LAUNDRY

1. LAUNDRY

2. THE WORK OF THE FAMILY... A household chore is a specific piece of work required to be done as a duty or for a specific fee, related to or used in the running of a household. Indoor household chores include cooking; setting the table and washing dishes; cleaning such as sweeping, vacuuming, dusting, and mopping; child and elder care; paying bills; and laundry. While at one point in history household chores performed by members of the household were not considered “of value”, today economists include household chores as a vital part of the economy and society. The decision to pay others outside the household for these services, will be an expensive one. Today, the laundry chores of the household are generally considered the “work of the family”. Children and adults can share in this responsibility.

3. LAUNDRY CARE SYMBOLS... Laundry symbols, also called care symbols, are pictograms which represent different methods of washing, drying, dry-cleaning and ironing clothing. They are written on labels attached to clothing, to indicate how a particular item should best be cleaned. There are different standards for care labels for the different countries/regions of the world. The United States has its’ own care symbol, often accompanied by written instructions… Iron, High Regular ironing, steam or dry, may be performed at High setting (200C, 290F). Machine Wash, Normal Garment may be laundered through the use of hottest available water, detergent or soap, agitation, and a machine designed for this purpose. Hand Wash Garment may be laundered through the use of water, detergent or soap and gentle hand manipulation.

4. 3 FORMS OF ENERGY... Successful laundering requires three forms of energy in the right balance to remove soil from fabrics. Mechanical energy supplied by the machine’s washing action. Thermal energy supplied by hot or warm water. Chemical energy supplied by the detergent and other laundry additives. As energy is reduced in any one of the three energy forms, another energy input must be increased. This is necessary to restore a balance to the total washing system in order to achieve the same level of laundering performance. If you lower the temperature…you must increase the agitation or the chemicals.

5. Hot Water Usually, the hotter the water, the cleaner and more germ-free the clothing will be. It tends to make some clothing shrink, wrinkle, and fade. 130 degrees Fahrenheit or above. THERMAL ENERGY... Warm Water It allows good cleaning action without as much fading, wrinkling, and shrinking. 90 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a candy thermometer to check the temperature of the cold, warm, and hot water coming into your machine. Cold Water More energy efficient; preferred for final rinse; heavily soiled items may need to be pre-treated or soaked, or washed for a longer period of time. 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Water below 60 degrees does not clean well. Cold water does not fade brights; cuts down on sudsing.

6. Chemical energy is provided by one or more laundry additives. CHEMICAL ENERGY... In Ancient Roman times, human urine was used for laundry. The urine was a source of ammonium salts, and assisted in cleansing cloth. Slaves assigned to clean and thicken cloth, called “fullers”, would stand ankle deep in tubs of urine and cloth. Urine, also known as “wash”, was so important to the fulling business that it was taxed. By the medieval period (end of the 7th century), fuller’s earth had been introduced. This is a naturally-occurring soft clay-like mineral substance occurring in nature as an impure hydrous aluminum silicate. It could decolorize, filter, and purify oils and greases. This was used alone or in conjunction with the urine “wash”.

7. CHEMICAL ENERGY... Soap Soap for laundering has existed for centuries. The basic raw materials are fats/oils (tallow or coconut) and alkali (sodium or potassium hydroxide found in plant ashes). Commercial soap-making in the colonies was not introduced until 1608. Soaps have one major drawback. They combine with the minerals in hard water to form a lime soap or soap curd (a sticky white or yellow residue that deposits on the washer and the fabrics in the wash load). There are two types of soaps used for laundering: • Powders are mild, and especially suited for lightly soiled items and baby clothes. • Soap Bars are generally made from tallow or a combination of tallow and cocoa (coconut oil). Borax and builders, such as sodium silicate and sodium carbonate, are included to improve performance and help soften water. A laundry or hand soap bar is good for pretreating heavy soils and stains prior to laundering, or for handwashing delicates.

8. CHEMICAL ENERGY... Detergent The first household detergents were not manufactured until 1930. Detergents have essentially replaced soap for laundering, because they perform over a broad range of water hardness levels. Considerable diversity of ingredients exists among laundry detergents. Common Ingredients: Surfactants - decrease surface tension of water, making the water “wetter”; loosens soil Sodium Carbonate or Bicarbonate – neutralizes acidity and maintains pH levels Builders – decrease water hardness, enhancing surfactant’s ability Borax – a mineral that boosts cleaning Anti-re-deposition Agents – keeps loosened dirt from reattaching to clean fabrics Fragrance, Colorants, Bleaches Enzymes – for protein-based stains Fillers – anti-foaming agents or corrosion inhibitors Solvents – in liquid detergents to blend additives Fluorescent Whitening Agents – whitens and brightens

9. CHEMICAL ENERGY...Bleach • Bleach is a popular laundry aid and helps detergents remove soils and stains. Through oxidization, laundry bleaches convert soil into more soluble, colorless or dispersible particles that can be removed by detergent and carried away in the wash water. • The two general oxidizing types are: • sodium hypochlorite (also called chlorine or liquid household bleach) • 2. oxygen Sodium hypochlorite and oxygen bleaches should not be used together. The benefits of both are lost when combined. Color removers, considered reducing bleaches, are also products in the bleach category.

10. Chlorine Bleach Chlorine bleaches: 1) Oxidize soil and aids in its removal 2) Act as a disinfectant on both bacteria and viruses 3) Generally whiten fabrics For best results, dilute bleach with a quart (0.95 L) of water and add about 5 minutes after the wash cycle has begun. Applying undiluted bleach directly to fabrics may result in color removal and/or weakening of the fabric. Adding bleach at the beginning of the wash cycle with the detergent destroys some detergent ingredients (FWAs, enzymes). This reduces the effectiveness of both detergent and bleach. For washers with dispensers where bleach is automatically dispensed and diluted, follow the manufacturer's instructions. The bleaching action of sodium hypochlorite is essentially completed in about 5 minutes, even less time in hot water, but slightly longer in cold. Sodium hypochlorite bleach can be used on all washable,colorfast natural fibers (cotton, linen) except protein fibers like wool, silk and mohair. It is also safe on all washable synthetic and permanent press fabrics, except spandex.

11. Oxygen Bleach Oxygen bleaches are available in both a dry and liquid form, and are suitable for all fabrics. The hydrogen peroxide in or created by these bleaches reacts with the soil and organic materials in the wash to either decolorize or break them up. Hydrogen peroxide provides a more gentle bleaching action than sodium hypochlorite used in chlorine bleaches, but does not disinfect. Water temperature affects the bleaching rate of oxygen bleaches. Hot water accelerates the bleaching action. As water temperature decreases below 130 degrees F, exposure time must be increased substantially. Powdered oxygen bleaches also contain builders, surfactants, brighteners, bluing agents, fragrance, and enzymes. How to Use Oxygen Bleach: Add oxygen bleach to the wash water before clothes are added. Do not pour oxygen bleaches directly on wet colored fabrics without testing for colorfastness first.

12. Color removers, available as a packaged product, contain sodium hydrosulfite, sodium carbonate and sodium metasilicate. They have the ability to remove most colors, but some dyes, especially prints, cannot be removed. In most cases, color will be reduced or removed enough to permit re-dyeing to another color. Color removers also help to whiten dingy colors, to remove brown (rust) stains from clothes washed in water that contains iron and manganese, and to remove transferred dye stains from whites washed with colored items. Color Remover Some forms, especially cloth-types that can be added to the wash load, may help absorb dyes from the wash water so they don’t redeposit on other clothes.

13. CHEMICAL ENERGY...Bluing Laundry bluing, available in liquid form, contains a blue pigment… usually ultramarine blue. The bluing should be diluted with water prior to being added to the washer at the start of the wash or in the final rinse. They are designed to counteract the natural yellowing of many fabrics. A trace of blue in the wash will enhance white and light-colored articles, making them appear whiter and brighter.

14. CHEMICAL ENERGY...Detergent Boosters Boosters are laundry additives that condition water to make detergent work more effectively. Boosters are used in combination with a laundry detergent to get clothes clean. Boosters are particularly effective for use with hard water. Boosters, available in powder or liquid form, are designed to reinforce specific performance characteristics desirable in laundering. They should be used in the wash in addition to the recommended amount of detergent. Liquid boosters can also be used for pre-treating stains. Typical ingredients used in boosters are: surfactants, builders, borax, enzymes, corrosion inhibitors and fluorescent brighteners.

15. CHEMICAL ENERGY...Disinfectants Disinfectants, available in liquid form, are occasionally used as laundry additives. These products contain germicides, usually selected from the group including pine oil, phenolics and coal tar derivatives. Disinfectants are used to kill germs in the laundry. It is a good idea to use a disinfectant when someone in your family is sick, you use a laundromat, or clothes have become contaminated from sewage waste (for example, flood-soiled clothing). There are many disinfectants on the market. Liquid chlorine bleach is the most accessible, least expensive, and easiest to use. To sanitize clothing, add two tablespoons of liquid chlorine bleach per washer load. Under normal conditions disinfectants are not needed in a wash because other disinfectant factors may be present, such as hot water, detergent, heat from the dryer and/or outdoor sunshine.

16. CHEMICAL ENERGY...Enzyme Presoaks Enzyme presoak products originated in the 1960s, and are used for soaking the laundry prior to washing to remove many difficult stains and soils, especially the protein-based ones (e.g., egg, blood, grass, etc.). They can also be used as a booster in the wash in addition to the recommended amount of detergent. These powder products contain combinations of enzymes, builders, surfactants, fluorescent brighteners, bluing agents, fragrance and/or possibly an oxygen bleach.

17. Fabric softeners, introduced in the 1950s, impart softness and/or fluffiness to washable fabrics. They also make fabrics feel smooth, decrease static cling, impart a pleasing fragrance, reduce drying time, reduce wrinkling and make ironing easier. Used as directed, they are safe for all washable fabrics. CHEMICAL ENERGY...Fabric Softeners Rinse-added Fabric Softeners must be used in the final rinse of the washer cycle to avoid adverse interactions with detergents or other laundry additives. All rinse-added fabric softeners should be diluted and added directly to the rinse water or automatic softener dispenser. Avoid pouring fabric softener directly on fabrics as staining can occur. Dryer-added fabric softeners are designed to be added to a load of clothes in the dryer. With the sheet-type, fabric softener ingredients are carried on a nonwoven sheet of synthetic fabric or a polyurethane foam. A packet-type fabric softener is attached to a fin of the dryer drum. As the clothes tumble, the heat of the dryer helps to transfer the softener to the clothes.

18. CHEMICAL ENERGY...Prewash Soil & Stain Removers Pre-wash soil and stain removers are products used to pre-treat heavily soiled and stained areas. Their performance on Oil-Based stains on polyester fibers is particularly effective. Pre-wash stain removers are available in pump spray, liquid, gel, stick or aerosol forms. They may contain surfactants and hydrotropes. Aerosols may contain solvents, such as petroleum distillates. The solvents penetrate the fibers and help break up/dissolve the grease and oil stains, while the surfactant helps disperse the solvent/grease mixture during the wash.

19. CHEMICAL ENERGY...Starches, Fabric Finishes, Sizings These products add a finishing touch to the laundering process. They supply body to fabrics, enhance soil resistance, facilitate soil removal in the next wash and make ironing easier. Fabric finishes and sizings, available in spray form, are formulated especially for synthetic fabrics or blended fabrics with a high synthetic content. Silicones may also be present for ease in ironing to reduce sole plate build up. Borax may be added to reduce scorching. Starch, available in dry, liquid or spray forms, is most effective on cotton or cotton-blend fabrics. The dry and liquid types, requiring mixing with either hot or cold water, can be used in the washer for large starching jobs or used in a basin for a few articles. The spray types are convenient for use when ironing or for quick touch up pressing on collars, cuffs and trims.

20. CHEMICAL ENERGY...Water Softeners The primary function of a water softener is to soften water, although it also provides alkalinity, which enhances detergent cleaning. Packaged Water Softenerssoften water by removing or inactivating calcium and magnesium ions present in hard water. Choose a non-precipitating variety, as the precipitating form clouds the water and can cling to fabrics or washer parts, leaving a chalky deposit. directions. Mechanical Water Softenersare an effective and practical solution in areas where water is very hard. This equipment, installed in the home, utilizes ion exchange resins to remove calcium and magnesium hardness ions. This is accomplished by exchanging calcium and magnesium for sodium ions from the ion exchange resins.

21. MECHANICAL ENERGY... Laundry was probably first done in streams and letting the stream carry away the materials causing stains and smells, or in water-tight vats or large, metal cauldrons that could be heated. Laundry may still be done this way in some less industrialized areas and rural regions. Agitation helps remove the dirt, so the laundry is often rubbed, twisted, or slapped against flat rocks. Wooden bats or clubs could be used to help with beating the dirt out. These were called washing beetles. Washboards were eventually used also, as a rough surface to loosen soil. Once clean, the clothes were wrung out — twisted to remove most of the water. Then they were hung up on poles or clotheslines to dry, or sometimes just spread out on clean grass.

22. MECHANICAL ENERGY... the Washing Machine The Industrial Revolution completely transformed laundry technology with “washing machines”. This term was applied only to machines that use water as the primary cleaning solution, as opposed to dry cleaning (which uses alternative cleaning fluids, and is generally performed by specialist businesses) or even ultrasonic cleaners. First came the mangle or wringer in the 18th century — two long rollers in a frame and a crank to revolve them. Sopping wet clothing was washed in a tub and cranked through the mangle, compressing the cloth and expelling the excess water. In the early 20th century inventors further mechanized the laundry process with various gas and electric powered washing machines. The newer machines agitated, had spin cycles, and powered wringers.

23. MECHANICAL ENERGY... the Top-loading Washing Machine Modern washing machines are available in two main configurations: top loading and front loading. The top loading design places the clothes in a vertically-mounted perforated basket that is contained within a water-retaining tub, with a propeller-like agitator in the center of the bottom of the basket. Clothes are loaded through the top of the machine, which is covered with a hinged door. During the wash cycle, the agitator moves the clothing back and forth (oscillating action) or up and down (this vertical reciprocating action causes more tangling of clothing). It uses approximately 17 gallons of water per load. Because they usually incorporate a gearbox, clutch, crank, etc, top loading washers are mechanically more complex than front loading machines but are generally lower maintenance since there is no need for a complex door seal. Top-loaders are not well-suited to cleaning large objects such as pillows or sleeping bags due to the tendency for them to just float on the surface of the water without circulating, and the aggressive agitator action can damage delicate fabrics.

24. MECHANICAL ENERGY... the Front-loading Washing Machine Horizontal-axis Washing Machines (HWMs), or those with a front loading design, mounts the inner basket and outer tub horizontally, and loading is through a glass door at the front of the machine. Any agitation is supplied by the rotation of the cylinder and by gravity. The clothes are lifted up by paddles on the inside wall of the drum and then dropped. This tumbling action flexes the weave of the fabric and forces water and detergent solution through the clothes load. Less water 4-8 gallons per load Less detergent or other additives. Less wear on clothes due to tumbling rather than agitation More space-saving designs (stacking and under-the-counter) Front loading washers are mechanically simple compared to top-loaders, with only a pulley wheel instead of a gearbox, clutch or crank. However, a front-loader must tightly seal the door shut with a gasket or bellows to prevent dripping water onto the floor during the wash cycle. This access door is locked shut during the entire wash cycle.

25. MECHANICAL ENERGY... the Washing Machine Features Tub Linings that are stainless-steel are best, as they don’t rust and can withstand higher spin speeds that in turn will speed drying. Dials or Touchpad Controls should be legible, easy to push or turn, and logically arranged. Touchpad controls tend to be more versatile; for instance, you may be able to save favorite settings or custom program the menu. Lights or signals indicate the end of a cycle. Automatic door locks prevent children from opening the lid or water spillage Water levels are set automatically on front-loaders, and have three or more levels on top-loaders Automatic Temperature Control adjusts the flow for the correct wash temperature, mixing hot and cold water in correct proportions. This feature is useful if your incoming water is very cold or if your washer is a long way from the water heater. Extra Rinse features can help those sensitive to detergent residue Extended Spin allows for more water to be removed from laundry Time-Delay feature lets you program the washer to start at a later time, such as at night, when your utility rates are low. Automatic Dispensers for bleach, detergent, and fabric-softener release powder or liquid at the appropriate time in the cycle. Bleach dispensers also prevent spattering.

26. STEPS IN DOING LAUNDRY... 1. Check clothing tags. Read the tags thoroughly to determine how the clothes should be washed dried and ironed. Most items will have mainly normal washing instructions. You might be surprised though that you have items that are meant to be hand washed or not dried in the drier. 2. Turn clothing right side out. Make sure none of the legs of your pants, or arms of your shirts are stuck in the garment improperly. Clasp latches of overalls; fasten bras, tie hood cords. If you had any clothing tags that instructed you to wash the clothing inside out, make sure you remembered to do so. 3. Check all pockets. One facial tissue or tube of lipstick can cause many problems.

27. STEPS IN DOING LAUNDRY... 4. Check for sewing repairs. Make sure there aren’t any loose threads, rips, button repairs, or other sewing repairs. If you find any, repair them before you wash the clothes. Washing them with problems will only make the problems bigger. 5. Check for stains. They will need to be pretreated or presoaked before washing and drying. The presoak time should be at least 30 minutes. If you dry a stain with heat, it will usually make it permanent.

28. STEPS IN DOING LAUNDRY... 6. Sort the clothing. Whites- Whites go separate because we want them to stay white. More often than not whites need a warmer water temperature than other clothing to ensure proper cleaning. Reds and/or Bright Colors- Colorfast pinks, purples, reds, and oranges can be mixed together to make a full load. Warning, red clothing is notorious for losing its color and bleeding onto other fabrics. When in doubt wash reds separately. Lint producers - Towels are lint producers. The lint they give off sticks to other types of clothing. You can wash towels with blankets, sheets, and robes as long as everything is colorfast. Specialty Items- These are things that have to be washed separately, are not colorfast, can’t be dried, or have otherwise special instructions that keep them separate. Darks – Jeans, hosiery, and other dark or bright colors that may bleed Delicates – lingerie, smooth knits, and blouses may need delicate agitation Lights – colored, but don’t “bleed”(dyes come out into the water or fade)

29. STEPS IN DOING LAUNDRY... 7. Set the Water Temperature. Set the temperature according to colors of clothing, soil level on clothing, and type of fabrics. A cold rinse is adequate for all loads, saves energy and is preferred for permanent press fabrics to reduce wrinkling. 8. Set the Water Level, if needed 9. Add appropriate laundry additives. The amount necessary for good soil removal will vary with the load size, soil conditions, hardness of water and the water volume of the washer. Follow package directions. Slightly smaller amounts can be used in softened water or for lightly soiled loads. 10. Load the Washer Remember that bulk counts more than weight. Fill the tub loosely so that clothes have room to move freely, and mix items of different sizes. Don't wind large items around the agitator or the tub; they will become tangled.

30. STEPS IN DOING LAUNDRY... 11. Wash the Clothes. Set the wash action (normal; gentle) according to fabric type, clothing construction, and degree of soil. Regular spin speed removes most of the water and therefore shortens drying time. A slow or short spin should be used for permanent press garments to minimize wrinkling. 12. Dry the clothes. You may hang clothes indoors or outdoors to dry in the air, or use a machine. If using an automatic dryer, use care not to overload the dryer and restrict air flow. Dry similar items at the same time, with sturdy and heavy items needing a hotter temperature and longer drying period. A “gentle” or “permanent press” cycle on your dryer has a cool-down period at the end of the drying time that prevents wrinkling.

31. DRYING CLOTHES... in an Automatic Dryer A clothes dryer or tumble dryer is a major household appliance that is used to remove the residual moisture from a load of clothing and other textiles, generally shortly after they are cleaned in a washing machine. Most dryers consist of a rotating drum called a tumbler through which heat is circulated to evaporate the moisture from the load. The tumbler, often belt-driven, is rotated relatively slowly in order to maintain space between the articles in the load. Clothes dryers are either gas or electric… using either electricity or gas to heat the air, but both requiring electricity to rotate the drum. The automatic clothes dryer saves time and is not dependent on the weather, as line drying outdoors can be. If a cool-down cycle is used, and if clothing is removed and folded or hung immediately, it can eliminate wrinkles. Clothes dryers cause static electricity. The use of a fabric softener can help with this.

32. DRYING CLOTHES... in an Automatic Dryer The average dryer costs $85/year, when compared to other household appliances it is second in energy usage to the refrigerator. Energy Conservation Tips: Dry full loads, but don't overload. Separate lightweight and heavy clothes for more energy-efficient drying. Don't over-dry clothes.Clean the lint filter before drying each load. (this is also a fire safety issue) Dry two or more loads in a row to take advantage of the heat still in the dryer.Clean the machine. Periodically remove any buildup of lint and dust from the dryer exhaust, the back of the dryer and behind the lint screen.Periodically make sure the dryer's outside moisture exhaust is operating properly and lint-free. Be sure the dryer’s exhaust ducts are connected properly to the outside terminals, using the straightest and shortest duct possible, and are not blocked with lint. NEVER RUN A DRYER COMPLETELY UNATTENDED!

33. DRYING CLOTHES... Line Drying Outdoors A clothes line or washing line is any type of string, rope, cord, or twine that has been stretched between two points, generally outside, above the level of the ground. Clothing that has recently been washed is hung along the line to dry, using clothes pegs or clothespins. Washing lines may fall down due to the weather, the weight of the clothing, or being run into. While environmentally sound, in some places, zoning regulations may prohibit the use as clothes lines are sometimes associated with poverty or considered unaesthetic. A good breeze will eliminate wrinkles. Air-drying can give a fresh-air odor to clothing, and uses the sun as a disinfectant. Sunlight, however, can cause colors to fade so dry bright / deep dyed colors in the shade or where possible turn them inside out.

34. DRYING CLOTHES... Line Drying Indoors A drying rack is a device intended for hanging clothing to dry, similar in usage and function to the clothesline. Usually constructed from wood or metal, there are many types of drying racks, including large, stationary outdoor racks, smaller, folding portable racks, and wall mounted drying racks. A “clotheshorse”, also known as a winterdyke, refers to a frame upon which clothes are hung to dry. This is where we get the term “clothes horse”, when referring to people who like to own, display or wear lots of clothing. Air-drying eliminates static cling.Electric dryers produce static electricity by rubbing clothes over each other repeatedly. Air-dried clothes feel a bit stiff at first. Adding fabric softener in the wash adds softness and any desired scent.

35. DRYING CLOTHES... Line Drying Air-drying is easier on your clothes, causing less wear on seams and zippers and less heat stress on fabric. It's free! If you own a dryer, you're paying for electricity and repairs. Put heavy items near the ends of the line to reduce sagging of the line. Snap or shake an item briskly in the air and most of the wrinkles will disappear. Remove any remaining by pulling the item smooth after hanging it. Put hosiery and lingerie in a nylon-net bag in the washer and then hang them on the line. Hang shirts by the tails and socks by the toes so clothespin marks won't be visible. Hang jeans and towels folded over the line. Halfway through drying, turn them so they're folded the other way, and they'll dry all the way through. When hanging clothes outdoors, don't let them touch walls or posts, which may be dirty. Hang fitted sheets folded over the line with the pockets on the inside, so they don't catch leaves or other debris.

36. DRYING CLOTHES... Flat Drying A few clothing items may need to be dried while laying flat on a surface. The main purpose of flat drying is to prevent stretching/shrinking. Choose a surface that is absorbent to speed the drying. A screen or grid-type surface that allows air-flow underneath the item would be ideal. Shown here at the left is a newly-knit sweater. It has been blocked (stretched to specific measurements and shape), and is now laying flat to dry in that shape. Two disadvantages of flat drying are the amount of space it requires and the long length of time it takes to complete the drying process.

37. Ironing or smoothing is the work of using a heated tool to remove wrinkles from washed clothes. When the heated tool is moved back and forth, it is called ironing. When it is placed in a near-stationary position on the fabric, it is called pressing, and this may prevent any stretching of the fabric. The common tools for this purpose are called "irons", though modern designs are no longer made of iron. IRONING... Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material. While the molecules are hot, the fibers are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool. Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen the intermolecular bonds. Many modern synthetic (man-made) fabrics have special finishes applied that require little or no ironing. Ironing may also be used as a germ/parasite killing hygienic operation. Ergonomic note: Continuous manual ironing can be a cause of repetitive strain injury to the user's wrist.

38. IRONING... History Metal pans filled with hot charcoal were used for smoothing fabrics in China in the 1st century BC. Electrically-heated irons were first introduced in 1882. The hot plate, called the sole plate, is no longer made of iron but of aluminum or stainless steel, possibly coated with a non-stick surface. The heating element is controlled by a thermostat, switching the current on and off to maintain the selected temperature. Later, steam was used to iron clothing. The ironing board was invented in 1858, a small, portable, foldable table with a heat resistant top. . From the 17th century, sadirons (meaning solid) began to be used. They were thick slabs of cast iron, delta-shaped and with a handle, heated in a fire. These were also called flat irons. A later design consisted of an iron box which could be filled with hot coals, which had to be periodically aerated by attaching a bellows. This type, often called a charcoal iron or box iron, was on sale in the USA until at least 1902. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, there were many irons in use which were heated by liquid fuel such as kerosene or alcohol. Then to now…

39. Features available on modern irons include see-thru water reservoirs, and continuous or burst-of-steam buttons. Thermostats maintain constant temperature and can be set for a variety of fabrics such as wool, cotton, linen, etc. Automatic safety features shut the iron off if it is left in a flat position or left undisturbed for 10-15 minutes. Some irons can even be heated, and then used cordlessly for brief periods of time. Cord minders to keep the cord out of the way while ironing and “rests” for holding the iron in a vertical position when not in use are convenient. Some irons are self-cleaning and have an anti-drip system. IRONING... Safe ironing temperatures Acetate: 143 °C (290 °F) Acrylic: 135 °C (275 °F) Triacetate: 200 °C (390 °F) Cotton: 204 °C (400 °F) Linen: 230 °C (445 °F ) Lycra/Spandex: 135 °C (275 °F) Nylon: 135 °C (275 °F) Polyester: 148 °C (300 °F) Silk: 148 °C (300 °F) Viscose: 190 °C (375 °F) Wool: 148 °C (300 °F)

40. A laundromat is a facility where clothes are washed and dried. Laundromats which have staff to wash the clothing are sometimes referred to as fluff-n-fold or drop-off services. Minimal service centers may simply provide an attendant behind a counter to provide change, sell laundry detergents, and watch unattended machines for potential theft of clothing. LAUNDROMAT... The cleaning of clothing in a laundromat is usually done by the customer via self-service, coin- or card-operated washing machines and dryers, usually specialized ones designed to survive heavy use. Often, bill changers are available on site to facilitate the coin operation of the machines. In many laundromats, cleaning supplies such as detergent and bleach are sold from vending machines. Apartment buildings, motels, and dormitories often have common laundry rooms, where residents share washing machines and dryers, similar to laundromats.

41. FOLDING, HANGING, AND PUTTING AWAY LAUNDRY... The key to folding, hanging, and putting away laundry is an organized laundry area or room. Have a table, countertop, or even the top of the washer and dryer free from clutter for folding. Keep appropriate hangers and a hanging rack or closet near the dryer. Save steps by putting hanging items directly on hangers rather than folding and toting them first. As you fold clean laundry, place items in baskets by individual person to simplify the process of putting it all away. Organize closets and drawers, purging items never worn so there is ample room for storing those that are. Set a side a small drawer or basket for socks that have lost their mate in the wash. Sooner or later the other sock will turn up and the pair can be put away with all the others.

42. DRY CLEANING... Dry cleaning is any cleaning process for clothing and textiles using an organic solvent other than water — generally known as dry cleaning fluid, and typically this is tetrachloroethylene. Dry cleaning uses chemicals that will clean the surface of the fabric without penetrating into the fiber. The items are spot cleaned and then immersed in the solvent; then the solvent is extracted, taking the soil with it. Dry cleaning is necessary for cleaning items which would otherwise be damaged by water and soap or detergent. Wool, silk, rayon and acetate fabrics are at the top of the list. Also any fabrics trimmed in suede or leather or fur, any fabric with feathers, fancy beading, pearls, rhinestones or glittery/shiny decorations such as sequins and mirrors, and fine "designer" knit suits.

43. LAUNDRY The End