMP-1?MMP-3??????,????????????? ??tyrosine-tyrosine-arginine-alanine- aspartame- aspartame-alanine????????????????-C(Procollagen C proteinase),??????????? lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine(KTTKS)??????????????,?????????????????????,??????,???????????????(Palmitic acid),????pal- KTTKS,?????????????????????

    43. ?????(Carrier peptides) ?????,????????????????????????????????? (Superoxide dismutase;SOD)????????? (Lysyl oxidase)?(Cytochrome-c Oxidase)??(Tyrosinase)?????????????????????????? glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine (GHK)??????????????? GHK-Cu???(Glycosaminoglycan)?(Chondroitin sulfate)?(Dermatan sulfate)?(Heparin sulfate)?? ,????????????,?????????

    44. ???????????(Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides) acetyl-glutamyl-glutamyl-methyoxylglutaminyl-arginyl-arginylamide (Argireline?)??????????????????(Calcium-dependent exocytosis)????????,???????????????????????????? SNARE complex ?????????????????,??????????(Catecholamine)???,??Catecholamine?????????????????;???????????SNARE complex ??

    45. Argireline® Studies show it reduces the depth of expression wrinkles, especially in the forehead and around the eyes. It is believed to function through modulation of the SNARE complex formulation. INCI Name: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.

    46. MATRIXYL™ 3000 MATRIXYL™ 3000 utilizes the two matrikines™ for their synergistic effect in the neosynthesis of extracellular matrix molecules,and lifts and firms the skin. INCI Name: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7* *Former INCI NAME: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3

    47. ???? Growth Factor EGF : Epidermal Growth Factor???????? ??????????? ???????? ??????????? ?????????????????? ??????????,???? ????????????? ?? FGF: Fibroblast Growth Factor????????? ???? ????????????? ????????? ?????????????? ??????????? ??????,??????? ??????? IGF: Insulin like Growth Factor???????? ???????????? ???????????? ?????????? ???????? ??????? ??????????? VEGF : Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor?????????? ???????????????????? ???????? ???????? TGF-ß3 : Transforming Growth Factor-ß3 ???????? ???????????? ??????? ??????

    48. ?????????? ????????????,???????????????????? ??????????????????????,????????????????????????,??????????

    49. ???????? ??????? Nanoparticle Titanium dioxide?Zinc oxide?Iron oxide Mica and other metal oxide ?????? Nanocarrier Liposome and ethosome Nanosome and micelle Fullerene ???????Nanofiber Mask containing chitin/chitosan fiber

    50. ?????? ???????????? ????????????????????? ??????????????? ????????????????????,?????????

    51. ??????--->?? (rejuvenation) ?????????(thermal effect)??????????????????????? ??????????? ???(Ablasive):?????,????,??????????????????? ??????(Non-ablasive):??????,???????????,????????????? ???(Ablasive Fractional):?????,???????,?????????????????????????,????????????? ????????????????

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