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Knitting Technology. Chapter 1 The Definition of knitting. 1.1 The Fabric Forming Method There are 3 kinds of fabric forming method, the weaving, the knitting and the non-woven. The weaving. By interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles into fabric
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Chapter 1 The Definition of knitting • 1.1 The Fabric Forming Method • There are 3 kinds of fabric forming method, the weaving, the knitting and the non-woven.
The weaving • By interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles into fabric • A conventional woven fabric is a textile structure formed on a loom when two sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles. The longitudinal yarns are known as the warp and the widthwise as the weft.
The Knitting • By intermeshing the loops of yarn into fabric • Normally, the knitted structure consists of one set of yarn, weft or warp, and is divided into weft knitted fabric and warp knitted fabric.
The Non-woven • By bonding fibers, filaments, yarns or combinations of these into fabric
1.2 knitting classification • knitting may be divided into two types according to the formation method • Warp knitting and weft knitting • weft knitting Warp knitting
1.2.1Weft knitting • The yarn is feed into the needle along the weft direction and knitted into fabric.
1.2.2Warp knitting • The yarn is feed into the needle along the warp direction and knitted into fabric.
1.3 Knitted structure • Knitted structure are progressively built up by converting newly fed yarn into new loops in the needle hooks, the needles then draw these new loop through the old loop.
1.3.1 Knitted loop structure • (1)Loop: The simplest unit of knitted structure. It consists of needle loop and sinker loop. The needle loop include a head and two side limbs.
(2)Knitted Stitch • The basic unit of intermeshing and usually consists of three or more intermeshed loops, the center loop having been drawn through the head of the lower loop that had in turn been intermeshed through its head by the loop which appears above it.
(3)Face loop stitch • The side of the stitch shows the new loop coming through towards the viewer as it passes over and covers the head of the old loop. Face loop tend to show the side limbs of the loops as a series of intermeshing ‘V’s.
(4)Reverse loop stitch • This is the opposite side of the stitch to the face loop side and shows the sinker loops in weft knitting and the underlaps in warp knitting.
(5)Course • A course is a predominantly horizontal row of loops produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle. • In weft knitted fabrics a course is composed of yarn from a single supply.
(6)Wale • A wale is a predominantly vertical column of needle loops produced by the same needle knitting at successive knitting cycles and thus intermeshing each new loop through the previous loop. In warp knitting a wale can be produced from the same yarn.
(7)Stitch density • (a)Wale density • The wales in a centimeter or 5 centimeters or in an inch along the course. • (b)Course density • The course in a centimeter or 5 centimeters or in an inch along the course.
(8)Stitch length • The yarn length that form a loop.
1.3.2 Knitted Fabric • (1)Single faced fabric • Single faced fabric is produced in warp and weft knitting by the needles operating as a single set. • It shows the face loops in one side and thereverse loops in another side. • (2)Double-faced fabric: • Double-faced fabric is produced in warp and weft knitting when two sets of independently controlled needles are employed. • It shows the face loops or thereverse loops in both side.
(3)Piece-goods • The fabric in a continuous uninterrupted length of constant width; • The fabric here need be made up into apparel through cutting and sewing.
(4)Garment • the fabric in a certain length and width which fit to the body-size and Sometimes with a certain shape or fully fashion; • The Garment here can be made up into a sweater through sewing but the cutting is not necessary or only a little cutting is necessary.
(5)Selvedged Fabric • A selvedged fabric is one having a ‘self-edge’ to it and can only be produced on machines whose yarn reciprocate backwards and forwards across the needle bed so that a selvedge is formed as the yarn rises up to the next course at the edge of the fabric. • (6)Tubular Fabric • Produced mainly in double –faced form or single-faced structure on circular machines.
(7)Cut Edge Fabric • By slitting open a tube of fabric produced on a circular machine. • A slit tube of fabric from a 30-inch (76cm) diameter machine will have an open width of 94 inches (2.38m) at knitting before relaxation.
1.4 Knitting Machine classification • 1.4.1 Weft Knitting Machine • (1)Circular weft knitting machine • (a)Bearded needle machine • sinker wheel knitting machine • loop wheel knitting machine
(b)Latch needle machine: • circular single jersey machine • rib machine • interlock machine • terry machine • 3-thread fleecy machine • jacquard weft knitting machine • hosiery machine
(2)Flat knitting machine (latch needle) • hand flat machine • computerized flat machine • glove machine
1.4.2 Warp Knitting Machine • (1)Raschel warp knitting machine
1.5 Machine Gauge • (1)The “machine gauge” is determined as the number of needles in one inch of needle bed i.e.2.54 cm. • (2)Machine gauge influences choice of yarn and count, and affects fabric properties such as appearance and weight.
1.6 Needle • 1.6.1 Bearded needle • There are six main parts of the bearded needle: • 1-stem • 2-head • 3-beard • 4-eye or groove • 5-shank • 6-tip
1.6.2 Latch needle • The latch needle has five main features: • 1-stem • 2-hook • 3-latch • 4-rivet • 5-butt
1.6.3 Compound needle • it include two separately parts:1-the needle • 2-the tongue (close member)
1.7.1 Knitting Action of the Bearded Needle • (1)Clearing：The old loop is cleared from the hook to the stem below the tip of the beard. • (2) Feeding: A new piece of yarn is fed onto the stem and bringed into hook by the sinker wheel. • (3)Closing: The presser presses the beard and the tip of beard enter the eye cut in stem. The new yarn therefore is enclosed by beard.
(4)Landing: The old loop moves upwards and is located on the outside of the beard as soon as the beard is closed. • (5)Knocking-over and loop length formation: As the old loop continues upwards the old loop slide off the needle and the yarn is drawn through it forming a new loop.
(1)Clearing • As the needle move upwards along the clearing cam, the old loop slide inside the hook and is cleared from the hook and latch spoon on to the stem. At this point the feeder guide plate acts as a guard to prevent the latch from closing the empty hook.
(2) Yarn feeding and latch closing • The needle starts to descent the stitch cam so that its latch is below the verge with the old loop moving under it. At this time the new yarn is fed through a hole in the feeder guide to the descending needle hook. The old loop contacts the underside of the latch causing it to close on to the hook.
(3)Closing and landing: • As the needle continues downwards the latch is forced to close under the influence of the old loop. The old loop is located on the outside of the closed latch.
(4)Knocking-over and loop length formation • As the head of the needle descends below the top of the trick the old loop slides off the needle head draws the loop length, which is approximately twice the distance the head of the needle descends below the surface of the sinker or trick-plate supporting the sinker loop.
1.8 Knitting Notations • A knitting notation is a simple, easily understood symbolic representation of a knitting repeat sequence and its resultant fabric structure which eliminates the need for time consuming and possibly confusing sketches and written descriptions.
1.8.2 Pattern grid • In a squared paper, each square represents a needle or a stitch and the different symbol in a square represents a different type stitch. For example, an ‘X’ symbol in a square can represent a face loop, an ‘O’ is a back loop. The means of a symbol can be defined by you self according to the stitch what is knitted. The ‘X’ can also is a tuck loop or a loop knitted with a certain color yarn etc.
Chapter 2 The Four Primary Base Structure of Weft Knitted Fabric
There are four primary base structures: • plain, rib, interlock and purl, from which all weft-knitted fabrics are derived. • Each is composed of a different combination of face and reverse meshed stitches knitted on a particular arrangement of needle beds. • Each primary structure may exist alone, in a modified form, with stitches other than normal cleared loops, or in combination with another primary structure in a garment length sequence.
2.1 Plain Fabric (single jersey) • 2.1.1 The StructurePlain is produced by the needles knitting as a single set, drawing the loops away from the technical back and towards the technical face side of the fabric. • It is the base structure of ladies’ hosiery, fully fashioned knitwear and single jersey fabrics. • Plain is composed entirely of face loops (or entirely of back loops). • Its basic structure unit is only one face loop (or one back loop).
2.1.2 The characteristics • (1)The appearance of the face and back differThe technical face is smooth, with the side limbs of the needle loops having the appearance of columns of Vs In the wales. • The technical back has an appearance of columns of semi-circles formed by the heads of the needle loops and the bases of the sinker loops.
