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Chapter 10 Ocean Waves Part 3

Chapter 10 Ocean Waves Part 3. ftp://ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu/opl/tommy/Geog3afall2009/. What is the warmest temperature ever recorded in Santa Barbara?. What is the warmest temperature recorded in Santa Barbara? 133 0 F or 56 0 C June 17, 1859, the greatest temperature

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Chapter 10 Ocean Waves Part 3

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  1. Chapter 10 Ocean Waves Part 3 ftp://ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu/opl/tommy/Geog3afall2009/

  2. What is the warmest temperature ever recorded in Santa Barbara?

  3. What is the warmest temperature recorded in Santa Barbara? 133 0F or 56 0C June 17, 1859, the greatest temperature reported in the U.S. until 1913 Effects? Why so warm???

  4. Sundowner Winds H Coal Oil Point Sands Beach Campus Point

  5. Waves for surfers: a great way to review surface waves

  6. “… the ocean is adifferent play- ing field, and we don’t have home-court advantage.” “Wave riding sports have many more variables to deal with.” “… (ocean) water sports are at the mercy of one of the Earth’s most formidable forces: the power of the ocean.” “… we need to account for wind, tidal depth, hazards, water temp- eratures, and other fluctuations that Mother Nature is known to vary at her whim. All of these factors have a science unto themselves.” Intro, N. T. Cool For wave forcasts: www.wetsand.com

  7. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell?

  8. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch

  9. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch 3. Season (waves produced in NH or SH?)

  10. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch 3. Season (waves produced in NH or SH?) 4. Tides

  11. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch 3. Season (waves produced in NH or SH?) 4. Tides 5. Sea breeze effects (steepen or flatten local waves)

  12. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch 3. Season (waves produced in NH or SH?) 4. Tides 5. Sea breeze effects (steepen or flatten local waves) 6. Water depth or bathymetry (changes with sand movement, tides, and storm surge) and slope

  13. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch 3. Season (waves produced in NH or SH?) 4. Tides 5. Sea breeze effects (steepen or flatten local waves) 6. Water depth or bathymetry (changes with sand movement, tides, and storm surge) and slope 7. Coastal shape (points or bays)

  14. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch 3. Season (waves produced in NH or SH?) 4. Tides 5. Sea breeze effects (steepen or flatten local waves) 6. Water depth or bathymetry (changes with sand movement, tides, and storm surge) and slope 7. Coastal shape (points or bays) 8. Angle of impingement of waves on shoreline

  15. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch 3. Season (waves produced in NH or SH?) 4. Tides 5. Sea breeze effects (steepen or flatten local waves) 6. Water depth or bathymetry (changes with sand movement, tides, and storm surge) and slope 7. Coastal shape (points or bays) 8. Angle of impingement of waves on shoreline 9. Refraction, reflection, diffraction, shadowing

  16. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch 3. Season (waves produced in NH or SH?) 4. Tides 5. Sea breeze effects (steepen or flatten local waves) 6. Water depth or bathymetry (changes with sand movement, tides, and storm surge) and slope 7. Coastal shape (points or bays) 8. Angle of impingement of waves on shoreline 9. Refraction, reflection, diffraction, shadowing 10. Wave interference (constructive or destructive)

  17. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/how far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch 3. Season (waves produced in NH or SH?) 4. Tides 5. Sea breeze effects (steepen or flatten local waves) 6. Water depth or bathymetry (changes with sand movement, tides, and storm surge) and slope 7. Coastal shape (points or bays) 8. Angle of impingement of waves on shoreline 9. Refraction, reflection, diffraction, shadowing 10. Wave interference (constructive or destructive) 11. Current interaction with waves

  18. Development of a cutoff low: good for producing big surf From Surf Science

  19. Development of a major low (cyclogenesis): Good for producing big surf far away Surf Generation From Surf Science

  20. Hawaiian Winds and Swell Winter Summer

  21. From Surf Science

  22. Rip currents, beaches, and sand movements?

  23. Rip Currents What to do if you get caught in a rip current?

  24. Rip Currents What to do if you get caught in a rip current? Swim perpendicular to rip current.

  25. North Shore of OahuHawaii Rips

  26. Wave Breaks for Different Tidal Conditions Note that surf forecasts in Hawaii (and elsewhere?) measure wave heights of faces (fronts) of waves. These can be up to twice usual H values. From Surf Science

  27. Sea Breeze Effects on Surf Winds directed offshore Winds direct onshore From Surf Science

  28. Factors affecting wave shape Why is west coast of U.S. generally better for surfing than the east coast?

  29. Wave Climatology as Affected by Depressions North Swell South Swell From Surf Science

  30. Wave Climatology From Surf Science

  31. Wave Groups: Groupiness and Settiness Between storm center and coast, waves organize into groups or sets. Groups of waves travel at group velocity, which is ½ of individual phase velocity for “deep-water” waves. From Surf Science

  32. Wave Groups and Settiness Between storm center and coast, waves organize into groups or sets Groups of waves travel at group velocity, which is ½ of individual phase velocity for “deep-water” waves. From Surf Science

  33. What Factors Affect Surf? 1. Location and strength of storms/How far are you from source of waves? Windsea or groundswell? 2. Direction of winds and fetch (note: longer fetch gives longer period and bigger waves) 3. Season (waves produced in NH or SH?) 4. Tides 5. Sea breeze effects (steepen or flatten local waves) 6. Water depth or bathymetry (changes with sand movement, tides, and storm surge) and slope 7. Coastal shape (points or bays) 8. Angle of impingement of waves on shoreline 9. Refraction, reflection, diffraction 10. Wave interference (constructive or destructive) 11. Current interaction with waves 12. Wave steepness near shore (when to catch a wave)

  34. Wave monitoring and forecasts

  35. Excellent surf website: http://facs.scripps.edu/surf/

  36. NOAA Wave Forecasting Using Winds Wind barbs are superimposed on wave heights From Surf Science meters

  37. Wave Model Feet From Surf Science From Surf Science

  38. NOAA Wave Forecasting Note that longer period waves have moved out faster from the storm center. From Surf Science Seconds

  39. Wave ForecastsWhat canwe surmisefrom thesedata? Periods in seconds This website has lots of local surf info: wave heights, periods, directions

  40. WAMIII Feet

  41. Surf Tips: Be careful of rip currents. Avoid water after storms – waterborne bacteria and viruses. Sharks hang out around river inflow areas, especially after storms.

  42. Surf Tips: NOAA wave buoy data and wave model forecasts Look at weather maps Google http://wavecast.com/stateofsurf http:/www.surfline.com Wetsand.com VenturaCountyStar.com (wave webcam) http://facs.scripps.edu/surf/ http://cdip.ucsd.edu (Coastal Data Info Pgm) http://weather.unisys.com/gfsx/init/gfsx_500p_init_nhem.html http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu.html

  43. Some Surf Science Books Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing, Tony Butt and Paul Russell with Rick Grigg, University of Hawaii Press, Alison Hodge Publishers. Surf Forecasting by Nathan Todd Cool The Stormrider Guide, Low Pressure Publishing. [Series of books] Surfing California by Bank Wright The Next Wave: The World of Surfing, edited by Nick Carroll • http://facs.scripps.edu/surf/ • http://cdip.ucsd.edu • www.wetsand.com

  44. Energy from surface waves?

  45. Global coastal wave energy resources

  46. Ocean Power Technologies Project Location: Oahu, Hawaii (30 m)Status: PB-40 deployed June 2004, October 2005 and June 2007. Objective: Demonstrate Wave Power for use at US Navy bases, worldwideWave Park Size: Up to 1 MW http://www.oceanpowertechnologies.com/ (video available here)

  47. End Part 3 Waves

  48. Storm surge

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