1 / 18

New active for oily skin care – zinc octanoylsalicylate

New active for oily skin care – zinc octanoylsalicylate. Marta Klimczyk MD Katarzyna Pytkowska MD Eng. Jacek Arct PhD Eng. Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland Medical University of Lodz, Clinic of Dermatology and Children’s Dermatology , Poland. anti-inflammatory.

mahlah
Download Presentation

New active for oily skin care – zinc octanoylsalicylate

An Image/Link below is provided (as is) to download presentation Download Policy: Content on the Website is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use and may not be sold / licensed / shared on other websites without getting consent from its author. Content is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use only. Download presentation by click this link. While downloading, if for some reason you are not able to download a presentation, the publisher may have deleted the file from their server. During download, if you can't get a presentation, the file might be deleted by the publisher.

E N D

Presentation Transcript

  1. New active for oily skin care – zinc octanoylsalicylate Marta Klimczyk MD Katarzyna Pytkowska MD Eng. Jacek Arct PhD Eng. Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland Medical University of Lodz, Clinic of Dermatology and Children’s Dermatology, Poland

  2. anti-inflammatory antibacterial sebostatic keratolytic Source: e-infopages.com

  3. keratolytic The target: pilosebaceous unit anti-inflammatory antibacterial sebostatic

  4. Zinc and the skin • 6% of the body zinc is locatedin the skin • Mostlyin the epidermis (appr. 60 mg/g d.c.) • The concentration of Zn in the skin decreases with age • Complex multi-effects • Antimicrobial • Regulation of keratinizationand fibroblastsfunctions • Inhibition of sebumsecretion • Anti-inflammatory • Protects against free radicals • Regulation of melanogenesis

  5. Zinc and the sebaceous gland • Dihydrotestosterone stimulates the sebaceous glands activity • Dihydrotestosterone is formed from testosterone by 5-α-reductase • Zinc inhibits 5-α-reductase activity • Zn prevents inflammations, indirectly hampers secretion of sebum • Inhibition of triglyceride hydrolysing microorganisms growth including Propionibacterium acnes • Zn inhibits also bacterial lipases activity

  6. Zinc and fatty acids profile • Zinc is required for the normalactivity of - 5 and  - 6 desaturases • Both enzymes play an important role in the synthesis and metabolism of fatty acids in the mammary sebaceous gland • Zinc affects the sebum fatty acid profile and liquidity of triglycerides and bacterially-released fatty acids and its salts

  7. Cosmetics effects of LMW hydroxyacids activity • Direct effect • Brighter, smoother skin (because we remove the excess cells of the stratum corneum) • The indirect effect no. 1 • Improved color, reduced hyperpigmentation (accelerated recovery, the epidermis becomes "younger") • The indirect effect no. 2 • Accelerated recovery accelerates the epidermal barrier renewal • The indirect effect no. 3 • „Unplugging" of the hair follicles (less problems with the formation of blackheads)

  8. Lipophilic hydroxyacid: the octanoylsalicylic acid (LHA) • LHA acts similar to the salicylic acid (SA) but: • Is more lipophilic • has another dynamic penetration into the stratum corneum • LHA accelerates exfoliation andepidermal renewal, improves the condition of the epidermal barrier and general skin condition • Is a stronger keratolytic agent than than SA, influences desmosomes (desmolysis) • Exfoliation is less aggresive than with classical AHA’s • It strongly disperses the melanin clusters in the viable epidermis • Used at concentrations lower than SA • Activity takes longer than in the case of SA

  9. keratolytic LHA anti-inflammatory antibacterial Zn We have investigated the potential of cosmetic application of a new cosmetic raw material: zinc octanoylsalicylate (ZnLHA salt) Zn sebostatic Zn LHA ?

  10. The study • We have checked the influence on the • sebaceous gland activity: sebum level decrease (sebumetric assessment) • skin moisturization (corneometric assessment) • epidermal barrier condition (tewametric assessment) • as well as general condition of oily skin (consumer evaluation)

  11. The study • 16 healthy volunteers • Age: 21-30 y. • Oily skin: initial sebum level 130-240 a.u. (sebumetric ass.) • Acne level: 1-2 (no severe inflammations) • Moderate to very good general cosmetic knowledge • 6 week study, daily application of 1% ZnLHA salt emulsion (twice a day) • All measurements conducted 12h after the application, standarized humidity and temperature conditions

  12. Evaluationresults

  13. Prolonged effect Start of the treatment Last application of the active

  14. Slight improvement of moisturization and barrier condition with prolonged effect … but we had well educated volunteers with very good initial skin moisture level and barrier condition

  15. Selfassessment: skin condition Scoring: -2: extremely bad -1: bad 0: neutral 1: good 2: very good

  16. Selfassessment: safety and comfort Scoring: -2: extremely high -1: high 0: neutral 1: moderate 2: none

  17. Evaluation results • The compound • exhibits goodsebostatic activitywith prolonged effect (as assessed one week after last application) • improves the barrier condition • was highly scored in consumer subjective self-evaluation • It could be used in wide range of cosmetics intended for young, oily complexion • Cosmetic use of ZnLHA is a subject of patent application

  18. Thankyou for yourattention!

More Related