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François Christiaens, L’Oréal Recherche,Clichy, France

L’Oréal and Solar UV Radiation. François Christiaens, L’Oréal Recherche,Clichy, France. INTRODUCTION L’Oréal, an overview in 2003. 100 years of expertise in cosmetics. 17 global brands. 14 billion euro consolidated sales. 480 million euro invested in R&D. 50,500 employees.

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François Christiaens, L’Oréal Recherche,Clichy, France

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  1. L’Oréal and Solar UV Radiation François Christiaens, L’Oréal Recherche,Clichy, France

  2. INTRODUCTION L’Oréal, an overview in 2003 • 100 years of expertise in cosmetics • 17 global brands • 14 billion euro consolidated sales • 480 million euro invested in R&D • 50,500 employees • 15% share of the global cosmetics market • 3.9 billion units manufactured annually • 130 products sold every second

  3. COSMETICS, UNIQUE EXPERTISE A brand portfolio that is unique in the world www.loreal.com

  4. 480-million-euro R&D budget 2,900 staff members 1/3 of the R&D budget is earmarked for advanced research Numerous scientific papers in peer-reviewed journals and presentations in congress More than 500 patents filed per year 8 research centers in Europe, 3 in North America and 3 in Asia 3 evaluation centers in Europe, 4 in America and 3 in Asia RESEARCH, DRIVING GROWTH

  5. African skin Chinese skin European skin Motivation for participating in the project (background) 1/2 Hair and skin occupy a special place on the surface of the human body, in direct contact with the environment. Their diversity and the alterations they may show are partly linked to climate and pollution.

  6. Motivation for participating in the project (background) 2/2 Exposure to solar radiation can have severe consequences: • Skin: erythema, ageing, dryness, immunodeficiency, allergies, pigmentation, wrinkles... • Hair: protein and lipid oxidation, with consequences on the cosmetic aspect and properties (fragility). The UltraViolet waveband of the solar spectrum is involved in these alterations.

  7. INFORMATION NEEDS UV irradiances and doses Both physical (UVB, UVA) and biologically-weigthed (erythemal) Kind of data: - Climatologies - Global and local maxima and averages - Time series at different locations - Forecasts

  8. LIMITATIONS OF EXISTING INFORMATION Too few (or geographically missing) collecting sites worlwide Limited availability of data over time Instrumental intercomparison is required because of different: - instruments - calibration and operating procedures No data on UVA radiation available

  9. Handling of data by the end-user • - Interactive maps and ASCII format • - Delivery method: web-page, with a user-friendly interface for a consumer REQUIREMENTS « Physical » requirements: - Sea level - Region: Global, but focused on populated areas - Spatial resolution: 1 by 1 degree - Time period: climatology - Max. time delay: means for every ten days or less/more often depending on the variation in time of the product (a significant variation is 20 %) - (When applicable: Spectral step: 1 nm) - Accuracy: better than 5%

  10. Sub-contractor and industrial partneron the road to success INVOLVEMENT • Specifications definition • Periodical follow-up (includes attending to meetings) • Feed-back: - Improvement proposals - Related links

  11. PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (1/3) Clear-sky UV index, global and Europe • Today and 4-days forecast based on SCIAMACHY data • Climatologies based on GOME data, including monthly averages and yearly extrema

  12. PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (2/3) Erythemal UV doses: • Individual day data for 2004 (SCIAMACHY) • Climatologies, 1995-2003, from GOME data

  13. PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (3/3) On-line help www.temis.nl

  14. ASSESSMENT Comparisons with published models and local ground measures Ease of use / care of specifications Assistance quality: - relevance - full answer - delay

  15. Implementation of UVA data • Delays for the availability of time series • Information whether such improvements can be achieved: • - High spatial resolution: 10 x 10 km • - Spectral irradiance for the waveband 280-1100 nm EXPECTATIONS FOR THE REMAINDER IN THE PROJECT Complementary products - Interactive maps - UV-index and UV doses results after may 2003 (i.e. based on SCIAMACHY): Yearly averages and extrema, monthly averages and climatologies, both for global and areas of interest

  16. PLANS FOR THE USE OF EO-SERVICES AFTER THE PROJECT (1/2) Improve the relevance of indoor tests: • Mimic actual UV spectra in solar simulators • Fine-tune the doses delivered in: • internal tests, • sub-contractors laboratories, • studies made within scientific collaboration • Provide cosmetic products customised to consumer needs, worldwide

  17. PLANS FOR THE USE OF EO-SERVICES AFTER THE PROJECT (2/2) Help our scientific communication: • To provide services that rely on high-technology work, and thus take a lead over competitors • To convince people about the benefits of UV photoprotection • Here is what your lovely, healthy skin looks like when not exposed (waow) • Here are the UV doses you may receive (ouch) • Here is the biological damage when exposed to these doses (argh) • When you apply a right product, your skin (hairs) is protected (phew)

  18. CONCLUSION L’Oréal and ESA/KNMI: A state-of-the-art scientific collaboration… …because you’re worth it!

  19. Thank you for your attention

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