Nobility

3. Nobility Very rich Owned tons of land Very well educated Served by others Expensive velvet, exotic silk, satin, lace Robes trimmed with ermine fur Clothes dyed with: bright red, purple

4. Gentry/Rich Merchants Rich Owned quite a bit of land Well educated Family coat of arms Did no manual labour Cotton, silk Clothing trimmed with fox or otter

5. Yeomen Sometimes wealthy Owned their own land Somewhat educated to read and write Worked with men of the gentry Fine quality wool, leather, linen

6. Tenant Farmers Poor Leased land from rich Not educated Labourers English cotton, coarse wool, linen Clothes dyed: yellow, orange, green, pale blue, pink, and ruset

7. Geometric shapes • Influenced clothes worn during this era • Padding, quilting, whalebone, and buckram were used to stiffen • Shapes used to put emphasis on the shoulders and hips

8. Materials • Velvets, satins, furs, silks, lace, cottons, and taffeta were commonly worn by Nobles and Upper classes • The brighter and richer the colours the higher the status appear to be • Peasants wore; yellow, orange, green, pale blue, pink, and russet

9. Statues of Apparel • Designed maintain class structure • Enforced by Queen Elizabeth I • Violation of this law lead to consequence • Ex. Robes trimmed with ermine were worn only by the Royal family

10. Under clothes Shirt Stocking or Hose Codpiece Girdle Over clothes Doublet Separate Sleeves Breeches Belt Ruff Cloak Shoes Hat Men

11. Men were not allowed to wear whatever they liked Rank and position could be identified by appearance Clothing Laws for Men

12. The Peacock Age

13. Men dressed more elaborately than women, in order to gain attention and success in court.

14. Due to clothing restrictions women were very ambitious, and pushed their husbands to gain higher ranking

15. Due to limitations of what individuals could wear, many began slashing their clothing The purpose of cutting into the outer layer of clothing was to expose the lining Slashing of Material

16. Collars • A ruffled collar was worn by many men and women • Used to frame the face • Lead to fairly short haircuts for men and a swept back look for women

17. Boys Baby-14yrs old Styles varied for each class Different outfits for separate occasions No specialized styles for children

18. Babies/Toddlers Swaddled from birth-12months Wore identical dresses Dressed in gowns, skirts, and doublets

19. Young 3-7 yrs old they were “breached” -depended on nurse/parents’ opinion They started wearing mini replicas of there fathers outfits -Celebrated with a party

20. Women’s Everyday wear • -hats (poorer women wore linen hats called coifs) richer women wore ostrich feathers on their hats • -near the end in the 1500s , bonnets became more fashionable as well

21. -wore a petticoat like garment called a smock with a dress underneath. Billowy sleeves were also common • -the dress made of 2 parts: bodice or corset and skirt. Low square cut bodices that were laced very tightly were fashionable in the 16th century • -toward the middle of the century the dress was redesigned so that a contrasting underskirt would be shown • -some women had their waist encircled with girdles from which they hung hollow balls of perfume and various trinkets • -Middle class women wore a short cloak called a damicaster as part of their ensemble • -nobility adorned their clothing with embroidery and jewels

22. -Fabrics were restricted to each class. For example the fur of the black jennet was for royalty only whereas rug, a coarse wool, was for the poorest peasants -laws were created outlining fabrics for each class so they’d be easily distinguishable from one another

23. Wedding dress timeline • 1500-1520 • -fitted bodices with a horizontal top • -long skirts • -head covered by fabric

24. 1521-1550 • -white scalloped belt was added around the wasit and the skirt began to fill out • -billow was added to the sleeves

25. 1551-1599 • -more richly decorated with embroidery • -high collars were added • -hoop skirts were becoming a popular undergarment

26. -however peasants were forbidden to wear jewels or rich fabrics • -often left to wear their everyday clothing, since they couldn’t afford a new dress

27. -Queen Elizabeth was a huge icon during this time period -woman strived to imitate her lily-white skin and red curly hair with bleaches and dyes Queen Elizabeth

28. Makeup • -women dyed their skin with egg whites and white lead • -reddened their lips with a dye called cochineal which was made from crushed beetles • -experimented with different dye recipes to imitate Elizabeth’s fiery red. Some even including urine

29. Skin Tone • -pale skin was fashionable • -sunburn meant you were poor and worked in the sun all day • -false hair and wigs were also fashionable because they were easy to manage

30. Children: Girls • Boys and girls were dressed alike, at least up until the age of 5 for girls and 8 for boys

31. Ruffs • Basically just a collar • Came in style in the late 1550’s • Worn by girls when they reached their teens • Younger girls wore neck and wrist frills

32. Dresses • Wore floor length gowns • Could have the bodice in different colours • Often had detachable sleeves • Usually decorated with ruffs

34. Kirtles • Worn by older girls • Just an underskirt • Over-skirt of gown was open in the front in an upside-down V shape • Revealed the kirtle which often matched the sleeves

36. Outdoor Wardrobe • Cassocks and mantles were worn as jackets • Cassock: loose fitting coat with buttons down front • Mantle: Long, fastened with cords. For formal occasions

37. Headware • Coifs worn indoors by younger girls • Tight hat • Made of silk thread with gold ornamentation • Lined in coloured silk

38. Hairstlyes • Hair was allowed to hang loose • Bound with hair ties or laces • Put up in a chignon

39. Accesories • Showed what class girls were in • Light colours were popular • Had petticoats beneath skirts