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3rd Technical & Progress Meeting

3rd Technical & Progress Meeting. INESCOP PROJECT PROGRESS AND PLANNED ACTIVITIES. LIFE 10 ENV/IT/364. Elda (Alicante) INESCOP 13rd June 2013. Mercedes Roig Joaquín Ferrer INESCOP. 1. INESCOP Project Progress (Jun-Dec’12). 2. Action 2. Environmental impact of fatliquoring agents.

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3rd Technical & Progress Meeting

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  1. 3rd Technical & Progress Meeting INESCOP PROJECT PROGRESS AND PLANNED ACTIVITIES LIFE 10 ENV/IT/364 Elda (Alicante) INESCOP 13rd June 2013 Mercedes Roig Joaquín Ferrer INESCOP 1

  2. INESCOP Project Progress (Jun-Dec’12) 2

  3. Action 2. Environmental impact of fatliquoring agents Objective: To assess the environmental impact of fatliquoring agents Tasks: Selection of leather fatliquoring product families Definition of parameters to be analysed Preparation of leathers Laboratory, semi-industrial and industrial scale tests Analysis of fatliquoring products Characterization of fatliquoring residual baths Leather analysis: physical-chemical tests / organoleptic properties 3

  4. 1. Selecting the fatliquoring products Semi-industrial Pre-industrial Laboratory Fatliquoring products Residual baths Fatliquored leather • pH • Conductivity • COD - BOD Biodegradability Chromium III Oils & Fats Fat in leather Chromium VI Physical tests Arsenic Cadmium Lead Fatliquoring agents 2. Parameters to be assessed 3. Leather fatliquoring tests 4

  5. Working procedure for leather fatliquoring 4. Process performed for leather fatliquoring: * Compensated for each commercial fat in order to ensure the same amount of fat added

  6. Feel:good degree of softening Colour: different shades but acceptable Firmness: adequate firmness of the leather Fatliquored leather: organoleptic properties 1. Sulphated olein 2. Sulphonated olein 3. Sulphited olein 4. Sulphited fish oil 5. Oxidated lecithin 6. Sulphated ester 7. Phosphoric ester 8. Sulphochlorinated paraffin 9. Synthetic oil 10. Fatliquoring polymer There are no relevant differences in the appearance of the leathers depending on the type of fatliquoring agent used 6

  7. Wastewater: conclusions • The polluting load of all baths was quite similar • Results at pre-industrial scale tests are always better probably due to a better fixation of the products thanks to the greater mechanical effect in the bigger tanning drums • None of the families assessed stand out for their lower environmental impact on wastewater in all the parameters

  8. Wastewater: reference values

  9. Fatliquored leathers conclusions • There are some differences in the laboratory, semi-industrial and pre-industrial tests results due to better mechanical effect, but not so significant as those mentioned for wastewater parameters • Oxidised lecithin, Phosphoric ester, Sulphited fish oil, Sulphited olein and Sulphated olein are the fatliquoring agents showing a higher Cr(VI) formation after aging • All physical properties tested are above recommended thresholds for their use in shoe uppers, leather goods, upholstery and garments • None of the families assessed stand out for their better quality in all the parameters

  10. Fatliquored leather: reference values

  11. Action 4-6. Environmental demonstration of natural products Objective: To assess the environmental impact of natural fatliquoring products and compare with the results obtained with commercial products (action 2) Tasks: Laboratory, semi-industrial and pre-industrial scale fatliquoring tests Characterization of natural fatliquoring products Characterization of fatliquoring residual baths Analysis on leather 11

  12. Characterization of natural fatliquoring products Determining the levels of arsenic, cadmium, and lead contained in the products, in order to prevent these substances from being present in leather in accordance with the criteria of the European Eco-label for footwear (Decision 2009/563/EC). Arsenic: < 60 ppm * Cadmium: < 6 ppm * Lead: < 8 ppm* * Limit of detection of the analysis technique employed

  13. Characterization of fatliquoring residual baths Calf hides

  14. Characterization of fatliquoring residual baths Sheep Skins

  15. Organoleptic test Touch and softness Adequate levels of firmness No significant differences in colour

  16. Physical resistance tests Calf hides

  17. Physical resistance tests Sheep skins

  18. Chemical resistance tests Calf hides

  19. Chemical resistance tests Sheep skins

  20. Conclusions • Leathers have an acceptable appearance, full and firm, with a soft and pleasant feel and no significant differences were observed in the addition of the different natural fatliquoring tested. • Natural fatliquoring products showed were less than the Arsenic, Cadmium and Lead limits • The biodegradability of the FAME fatliquoring bath samples (based of fatty acid methyl esters) improves by 5 - 36% with respect to the average value of the assessed fatliquoring products (1-10 product families).

  21. Conclusions • Regarding the touch of the leathers tested, this was graded on the level of softness obtained • In reference to the firmness of the leather, all of the natural fatliquors that were tested, none produced leather with loose grain characteristics • Regarding colour, differences in final leather colour tone were observed upon the use of the various natural fatliquors, but no significant differences were present. • Finally, the determinations of physical and chemical parameters of the leathers have shown to be compliant with the limits required for footwear manufacture.

  22. INESCOP’s Newsletters • INESCOP Environment Newsletter Jan’12 • INESCOP Environment Newsletter Feb’12 • INESCOP Environment Newsletter April’12 • INESCOP Environment Newsletter Jun’12 • INESCOP Environment Newsletter Jul’12 • INESCOP News Jun’12 • INESCOP Environment Newsletter Dec’12

  23. INESCOP’s dissemination at Congresses • Conference in Green Week 2012, Brussels (Belgium) • 1st Water, Waste and Energy Management Congress, Salamanca (Spain) • Industrial Technologies Congress 2012, Aarhus (Denmark) • 18th Congress of the Latin American Federation of Leather Technologists and Chemists (FLAQTIC 2012), Montevideo (Uruguay) • 62nd Congress of the Spanish Leather Chemists Association (AQEIC 2013), Lorca – Murcia (Spain) • LIFE+ Networking Event, Valencia (Spain) 62nd AQEIC Congress May 2013 Lorca - Murcia - Spain

  24. International conferences and fairs • 21st Edition of ECOFIRA 2012, International Fair of Environmental Solutions. Valencia (Spain) • 12th Edition of Green Week, Brussels (Belgium) • 28th Edition of the International Footwear Fair, FUTURMODA, Alicante, (Spain) • 29th Edition of the International Footwear Fair, FUTURMODA, Alicante (Spain) XXIX Edition Futurmoda Fair April de 2013 Alicante (Spain)

  25. Updating the project website

  26. INESCOP´s next steps 26

  27. Thanks for your attention

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