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Different colours-the same meanings Hungarian folklore. Its main functions : Protect our body Decorate Emphasize social rank. Clothing at all. „ Dress code ”: written rules about where and what to wear depending on occassion and status since the 16th century
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Differentcolours-thesamemeanings Hungarianfolklore
Its main functions: • Protectour body • Decorate • Emphasizesocialrank Clothingatall
„Dresscode”: writtenrulesaboutwhere and whattoweardependingonoccassionand status sincethe 16th century • Duringthe 16the, the 17th and the 18th centurysimilaritiesondifferentlevels. Theselevels: • Villeins/peasantry • Craftsmen/civilians • Nobles/landowners • The 18th and 19th centurybrought more colours and a widerange of materials. Clothingbecame more „civilian” • The 20th centuryusedcheapbasicwithrichembroidering History
The earliestexpression of peaseantculture and art • Two main types of clothes: • Forweekdays • Forspecialoccassions (goingtochurch, wedding, funeral etc.) • Basicly made of handmadematerialslike • Linen • Woollencloth • Sheepskin, leather Traditionalclothes
Smallerorbiggerregionshavecertainruleshow and whattoputon. Theyaredifferentinpatterns and coloursbutserveasidentification. Therearefour main regions and severalsubregionsinHungarianfolklore: Northern (felvidéki), Western (dunántúli), Eastern (alföldi) and Transylvanian Traditionalclothes
Made of linen: • Shirts (ing) • Culottes (gatya) • Trousers (nadrág) • Long shirts(pendely) • Skirts (szoknya) • Aprons (kötény) Items of clothing
Made of woollencloth: • Coat (szűr) • Jerkin (zeke) • Frieze (daróc) Items of clothing
Made of sheepskinand/orleather: • Kacagány (shortjacket) • Mellény (waistcoat) • Ködmön (shortjacket) • Suba (sheepskin) • Bunda (fur-coat) Items of clothing
Hats, scarves, shawls, bonnets, head-dresses Items of clothing
4-10 shortskirts +a shirt +abodice +ashawl • 1-2 longskirts + a closedshirt +a colourfulbodice • more civilianfeatures: Industrial made textiles, tailor-madeclothes, silver and/orgoldenlaces, ribbonsandvelvetbonnets • 1-2 longskirts + a shirt + ashortjacket 3 ways of dressingforwomen
Traditionaldressing = a system of signs Ifyouknowthesigns, youcandecode almost everythingabouttheperson: where he/she is from, his/her status, age, job, rank, financialsituation, theoccassion he/shedressedfor. Forwomen’sclothesare more colourful, letusdecodesomecolours: Black – a woman of advancedage /Thiscolour has notbeenthesign of mourning, onlyinthelastfewdecades/ Dressingforexpressing
Purple, darkblue, green, brown: • A womanintheprime of her life • White, red, gold: • A womaninheryouth (upto 35-40 years) • HOWEVER, • A womanmournsforherbelovedonesinheryoungage, shecannotwearbrightcoloursanymore. • A woman has a youngerhusband,shecanweara bit brightercoloursthanherage. Dressingforexpressing
Unmarried, youngwomencouldwearseveralbeautifulhead-dresses. • A freshlymarriedyoungwoman had the most decorated bonnet. • A marriedwomanwithchildrencouldchangeher bonnet from 4 to 10 times, dependingonherchildren’s status. • A man’s hat wasdecorateddependingonhisage and status. A bridegroom’s hat was almost the most decorated, but a freshlyrecruited/servedthearmywasalsoverywelldecoratedonhis hat. Marital status, familyevents
The most beautifulbestclothes of winter/summerwereshownonthefirstdayofChristmas /Easter. • The most colourfulbestclothes of winter/summerwereshownontheseconddayofChristmas/Easter. „Onthecatwalk”