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28. Serging Skills. Objective. Summarize how the serger functions. How the Serger Functions. Sergers provide a factory-like finish to home-sewn garments Also called overlock or overedge machines In one step, sergers join two layers of fabric to form a seam trim extra seam allowance
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28 Serging Skills
Objective • Summarize how the serger functions.
How the Serger Functions • Sergers provide a factory-like finish to home-sewn garments • Also called overlock or overedge machines • In one step, sergers • join two layers of fabric to form a seam • trim extra seam allowance • and overcast fabric edges continued
How the Serger Functions • Sergers cannot be used for all sewing tasks • Most sergers only stitch on fabric edges and not inside areas © BERNINA of America, Inc. continued
How the Serger Functions • Newer machines have stitches similar to regular sewing machine stitches but cannot embroider, make buttonholes, or insert zippers • Most home sewers use the serger to supplement—not replace—a conventional sewing machine continued
How the Serger Functions • Advantages of using a serger • Works well on fabrics from lightweight chiffon to heavyweight denim, as well as knit and woven fabrics • Make doing hems and ruffles quick and easy • Give a professional seam finish to garments such as unlined jackets, curtains, place mats, and other items continued
How the Serger Functions • A serger uses two, three, four, or five cones of thread depending on the model • It uses one, two, or even three needles • Instead of bobbins, it has upper and lower loopers that form the stitch © Dmitry Kalinovsky/Shutterstock continued
How the Serger Functions • A serger loops thread around the needle thread, encasing the fabric edge (a sewing machine creates stitches by interlocking bobbin and needle threads) • Looper threads do not penetrate the fabric • The needles and loopers form stitches over the fabric edge as it passes through • During stitching, knife blades trim the seam allowances continued
How the Serger Functions • A serger performs many functions at the same time to create the stitches • As you feed fabric into the machine, it reaches the feed dogs first • As fabric moves along, the knives trim the edge • Then loopers and needles form the stitches on the fabric • Fabric then feeds off the stitch finger behind the needle continued
How the Serger Functions • A serger runs much faster than a conventional sewing machine • Using a serger can reduce the sewing time of a project by as much as half
Think About It © Levent Konuk/Shutterstock Why does using a serger reduce the time needed to sew a garment?
Objective • Identify serger machine parts and basic serger stitches.
Serger Machine Parts • Although there are a variety of types and models of sergers, they have many similarities • The instruction manual for a serger identifies the parts of the machine and the function of each
Basic Serger Stitches • Serger stitches vary with machine make and model • Aside from common stitches, sergers can produce decorative stitches for an interesting look and extra emphasis
Overedge Stitch • Overedge stitchis used solely as an edge finish on garments • Uses one needle and one looper • Can prevent raveling in sheer and lightweight fabrics • Least bulky stitch © BERNINA of America, Inc.
Flatlock Stitch • Flatlock stitchuses one needle and one looper to join a seam; a three-thread stitch uses two loopers • Used in sportswear or lingerie elastic application • Seam is visible from right side of garment © BERNINA of America, Inc.
Rolled Edge Stitch • Rolled edge stitchcreates a rolled hem; seaming for sheers, laces, or silk • Use to stitch narrow rolled hems to finish scarves, ruffles, etc. • Use three-thread machines for light- to medium-weight © BERNINA of America, Inc.
Overlock Stitch • Overlock stitchis a three-, four-, or five-thread stitch • Core serger stitch • Stitches, trims, and overedges a seam in one operation • Suitable for a wide variety of weights and types of fabric © BERNINA of America, Inc.
Cover Stitch • Cover stitchis a stretchable stitch mainly used for hemming knits • One looper thread interlocks all the needle threads • Does not use cutting blade © BERNINA of America, Inc.
Chain Stitch • Chain stitch does not overlock fabric edge • Functions as a standard straight stitch when cutting knives are disengaged • Top side looks like a straight stitch; underside resembles a chain © BERNINA of America, Inc.
Objective • Summarize how to select thread and accessories for the serger.
Selecting Thread and Accessories • Special serger threads are available on cones or tubes • Advantages of serger threads include • fineness for delicate finishing and less bulk • strength • cross-winding for smooth top feeding during high-speed sewing • larger quantities • economy continued
Selecting Thread and Accessories © BERNINA of America, Inc. • The cone adapter is used when the thread is on a cone continued
Selecting Thread and Accessories • Place a spool cap(or unreeling disk) over the spool to provide even feeding of thread © BERNINA of America, Inc. continued
Selecting Thread and Accessories • Some slippery or specialty threads require the use of a thread net that helps prevent thread tangling © BERNINA of America, Inc.
Objective • Demonstrate how to thread and operate the serger, adjusting thread tensions and stitches as needed.
Threading the Serger • Follow the directions in the owner’s manual provided with your serger • Many machines are marked with a color-coded threading guide • Thread the loopers and needles in the correct order; otherwise, the threads may break or stitches may not form properly continued
Threading the Serger • Always thread the loopers before the needles—the upper looper first • Each time you change thread, you can tie threads from the new spools to the old threads to save time
Operating the Serger • Set all tension dials to 5 (or as directed by the instruction manual) • Make sure the upper knife is lowered and in the cutting position • Lower the presser foot © Alex Hinds/Shutterstock continued
Operating the Serger 4. Holding the thread chain or tails lightly behind the presser foot, serge a 2- to 3-inch thread chain; this is called chaining off • Place the fabric in front of the presser foot where the longer feed dogs will pull the fabric forward; do not push or pull the fabric continued
Operating the Serger • At the end of the seam, continue sewing to form a 3-inch thread chain; do not raise the presser foot continued © BERNINA of America, Inc.
Operating the Serger 7. Holding the fabric in one hand, pull the thread chain over the thread cutter on the presser foot shank
Adjusting Thread Tension • Thread tensions may need to be adjusted for changes in fabrics, threads, stitch type • A serger has a tension regulator for each thread • To make tension adjustments, turn the dial by only half or one number; test sew and check the results
Adjusting Stitch Length and Width • When fabrics, threads, or stitches are changed, the stitch length and width may need to be adjusted • Use shorter, narrower stitches for lightweight fabrics • Use longer, wider stitches for heavyweight fabrics continued
Adjusting Stitch Length and Width • Length of the stitch is distance in millimeters (mm) between needle penetrations • Width of the stitch is distance in millimeters between the needle thread and the trimmed edge of the fabric Stitch width Stitch length continued
Adjusting Stitch Length and Width • To change the length of the stitch, use the stitch length adjustment dial • To change the width of the stitch, some sergers have an adjustable dial; other sergers may require a change in the needle plate
Objective • Demonstrate proper use of a serger to construct a garment.
Using a Serger in Clothing Construction • A serger can be used three ways © BERNINA of America, Inc.
One-Step Method • Seams are stitched, trimmed, and overcast all at one time by the serger • Needle stitches on the seam line • Knives automatically trim the correct amount
Edge Finish Method • Garment’s raw seam edges are finished with the serger • Garment is then stitched together with a sewing machine continued
Edge Finish Method • Recommended when fit is uncertain and for tailored garments sewn from wools, linens, and silk • Using the continuous overcasting techniquecan save time
Narrow Double-Stitched Seam Method • Creates a narrow double-stitched seam • Ideal for light- to medium-weight woven fabrics or knit fabrics • Use to reinforce areas of stress in a garment continued
Narrow Double-Stitched Seam Method • Standard 5/8-inch seam is stitched using a sewing machine (two lines of stitching are shown to the right) • Seam allowances are serged together (with needle 1/8 inch from the first line of stitching) © Frank Zosky, Photographer
Mock Flat-Felled Seam • Mock flat-felled seam uses both the conventional sewing machine and the serger • Useful with denim and other heavyweight woven fabrics continued
Mock Flat-Felled Seam • Stitch a standard seam with right sides together using the sewing machine • Using a serger, overlock the seam allowances together, trimming slightly • Press seam allowances toward one side continued
Mock Flat-Felled Seam 4. Using a sewing machine, topstitch from the right side next to the seam line 5. Topstitch again 1/4 inch away from the first topstitching line through all layers
Think About It Which two methods of using a serger in clothing construction require the use of a sewing machine as well? © Levent Konuk/Shutterstock © OfiPlus/Shutterstock
Selecting a Pattern • Many commercial patterns are designed specifically for serger sewing, but the serger can be used to sew a garment from any pattern to some degree • Since sergers trim seam allowances as they sew, they are often used to sew loose, unfitted, knitted garments that do not require precise fitting
Transferring Pattern Markings • Mark garment pattern pieces with a water-soluble or air-erasable marking pen or tailor’s chalk • Don’t use notches because stitching with a serger removes them