“Enabling developing countries to seize eco-labelling opportunities” Presented by Zubeida Zwavel

1. “Enabling developing countries to seize eco-labelling opportunities” Presented by ZubeidaZwavel

2. Project rationale • Need to promote the mutual supportiveness of trade, environment and development • Eco-labels: voluntary, market-based instruments based on environmental impacts of products throughout their life-cycle that promote resource efficiency of industrial processes while addressing consumption problems. Need to enhance their effectiveness as market instrument • Need to enhance access of environmentally efficient products from developing countries to regional, European and global markets

3. Objective 1: Increase number of export products from target countries awarded with a type 1 eco-label through capacity building and technical assistance Objective 2: Develop a roadmap towards greater cooperation and mutual recognition of eco-labelling schemes co-funded by the EuropeAid of the European Commission and the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (Germany)

4. Products groups and the EU eco-label Products groups and the EU eco-label

5. Project Implementation Process 1. Background and Assessment 2. Capacity Building 3. Technical Assistance 5. Conclusion, dissemination and bases for project replication activities 4. Cooperation among eco-labelling schemes

6. Results achieved so far: • Higher awareness and engagement both among private sector and governments • Policy integration • 25 experts trained • 15 training workshops around the world with around 400 participants • Training material and E-learning course developed • 11 companies (5 from Africa) applying for the EU Eco-label. One paper company in Brazil already obtained it. • One regional cooperation in eco-labelling initiated in Southern Cone countries of Latin America and polity integration with SPP

7. South African Experience- Progress • 2007 Start-up workshop in Bonn – Paper presented for assessing eco-labelling diffusion, market penetration possibilities, and related policy frameworks • 2008 Follow Up workshop in South Africa • 2009 Training the Trainers workshop • Technical Assistance - Three (3) companies participating and applying for the EU Eco-label

8. South African Experience - Challenges • Collation of data by companies pertaining to application documentation • Testing capabilities and infrastructure • Slow process of communication/feedback from Competent Bodies • Alternative sustainable fabric sources locally

9. South African Experience - Opportunities • Potential replication model for other sectors • National expertise for further knowledge transfer opportunities • Establishment of a National Eco-labelling Scheme • Eco-labelling leverage through RECP interventions for interested companies • Stimulation of Green Procurement • The accredited laboratory

10. Kenya Experience- Progress • Training Workshops. • Regional workshop on eco-labelling 17-18th September 2008, 46 participants • Shoe designers and tanners training workshop held on 7 - 8 April, 2010.A total of 35 stakeholders where trained • Stakeholder’s technical assistance to obtain an eco-label: 9 selected key stakeholders was held on the 14th Sept.

11. Kenya Experience - Challenges • proposed institutional arrangement for obtaining an eco-label for the shoe product in Kenya was not in line with the project expected results and would not bring long-term sustainability due to the lack of ‘infrastructure’ for uptake of eco-labeling. • Apart from Bata Shoe Co. that was suitable but unwilling to participate, no single tannery was found to be processing leather up to shoe production at the time

12. Kenya Experience - Challenges • In view of the above, project partners decided to concentrate the remaining time and funds on assisting the government establish a roadmap towards the revival of the leather cluster. • The government in 2010 established the Leather Development Council (LDC) under the National Economic and Social Council with the direct patronage of the Kenyan President, demonstrating the level of attention this issue is getting at the policy level

13. Experience in Ethiopia • We joined the project later through the invitation of our colleagues in Kenyan NCPC • Ethiopia has a dynamic footwear industry with many companies exporting finished products to Europe and North America • The project: an opportunity • to increase competitiveness and • raise the profile of the industry through companies exporting under their own brands

14. Project in Ethiopia • Ethiopian NCPC joined the national consultation workshop in Kenya in 2008 • Ethiopian expert attended the global training of trainers workshop in Bonn, 2009 • The national training workshop on 12 -13 April, 2010 in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. Trainers from Kenyan NCPC also participated

15. Status • Fact finding visits to 3 factories • an EU expert in footwear, EU ecolabel assisted in visits. He developed action plan for each company • 2 companies selected due to their technical potential and management commitment • Anbessa shoe factory, • TikurAbay shoe factory

16. Challengesand opportunities • LIDI has an ISO accredited laboratory, which provides more affordable testing services • COD in wastewater at the tannery is above the required level of the EU eco-label but in compliance with the national standards • We hope to have one company getting the EU eco-label for their shoe product!