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Madame Vionnet. Janelle Boiser Spring 2012. An Architect Among Dressmakers. Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975). Background. Dressmaker’s apprenticeship 1900 Callot Soeur 1907 House of Doucet 1912 opened Vionnet. Design Characteristics. Classical influences Bias cut, “coup en bias”
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Madame Vionnet Janelle Boiser Spring 2012
An Architect Among Dressmakers Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975)
Background • Dressmaker’s apprenticeship • 1900 Callot Soeur • 1907 House of Doucet • 1912 opened Vionnet
Design Characteristics • Classical influences • Bias cut, “coup en bias” • Emphasize natural curves Madeleine Vionnet, c. 1933 Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art
Evening Dressearly 1920s • Silk, metallic thread, net • Bias cut underdress • Bodice draping Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art
Dress1926-27 • Silk • Bias-cut • Intersecting pin-tuck design Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art
Dress1927 • Silk • Slim “flapper” silhouette • Intricate pleating Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art
Wedding Ensemble1929 • Silk velvet • Bias cut • Irregular panel shapes • With train: 256” long Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art
Evening Dress1932 • Silk • Bias cut • Geometric panels • Gored skirt Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art
Evening Dress1936 • Silk, metal • Bias cut • Halter • Low cut back Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art
Evening DressSpring/Summer 1938 • Rayon • Silk fringe • Slim silhouette • Bias-cut Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art
Legacy • Innovation • Experimentation • Modernity
References • Arnold, Rebecca. "Vionnet, Madeleine." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 13 Apr. 2012. <http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com.prozy.palomar.edu/view/bazf/bazf00620.xml>. • "Madeleine Vionnet | Vionnet." Vionnet. Web. 13 Apr. 2012. <http://www.vionnet.com/about/madeleine-vionnet>. • Quick, Harriet. "Vionnet Exhibition Opens in Paris." Telegraph. 24 June 2009. Web. 13 Apr. 2012. <http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG5614830/Vionnet-exhibition-opens-in-Paris.html>. • Dress images from http://www.metmuseum.org