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Seam Finishes. Finishing seams on your own clothing. Today Objectives. What is a seam? What is a seam allowance? What is a seam finish? How do we decide which seam finish we should use? What kinds of seams do our clothes have? Learn about nine different seam finishes. What is a seam?.
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Today Objectives • What is a seam? • What is a seam allowance? • What is a seam finish? • How do we decide which seam finish we should use? • What kinds of seams do our clothes have? • Learn about nine different seam finishes
What is a seam? • Line of stitching. • Hold two pieces of fabric together. • Basic part of garment construction. • Secured by backstitching.
What is a Seam Allowance? • Flap of fabric allowed to sew a seam. • 5/8” is most common for clothing patterns.
What is a Seam Finish? • Finish applied to raw edge of seam allowance. • Prevents fraying, curling and strengthens fabric.
The type of finish you choose for your seams depends on: • Type of fabric • How neat you want your seams to look • Durability • Time • Type of sewing machine
Plain Seam • Description One line of sewing at 5/8” seam allowance • Suitable for Delicate items • Advantages Very easy to make • Disadvantages Not as strong as other stitches
Straight Stitch Seam Finish • Description This is a plain seam with an extra line of stitching • Suitable for The straight stitch can be used as a seam finish on firmly woven fabrics which ravel slightly. • Advantages It is effective in preventing the seam allowances in knits from curling. • Disadvantages Does not look as neat as other methods.
Pinked Edge Seam Finish • Description • The raw edges of the seam allowance are trimmed with • pinking shears. • Suitable For • Most fabrics except those very prone to raveling. • Advantages • Fast and easy. Doesn’t add bulk to the seam allowance. • Disadvantages • Doesn’t look as neat and clean as other methods. May not keep fabrics from fraying, especially if the finished item will be laundered. Requires special scissors to make.
Zig Zag Seam Finish • Description A zigzag stitch is sewn close to or over the raw edge of the seam allowance. • Suitable For Most fabrics • Advantages Effective at keeping the raw edges of the seam allowance from fraying. Adds little bulk to the seam allowance. • Disadvantages Doesn’t look as neat and clean as some other methods.
Clean-Finish Seam Finish • Description The edges of the seam allowance are turned under and stitched. • Suitable For Light to medium weight fabrics. • Advantages Makes a neat, clean finish that won’t ravel. • Disadvantages Adds bulk to the seam allowance, making it unsuitable for heavier fabrics.
Narrow Seam Finish • Description The narrow seam finish is often used to control the curling seam allowances of knit fabrics. It also reduces the size of the seam allowance, making it more comfortable to wear. • Suitable for Children clothing, or any fabric that needs extra strength. • Advantages The narrow seam can be used anywhere on a garment, but it is especially useful where extra strength is needed. • Disadvantages May add bulk to the fabric.
Flat Felled Seam Finish • Description The raw edge of the seam allowance is encased, then topstitched on the outside. • Suitable for: Most fabrics. Items that need durable seams. • AdvantagesMakes a neat, clean finish. Raw edges will not ravel because they are completely encased. Makes a very sturdy seam. • Disadvantages Requires precise pressing and sewing. Somewhat time consuming. Makes a topstitched seam on the outside you may not want.
French Seam Finish • Description The raw edge of the seam allowance is enclosed in a secondary seam. • Suitable For Light weight fabrics and fabrics that are prone to raveling. Ideal for items that will have visible seams. • Advantages -very neat, clean finish. -Raw edges will not ravel because completely encased. • Disadvantages - Adds bulk ,making it unsuitable for medium to heavy weight fabrics. -A little complicated to make. -Somewhat time consuming. - Requires precise sewing.
Serged Seam Finish • Description A line of overcast stitches is sewn over the raw edge of the seam allowance. • Suitable For Most fabrics • Advantages Produces a neat, clean finish that’s fray resistant. Adds little bulk to the seam allowance. Quick and easy to make because the stitching and trimming can be done in one step. • Disadvantages You need a serger machine to make the stitch.
Take another look at your clothing. Which Seam Finishes do you have?
Summary What is a seam, seam allowance, seam finish? Deciding on Seam finish Type of fabric How neat you want your seams to look Durability Time Type of sewing machine
Nine Types of Seam Finishes 1.Plain Seam 2.Straight Stitch Seam Finish 3.Pinked Edge Seam Finish 4.Zig Zag Seam Finish 5.Clean-Finish Seam Finish 6.Narrow Seam Finish 7.Flat Felled Seam Finish 8.French Seam Finish 9.Serged Seam Finish