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Time And Exposure. Tony Schountz FCDCC December 2011. Shutter Speed. Shutter speed controls the duration of light striking the sensor Most DSLRs have shutter speeds of 1/4,000” to 30”
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Time And Exposure • Tony Schountz • FCDCC • December 2011
Shutter Speed • Shutter speed controls the duration of light striking the sensor • Most DSLRs have shutter speeds of 1/4,000” to 30” • As a rule, handheld photography can be done using a shutter speed that is the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens • If you’re shooting a 200mm lens, then 1/200” of a second is the slowest shutter speed you should use without a tripod • Image stabilization (IS, VR, OS, etc.) can reduce this up to 4 stops, or 1/12” with a 200mm lens. • Faster shutter speeds are used to stop action • Slower shutter speeds are used to emphasize motion
Stopping Action • Fast-moving objects • Cars • Planes • Baseballs • Bicycles • Sometimes flash is required • Very fast objects • Slow maximum shutter speed • Specialized releases
Dali Atomicus Philippe Halsman
Slow Shutter Speed • “Time Exposure” • Longer shutter speeds • Tripod or other stabilizing device • From 1/30” to about 1/4” mirror lock-up (MLU) is often required • “B” (bulb) setting allows prolonged exposures • Not all cameras have a “B” setting • Requires electronic release • When battery is exhausted the shutter will close • Reduce ISO to lowest setting
Equipment For Slow Shutter Speed Photography • Stable tripod • Remote • Wired • Wireless • Neutral density filters • Pan head
Neutral Density Filters • Reduce the amount of light passing through the lens • They are called “neutral” because they do not cause color shifts • Allow longer exposures in bright conditions Neutral density nomenclature
Lee Big Stopper • ND3 • 10 stop reduction of light transmission • A 1” exposure becomes a 17 minute exposure • $160
1/30” 2”
30” ND1.2 (4 stops)
Panning • Following a moving object • Object remains (relatively) sharp • Background exhibits lateral motion blur • Pan heads are great for this, but handheld can work, too
Deleting Objects During a long exposure, moving objects are not recorded as well as static objects, thus they disappear from the image
Night Photography • Often requires long exposures or higher ISO settings • Noise becomes more of an issue • Some cameras will take a second exposure without recording light • The noise from this second exposure is subtracted from the first exposure
Lightning • Specialized equipment to trigger the camera • At night, just leave the shutter open for several seconds • Set exposure based upon lighted object • Wait for the lightning to strike • Lighting is so bright that it will typically show up on the image, even at small apertures
Interval Timer • Releases shutter at user-defined intervals • The number of releases are also user-defined • Also acts as a single-shot release • Perfect for time-lapse photography • Recorded images can be assembled into a “video” using widely-available software (iMovie on Macs)
Time-Lapse Photography • Set camera to JPEG • 1900x1080 is considered “high-def” for display on televisions • This will maximize the number of shots written to your camera’s flash card • Determine exposure and set it • Be careful with autoexposure if you expect dramatic changes in light, such as sunsets or sunrises • Set the interval timer’s: • Intervals (e.g. one shot per 10 seconds) • Number of shots (up to 999)
Assembling the Movie • Import still images into software • Set frame-rate • Varies depending on number of frames, but 12 frames per second to 24 frames per second is often used • A 1 minute video at 15 fps contains 900 images • Add audio, if desired • Export as a movie file
Videos • http://vimeo.com/18554749 • http://vimeo.com/15368982